There is great resistance to rising early this morning and Earl lies in a little later while I am off to the showers at 5:30. I hear later that Jim felt the same way! As we wait in line for to collect our permits, Maureen says – It’s so overcast today – we probably won’t see very much – not the right conditions. Don’t be so sure, I say, anything can happen – the bush is unpredictable! We go through the gate as dawn is breaking and a brilliant red sky greets us, Earl says – I don’t see the point of these early starts! No self-respecting animal will be at the waterholes and there is so much water lying about they don’t even need to be near the roads! Blah-blah, moan-moan. I smile sweetly and offer to drive which is met with firm no thank you. It is 7 am and what is this up ahead. Jim and another car are stopped and as we approach I call out – Lion – no cheetah! Three are crouched together chewing something in the dirt. The animals tend to lick the dust for its salt content. We cannot make out anything else edible. We watch the three interact and have fun and the scene is on the correct side of the road in the golden light! There is a single gemsbok on the dune watching carefully, fully aware that he could become breakfast. The trio suddenly get up and one by one start walking towards the dune. We follow and hope to see a chase but not today. The gemsbok decides that caution is the better part of valour and gallops off. A little further on we Jim stops. We catch up and see a jackal taking off. But wait there are two more and they’re on a kill! Did they take down this springbok on their own – I think not. It was probably a leopard. The jackals tear at it and one by one as they satiate themselves quickly leave the scene. This is a pretty good start to our day. Let us content ourselves with birding now as there can’t possibly be anything more exciting in store. It is 8:30 and what do we see? More cheetahs – but on the East side of the road – into the sun. There are 5 of them – Mother and four teenager kittens. And they are eating a fresh kill of Gemsbok! How lucky are we! We watch them and photograph them for ages. The cheeky jackals are hovering and trying to get a paw in. But the mother chases them off. The tawny eagles – three of them fly in and try to make a grab but Mom jumps into the air to frighten them off. The little ones scrap and fight for dominance of the kill. Then Mom comes to get her share, disciplining the greedy kids. Every now and then she chases the jackals away. Then all of a sudden all five of them take off across the road with us following and disappear over the hill. We realise that something has frightened them off and return to the scene to find a male lion making a meal of the left overs. Clearly the howling of the jackals have alerted him to the fact that a canteen is open nearby. We watch the lion feast and then walk off. He finds a puddle of water and drinks for a while then walks back and over the dune and disappear. What an amazing sighting. We continue to Melkvlei for breakfast and then retrace our steps to find the kill site awash with vultures and tawny eagles. Wow! Jim and Maureen are ahead of us but we waste time watching baby ostrich and then slowly follow on. At the site of the jackal kill from this morning we find more vultures and take photographs of three different species. At Rooiputs waterhole we find the wildebeest having a Sunday afternoon nap. We try to catch up with Jim but he is way ahead Earl yells – Lynx – and a caracal crosses in front of us with a ground squirrel in his jaws. Omigosh! I am beside myself trying to get a photograph but he darts up the dune and disappear. I’ve lost my opportunity. Let’s wait and see, I say to Earl. He may appear and sure enough he emerges from behind a tree and looks at us – kill hanging from his mouth.

Poor ground squirrel

We keep him in our sights until he settles under a distant tree. The squirrel is behind him and he is panting to regain his breath. We manage few poor photographs and watch to see if he will feast upon his prey – but clearly he is saving it till later.

Tired after the chase

No other car comes by and we need to move on. Around the corner we see “Boshuisie” – grandparents in a campervan with their little grandchild. We stop them and tell them where to find the caracal. Follow us, we say, we will turn around and show you exactly where Two other cars appear and we show them all where to find the caracal. I persuade Earl to turn into the waterhole and we find two birds – a greenshank and double banded plover. Back at camp Jim and Maureen are just tucking into their lunch. We tell them about our special sighting then make chicken sandwiches for our own lunch. We plan to bird in the camp but the rains come and we only manage to get the pearl spotted rain lets up enough for me to cook and for us to eat our meal. Earl and I drive to the ablutions to shower and do our teeth and by the time we return the rain is coming down – much needed in this dry environment.