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Long Weekend Break – From Pioneer in the Semi-desert to Luxury by the Sea

It was a spur of the moment decision.  Thursday was a holiday – Human Rights Day – and Friday was an off day for schools.  Of course, it took a while for this to sink into my significant others head!  ” So,” he said on Wednesday morning suddenly realising that we should have planned earlier – “What shall we do this weekend?”  “Too late, now,” was my pessimistic reply although I am usually the optimistic one in this relationship. “Everything will be booked up!” – including our house in Struisbaai which friends were to occupy for the South League competition.

It was therefore a bit of a surprise when SO sent me a text at school – “Booked for Bizansgat.”   Bizansgat would be in the middle of The Karoo halfway between Ceres and Sutherland.    I had an appointment with a parent after school and still had to pack!   As it turned out she didn’t pitch up – for the second time – so I got home at 3 and we left half an our later.

But I needn’t have worried because my Procard holding husband  booked us into a Protea hotel in Stellenbosch for our first night – two for the price of one.  He had been trying for years to get a good deal on his Procard but was always told, “We only hold certain rooms for Procard holders and they’re all booked!’ Ja right!  Well this time they must have been tired of him complaining about it being an unfair system and that having paid all that money to have this privileged card he should be able to get any room whenever he wanted.   So yes – they must have had complaints from other Procard holders because there was, “No problem, Sir – any time is a good time Sir – we have changed the rules, Sir!”

The room was comfortable and had a lovely sitting room and kitchenette – we could have self-catered but we didn’t.     Perhaps we should have because the set menu was mediocre.

On Thursday we decided not to do breakfast at the hotel.  We still needed to shop for Bizansgat after which we went to a great little coffee shop and had muffins and cappuccino.

The Karoo was hot!  The Karoo was dusty!   The Karoo was – well semi-desert and beautiful! How can one describe the flatness, the low, scrawny scrub and unique flat topped koppies.    The colours – 50 shades of khaki  – muted, dusky greens, pinks and mauves and peaceful!  Then there are the birds.   The dusty coloured, difficult to identify, confusing Karoo birds.   We love them although it is a challenge to find them so well camouflaged and blending into the landscape.  We didn’t find too many but enjoyed those we did see.

Bizansgat is a special little hide away.  It is on a sheep farm and Petrus the shepherd was there to greet us with his dog Tes – a scrawny border collie with a very waggy tail.  She deserted her boss and took up duty guarding us for the duration of our stay.

Bizansgat's Welcome Sign

Bizansgat’s Welcome Sign

Miles of nothing surrounded us

Miles of nothing surrounded us

Tes on guard in front of our humble abode

Tes on guard in front of our humble abode

The bedroom

The bedroom

A corner of the kitchen

A corner of the kitchen

Another corner of the kitchen with crockery from the past

Another corner of the kitchen with crockery from the past

The last time we stayed in Pioneershuisie, it was winter and there had been some rain.   The stream then was flowing and the duck pond was full.   Now it was dry and we didn’t even see the usual geese that wake most visitors in the early hours of the morning.   Birdlife was pretty thin too.  We found Cape Bunting, Karoo chats – lots, Karoo long-billed lark, white-throated canaries and mouse birds.    Birds of prey were lesser kestrel, rock kestrel and Pale Chanting Goshawks.

White-throated canary

White-throated canary

Cape Bunting

Cape Bunting

Karoo Longbilled Lark

Karoo Longbilled Lark

We braaied our chops in the little skerm and afterwards washed up in the outhouse created just for this purpose.  The huisie doesn’t have a bathroom either so ablutions were done in the outhouse alongside.  There are other dormitories where groups can stay and they share these ablutions – but we were the only people there.

My Personal Chef

My Personal Chef

Die Wasklip

Die Wasklip

The Ablution Block was spotless

The Ablution Block was spotless

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One’s every comfort was catered for

Tes was intrigued by the bird calls coming from my laptop!

Tes was intrigued by the bird calls coming from my laptop!

In the relative cool of the evening we sat outdoors to watch the stars – oh wow – in a place like this they are so much brighter.      Indoors it was really hot.  We needn’t have brought our bedding as we lay atop the bed with no need even for a sheet.  BUT – the mosquitoes!   In spite of lashings of BUG-OFF – they buzzed like helicopters all night and by morning it looked like we had chicken pox!

In the morning we went for a drive and got a good eyeful of Karoo scenery, spotted a couple of steenbok and birds and then returned, deciding that although we love this place the heat was a bit much.   Earl was fighting a cold and felt he could do with some luxury – enough of outhouse showers and loo’s for this old chap!

Fifty Shades of Khaki

Fifty Shades of Khaki

The Dusty Road heading towards the gorgeous Karoo style mountains

The Dusty Road heading towards the gorgeous Karoo style mountains

Typical Karoo Scene - not the PCG on the windmill

Typical Karoo Scene – not the PCG on the windmill

Pale Chanting Goshawks are common in this neck of the woods

Pale Chanting Goshawks are common in this neck of the semi-desert

Karoo Chat

Karoo Chat

Immature Pale Chanting Goshawk

Immature Pale Chanting Goshawk

Rock Kestrel

Rock Kestrel

The competition in Struisbaai was cancelled so our friends did not go up for the weekend.  We thought, therefore, that we’d go and stay in our comfy holiday house for the rest of the weekend.  The drive through the Motagu/Bonnivale area was very picturesque.

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The Robertson Valley

The Robertson Valley

What a shock when we arrived to find that our house had in the meantime been let out by the agents!  WE WERE HOMELESS!

Plan B – A couple of old well-known Agulhas houses have been taken over  by Sanparks and we’ve been dying to spend a weekend in one of them in the new Agulhas National Park Rest Camp.  But our luck was out – fully booked!

Plan C – Arniston Hotel and Spar – another item on our bucket list – so guess where our rent money went!

Arniston is just a half hour drive from Struisbaai.   The birding on the way is usually quite good but it was getting dark so little was seen.   The hotel is Four Star so not the cheapest place to stay.   We booked a room with a ‘pool view’ as we didn’t think seeing the sea warranted the exorbitant fee.  Well, when we arrived they said, “We’ve upgraded you to a sea view room – no extra cost!”  Well – thank you very much!

The Sea View

The Sea View

Our room was fab-u-lous!   Well I am a bit of a pleb and don’t often stay in luxury hotels so fluffy white towels tend to do it for me.  And after all, I was expecting to spend this weekend like a voortrekker.

En route we had stopped at Bonnievale for lunch so had coffee and buns in our room for supper.   We were provided with filter coffee making facilities which was just so grand!

Luxury Suite

Luxury Suite

The next day it was a breakfast to die for.   Imagine smoked salmon and croissants to start your day!   That was my choice from the vast buffet on offer.   I didn’t even bother with the egg order. Chocolate chip muffin with my coffee was an added delight.

Starting off with fresh fruit before the final indulgence

Starting off with fresh fruit before the final indulgence

At 10 o’clock we booked into the Ginkgo Spa for full body massages.   We were given a hot cinnamon drink and then shown to the change rooms where we were given a locker to hang up our clothes.  We donned gowns and slippers – the latter we could keep. A comb was another free gift.   The massage was stunning and we were then shown to a rest room where we could lie on lounges and drink herbal tea or minted water until we felt like leaving.  Oh bliss!

We spent the afternoon chilling – Earl needed to get rid of his cold – so an afternoon in front of TV was called for.  I fiddled around on my computer preparing stuff for next term – it could have waited but its nice to work when there’s no pressure.

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 Dinner was divine – Butternut soup followed by a delicious salmon with creamy wine sauce and pasta for Earl and pork with tomato based sauce and pasta for me.   Our plates were too full and we couldn’t finish and dessert was forfeited too.   The chocci on the pillow was quite enough thank you.

 This morning the whole breakfast thing was repeated and then we packed and reluctantly left for Struisbaai where Earl went to work fixing the rebellious sprinkler system!

We then took the scenic route home and did a spot of bird watching.

 

Steppe Buzzard

Steppe Buzzard
Jackal Buzard

Jackal Buzzard

A Huge Flock of our National Birds

A Huge Flock of our National Birds

Spur-winged geese interspersed with a few Egyptians

Spur-winged geese interspersed with a few Egyptians

Sugar Bird

Sugar Bird

So ended an unexpected and stunning long weekend!

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Struisbaai Holiday Day 12 – De Hoop Delight and Disaster

The wind was up this morning and so we decided a day trip to somewhere else was called for.   A bit of bird and game watching might be a good experience for our grandchildren and would ensure that they didn’t get too much sun.  So the early morning run was shelved and we had an ‘Early’ breakfast then Lauren, Earl the kids and I set off at about 8.  Alan, Lisa and Laurie decided to give the nature thing a miss.

Jay was the most enthusiastic of all the kids and on route keenly spotted the birds of prey.  Plenty of yellow-billed kites were hawking and steppe and jackal buzzards were atop of telephone poles.  We also saw flocks of our national bird – the blue crane.

Flock of Blue Crane

Flock of Blue Crane

We also spotted a special bird that we don’t often see in The Western Cape

Namaqua Dove - Male

Namaqua Dove – Male

Just before entering the reserve we saw baboons.  Now we are used the cheeky Cape Point clan who have no fear of humans.  They are pretty precocious in Kruger too.  But these would not hang around for a chat at all.  We managed to get some bum shots.

Bye bye baboons

Bye bye baboons

We have all four children on our Wild Card so only had to fork out a R40 Conservation fee for Lauren.  The Wild Card is well worth having.  We have one for all clusters and we can get into any South African National Park free.  The cost of the card is R745 per year for a couple and up to five children.  (For more information on The Wild Card – http://www.wildcard.co.za/faq.htm?action=view-list&catid=512 )

Once in the park the kids were thrilled to see zebra, ostrich and bontebok.

Bontebok and Baby

Bontebok and Baby

Zebra Family

Zebra Family

We stopped at the restaurant to go to the loo and then set off to Koppie Alleen where we planned to swim and play on the dunes.  But on the way a mini disaster struck.  The battery light came on and a message on the dashboard informed us that we should get the car to a workshop for alternator repairs.  Earl and the boys got up to look under the bonnet – but couldn’t find where the alternator was hidden – Modern Cars!

Where's the alternator, Grandpa?

Where’s the alternator, Grandpa?

Earl thought discretion was the better part of valour. We turned around and went back to Struisbaai – rather be stranded closer to home than in the middle of a nature reserve.  So unfortunately we did not see Koppie Alleen today but if any reader would like to see what we did on a previous trip go to https://puppy1952.wordpress.com/2011/04/24/fishing-adventure-at-the-southern-tip-of-africa-day-3

We snacked on left over Christamas dinner, the kids amused themselves and the adults read, did crosswords, blogged and napped.  Then we all went for a walk before supper.

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Struisbaai Day 6 – Elim and Cyclists

That blister on my foot really made me feel precious this morning so I decided to have a rest day.   I just couldn’t face putting on takkies and running through burn.  We headed for the beach at 8 and enjoyed a delicious swim and surf with our body boards.  It was the start of a glorious day.  On our way back to the house Earl caught sight of this cute little crowned lapwing chick.  It’s parents did their best to attract our attention away from him to them but we only wanted to take his portrait.

Leave my chick alone please

Leave my chick alone please

Aren't I cute

Aren’t I cute

We had an ”Early” breakfast of scrambled eggs – not my my normal one egg scramble with a swallow of juice before dashing off to school – no this was gourmet with bits of bacon, mushroom, tomato and ‘stinky’ cheese thrown in – to die for doll.   Then we went to Agulhas to drop off our laundry.

On our return from the laundry we saw signs saying ‘Mark’ with arrows pointing you in the right direction.  Lollz and I had seen them on the weekend and she’d said, “Who’s Mark?”   Ha ha – very funny – Mark is Afrikaans for Market!  We were tempted but didn’t get round to following the arrows but today Earl and I decided to check it out.  We found a beautifully laid out market in the Diensentrum and all sorts of interesting things were on offer.  Earl bought me a necklace and we gathered some delicacies like mixed nuts and seeds, nougat, biltong etc.  Then we stopped off at the regular market on the field in front of the shopping centre and got some mielies.

009 Mark

Lovely Stuff

010 Mark

A place to do your Christmas Shopping

012 Struis Market

Every South African needs this stuff

013 Mielies

Mielies going cheap

The day stretched out ahead of us and we decided to take a slow trip via Napier to Elim so that we could do a spot of bird watching.  I was also keen on seeing the museum at Elim and finding out a bit more of the history of this little mission town.

A Jackal Buzzard posed for us

A Jackal Buzzard posed for us

A shy steenbok stopped to say hi

A shy steenbok stopped to say hi

The town of Elim nestled in a water rich valley

The town of Elim nestled in a water rich valley

When we entered the village I was intrigued by an old shop.  A group of cyclists were outside having stopped to get a drink and we asked if it would be okay to photograph them – they happily obliged.

The Cafe

The Cyclists

We took a photograph of a particularly attractive house with a pretty front garden.

Typical Elim House

Typical Elim House

We then went to the information centre and were taken on a brief tour of the museum.  The curator expounded on the history of the town all of which was quite fascinating and informative.  ‘When I got home I googled Elim which gave the same information quite concisely so I’ve quoted it below.

022 Museum

Stuff used in the olden day shops

023 Museum

An old kitchen which we were told has not changed much in the present day homes

025 Museum

Earl being quite old remembers using a water sharpener like this

026 Museum

He also remembers his grandparents having an ice box like this.

Elim is a village on the Agulhas Plain in the Western Cape of South Africa. It was established in 1824 by German missionaries as a Moravian mission station. When selecting the location, the missionaries placed a high priority on the proximity of water and on terrain that was suitable for planting vines so that wine for communion could be produced. As well as preaching the Gospel, the missionaries taught the villagers a variety of trades and skills. Elim’s thatchers continue to be renowned for their craftsmanship.

The village is picturesque and has changed little over the years. It is filled with whitewashed cottagesfruit trees and fynbos. All the roads in the village lead to the thatch roofed church. The community, still mainly Moravian, consists of farmers, farm workers and artisans.

Elim is becoming known for the export of fynbos, and as an emerging area in the production of wine.

After our visit to the museum we found the six young cyclists sitting on the lawn near the coffee shop having a watermelon wallow.   I just had to chat to them.   They had begun their cycle from Somerset West  on Saturday and were heading for Stilbaai where one of the young men’s parents are holidaying.   Each day is only roughly planned and sometimes they battle to find a place to camp.  They told us they were heading for Struisbaai where they intended spending the night at the Caravan Park.  They’d already ridden from Gansbaai and they looked exhausted!  They were really charming young people so I thought – no – these guys need a break.  Änd so we invited them to spend the night in our bunk room!  They were over the moon and accepted with alacrity.

A refreshing water melon wallow

A refreshing water melon wallow

On our way home we had more luck with bird watching.

031 Spoonbill

A Spoonbill fished in ditch next to the dirt road

032 White-faced ducks

Not often that we see white-faced ducks

033 Bokmakierie

Bokmakierie was not very obliging

We also came across a shepherd herding sheep with his dog034 Sheep

Back home we prepared for our guests.  Earl decided to braai one of the yellow-tail caught yesterday.  I made the salads and vegetables and got the table ready, checked the beds and bathroom were okay and at 6:30 ish our weary travellers arrived

035 Cyclists 036 Total of 94kmAfter a coke I took them down to the beach for a swim

037 After a swim

The vet, viets, vriende

038 Showerin

Katie and Marianda rinsing off the salt water

They were delighted with our super long beach with its white sand and warm sea.

Chatting to them later we discovered that Francois and Marianda were married. The girls and one of the guys had never done a long cycle in their lives before.  Tim and Katie were English speaking and that the six had met at university.   Marianda is studying teaching, Katie is about to launch her career as a dietician, one of the boys is going on to do honours in marketing, Francois is already working and I can’t quite remember the other details!  Their names are Marianda, Francois, Katie, Tim, Nico and Riaan.   I will tell you more tomorrow.

What I can tell you is that they are all delightful young people.  Today they cycled a total of 94km.  They were stiff and sore but full of the joy of what they had done.   The boys were super impressed that the girls kept up so well and told them so.   They couldn’t thank us enough for treating them to braaied yellowtail, vegetables, sweet potatoes and salad.  Dessert was very simple – canned fruit and ice cream but they thought is was a fantastic treat. After dinner they insisted on washing up.  Their parents can be very proud of them – for having this adventure during their vacation and for being being superbly polite and thoroughly pleasant young people.

Tomorrow they are going to spend the day with us.  More on that later!

To be continued.

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Struisbaai Holiday Day 4 Breakfast, Bredasdorp and Boogy Boarding

This morning we woke up to just the two of us – a rare thing in our marriage having got together after we’d both had children and then blended our two families.  Of course that in itself was a wonderful thing – but when we have alone time we really appreciate it. Our first thought of what to do – was get to the beach before the crowds and have a swim so 7:30 found us wallowing in the waves and giggling like little kids.  Earl seldom swims – he fishes – so it was specially nice to enjoy the sea with him in this way.  I did not run as the tide was too high and my legs were still aching from yesterday’s soft sand jog!   The air was a tad chilly because the wind was blowing but the sea was deliciously warm and we did not want to get out!  The waves were pumping and we regretted not having boogy boards to surf.     When we were too exhausted from jumping the waves – it was quite rough today – we reluctantly dragged ourselves out and went home to shower. Today was the day we’d earmarked for Bredasdorp shopping and we wanted to make an early start – who wants to be in town when you could be chilling in Struisbaai!

We decided to have breakfast there and were quite happy with what the Flame Grill had to offer.  Then it was the serious business of shopping.  We needed the following and eventually managed to get it all.

  • Christmas Tree
  • Christmas Decorations
  • Roast for Christmas Day
  • Christmas Pudding
  • Various items from a hardware store
  • Make-up for me
  • Skipping rope for me (I promised Steve I would train)
  • Boogy Boards – we’re stupid enough to think we’re still young enough for this – read on!

I found tree that I thought would suit at Checkers – just the right size and it included a transformer and lights.  I was holding the box in my hand and contemplating the price when a woman came up to me and said, “I bought one of those last year and the tree started smoking and melting!” I decided that Providence had sent her and decided not to take that particular tree!   Instead I got a cheaper one without fancy gadgets and bought some pretty baubles to decorate it.  I didn’t want a tree (not much space) but thought the kids would never forgive me if I didn’t at least have a little one!

On our way to and from Bredasdorp we were fascinated to see a number of yellow-billed flying around.  There were also a number of steppe and jackal buzzards perched on telephone poles.   (Have to mention birds at least once in a holiday report)

Here is a regular visitor to our garden – specially when the sprinkler is on.

Female Cape Sugarbird on our lawn

Female Cape Sugarbird on our lawn

Female Cape Sugarbird on the telephone wire

Female Cape Sugarbird on the telephone wire

Struisbaai in the holidays has a market on a public open space next to the main road.   On our return from Bredasdorp we stopped to see what we could find and bought mielies (corn on the cob) and spanspek (cantaloupe).    We had the mielies for lunch – delicious.  Still to try the spanspek .

After lunch Earl did all the chores he needed to do – light on the Milkwood tree, putting up more hooks and sorting fishing tackle.  Clive dropped in and they organised fishing for tomorrow.

I cleaned house and set up the Christmas tree.

My promise to Steve had to be kept – I did not run this morning so  conscious was pricking.   I opened up my kettle bell boxes – and oh no – one of them was the wrong weight!   I emailed and complained (politely) and had an immediate cell phone reply – huge apologies and yes my daughter could collect the correct one on her way up to Struis on Sunday and I could return the wrong one in January.  Still I had one that was usable so I did a little circuit routine that Steve, I think would approve of.  My usual warm up and then Skipping with my new fancy and very expensive rope, clean and press with the 6kg kettle bell, step ups on my stoep steps, swings with the 6kg kettle bell, and finishing with burpies.  Then stretches to cool down.  Tomorrow I intend including a run – on the beach or the road depending on whether I can catch the low tide or not!

Earl, while I was struggling through my routine on my own had gone to down to the harbour with Clive.   When he got back we went to the beach – and took the new boogy boards!   We were like kids at Christmas.  The tide was high, the wind was blowing and the waves were hectic!   But boy did we have fun — we caught the waves, were dunked several times and were totally exhausted when we finally decided enough was enough!  Its so hard to remember that we are in our sixties – we can’t do these kid things at the same rate any more – but we’d rather die than not at least try!

Me after a successful surf to the beach

Me after a successful surf to the beach

Oh boy that was fun

Oh boy that was fun

Me pretending to be a cool surfer girl!

Me pretending to be a cool surfer girl!