5

Taking the Waters of Warmwaterberg

It was chilly in Struisbaai on Monday and we knew our friends Tom and Meg were at The Warmwaterberg Hot Springs enjoying the warmth of the sunny Karoo days.  They were due to stop over and visit us on Wednesday.  “Let’s drive up there and surprise them,”  suggested The Earl.  “My bones could do with some warming up.”

This is the beauty of retirement.  You can just decide spur of the moment to do something and work just doesn’t get in the way.   We’ve caravanned at Warmwaterberg before but this time we decided to take a luxury bath house.

The two hour drive is super picturesque especially over the Tradouw Pass.

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We stopped in Barrydale for a bite to eat.   Diesel and Creme were closed for renovations so we tried the Country Pumpkin instead.  It was a quaint place and it was pleasant sitting in the sunshine but service was slow.  A tourist bus arrived at the same time as we did so the staff were extra busy.  I didn’t think I’d get lucky requesting making a Banting issue so we just ordered toasted egg and bacon.  The waitress thought I was a bit odd leaving the bread on the plate!IMG_7273

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The Pale Chanting Goshawk is a common bird in the area and one obligingly posed for us as we approached Warmwaterberg.

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Check in went efficiently and we were assigned Bath House 3.   Tom and Meg were in Number 4.

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The enormous bath in the room is the main feature of this accommodation.

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The accommodation is on two levels – The Earl is standing in front of the bath above.

The public pool area had three pools – two hot and one cold.  They are fed with untreated water from the artesian spring where it is 44ºC at the source.   The water is rich in iron and pleasant to drink too.

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We made friends with another couple in the pool and after a relaxing afternoon of languishing in the warm water we went to have a cup of coffee with Sandy and Shirley at their caravan.

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Bonding with new friends

Our  accommodation overlooked a beautiful valley and the mountains were beautiful in the setting sun.

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We no longer have furbabies so the feral cats that roam the estate found themselves welcome at our cottage.  They are all really pretty and healthy; clearly because the visitors feed them well.

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On of the friendly feral cats or rule the slaves that visit the spa

Peacocks also graced the grounds and came scrounging for scraps.  There are lots of shady trees and we enjoyed watching the Cape Weavers and Cape Sparrows were busy building a nest in our eaves.

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Mr Peacock trying to woo Ms Peahen

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Mrs Cape Sparrow inspecting a new nest

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I’m sure this is good for lining, my love, said Mr Cape Sparrow

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Meggy enjoying a rest in the shade of an acacia tree

We enjoyed the outdoor pools but having our own bath to luxuriate in, in the privacy of our own room was also fun

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The water is hot, soothing, relaxing and drains your energy – so is perfect just before bedtime

The two nights spent at Warmwaterberg were perfect.  We had fantastic weather and even the evenings were warm.  If ever you pass this way, do not give Warmwaterberg and Barrydale a miss.

More on Barrydale and Struisbaai to follow.

 

 

 

2

Sibling Reunion at Gariep Dam – Part 1

When my grandsons were very young we explained their relationship to me like this.   Granny:  Jay and Joshua, when Mommy and Aunty Lauren were little they had another mommy.   Her name was Colleen.   But a sad thing happened.  She was sick for some time and then she died when they were only 10 and 12 years old.

Jay:  Oh – is that her in the picture in Mommy’s room?

Granny:  Yes.  You can imagine that it was quite a sad time for Grandpa and his girls.  But then Grandpa decided that he needed a new wife and a mommy to help look after the little girls.  So he asked me if I would be come and be with them. And I said, Yes – I would so he became Lolly’s new daddy and we became a blended family.

Jay’s eyes widened and a big smile broke onto his face:   “Lucky for you, hey Gran!”
Of course I thought it was lucky for all of them but my precious little lad gave me a new perspective on the whole situation!   After all what did I get?  Two ready made little girls who brought great joy to my life and grew up to give me some adorable grandchildren.  He and his brother along with their mommy lived with Granny and Grandpa from infancy till their late teens – How lucky were we??

Not only that – I inherited a whole family on their maternal grandmother’s side who drew me unconditionally into the family and never questioned their brother-in-law’s choice of new wife and mother for their nieces.  Yes – Lucky for Gran, indeed!  Thirty- four years later I still feel very, very lucky.

Colleen had four siblings – Barbara who has just turned 70 and lives on a farm with Andrew in Kokstad, Kwa-Zulul Natal;   John who lives on a wine estate with Karly in Stellenbosch, Western Cape;   Shirley who along with Eddie has lived in many places in the country but now lives in Bloemfontein – Free State;   And the baby sister Diane who lives with Carey on a small holding at Great Brak River near George in the Western Cape.  As I mentioned we all have a good, close relationship and try to see each other as often as possible.  But being scattered  around the country makes it difficult for all the siblings to be together at the same time.  My Goodness even when siblings live in the same city it can get complicated.

John came up with the brilliant idea of all of the siblings, which included The Earl and me, to meet somewhere neutral to celebrate Barbara’s 70th birthday. This message was passed from one to the other but no actual plan was in place.  I was worried  – we’re old – some of us have health issues – the distances are vast – where would we find a venue that suited everyone.  I asked the question and everyone had a different idea.   “Who is organising it?” I asked.   “Would you?” came the reply.     “Yes!” I agreed.

The Earl and I looked at the map and decided that Gariep Dam in Free State should be it.  I sent out the email and within minutes I had a positive reply from everybody – Yes they would all come and yes the venue was fine.  My chief concern was for Eddie who has been undergoing intensive chemo and would not be strong enough to travel too far.  It would be only an hour and half for him and Shirl.   Those of us in the Western Cape would have the longest distance to travel but we would do it in two hops.  John and Karly would stop at Karoo National Park. Earl and I would pick up Diane and Carey at Great Brak.  Barbs and Andrew would also do it in two shorter hops and they were happy with that.

Well last week was when it all happened and I am happy to report that it went off extremely well.  The only dampener was that Carey could not join us.  Just before our week away was due, a fire broke out in the forest surrounding their property.  Diane and Carey helped save a neighbour’s house and were on the verge of being evacuated themselves.   By the time we arrived on Sunday afternoon, the fire was still burning and thick, black smoke hung chokingly in the atmosphere.    Carey was still very worried.  “Take Diane,” he said. ” And if things improve, I will drive up on my own.”    Just behind Carey’s work shop, where he builds motor homes, is a forest of gum trees.  If they went up in flames, his livelihood would be destroyed.  I am happy to report that the fire did not reach the farm but only because of the vigilance of the property owners and the fire fighters.

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The first view of the forest fire as we approached Rondom Mooi

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Fire Fighters at work at the edge of the pine plantation

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The wind just needed to whip this up into a frenzy

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Too close to Rondom Mooi for comfort

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Looking into the smoky distance from Rondom Mooi

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In spite of the fire, Carey entertained his grandsons who just loved the tractor/mower

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Daniel takes the wheel – Sit down Matthew!

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Watch out – I’ll run you down!

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Wow!  This is fun

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Now it’s Matthew’s turn

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Bella – My favourite of the Rondom Mooi dogs.

On the Monday morning the smoke still hung threateningly over the farm and after taking a drive to see how things were progressing, Carey decided that he definitely could not join us.  So leaving at 9:30 and stopping in George to shop for provisions and to have breakfast we continued over the Outeniqua Pass, then through the Karoo via Graaff-Reinet to the Free State – arriving at Forever Resort Gariep at 5:00 pm.

The Karoo’s semi desert landscape has a stark beauty of it’s own.  I just love the colours, the flatness and the koppies that break the eternal nothingness.
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The never-ending Karoo road

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A typical Karoo scene with the windmill in the foreground

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A Karoo Koppie

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A splash of Autumn Colours.

Everybody was already there when we arrived and it was a perfect evening. We set up our squatter camp next to John’s Mount Nelson on wheels and then everybody came down from the rondawel to braai with us.

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Our view of Gariep Dam

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John in charge

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Andrew, Barbara and The Earl

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Diane, Karly, Eddie, Shirl

The purpose of this gathering was to celebrate Barbara’s 70th which was in February but then there were 2 other birthdays too – Shirl turned 63 the day before we arrived and andrew turned 82 the day we left.  So I got Rachel from my favourite coffee shop to bake a big chocolate cake with Happy Birthday and the ages iced on top.

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Happy Birthday to Shirl, Barbara and Andrew

Travelling didn’t do the icing any good but it tasted delicious – best chocolate cake this side of the equator!

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Everybody listened politely as I waxed lyrical

We were all so excited to be together.  It was not easy for Eddie who is very weak but he made the effort and bonded with each of us.   Shirl was also recovering from foot surgery but never complained and gently supported her hubby, Andrew has had a few health issues but wouldn’t have missed this gathering either. Karly was the life and soul of the party in spite of recovering from recent surgery herself.   Wow – I love this bunch of positive people.   Nothing stops them enjoying everything that life still has to give!

To be continued ……..

4

Long Weekend Break – From Pioneer in the Semi-desert to Luxury by the Sea

It was a spur of the moment decision.  Thursday was a holiday – Human Rights Day – and Friday was an off day for schools.  Of course, it took a while for this to sink into my significant others head!  ” So,” he said on Wednesday morning suddenly realising that we should have planned earlier – “What shall we do this weekend?”  “Too late, now,” was my pessimistic reply although I am usually the optimistic one in this relationship. “Everything will be booked up!” – including our house in Struisbaai which friends were to occupy for the South League competition.

It was therefore a bit of a surprise when SO sent me a text at school – “Booked for Bizansgat.”   Bizansgat would be in the middle of The Karoo halfway between Ceres and Sutherland.    I had an appointment with a parent after school and still had to pack!   As it turned out she didn’t pitch up – for the second time – so I got home at 3 and we left half an our later.

But I needn’t have worried because my Procard holding husband  booked us into a Protea hotel in Stellenbosch for our first night – two for the price of one.  He had been trying for years to get a good deal on his Procard but was always told, “We only hold certain rooms for Procard holders and they’re all booked!’ Ja right!  Well this time they must have been tired of him complaining about it being an unfair system and that having paid all that money to have this privileged card he should be able to get any room whenever he wanted.   So yes – they must have had complaints from other Procard holders because there was, “No problem, Sir – any time is a good time Sir – we have changed the rules, Sir!”

The room was comfortable and had a lovely sitting room and kitchenette – we could have self-catered but we didn’t.     Perhaps we should have because the set menu was mediocre.

On Thursday we decided not to do breakfast at the hotel.  We still needed to shop for Bizansgat after which we went to a great little coffee shop and had muffins and cappuccino.

The Karoo was hot!  The Karoo was dusty!   The Karoo was – well semi-desert and beautiful! How can one describe the flatness, the low, scrawny scrub and unique flat topped koppies.    The colours – 50 shades of khaki  – muted, dusky greens, pinks and mauves and peaceful!  Then there are the birds.   The dusty coloured, difficult to identify, confusing Karoo birds.   We love them although it is a challenge to find them so well camouflaged and blending into the landscape.  We didn’t find too many but enjoyed those we did see.

Bizansgat is a special little hide away.  It is on a sheep farm and Petrus the shepherd was there to greet us with his dog Tes – a scrawny border collie with a very waggy tail.  She deserted her boss and took up duty guarding us for the duration of our stay.

Bizansgat's Welcome Sign

Bizansgat’s Welcome Sign

Miles of nothing surrounded us

Miles of nothing surrounded us

Tes on guard in front of our humble abode

Tes on guard in front of our humble abode

The bedroom

The bedroom

A corner of the kitchen

A corner of the kitchen

Another corner of the kitchen with crockery from the past

Another corner of the kitchen with crockery from the past

The last time we stayed in Pioneershuisie, it was winter and there had been some rain.   The stream then was flowing and the duck pond was full.   Now it was dry and we didn’t even see the usual geese that wake most visitors in the early hours of the morning.   Birdlife was pretty thin too.  We found Cape Bunting, Karoo chats – lots, Karoo long-billed lark, white-throated canaries and mouse birds.    Birds of prey were lesser kestrel, rock kestrel and Pale Chanting Goshawks.

White-throated canary

White-throated canary

Cape Bunting

Cape Bunting

Karoo Longbilled Lark

Karoo Longbilled Lark

We braaied our chops in the little skerm and afterwards washed up in the outhouse created just for this purpose.  The huisie doesn’t have a bathroom either so ablutions were done in the outhouse alongside.  There are other dormitories where groups can stay and they share these ablutions – but we were the only people there.

My Personal Chef

My Personal Chef

Die Wasklip

Die Wasklip

The Ablution Block was spotless

The Ablution Block was spotless

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One’s every comfort was catered for

Tes was intrigued by the bird calls coming from my laptop!

Tes was intrigued by the bird calls coming from my laptop!

In the relative cool of the evening we sat outdoors to watch the stars – oh wow – in a place like this they are so much brighter.      Indoors it was really hot.  We needn’t have brought our bedding as we lay atop the bed with no need even for a sheet.  BUT – the mosquitoes!   In spite of lashings of BUG-OFF – they buzzed like helicopters all night and by morning it looked like we had chicken pox!

In the morning we went for a drive and got a good eyeful of Karoo scenery, spotted a couple of steenbok and birds and then returned, deciding that although we love this place the heat was a bit much.   Earl was fighting a cold and felt he could do with some luxury – enough of outhouse showers and loo’s for this old chap!

Fifty Shades of Khaki

Fifty Shades of Khaki

The Dusty Road heading towards the gorgeous Karoo style mountains

The Dusty Road heading towards the gorgeous Karoo style mountains

Typical Karoo Scene - not the PCG on the windmill

Typical Karoo Scene – not the PCG on the windmill

Pale Chanting Goshawks are common in this neck of the woods

Pale Chanting Goshawks are common in this neck of the semi-desert

Karoo Chat

Karoo Chat

Immature Pale Chanting Goshawk

Immature Pale Chanting Goshawk

Rock Kestrel

Rock Kestrel

The competition in Struisbaai was cancelled so our friends did not go up for the weekend.  We thought, therefore, that we’d go and stay in our comfy holiday house for the rest of the weekend.  The drive through the Motagu/Bonnivale area was very picturesque.

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The Robertson Valley

The Robertson Valley

What a shock when we arrived to find that our house had in the meantime been let out by the agents!  WE WERE HOMELESS!

Plan B – A couple of old well-known Agulhas houses have been taken over  by Sanparks and we’ve been dying to spend a weekend in one of them in the new Agulhas National Park Rest Camp.  But our luck was out – fully booked!

Plan C – Arniston Hotel and Spar – another item on our bucket list – so guess where our rent money went!

Arniston is just a half hour drive from Struisbaai.   The birding on the way is usually quite good but it was getting dark so little was seen.   The hotel is Four Star so not the cheapest place to stay.   We booked a room with a ‘pool view’ as we didn’t think seeing the sea warranted the exorbitant fee.  Well, when we arrived they said, “We’ve upgraded you to a sea view room – no extra cost!”  Well – thank you very much!

The Sea View

The Sea View

Our room was fab-u-lous!   Well I am a bit of a pleb and don’t often stay in luxury hotels so fluffy white towels tend to do it for me.  And after all, I was expecting to spend this weekend like a voortrekker.

En route we had stopped at Bonnievale for lunch so had coffee and buns in our room for supper.   We were provided with filter coffee making facilities which was just so grand!

Luxury Suite

Luxury Suite

The next day it was a breakfast to die for.   Imagine smoked salmon and croissants to start your day!   That was my choice from the vast buffet on offer.   I didn’t even bother with the egg order. Chocolate chip muffin with my coffee was an added delight.

Starting off with fresh fruit before the final indulgence

Starting off with fresh fruit before the final indulgence

At 10 o’clock we booked into the Ginkgo Spa for full body massages.   We were given a hot cinnamon drink and then shown to the change rooms where we were given a locker to hang up our clothes.  We donned gowns and slippers – the latter we could keep. A comb was another free gift.   The massage was stunning and we were then shown to a rest room where we could lie on lounges and drink herbal tea or minted water until we felt like leaving.  Oh bliss!

We spent the afternoon chilling – Earl needed to get rid of his cold – so an afternoon in front of TV was called for.  I fiddled around on my computer preparing stuff for next term – it could have waited but its nice to work when there’s no pressure.

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 Dinner was divine – Butternut soup followed by a delicious salmon with creamy wine sauce and pasta for Earl and pork with tomato based sauce and pasta for me.   Our plates were too full and we couldn’t finish and dessert was forfeited too.   The chocci on the pillow was quite enough thank you.

 This morning the whole breakfast thing was repeated and then we packed and reluctantly left for Struisbaai where Earl went to work fixing the rebellious sprinkler system!

We then took the scenic route home and did a spot of bird watching.

 

Steppe Buzzard

Steppe Buzzard
Jackal Buzard

Jackal Buzzard

A Huge Flock of our National Birds

A Huge Flock of our National Birds

Spur-winged geese interspersed with a few Egyptians

Spur-winged geese interspersed with a few Egyptians

Sugar Bird

Sugar Bird

So ended an unexpected and stunning long weekend!