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Visiting the Kids in Kokstad – Wattle Crane Cottage

Monday 27 April – Week 2 in Kokstad

It has been another pleasant week in Rural KwaZulu Natal. What a pleasure it was to suddenly come upon a flock of crowned cranes landing and grazing in a wheat field near Lauren’s place.

Crowned crane landing on a hay bale

Crowned crane landing on a hay bale

IMG_1404We attended Glynis’s birthday tea on Thursday.  In the evening we enjoyed a delicious ‘Banting’ dinner at Nicoline’s.  Lauren and Allan ‘bant’ most of the time too and they are all looking fabulous.  Nicoline lent me her book and said – Just read it this weekend and see what you think.

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Tucking into Nicolines delicious HFLC food

The weather was beautiful on Friday. Nicoline dropped her two kids, Scott and Robyn off and lent Lauren and Alan her 4×4 bakkie.   With both cars packed to the hilt we set off at about 3:00 pm and arrived at Wattle Crane Cottage an hour later.  Shannon and Robyn travelled with us and did an excellent job of taking turns to open and close the gates.  They appreciated the sparkles they received in payment for the task.

Wattle Crane Cottage is on the Raw’s farm and is next to a huge dam.  The drive up is picturesque as it can only be in the mountains of East Griqualand!

Calves hoping for a treat

Calves hoping for a treat

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Beauty everywhere

As soon as the unpacking was done Allan and Earl went straight to ‘sea’ in the boat.  Allan caught two lovely trout.

For supper I cooked my very own version of bobotie as we forgot to pack some of the essential ingredients like sultanas and other dried fruit!   So I just threw in a can of tomato and onion and sliced in some fresh bananas.  I hoped the custard topping would not clash with the tomato and to my relief everybody enjoyed it.  The rice was also forgotten so I served it with mashed sweet potato which went down a treat.

Where there are dams there will be frogs.  On Friday night we hardly slept as the glorious amphibian choir entertained us till the early hours of the morning.  Allan was up early and took Scott and Simon out on the boat.  They returned triumphant each proud catchers of a trout each!

Earl cooked us a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, banana and two cheeses and as I had begun to read the Tim Noakes book I’d already decided that Banting might not be a bad idea so I skipped the toast.  Lauren and Allan usually cut out carbohydrates but include them in their diet when on holiday and some weekends.  I am embracing the new regime with the fanaticism of a new convert! (Although it goes totally against my previous low fat convictions I am always one to try something new and Tim makes a lot of sense.)

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Robyn and Simon with his lovely trout

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The girls on the lake

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The boys and the boat

After breakfast Earl went fishing on his own, Allan went back to Kokstad to play Golf, the boys fished from the jetty and the girls rowed on the dam in the canoe.   Lauren and I cleaned up and then relaxed with our books.

I did go for a long walk before lunch though.  How divine to ramble in such gorgeous surrounding your only company being the cows on the mountainside, the beautiful, crickets, bugs and butterflies and the variety of birds that refused to pose for photographs!

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Red-collared widowbird in transitional plumage

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Ant-eating chat and lizard on a rock

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Another beautiful dam on the farm

The results of the fishing were gratifying – Simon caught two from the jetty!  Earl got a few nibbles and caught and released one or two.

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Allan returned from Golf and then went for a cast with Earl and was triumphant with another catch!

We had a lovely braai in the evening which was very Banting friendly!

On Sunday Allan took the boys fishing – there were more catches – Shannon tucked into bed with us and wouldn’t let her grandfather up.   She has become just as much as a tease as he is!

Finally he managed to escape and went off in the boat to get his last catch.  The packing up did not take long and after lunch we were on our way down again.  Lauren had to ride on Monday and the girls had a music practice to attend so another day was not possible.  At lunchtime we went to the neighbours for a braai.  Simon got involved with the cooking of the excellent meat.

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Shannon got a chance to practise her music as she doesn’t have a piano at home.

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Today is Freedom Day in South Africa. We commemorate the first ever democratic voting in South Africa.   What a long way we have come since 1994.

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Visiting the Kids in Kokstad – The First Week

Thursday 16 April 2015 Mountain Zebra to Kokstad

It is freeing when we wake up – 3 degrees C.   We get up quickly and pack, take the keys back to reception, get our exit papers and leave the park.  Earl is suffering from Gout again and we have no medication so we stop in Queenstown, find a pharmacist who gives us a special combination of tablets to be taken every two hours.  Fortunately this helps.  We then go to Wimpy for breakfast. The parking attendant begs us to bring him a hot coffee when we return!   There is a power outage but we manage to enjoy an omelette and coffee and remember to take the car guard his order too.  He is over the moon with gratefulness.

The rest of the trip to Kokstad is reasonably uneventful for Transkei and KZN roads.   We play dodge the pothole for an hour or so and then the roads improve. We arrive at Lauren’s at 3:30.  Alan is there to welcome us and the rest of the family arrive home from school a few minutes later.  They’d seen us on the road in but Earl says he was probably concentrating too hard on the road to notice.

It was really cold so Alan lit a fire and we spent the afternoon chatting and enjoying our rural family.

Friday 17 April 2015 Kokstad

The weather has not warmed up and we slept under an extra blanket last night.   Lauren will put an electric blanket on our bed tonight.   The kids woke us up with a lovely cup of hot coffee and then Lauren and Shannon went off to school. Simon said he wasn’t feeling well so Lauren allowed him to take the day off.   I think he just couldn’t pull himself away from Granny and Grandpa.  His dad made him have a sleep at midday though.   He said he was tired and needed a rest. After breakfast we walked up the hill with Alan and he showed us where they plan to build their new house if they don’t move to the Midlands. It will have a fabulous view of the valley. Later we went to town to get some warm t-shirts for Earl.  We bumped into Ann in Woolworths.

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Saturday 18 April 2015 Shan’s hockey match

The skies were clear and sunny this morning and I hoped for a higher temperature.  But that was not to be!  There was frost on the ground early this morning.  Lauren and Alan woke us with our usual hot cup of coffee and then informed us of the plans for the day.   Shannon was at Bible Camp but had a hockey match so we all went off to support her.  I made sure to dress in a denim skirt, tights and boots with a warm jacket and felt quite comfortable while I watched Shan captain her team.

After the match we went to The Wimpy for breakfast and then back to the farm where we relaxed for the rest of the day.

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Sunday 19 April 2015 visit to Glynis and Hilton

Earl, Simon and I went to visit Glynis and Hilton at their beautiful home in town this morning.   It was a tad warmer and we sat outdoors to enjoy a cup of tea and chat with them.  Hilton and Earl have both their careers and hobbies in common.  It was interesting to note that Hilton had also just bought a Land Rover Disco 4 although he had the more luxurious SE model.

Lauren and Shannon joined us at lunchtime and Glynis organised Nando’s chicken for lunch.  We had a really good time.

Monday 20 April 2015 lunch at the Mackenzies

Before we made our way to Brooklyn Farm we stopped at Imbali Guest House for breakfast.  We bumped into Patty and Brian Clarke there.  Patty walked in first and chatted to us and then Brian came in – he greeted us but we could see he didn’t quite know who we were.   Patty reminded him that we were Lauren’s parents and then he came over to chat!

The weather was much warmer today.  We sat on the patio in the sunshine and it was really pleasant.  Ann’s two little ones were spending the day with Granny. They are too cute and we enjoyed watching them play.   Caitlyn is almost five and James is three.  She is a real little girl and loves to wear dresses and is totally into pink and fairies. James is a typical Kokstad farm boy!

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Caitlyn and James having fun

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Barbara and Me enjoying a chat

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Great-Uncle Earl showing the kids pictures of his fish

Murray joined us for lunch and then took Earl and Andrew to the dairy at which he works to see the milking. Earl was hugely impressed with the technology and the perfect running of the plant.

We shopped for dinner on our way home and I cooked a bobotie for supper.

Tuesday 21 April 2015 Trip to Durban

This morning we were woken once again with excellent coffee and rusks. Lauren then went off to school with Simon and left Shannon to sleep a little longer.  She returned at quarter to nine and off we went to take Shan to Musgrave Medical Centre to consult a maxilla facial specialist. She has been having problem chewing and her jaw gets sore from time to time.

The plan was to meet up with Niru and have lunch with her while L and S were at the doctor’s.  It is a 3 hour trip to Durban. The weather was lovely.  I was at last able to wear a summer dress although I started with leggings and a jersey in the early morning.  They came off well before we hit Durban.

We stopped at Port Shepstone to refuel and get muffins and coffee for breakfast and arrived at Musgrave at around 12:15.  We parked at the medical centre and then walked to Musgrave Mall.  A quick call to Niru and w met at Woolworths Coffee Shop. Lauren and Shan ordered quickly and then left while we stayed to chat and have a meal with Niru.  It was so good to catch up with all her news. The kids are doing well and they’ve just had an amazing holiday in Thailand.

Niru and Me at Woolworths Coffee Shop, Musgrave

Niru and Me at Woolworths Coffee Shop, Musgrave

Lauren and Shannon were done by 2:00 p.m. so we walked back to our parking and then made our way to Shirley to pick up a donation of four boxes of clothing for a charity that Andrew supports.  We had tea with them and then were back on the road.

Grandfathe and Granddaughter sharing a joke

Grandfather and Granddaughter sharing a joke

It was not a bad trip at all. Simon was with Nicoline and Sean so we stopped by there to pick him up, had a quick drink with them and were back home at 6:45.  Alan had a delicious stew ready for our dinner.   We were quite tired so were in bed by 9.

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Visiting the Kids in Kokstad – Getting There

Yes – another trip!  We certainly are enjoying our adventurous retirement. We saw our rural kids in Struisbaai and Cape Town in  December/January. Our last visit to them in Kokstad was a year ago so really another visit was due.  We also had the excuse of our brother-in-law, Andrew’s 80th coming up in May so after less than two weeks at home after our Kgalagadi trip we departed Cape Town yet again.

Our new home is going to be Struisbaai but we haven’t had time to move there yet!  Therefore we decided to stop there for two nights to see that everything was still in order at the house and to check what needed to be done there.   Earl sorted out the garden, I checked the inventory and we decided that a new Convection Oven should be added to the kitchen equipment.

Of course we also checked out the birdlife in the area.

Cape bulbul

Cape bulbul

Common Waxbill

Common Waxbill

Common Fiscal

Common Fiscal

African Pipit

African Pipit

Female Southern Black Korhaan

Female Southern Black Korhaan

A visit to the harbour is compulsory and on the Sunday the day was clear and beautiful and the stingrays were having the time of their lives

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On Monday 13 April we made our way to Great Brak to visit Diane and Carey.  What a piece of paradise they have found.   Carey was just out of hospital after a back operation but he was up and about and keen to show us everything.  On Tuesday Diane and I took a very steep walk to the river planning to get a ride back with Earl but the pet calf followed us so we had to walk her back!   It was a steep climb but I certainly needed the exercise.

First bird we saw - swee waxbill

First bird we saw – swee waxbill

Diane's fishpond is a source of delight to the cat

Diane’s fishpond is a source of delight to the cat

He fell in trying to get a catch then swam to the edge without suffering too much trauma

He fell in trying to get a catch then swam to the edge without suffering too much trauma

Very pretty walk

Very pretty walk

Even the calf enjoyed it

Even the calf enjoyed it

But, boy was it steep to get back

But, boy was it steep to get back

Although it was only a day and a night with Carey and Diane we had an amazing time and are so impressed with what they have done with their place.   Carey custom builds campervans and has set up an amazing workshop on the plot.  Diane has taken to the country life like she was born to it. Next time we will stay for longer.

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Visiting the Kids in Kokstad – Stopover at Mountain Zebra National Park

Our next stopover was Mountain Zebra National Park.  We spent two nights there.   Our accommodation was a family cottage and it was amazing.   The beds had down duvets – very necessary as it was freezing!   The cottage was spotless and well equipped, the towels snowy white and everything worked!   We had a beautiful view and the monkeys were our most frequent visitors.  We had one breakfast and one dinner at the restaurant and we were hugely impressed.  The service was friendly and efficient and the food excellent.

The lovley thing about Mountain Zebra National Park which is situated near Cradock in the Eastern Cape is that it is totally unspoilt.   It is a small park set in the mountains, with plenty of mountain zebra and other mammals including 2 male lions (we did not see them) some cheetah (didn’t see them either) black rhino (dipped of these too) buffalo, red harteest, gemsbok and variety of other buck species.  The birdlife is also varied and we were well entertained on our drives. The scenery too is magnificent.   We checked out the campsite and were impressed.  We will come here with the caravan on future visits.  The only reason we did not bring the caravan this time was because we were to be staying with Lauren and going to a few places where we could not camp.

Tuesday 14 april 2015 Mountain Zebra National Park

The drive to Mountain Zebra National Park near Craddock is a pleasant 5 hours.  We stop for breakfast at Uniondale.  We find a restaurant but are told that it is no longer functioning and she directs us to the hotel.  It looks very bleak and uninviting but we are welcomed and shown into a large dining room with beautiful paintings of Italy on the walls. The coffee is excellent and we order omelettes which are lovely.   The melon and ginger jam with toast is quite delightful.  We are the only patrons but as we are leaving I see a woman of about my age and her mother approaching the restaurant.  They look a little unsure.  I ask if they’re going for breakfast and the younger woman says – We just want coffee – is it any good.  Ï assure that it is and tell her that if she doesn’t want breakfast she could just order the toast and melon and ginger jam. She looks relieved and ushers her ancient mom, walking with a stick, into the restaurant.

It is overcast and cold at first and freezing in Uniondale but the weather gradually warms up.  It is 24 C when we get to the reserve.   We drive around for a while and see Mountain Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Kudu, monkeys and a variety of birds including scaly-feathered finch, common fiscal, white-browed sparrow-weaver, Cape sparrow, white-backed mousebirds, Rufous-cheeked warbler, blacksmith lapwing, spoonbill, Egyptian Geese and yellow-billed ducks.

This is why it is called Mountain Zebra National Park This is why it is called Mountain Zebra National Park
Scaly Feathered finch A rather special find – Rufous-eared warbler

We then check in and have a short rest in our cottage – number 6.

At 4:30 we drive out again and it is very cold.  We see a variety of animals and birds and then return and have a braai for supper.
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WEDNESDAY 15 APRIL 2015 MOUNTAIN ZEBRA NATIONAL PARK
We wake up without the alarm at 6:30. Gate opening is 7:00. We are out by 7:10 and take the mountain pass route. There is lots of game about – buffalo, black wildebeest, blesbok, springbok and eland. Birdlife is good too. A little pond produces spoonbills, yellow-billed ducks and red billed teal – rare in the park. The monkeys in the park are very naughty as moneys tend to be – we were amused to see them try to chase a pair of blue crane. By the end of the drive we had our bird list up to 35 – not as many as I thought but we seem to see the same species over and over again.

Back at camp we have breakfast at the restaurant – we are the only guests but the eggs and bacon for Earl and omelette for me are excellent.

Earl takes a nap and I go for a walk. I find a woodpecker, chestnut vented tit-babbler, mouse-birds, cliff swallows, a double-collared sunbird and lots of Cape Buntings. The walk is lovely and I want to do the longer, Black Eagle one but decide that it’s not idea to do it on my own.

Double-collared sunbird Double-collared sunbird

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Rufous-vented titbabbler Rufous-vented titbabbler

Earl wakes up from his snooze at 2:30 and we go out for another drive. We take the 4X2 Loop which is very scenic but does not produce much game or birds. Towards the end we do see lots of baboons, black wildebeest, blesbok, zebra and springbok.
The birding toward the camp is good and once inside camp we find a few golden breasted bunting. Our list is now up to 42 species.

IMG_1010 IMG_1024 IMG_1047 We return and it is getting really cold. Earl can’t seem to warm up and his gout is bothering him. I take a hot shower and put on a long sleeved dress and leggings. We go to the restaurant for supper. Earl has lamb shank and I order two starters – springbok carpaccio and chilli chicken livers. The meal is amazing. I am hugely impressed with the standard of the restaurant. Much better than the Bug ‘n Mean in Kruger National Park.
When we return to the chalet Earl has a hot shower and hops into bed. I put an extra blanket on to ensure that he doesn’t freeze to death. Later in the evening I have to get up and it is absolutely freezing! The temperatures really drop here at night – not that they are that high during the day!

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Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Tuesday 31 March 2015

Today is our last full day in the park.  We are up at the usual early hour of 5:15 and ready to leave by 6:15. From tomorrow gate opening time moves to 7:00 am.

It is still overcast but the air temperature is warm.   We take the Rooiputs Road.  Just before Rooiputs Jim and Maureen stop ahead of us.  I look to the right and spot one cheetah, then Earl says there is one in the tree – then a second one jumps down from the tree. We watch the three cheetah play and roll and generally get going for the morning.  Soon other cars gather and we all jostle for position while watching what the cheetahs will do.  Eventually they make their way to the ridge and disappear.

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At 7:15 we find a tawny eagle that is very photographable.  There is a Lanner in the same tree.

At quarter to eight we find the same two male lions we saw yesterday.  They are fat and lazy and do very little but sleep.   We wonder where the females are and Earl finds them on a distant dune but they do not make a proper appearance.  After watching the more wakeful male do his ablutions we move on as the loo is calling.

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At Melkvlei we have a brief loo break then move on to see if we can find the other cheetahs but don’t have any luck so we return to Melkvlei for breakfast.

Later we find one of the males on the move. We hear the first one had already gone over the ridge.

We then make our way back to Twee Rivieren stopping to enjoy the smaller things.

Back at camp, I do the laundry and make sandwiches for lunch.   The Pearl Spotted owl is back in our tree and while photographing him I find a brubru as well.  Earl takes a nap and I wander around camp to do some birding.  When he wakes he joins me.  We then go for a short drive to find more birds.  We do find a Brant’s Whistling Rat!

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Brubru

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Groundscraper Thrush

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Ground Squirrel emerging from his hole

Brant's Whistling Rat

Brant’s Whistling Rat

Secretary Bird on top of tree

Secretary Bird on top of tree

Scaly Feathered Finch

Scaly Feathered Finch

For supper Maureen makes a delicious lamb chop curry.   We turn in at 9. Tomorrow we will wake a little later, pack up and leave KTP at about 9.

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Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Monday 30 March 2015

It rained during the night and it is quite chilly when we wake up this morning. However, I still think shorts will be okay. Luckily I take a fleece with me as the weather does not warm up above 20 degrees C.
Earl goes ahead to wait in the queue while I go to the loo. As I walk towards reception I notice that two cars are already lining up at the gate. This means that they did not hand in their permits last night and are illegally up front! The rest of us wait for the gate staff to arrive and check us out before we can drive to the game area gate! Jim should be first but is now third and Earl is fourth. We take the Rooiputs road and have a brief encounter with some playful jackal.
At quarter to eight we see the illegal starters stopped on the side of the road – they are looking at lion.
The first one I spot is a big male.
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then Earl points out two females near to him. They are just lying there in on the dune.
Another male is short way away fast asleep. While we watch, the females get up and go up onto the ridge. Then three more come over to meet them. We can hear roaring and suspect there is another male somewhere.
We watch the male get up take a walk and find a puddle to drink from but nothing else special happens so we move on.
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001 Lion Earl

A few kilometres on we find a female crouching in hunting mode at the crest of the dune. We watch her for a while but do not see what she is stalking so we move on.
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Martial Eagle

We stop at Melkvlei for a loo break and then decide to retrace our route and take the Dune road to Achterlonie. We find the same female and hear a roar. At first we think a male is calling her but then see that she is the one making the din!
On the Dune road we are delighted to see that beautiful yellow flowers have sprung up after the rains. I think they are called Dubbeltjies.
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We see korhaan and Kori Bustards and two Spurwinged geese fly overhead. Some ant-eating chats don’t like the tawny that perches in their territory.
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Two jackal puppies are exploring unattended by their parents. They seem nervous of the car at first and then ignore us and continue their antics. They are so cute one feels that one can pick them up and take them home for pets.
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We have breakfast at Achterlonie and take a look at the old historic cottage. It is so cold that we eat in the car.
The rest of our trip produces very little and we are back at camp by 12:30. At half past three we decide to go to The Kgalagadi lodge for a late lunch instead of cooking supper tonight. We are delighted with our meals – pepper steaks for Jim, Maureen and Earl and I have an Adam and Eve – Rump steak with green fig and blue cheese sauce.
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When we return Earl and I decide to take a quick drive to the waterhole – but stay out longer than we planned! We try to find yesterday’s caracal without success but enjoy a bit of bird-watching. The highlight is a martial eagle and when we get back into the gate we find black-faced wax-bills.

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Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Sunday 29 March 2015

There is great resistance to rising early this morning and Earl lies in a little later while I am off to the showers at 5:30. I hear later that Jim felt the same way! As we wait in line for to collect our permits, Maureen says – It’s so overcast today – we probably won’t see very much – not the right conditions. Don’t be so sure, I say, anything can happen – the bush is unpredictable! We go through the gate as dawn is breaking and a brilliant red sky greets us, Earl says – I don’t see the point of these early starts! No self-respecting animal will be at the waterholes and there is so much water lying about they don’t even need to be near the roads! Blah-blah, moan-moan. I smile sweetly and offer to drive which is met with firm no thank you. It is 7 am and what is this up ahead. Jim and another car are stopped and as we approach I call out – Lion – no cheetah! Three are crouched together chewing something in the dirt. The animals tend to lick the dust for its salt content. We cannot make out anything else edible. We watch the three interact and have fun and the scene is on the correct side of the road in the golden light! 002 Cheetah Helen Powershot 2015-03-29 07-06-00 AM 3146x2268 002 Cheetah Helen Powershot 2015-03-29 07-06-02 AM 3299x2516 002 Cheetahs Helen powershot 2015-03-29 07-17-39 AM 2617x1965 There is a single gemsbok on the dune watching carefully, fully aware that he could become breakfast. The trio suddenly get up and one by one start walking towards the dune. We follow and hope to see a chase but not today. The gemsbok decides that caution is the better part of valour and gallops off. A little further on we Jim stops. We catch up and see a jackal taking off. But wait there are two more and they’re on a kill! Did they take down this springbok on their own – I think not. It was probably a leopard. The jackals tear at it and one by one as they satiate themselves quickly leave the scene. 003 Two Jackals on kill 2015-03-29 07-31-29 AM 4608x3456 This is a pretty good start to our day. Let us content ourselves with birding now as there can’t possibly be anything more exciting in store. It is 8:30 and what do we see? More cheetahs – but on the East side of the road – into the sun. There are 5 of them – Mother and four teenager kittens. And they are eating a fresh kill of Gemsbok! How lucky are we! We watch them and photograph them for ages. 005 Cheetah Helen Powershot 2015-03-29 08-59-13 AM 3588x2548 The cheeky jackals are hovering and trying to get a paw in. But the mother chases them off. The tawny eagles – three of them fly in and try to make a grab but Mom jumps into the air to frighten them off. 006 Tawny 2015-03-29 08-42-47 AM 2699x1810 The little ones scrap and fight for dominance of the kill. Then Mom comes to get her share, disciplining the greedy kids. Every now and then she chases the jackals away. Then all of a sudden all five of them take off across the road with us following and disappear over the hill. We realise that something has frightened them off and return to the scene to find a male lion making a meal of the left overs. Clearly the howling of the jackals have alerted him to the fact that a canteen is open nearby. We watch the lion feast and then walk off. He finds a puddle of water and drinks for a while then walks back and over the dune and disappear. What an amazing sighting. 008 Lion Helen Powershot 2015-03-29 09-25-57 AM 3331x2435 We continue to Melkvlei for breakfast and then retrace our steps to find the kill site awash with vultures and tawny eagles. Wow! 008 Cape Vulture 2015-03-29 10-18-59 AM 4608x3456009 Tawny Helen Powershot 2015-03-29 09-33-17 AM 2617x1965 009 Lappet-faced Vulture 2015-03-29 10-18-46 AM 2618x1965 009 Cape Vulture Helen Panasonic 2015-03-29 12-30-17 PM 4608x3456 Jim and Maureen are ahead of us but we waste time watching baby ostrich and then slowly follow on. At the site of the jackal kill from this morning we find more vultures and take photographs of three different species. At Rooiputs waterhole we find the wildebeest having a Sunday afternoon nap. We try to catch up with Jim but he is way ahead Earl yells – Lynx – and a caracal crosses in front of us with a ground squirrel in his jaws. Omigosh! I am beside myself trying to get a photograph but he darts up the dune and disappear. I’ve lost my opportunity. Let’s wait and see, I say to Earl. He may appear and sure enough he emerges from behind a tree and looks at us – kill hanging from his mouth.

Poor ground squirrel

Poor ground squirrel

We keep him in our sights until he settles under a distant tree. The squirrel is behind him and he is panting to regain his breath. We manage few poor photographs and watch to see if he will feast upon his prey – but clearly he is saving it till later.

Tired after the chase

Tired after the chase

No other car comes by and we need to move on. Around the corner we see “Boshuisie” – grandparents in a campervan with their little grandchild. We stop them and tell them where to find the caracal. Follow us, we say, we will turn around and show you exactly where Two other cars appear and we show them all where to find the caracal. I persuade Earl to turn into the waterhole and we find two birds – a greenshank and double banded plover. Back at camp Jim and Maureen are just tucking into their lunch. We tell them about our special sighting then make chicken sandwiches for our own lunch. We plan to bird in the camp but the rains come and we only manage to get the pearl spotted rain lets up enough for me to cook and for us to eat our meal. Earl and I drive to the ablutions to shower and do our teeth and by the time we return the rain is coming down – much needed in this dry environment.

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Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Saturday 28 March 2015

The rain seems to be holding off and there is no wind at all today.  We go out early as usual and take the Mata Mata Road until the Dune Road turnoff and then take that.  It is a very successful drive as far as birds are concerned.   Once again I will let the photographs tell the story.

An early morning Tawny Eagle

An early morning Tawny Eagle

Black Shouldered Kite

Black Shouldered Kite

Elegant Giraffe striding up the dune bank

Elegant Giraffe striding up the dune bank

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Earl has not yet filled up with Diesel so we do not go any further than Melkvlei which is largely flooded but we find a table that is on dry ground and have a late breakfast there.   On our return trip we have some interesting sightings.  A tortoise and springbok find the road puddles convenient drinking places.

The Springbok eyes the tortois with suspicion

The Springbok eyes the tortois with suspicion

The tortoise decides to make way for the springbok

The tortoise decides to make way for the springbok

The thirsty bokkie can now take a drink

The thirsty bokkie can now take a drink

Soon after this Earl nearly jumps out of the window when he spots a cobra right in front of the car.   We get some good photos of him before he slithers off into the bush toward a secretary bird. They haven’t seen each other but if the sec bird spots the snake he will become lunch!

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The secretary is thirsty

The secretary is contemplating something – lunch or a bath?

No – the secretary is more interested in his abutions.

Refreshingly cool on a hot day

Refreshingly cool on a hot day

Tip toe out

Tip toe out

And shake the feathers

And shake the feathers

Back at camp we go to the shop which is better stocked than Mata Mata and Nossob. We get hot pies and ice creams for lunch – what a treat!

We spent the afternoon in camp catching up with chores and diary writing etc.  For supper we pooled ingredients and Maureen cooked us a delicious chicken stew.

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Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Friday 27 March 2015 Polentswa to Twee Rivieren

Friday 27 march 2015 polentswa to twee rivieren

It is a long drive to Twee Rivieren and we are packed up and ready to leave by 6:40.   We stop off at Nossob to refuel and find out if the road south has suffered any damage from the storm  There is no diesel!  Fortunately we have enough to get us there with some to spare!

The sightings are mainly bird.  There are the usual gemsbok, springbok and plenty of red hartebeest about but otherwise nothing particularly exciting.   The pictures below will tell the story.

Red Hartebeest

Red Hartebeest

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We find the campsite very full at TR.   Our site is small and we are cheek to jowl with other campers but we all have sufficient shade.  We do not have an electrical outlet nearby but we have two long leads and so the men make a plan with a long extension lead.

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Once we have unpacked we check in at reception and then drive 5km to the Kgalagadi Safari Lodge where they have a wonderful shop with fresh produce!  What a treat to find a variety of fruit and vegetables as well as bread, yogurt and plenty of other things that are unavailable in the park!  We are like kids in a candy store as we pick and choose – goodbye canned food!

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After our shopping we sit on the deck and enjoy sundowners before returning to camp.

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To our surprise and delight we find that the Bush Lapa Caravan next to our site belongs to Daan and Jeanette. We do not realise it is theirs until they return from their game drive.  It is their last night in the park and we all braai together – Maureen does the butternut, Jeanette the potato salad and I make a Greek Salad.   We have a delightful evening around Jeanette and Daan’s table and a firm friendship is forged.  Hopefully we will catch up with them in Wellington sometime in the future.

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Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Polentswa Thursday 26 March 2015

Thursday 26 march 2015

It is a lovely morning once again and we go out for an early morning drive.  The owl is in his usual place, screaming for food from Mom.

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We drive 5 km north and then turn around and go to Koussant Water Hole but do not see anything too exciting.  We enjoy the birds, however, and are delighted to see that there is so much water around.  The KTP really needed these rains. It does mean that the animals don’t need to come to the waterholes and are making themselves scarce.   There is quite a bit of devastation after the storm and we find blown down trees across the road. Fortunately there are detours that we can take round therm.

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We are once again fascinated to find water birds in the dessert.  Isn’t it amazing how creatures instinctively know where there are new water venues!  We have fun watching the jacana hawking in a puddle in the middle of the road.

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Not often seen in the Kgalagadi - A juvenile black-winged stilt

Not often seen in the Kgalagadi – A juvenile black-winged stilt

We return to camp for brunch and have bacon and egg sandwiches.  Later in the afternoon, M and J decide to stay in camp to complete their packing and Earl and I go for a birding drive.   The results can be seen in the photographs below!

Red Hartebeest confrontation

Red Hartebeest confrontation

Three-banded plover

Three-banded plover

scaly-feathered finch

scaly-feathered finch

Familiar Chat

Familiar Chat

Lesser Grey Shrike

Lesser Grey Shrike

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Caravanning in the Kgalagadi – Polentswa Wednesday 25 March 2015

We wake to the sound of roaring lions this morning. I look out to see Jim shining his torch into the bush while standing guard at the long drop. I think the lions are just behind the tree but Earl assures me that they are far away.
We go south all the way to Nossob 60 km away. There is still a lot of water on the road and we see very little game.

At Polentswa we have been very frugal with our water supplies and showering has been limited to 30 second splash downs. So as soon as we get to Nossob we go the the ablutions for a shower. Joy of joy we find that the geyser system has been repaired and we have loads of hot water.
We then go to refuel and shop. I go ahead while he is at the filling station. When he comes in, he says – where is our envelope of cash? On our way here I’d checked how much there was and put it back in the cubby hole. It’s not there he says. Men! They look with boy eyes. I go and check, search and search – no envelope! It must have been stolen. But the wallet, iPad, cell phones, cameras are all untouched. I begin to doubt myself. Did I drop the envelope out of the car? I return to the ablution block and search around the area where we were parked. I report the loss to reception. The attendant asks me Where did you last have the cash? You must check your car thoroughly.  But after all 4 do us search nothing turns up. Maureen pays for our purchases then we search again. I am sure I put the envelope on top of the handbook which sits on a bracket in the cubby hole. Maureen feels down the back of the cubby and declares that she can feel something, eRl tries too and agrees with her but is it the envelope? There is no way of grabbing it or reaching it I any way so we go to the picnic site, enjoy our brekkie and decide to take the cubby apart when we get back to camp. Our men have tools for the job.

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Picnic Breakfast at Nossob Visitors’ Area

Our return it is heartening to see lots of game. The rainfall has brought them back. But no cats again today.

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We often see just one wildebeest with a herd of another species

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Lovely herd of red hartebeest with young

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Water everywhere

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Just wait while I finish my drink, please

We return to camp and as Maureen is about to step into her caravan she spots something curled up next to her fridge. She leaps away nimbly and yells – snake!

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Lazy, fat puff adder – luckily fast asleep

I grab my camera, Earl runs with a tent pole yelling Don’t worry I’ll catch it. Jim also bravely approaches the spot while M and I scream don’t let it bite you. We don’t have snake bite kits. The macho men approach and Earl hooks him onto the pole and flings him away and onto the ground. The snake refuses to scurry off so he lifts him again and throws him under a tree where it curls up and goes back to sleep. My hero!

Snake Charmer-001 004 Puff adder 2015-03-25 01-25-37 PM 2618x1965 2015-03-25 01-25-37 PM 2618x1965 004 Puff Adder under tree 2015-03-25 01-42-27 PM 4608x3456After the excitement dies down Maureen washes last nights supper dishes and I dry. Then Earl and Jim get going worth torque keys and screw drivers. There is much grunting and groaning and struggling, but the task is not as easy as they hoped. Maureen calls Jim for lunch but Earl refuses to give up. I fear that the effort is for naught and my fears are confirmed when he manages to get his hand behind the cubby and says there is nothing here. But he struggles on and although he doesn’t get the cubby hole free he manages to free it a little more. I can see it he yells and Jim brings a pair of pliers. He grips the envelope and to my delight R3500 is returned to my grateful hands. For the second time today my hubby is my hero.

He then cooks us bacon and egg sandwiches and we sit and relax while watching lightening and listening g to thunder. The storm is some miles away but within minutes a bright flash of lightening and deafening clap of thunder warn us and  E says we had better get to the caravan now. He and Maureen pack the chairs under her shelter and I run and put everything that’s out away and shut up our kitchen. Just as we shut the door the rain comes pelting down and an enormous wind violently rocks the caravan. After 5 minutes it gets worse and rips the tent poles out of the ground and the tarpaulin rips free from the Velcro. Earl rushes out to rescue what he can. Jim’s solar panels are whipped up by the wind and a Earl chases after them too. Jim rushes out to help. Our tent poles are be bent and the hooks scattered around the campsite. It’s all over in 20 minutes and then the mopping up begins. Not too much damage but we decide to do without the extra side tarpaulin for now. Earl is my hero yet again.
The rain clears and there is calm once again.

Our heros glowing in sunshine

Our hero enjoying a well deserved drink after all the drama of the day!

In the evening we have a braai. As we turn in for the night we hear Maureen scream – it’s back and it hissed at me.  Earl calls out – Just hang on – I’m coming – He tries to get his head torch on but the strap comes loose – it’s seems like hours but is only seconds before I help him get it together again – he rushes forth with braai tongs in hand and he and Jim march off like Vikings into the night to make sure the snake does not return.

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Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Polentswa Tuesday 24 March 2015

It rained again in the night but this morning, though cold the weather has cleared.   Nevertheless I dress in jeans and a long sleeve shirt and we head for Polentswa waterhole.  The baby owl is the only creature of real interest.

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We continue to Kannegaus and on the way find a rabbit in our path.  There is plenty of water on the road and all the waterholes are flooded with other water lying about nearby.  We see mainly wildebeest and gemsbok drinking.

002 Kousant Water Hole flooded Helen Powershot 2015-03-24 07-48-03 AM 4608x3456

The Gemsbok seem amazed at the extra water at the borehole

The sandgrouse are having a lovely time with more choices of water supply and less hassles from lanners.  We find them drinking all over the place.

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We do not see much but here are photographs of what we did see today.

The Crowned Lapwings were everywhere - just loving all the puddles

The Crowned Lapwings were everywhere – just loving all the puddles

A lanner wondering where all the doves are

A lanner wondering where all the doves are

A jackal relaxing on the muddy river bed

A jackal relaxing on the muddy river bed

We were back in camp by lunch time and the weather had warmed up to shorts and t-shirt status again.

The enormous sky

The enormous sky

And the sun starts to set

And the sun starts to set

Red Sky at night Kgalagdi delight

Red Sky at night Kgalagdi delight

For dinner Maureen cooked a lovely meal of mince, potatoes and gem squash. It was pleasant sitting out but by 8 o’clock it looked like it would rain so we got into our caravans and had an early night.  There was a brief storm but nothing too serious.