It is still raining when we wake.  We decide not to break camp but to wait and see if the new occupants would mind swapping with us.   We go out for a morning drive and are in awe of all the water that is about. We have to go into 4WD range to get through the river on the road.

We see lion tracks and follow them till they disappear over the ridge.  At Kousant we find gemsbok drinking at a much bigger waterhole than yesterday!   There are game about but the animals won’t need to come to the drinking holes now that there is water aplenty lying around.  We spot bat-eared foxes and suspect they have a den near Polentswa waterhole.  They do not come close enough for good photographs.  As we are racing back to Polentswa waterhole I call to Earl to stop – there is an African Jacana on the side of the road.  He reverses but it flies off.  I play the call on my phone and we see him fly up, over the car and away.  No photograph!  What is a jacana doing in the desert!

At Polentswa waterhole we find the mother owl and hear the juvenile calling.  We trace the call to another on the exit road, take a photo and then return to the waterhole.  The mother is at the edge of the pond and we watch her take a bath and a drink.  It is the highlight of our day.

We return to camp and Jim calls me to see a squacco heron in the tree behind the caravan – another strange find in the desert!

Maureen and I wash up last night’s dishes and then she cooks us bacon and eggs for breakfast.   We manage to eat our meal under the A-frame but soon the rain returns and we scurry for our caravans.   We have a drink of Oxo at midday and then it really comes down in buckets.  This is set in for the day or longer. Earl and I are sitting in the car listening to music while he reads the Land Rover Manual and I type up the diary and sort out photographs.   We are collecting rain water that drips from the tarpaulin into buckets and basins!

When the rain stops we go and check how the roads look after the storm.  There is water everywhere and it is unlikely that we will see animals at the waterholes!  We go for a short drive but see only fallen trees and flooded roads.

Back at camp we see that some people have taken up occupancy of Site 1.  Jim goes to speak to them. They say they are supposed to be on Site 3. But Daan and Jeanette are booked there. So there has been a major mix up as to where people should be.  We are safe on Site 2 for now!

While we are sitting waiting for  Daan and Jeanette come for drinks two rabbits make an appearance.

It is cold and Maureen makes gluwine which is delicious.

For supper I cook Camp Risotto which included rice, lentils, butter beans, onion, garlic, canned mushrooms and canned peas!

We are up early and it looks like we will be having a fine day.   First up we find an owl in the tree next to the waterhole.   I think it must be a juvenile as it letting out a high pitched scream as if calling for Mom.

We hope the lions from last night make an appearance but no luck.  We watch the lanner trying to catch a breakfast of doves but he has no luck either.

After a while we decide to make our way North stopping first at the broken waterhole.  It is sad to see the animals come down in anticipation of a drink and leave again, thirsty.

There is nothing to see at Kannaguass either so we continue towards Union’s End.   We find the Ludwig’s Bustard but once again too far away to get good photographs.

We stop at Lyjersdraai picnic site for a loo break and then continue stopping when we spot a PGC on a kill.   We manage to get good pics of him with his delicious snake.

We spend the rest of the afternoon in camp.  It is very hot and even the birds and mice have gone to ground. We do find a yellow-bellied eromomela in the tree.  After a nap we go out again at 5.  The lions do not appear.

We invite Jeanette and Daan from Camp Site 3 to join us for a braai and have a lovely evening with them.   Clouds have built up and there is thunder and lightning but the evening is still warm to 9:15 when a wind swirls up and the temperature drops. We decide it is best to get into our caravans as soon as possible and then the heavens open.  We are tucked up warmly while we listen to the thunder and the pelting rain!  Oh dear and we’re supposed to break camp and move to site 1 tomorrow.

We woke to the sound of rain which is so needed here at this time of year. We lie in a little longer as we are not showering till after our morning drive.
We have to abide by park opening and closing times even though we are in an unfenced camp. It is scary wondering around the campsite in the dark and we have to shine the torch all around to ensure there are no predators lying in wait.
We leave at 6:30 just as it is getting light and make our short way to the water hole.  No luck there so we head south to see what we can find. Just before Kousant Waterhole we find a lioness on the road hiding next to a tree. She is watching a small herd of wildebeest.

A Lioness hides and watches a small herd of Wildebeest

She keeps looking up the road, we thing, hoping her pride will hurry and join her in a hunt. She goes into stalk mode but the herd are too far away and in the open so she does not have the element of surprise. Soon she gives up. Another car stops to observe then moves on a little further then stops. We move on to see whether they have found the rest of the pride. Yes there is another lioness.

We follow her to the KOUSANT waterhole. She is quite unconcerned about us and we watch her mark her territory and then go down to the waterhole to drink.

Thirsty Lioness

She also makes some roaring sounds. We then follow her back to the road and she heads north toward her friend.  A little way on we see the first lioness making her way south. They ignore each other but number one turns and follows number 2 north. We stay with them for ages. They cross the road and continue walking steadily on the river plane and then one suddenly decides she I stored and flops down for a rest.

Number 2 continues and then she too flops down for a few minutes. Then they continue and cross the road again and walk through the bush. We follow I till the move out of sight.
We stop off at camp for a few minutes then go to Lijersdraai picnic site for breakfast. There is a flush loo there which I gratefully make use of.  We take photos of rufous vented tilt babbler.

Next we visit the Lijersdraai  waterhole but the windmill is broken. We wait there for Jim and Maureen but they have clearly been delayed. Mike and Harriet stop by and tell us that they’ve seen lion at Kannaguass further north. Then we meet up with Jeff and Jackie who are on their way back from Gharagab. They are on their way to Lijersdraai Picnic site so we ask them to tell Jim and Maureen that we are going onto Kannaguass. En route we find some bateared fox but they are too far for good photographs. At the waterhole we only fine sandgrouse. J & M soon join us and tell us to look out for Ludwig bustard which we do find but also too distant for a photograph. However, we see him well with our binoculars.

Back at camp we have salad sandwiches for lunch then have an afternoon nap. We are out again at half past 4. We check Kousant waterhole and then sit at Polentswa and wait.  We have to be back at camp by 7. At 6:15 a single wildebeest starts to run then stops and looks onto the ridge.  We see nothing but suddenly a mighty roar fills the air. Still no visual. Mike and Harriet arrive and tell us they can see 2 males behind the trees on the skyline.  I notice Daan and Jeanette training binos in the other direction then Earl yells look the female and she is almost upon us!

M is still looking beyond her and we try to attract her attention to tell her to look closer when obviously she appears hugely in her binos and she lowered them in fright. Soon the second female appears and the two walk right past the waterhole towards where the roar came from. Then we spot the males. There are 3 altogether. The light is fading fast but. We watch them and the males finally appear so that we get good vies of them. At 6:55 we all head back to camp.
Mike and Harriet join us for supper. We hear the lions roar but none come calling.  We are in bed by9:45

I am awake before the alarm this morning and up by 5 am.  The showers are cold again and as this morning is a little chillier than yesterday I am somewhat pissed off!  But one should not complain as the cooler morning is a relief after the extreme heat we have been experiencing  The only way to keep cool is to languish in the pool in the afternoons and then to wrap a soaking wet sarong around oneself.

We decide to go South today and stop off at Casper se Draai.  FIrst up is a little steenbok

There is not too much happening but we enjoy watching the birds at the waterhole.  A shikra and a Gabar make an appearance.  There is also a tawny, first in the tree and then walking through the scrub.   At a distance we see a black bird. Jim thinks it might be a black sparrow hawk but I am sure it is a melanistic Gabar.  After checking the book we both concur.  It’s just a pity we can’t get good photographs as we are facing the rising sun.  We enjoy watching the wildebeest and gemsbok compete for watering rights and a couple of female kudu make a brief appearance but decide not to risk a drink with the other buck.

A young pale chanting goshawk

Lots of birds trying to escape the raptors

Gabar Goshawk

Tawny on the ground

Female Kudu

On our way back to Nossob we find some interesting birds

Crimson-breasted shrike

Kalahari Scrub-robin

A lovely Martial Eagle

Plentiful in the park are the Red Hartebeest

I love the babies

We decide to go North again to see what we can find.  We become separated from Maureen and Jim who took a longer route back to Nossob.  When they get there Jim is not keen to take the north road so stays in camp while Maureen comes in search of us.  Meanwhile I am convinced they’ve found the ultimate sighting while Earl and I languish at Kang waterhole watching very little!  When Maureen arrives Earl suggests I get into her car while he returns to camp to fix the solar panel.  M and I enjoy a couple of hours of female bonding but do not see very much in the way of game!

Back at camp we have lunch, have a swim and a nap before going out again at 4:30.   Earl and I are ahead this time and when we reach Cubitje Quap water hole we find three Bateleurs – Male, Female and juvenile.   The female flies away but we get good photos of the male and juvenile.

Juvenile Bateleur

Dad Bateleur

Dad Looking good

Dad and Junior

Jim and Maureen arrive soon after they have all flow away.  We carry on to Kwang and find a lappet-faced vulture and more bateleurs at the waterhole.  We also observe the springbuck butting heads and there are gemsbok drinking and grazing too.  A lanner entertains us by swooping down for a drink and we manage to get good photographs.  We stay a while observing the activity and hoping for lion but today proves to be the quietest sighting wise this trip.

Earl and I do a braai for supper.  We enjoy Earl’s famous chicken wing starter when the wind gets up to gale force and we have to run around rescuing things blowing about. We manage to finish braaing but we have to move the table to a more sheltered spot and we all get a little more crunch in our food than we bargained for.  Earl and I have to take our sidewall down as it might rip in the wind.  We decide to leave the washing up till tomorrow and Maureen stacks everything into a tub and hides it in her caravan.  We stow everything we can inside the caravans and then retire to bed, using the porta potty for the first time as we don’t want to head to the ablutions in the storm.  We climb into bed and listen to wind how while the caravan rock dangerously.  We hope it is strong enough to withstand the blast and the pelting rain.  It doesn’t last long and before long we are asleep.  I wake in the night to the sound of rain but it is not enough to make a dent in the drought they are experiencing in the Kgalagadi right now.  It is supposed to be the rainy season but not enough has fallen and it is very dry and the animals in this area are pretty scarce having migrated to greener climes.

As I am getting ready to leave a neighbouring camper comes to chat.  She tells me that she saw the African Wild Cat walking past our campsite and going up onto the roof of the ablution block.  This wild cat was rescued by Peter and Colleen who I met at the pool yesterday.  They were camping here last year and found this abandoned kitten on the road. Peter caught him and brought him back to the camp where the ranger reared him and then released him back into the wild.  But he still comes back and preys on the birds in the camp!

I am second in the queue but as one has to open and close the gate oneself several campers race to the gate while their spouses get the exit permits.  This means that we have to wait for them to get their permits before we can leave!  We still manage to get out pretty smartly and take the north-bound road.

Jim and Maureen are ahead so when they slow up we know there is something interesting.  Earl says – it’s a skunk thing – not able to get the right word out of his mouth.  It’s a honey badger and he is in the company of a Pale Chanting Goshawk and jackal.  The HB and PCG have a symbiotic relationship and are often seen together although this is the first time for us.   The HB digs in the ground for insects and grubs and those that he disturbs are grabbed by the PCG.  It is fascinating to watch and the highlight of our day.

The badger is hunting insects and digging up eatable creatures

The PCG and the Jackal know that can get a free meal if they stick close to him

What a beautiful jackal I am

We are a fraction too late to find lions on the road but manage to watch them walking through the bush – I don’t even try to take a photograph.

At the turn off to Kousant water hole Jim and Maureen have a cursory glance to see if there is anything there and nearly drive off when a car indicates that they should go there.  Lucky for us as we find 2 jackals and a stunning brown hyena.

Brownies are not as common as spotted and are somewhat prettier

We stop at Polentswa Waterhole and have breakfast in the car. There are hundreds of doves and a herd of wildebeest trying to get a drink.  It seems to us that there is no water in the waterhole.  We wonder whether the solar powered pump is working as it is quite overcast.   We spend an hour there and watch the lanners trying to catch the doves – a fascinating spectacle.  The birds all drink at the same time and the whoosh off together and scatter then repeat the whole process.  This confuses the lanners and other birds of prey – there is definitely safety in numbers.

The dove stays close to the Lanner where he can see him

We find out later back at camp that the water did eventually pump in and other folk saw lions there after we’d left.

Always nice to see is the Kori Bustard

Jim and Maureen stop when they see a chap struggling to change a tyre.  He says he doesn’t need help but Earl decides to stay with him anyway.  It is hot and I stand in the shade of a tree with his wife.   We keep a sharp eye out for dangerous animals but to our disappointment none arrive.  I comment – oh such a pity to get a puncture in the middle of the bush.  Oh – she says – we’ve been travelling through the Central Kalahari for week and nothing has gone wrong – we get more punctures on the road to our holiday cottage in Infanta.   This of course gets me to saying – I know people with a house in Infanta – Stuart and Janet – Well – they’re their opposite neighbours!   I will tell Janet that I met Alan Crocker and his wife whose name now escapes me!

No fun getting a puncture in the middle of a game reserve

Jim turns back to see if we’re all okay but the job is done by then and we carry on.  The next exciting sighting is two Bateleurs at the Cubitje Quap Water Hole.   The male flies off and we see another with him in the sky – probably their juvenile.  When he comes back the female spreads her wings showing all the white beneath and then she flies off and he takes a drink at the waterhole.

Back at camp the Gibsons offer us rare beef sandwiches for lunch which we gratefully accept.  Earl struggles to sort out the solar panel problems for the rest of the afternoon and Jim tries to give non-expert aid.   It turns out that it is too hot!  It stops functioning when the temperature reaches 25!  How ridiculous is that in Africa!

Maureen and I do some chores and then go for a swim. There are a few other people there. A gentleman turns to me and says – Aren’t you a Pnematicatos?  Yes, I reply, Who are you?  Nicholas Fairly.  Well I never – he is a close school friend of my brother Nicholas whom I knew so well at the time.   Of course when I had a good look at him I don’t know how I didn’t realise it sooner.  You’re still looking good, he tells me.  What a charmer and how lovely to meet up with him here in KTP.

Dinner tonight – Maureen treated us to Tai Fish Curry which was to die for. It was full of prawns and calamari and lovely seafood.  What gourmet food we eat here in the middle of the Kalahari Desert!

It is hot when we go to bed and I sleep on top of the comforter but need to get under as the night cools down.

Today is our last day at Mata Mata.   We go for a very short drive and return at lunchtime.

Maureen is first in the queue and I am second as Des is packing to leave today.   We dash off to get to those waterholes early and are well rewarded when we come upon a lioness at Dalkeith.   We spend a good few minutes watching her drink and then she goes to  a tree to mark her territory before loping off.  We follow her until she disappears over the ridge.

There are giraffe, a secretary bird and a jackal at 13^th Waterhole and we get some photographs.

Later we find a Martial Eagle and shortly after that a young couple stop us to point out a PCG on the ridge – There’s also a cobra next to him  they tell us.  We watch and see the snake catch a lizard but he is too big for the PCG to handle.   Jim and Maureen see the snake come rapidly down the slope and try to warn us that it is trying to get onto our tyres.  Earl moves just in time and then it makes its way toward their car but they too move off rapidly.

We need to pack up camp so return and cook breakfast in camp.