Wheatear | Diary of an Adventurous Retiree

After a rainy and cold week we find ourselves here in Struisbaai once again. A text from our rental agent warned us that there might be road closures due to the recent heavy rains and flooding. Really? We didn’t give it too much thought and set off with Tony and Sharon at about 3:30 yesterday afternoon. “I’d better just phone and check,” I said. “It would be a pity to get to Bredasdorp only to find that road closed.” Sure enough, we were warned that only twin cabs and 4X4s were able to make it through. “Huh?” No problem for us as fortunately as we drive a Fortuner! I still didn’t believe that it could be that bad but it was! There was a virtual river running across the road halfway between Bredasdorp and Struisbaai.

Will the big truck get through – Yes indeed so we should too.

Fellow travellers forging the river

It was dark and cold when we reached our house and we put on the gas heater the minute we’d unpacked! Then after a glass of wine and chat we set off to Agulhas to seek a place to have dinner. To our horror Seagulls was closed – apparently taking advantage of the quiet season to get away for their annual holiday. So we settled for Zuidste Kaap Restaurant (Most Southern Cape Restaurant) which had a fire in a huge hearth and very good food. (The fire did very little to warm the place though) Earl had Eisbein and Sharon and I had Vegetarian Pasta and Tony Rainbow Pasta. All excellent.

We slept snugly and rose this morning to a unique “Early” breakfast. Nobody else can possibly compete with whatever it is he does to make this the most delicious breakfast in the world. (Thanks my darling)

We then packed up and took ourselves off to De Hoop Nature Reserve – a very special place about an hour or so away. The results of the recent rains were evident everywhere and had attracted a variety of waterbirds not usually seen in the area.

A tranquil scene on a temporary lake

Indulging in a morning preen

Aren’t we beautiful

From Bredasdorp we take the Swellendam Road and then 6km out of Bredasdorp we take the dirt road to Malgas travelling about 40 km before turning right to De Hoop. En route, we stop of course, to observe birds and take scenic photographs.

Now we know why it is so cold – Snow on the Caledon Mountains!

A Patchwork of colour with farmhouse in background

A Grey Heron with an identity crisis – He is impersonating a swan

Capped Wheatear posing obligingly

Flood water creating a lovely scene

Mommy sheep with twins

Spurwinged Goose, Two Cape Shovellers and A Yellow-billed Duck

The proteas in the park were in full bloom

Although it was still chilly we the sun was shiny and there was good light and after the rain everything looked bright and clear. The birds and animals in the park clearly thought today was the day to make an appearance and we found them everywhere. All were enjoying the sunshine and the abundance of water.

De Hoop Nature Reserve is 34 000 ha in size and the largest natural area managed by Cape Nature. It is a good place to go if you enjoy hiking, cycling, bird watching and of course whale watching.

It forms part of the world’s smallest and most threatened plant Kingdom – the Cape Floral Kingdom. Fynbos is the dominant vegetation group. The Bredasdorp / Agulhas and Infanta area has an estimated 1500 plant species of the approximately 9 000 species found in the Cape Floristic Region. We live in a beautiful part of the world and have such interesting flora and fauna. What a privilege to have such easy access to it. Not only can we see the rare bontebok and other mammal species here but it is adjacent to the De Hoop Marine Reserve too and at Koppie Alleen there is an opportunity to see whales and other marine life too.

Cape Bulbul catching some rays

Common Fiscal

Ostriches out and about

Cape Mountain Zebra

Male and Female Eland

Bontebok

Our close cousins

Bokmakierie

We have often dined at the restaurant in the park and can highly recommend it. Sharon and I had traditional South African fare in the form of Bobotie and Tony and Earl indulged in Mussel Chowder.

The Four of Us Indulging in Good South African Food

This cheeky chap demanded crumbs but we declined to indulge him.

Cape Francolin

The trees were full of noisy birds eating berries

Cape Bulbul

Mousebird

After lunch we drove to Koppie Alleen to see if we could spot a whale or two. We were not disappointed. There were dozens of Southern Right Whales in the bay which were seen clearly with the aid of our binoculars. It was bitterly cold on the dunes so we didn’t spend too much time before we were driven back to the warmth of our vehicle.

Koppie Alleen

Whale Watching

The Bay was full of Southern Right Whales

On our way out the baboons once again amused us.

Daddy Baboon

Mommy and Baby

After a great day out we returned to our cosy cottage and Chef Earl produced a wonderful braai – chicken wings on sticks, skilpaaidjies (not real tortoises honestly – just liver wrapped in sheep fat) lamb chops, vegetables in foil and Sharon’s Coleslaw. To finish a stunning lemon meringue from Checkers’ Bakery.

The Indoor Braai

Yum!

I got to bed after midnight last night – due to having consumed too many cups of strong coffee, all the excitement of the day and blogging till late! However, I finally fell asleep but was wide awake by 5:30 and 6:30 found Earl and me on the beach. I wanted to run while the tide was still low enough not to have too much soft sand. Earl does not do running but enjoyed a brisk walk.

When we returned the Vet Viets Vriende started emerging in stages until all were up and eating and ‘Early’ breakfast by 8 o’clock. They were super appreciative and a pleasure to feed.

We then headed to Cape Agulhas to do the touristy things – like stand at the Southern Most Tip of Africa and climbing to the top of the light house. We created a special seat for our extra passenger.

Princess Kate in her exclusive part of the vehicle

Please note there is controversy as to where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean meet – We Cape Townians sincerely believe it’s at Cape Point. But the purists believe it’s here at Agulhas. The sea is the sea – Man gives the ocean names – so I stick proudly to it being Cape Point – and proudly to the fact that Cape Agulhas is the most southerly point – no argument there!

The Vroeg, Vriendelik, Vet, Viets Vriende at the southern tip of Africa

Die Mees Suidelik Egpaar

We then took a drive to Suiderstrand, had a quick look and history lesson about the wreck and spotted a bird or two.

Rock Kestrel

Then it was back to the lighthouse. I decided not to do the climb for the umpteenth time and Earl quickly went to collect the laundry. The kids, however, enjoyed the experience.

The southern most Lighthouse

VVV at the top of Agulhas Lighthouse

Next we made our way along the dirt road route to Arniston. We handed out binoculars and bored our guests silly by stopping for every little birds. They were too polite to complain though.

Capped Wheatear

Red Bishop

We also detoured to Die Mond but were not allowed to go onto the suspension bridge without paying the entrance fee – silly really we would only have been in the reserve for 10 minutes.

At Arniston we visited the original Fishermen’s village and popped into Kassiesbaai Crafts. Here local crafts are sold from the front room of a private home.

The original Fisherfolk village

It was now lunch time and we tried to get a table at the hotel – no chance but they took our cell number and said they would call us when a table became available. The VVV bought us ice creams and soaked up some sun until the call came through.

It was very busy and they did not bring all the food at the same time – but it was good and reasonably priced. The meals were ordered were calamari, burgers, Gypsy Ham club sandwiches, toasted sandwiches and everyone seemed to enjoy what was presented.

Me Katy Tim (hidden) Nico, Francois, Marianda, Riaan

Katie, Tim, Nico

Our next adventure was to Die Grot – The Cave! It required a short walk from the dunes and then a descent to the beach – a sign warned that the embankment was dangerous and that we should take the steps – so of course the boys went down the embankment. Earl the girls and I were more cautious. The tide was not quite out so we had to negotiate incoming waves and slippery rocks until we entered the first cave and crawled through a low hole into the bigger cave that looked out to the sea. It was awesome. I would love to bring the grandchildren again next week – hopefully when the tide decides to be low at a more reasonable time.

The adventurous boys take the tricky route

The sensible ones take the safe steps

Gingerly negotiating the rocks and surf

Looking at the VVV from the tunnel into the cave toward the sea

Enjoying the cave

The whole gang

An oyster catcher we spotted outside the cave

Nico

Katie

Marianda

Francois

We were pretty whacked and ready to take the trip back to Struisbaai but when we got to the car Tim, Francois and Riaan found some sand surfing boards and dashed up the sand dune like they were doing a 100m flat sprint. Their aim was to ski down but the boards did not work that well!

We stopped at Bredasdorp to pick up supplies and while we prepared dinner the kids went off to the beach for a swim. The girls tried to make a peppermint crisp tart but as I lacked the correct utensils the cream did failed to do what it had to so had to be discarded. Instead they got creative and made us a chocolate mousse/peppermint crisp/tennis biscuit dessert. We named it VVV Pudding.

We enjoyed a dinner of Weber roasted chicken, stuffed butternut, sweet potato and salad followed of course by the VVV pudding.

What a stunning two days we have spent with these 6 fantastic young people. Francois you are an amazing young husband – its great to see how much you love and appreciate your wife – good luck with your future in civil engineering and with your Masters next year. Marianda – Francois is right – you are a wonderful wife – a go for it kind of girl – not many non-cycling wives would have agreed to a holiday of this nature – without fluffy white towels and comfortable beds – you are going to be a stunning teacher – good luck with the rest of your studies and your future career and may all your problems be gorgeous tiny ones like you and your husband. . Nico – the quiet, mysterious, creative one. You have born that aching knee with such fortitude. I’m glad you had a chance to rest it today. Good luck enjoy Greyton and your career in architecture – I would love you to design a home for me! Riaan – My name is Cloete – Riaan Cloete – You are an amazing James Bond – You are the number cruncher with a difference – All the best for your future too! Tim – Marketing Engelsman – what an adventure on a borrowed bike – to undertake all those kilometres – wow – you are super impressive. Good luck to you too with your future studies. Katie – the princess who just take everything in her stride – that smile tells it all – you just love life. What a gem you are! Well done for taking on this amazing challenge and giving it everything you’ve got. The memories will last you a life time! I know you are going to be fabulous in your career – you will be fabulous in whatever you do!

To all of you – Earl and I have so enjoyed the privilege of meeting you and sharing two days of this adventure with you. Sterkte – Go well our new friends.