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Struisbaai – finally settling into our retirement home

We were supposed to move semi-permanently to Struisbaai in March this year but Life happened and we found ourselves on several adventures before we could take the first step.

So this is a catch up of what has been happening since we returned from our Namibian Trip.

On 25 July we came up for our first stint to Struisbaai, dropped in at Toyota Bredasdorp where we traded in my beloved Volkswagen Caravelle and took ownership of a brand new Toyota Avanza.

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I shall miss my bus which has transported family and friends, school-kids and grandkids on many amazing trips in the utmost comfort.  But after 10 years and a Land Rover to take her place we decided to get a smaller run around for Struisbaai and surrounds and leave the Landy for towing boat and caravan.

We’ve learned to cook for two, to not worry about what the rest of the family were doing and to simply enjoy each other’s company. Because we both had kids when we met we’ve never lived alone together and we have not had the luxury of empty nest syndrome either!   It has been blissfully peaceful.

So what do we do all day?  Well – the house needs maintenance and Earl is busy with that.  He is also drawing plans for our extension and once the building begins he will be busy supervising that.

For years I have been up before 6 every morning and thought I would never get out of the habit but now we sleep in until 8 most days and what luxury that is!

My day begins with a 45 minute workout – I have a mini gym in the lounge – amazing what you can do in a small space.  Earl has set up my TRX   I have kettle bells, a skipping rope and a pilates ball and I use the passage for shuttles.   Then after my shower we have a leisurely breakfast.  There is of course the housework, laundry and shopping to do and we can take as long as we like over that.

Many years ago I used to knit, sew and crochet and do crafty things and I am slowly taking it up again.  So I listen to the radio of podcasts and knit!  It doesn’t make for interesting blogging but it’s what I do for many hours!

Struisbaai is a lovely little place and there is the beach and lovely birding drives and walks too too.  We are not bored.

The harbour

The harbour

A gull on the beach

A gull on the beach

A dog made friends with Earl

A dog made friends with Earl

The Pelican Harbour Cafe serves a good breakfast and sitting outside in the winter sun is sooo pleasant

The Pelican Harbour Cafe serves a good breakfast and sitting outside in the winter sun is sooo pleasant

Earl chatting to a local fisherman

Earl chatting to a local fisherman

We have been back to Cape Town a couple of times for a funeral and business appointments but we are now here till  November.

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Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 22

23 June 2015

I am late for school  – again. I rush into the building and race toward where I think my classroom is but I can’t seem to find it. I panic – the girls will be fretting, wondering where I am. They won’t know what to do. Some will be crying –  I dash across courtyard after courtyard searching for a familiar room but mine does not appear and there’s a lion roaring really close by. He’s getting closer – I must find my classroom!

A distant voice yells, “Lion! Lion!  Get up there’s a lion outside.”

I wake up  – it is just the same recurring dream – I am at Gharagab and finally a lion has come calling.

It is 5:15 and it is Earl who alerts me to the lion’s roar. We listen but it does not come again. We check the water hole – no sign of them. Earl gets dressed and sits at the glass door, while I snuggle under the blankets a little longer. When it’s light I get up too. The Schoffls have heard them too and Erich says he heard the first roars far off at 3 earlier this morning. While Earlybird is packing Dawid comes to show him the spoor of two lions going past our cabin – so they were here!

At 7:30 on the dot Earlybird has us in the car and off in search of the cats. We find spoor on the road and just near Dankbaar water hole, Eagle-eye Wendy calls, “what’s that?” and there in the grass sit two beautiful young black-maned lions.

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We are delighted that the lions are still in the area and that we found them!

Eagle Eye Wendy spots something again. “Are those ant hills or animals?” she says.

We scan with our binos and at first see nothing then they materialize – 7 very cute suricate a but quite a distance away. How did she spot them!

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We are delighted with this lovely sighting and continue to enjoy the steenbok that appear quite often, red hartebeest in playful mood and gemsbok getting their morning exercise by racing across the veld.

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It’s a long trip over the desert dunes and much like a rollers coaster ride. We are delighted by the Disco 4’s  performance.

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We stop at all the waterholes but apart from some bird activity there is little to see.

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At Nossob we have brunch at the picnic site.

Upon arrival at Bitterpan we see another CA Land Rover. Another couple arrive just after us – Dave and Jeanette from Hogsback.  The land rover owner introduces himself as Lee and we chat for a whole. Later his wife Shannon joins us. The six of us braai together but Dave and Jeanette decide to do their own.

We have a delightful evening.

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IMG_6945 Me. Earlybird, Erich, Wendy, Lee
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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 13 and Day 14

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

We go out at 6:30 this morning and visit a couple of waterholes.  There is not much except for the usual suspects.  We see one elephant.  It is good, though, to see that there are animals scattered about.  We return at 8:30 for breakfast and then do our own thing for the rest of the day.

Breakfast at Okaukuejo

Breakfast at Okaukuejo

Earl takes some lovely shots of animals at the waterhole.

Lots to see at the waterhole

Lots to see at the waterhole

Keeping an eye on the ladies

Keeping an eye on the ladies

A tawny hoping for a snack?

A tawny hoping for a snack?

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Janet and Stuart arrive and we find their camping site and invite them to join us for a braai in the evening.  We have a great time.

Braai

Monday June15 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Our six days in the park are stunning. We have marvellous encounters with elephant, zebra and giraffe.  We see black rhino at the waterholes and the weather is fabulous.   But hey where the hell are the lions?   Certainly none cross our path.  Okay, so we come to the parks for the birds and enjoy whatever happens to turn up – but this is the first time ever that we’ve visited a major park and not seen cats.  Yes – we  see Cheetah but they are half hidden and boring.   And when you have overseas guests you want to impress them with the king of the African Bush for Goodness sake.  So it was with a slight feeling of disappointment that we exit Okaukuejo Gate for the last  stretch to Anderson Gate and I say, Don’t worry guys – we will probably get lions in Kgalagadi.
Then just minutes from the gate we see a few cars stopped up ahead.  Wendy yells What’s that?

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A lion cub slipping through the bush

Soon we catch sight of 4 lions.  1 mother, 2 small cubs and an older sibling we think.   The Mom and big sister flop down under a tree but the cubs go on a bit further and then flop down in full view.  Oh Joy!   The older one gets up after a while and joins the little ones. We spend 20 minutes watching them get up and wander and return to the comfort of their spot. we reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

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We reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

Goodbye Etosha

Goodbye Etosha

We check into Sun Kaross, Daan Viljoen at 1ish and are assigned chalet 8 and 9.  Great spot but the view is of an empty dam!  Our accommodation is stunning but it is very cold.  Luckily we have down duvets and extra blankets and we put the airocn up to 30.

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We unpack and have a cup of tea and then go on a journey of exploration.  The list of game includes warthog, giraffe, zebra, red hartebeest, eland, jackal, wildebeest and kudu.  Erich is delighted when our first spot is a single wildebeest and red hartebeest together!  We follow a 4×4 trail and find all the species except eland, zebra and jackal.

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Red Hartebeest

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Go Away Bird

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Short-toed Rock Thrush

IMG_5719 IMG_5718 IMG_5708 The braai facilities are great but the chalet is not equipped with crockery and cutlery.  There is a fridge, kettle, glasses and cups and saucers.  Tea and coffee are also provided.
We go to the restaurant and find we are the only chalet dwellers and there is no one else there for dinner.  We order the chef’s curry which is a huge helping and totally delicious.  Erich has Schnitzel, which is okay, if a little dry. The value for money is good.
Nobody wants dessert.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 12

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

By 7:00 a.m. we go off to have our last breakfast at Halali.

Earl forgets to refuel so we can’t take the long route to Okaukuejo.  We stop at a few waterholes but as we get nearer and nearer to Okaukeujo it became drier and drier.

Still we enjoy what we see, the highlight being a honey badger in its natural habitat and not scrounging in dustbins for tourists’ left-overs.

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A nice mix of creatures

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He is too quick for a good photograph

He is too quick for a good photograph

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Honey Badgers are tenacious little creatures with little fear. They will stand up to lion should there be a confrontation. Their hide is tough and unpalatable to most predators.

We check in at reception at 9:00 but of course our rooms are not ready.  However, we get our numbers and take a look at what facilities they have to offer. We are pleased to see there is a braai.    So before going for a drive we shop for supplies.   Luckily this shop is better stocked than the previous two camps.  We get fresh tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, potatoes and onions. The meat on offer is ‘game’ but no mention of which animal.   It looks good so we buy fillets and steaks and some sausage.   We also indulge in an ice-cream treat, stow the goodies in the car fridge and set off for a our drive.

Okaukuejo

Okaukuejo

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Male kudu with his females

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Shy Steenbok

This jackal was hiding away to take a nap

This jackal was hiding away to take a nap

We return at 12:00 but the rooms will not be ready till 14:00  So we have a drink next to the pool.  Erich and Earl climb the tower and then come back to tell us that they’ve spotted elephants and would we like to go for a short drive to find them. Of course we do – and we find them.

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They are heading toward the camp waterhole and so we race back and sit there and wait.  A springbok stands stock still staring into the distance and Wendy says, – I think he senses the ellies.  Sure enough they appear at that moment, come down to drink and play and it is fun to watch.

Here comes the matriach

Here comes the matriarch

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We then check into our chalets

For the record:   Bush chalets are either two bedroom (4 beds) and one bathroom or one bedroom (two beds) one bathroom at Etosha.  Halali and Okaukuejo have braai facilities.  Halali provides crockery and cutlery – Okaukuejo does not.  There is no stove or hot plate.  There is a fridge in each unit. There is a kitchen with sink, kettle, cups and saucers and tea, coffee, sugar provided.  Work space is limited.  You need to bring your own pots, pans, chopping boards, braai kit etc.

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Comfortable bedroom

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Basic Bathroom

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Small open plan kitchen/sitting room

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Basically equipped with fridge and sink

While I am waiting to get my keys from reception there is a man ahead of me in the queue.  He asks if there is DSTV.   “No sir, – no wifi – no TV – We have a waterhole with live animals”

“Oh no – I want to watch the rugby”

“The springboks are here,” I joke.

He is not amused.

We relax for the rest of the afternoon visiting the pool and the water hole and enjoy a great braai for supper.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 9

Wednesday 10 June 2015 – Namutoni

We are second car out of the gate after handing in our laundry at reception on 6:10 am.   The gate is meant to open at 6:25. It is light and Earl persuades the guys to open a tad earlier so were on the road by 6:15.

Giraffe are the order of the day today and we see them everywhere.  They are my favourite animal as to me they are a true iconic African creature.  There is nothing nicer than seeing a landscape dotted with tall giraffe.

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe.  I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

Sunrise

Sunrise

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe.  I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

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Of course Earl and I stop to see every bird and this confuses our guests.  “I can’t understand it,”says Erich “You stop for a tiny little bird but drive straight past a Wildebeest.”  After that we stop for every impala, springbok, ostrich and wildebeest and try to see the park through the eyes of a novice to the wilds of Africa!

Stopping for a wildebeest

Stopping for a wildebeest

A beautiful male ostrich

A beautiful male ostrich

A friendly jackal

A friendly jackal

Steenbok

and a cute Steenbok

We continue and stop off at waterholes and have some interesting sightings.

An immature Gabar Goshawk

An immature Gabar Goshawk

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African Harrier Hawk

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We return to camp just after 8 for breakfast and do not go out again until after lunch at 1:00 pm.

Earl and Erich nap for a while.  Wendy goes to buy gifts at the curio shop, I go to the waterhole and walk around camp but I’m disappointed at the lack of birdlife.  Then Wendy and I join up and spend some time at the pool.  It is hot but the water is freezing.  Wendy and I chat on our lounges and then she says, “That water looks so inviting. I think we should at least attempt a swim.”  “Is that a challenge?” I ask  She smiles.  I get up and made my way to the shallow end and she follows.   I can’t believe how cold it is but Wendy goes down one step at a time and I can’t let her outdo me.  Soon we both plunge in and I gasp and yell at the chill!  We swim two lengths and then get out.  It is very invigorating but how crazy are we!  A young German couple look at us in disbelief – Wendy pipes – When you get older you tend to do crazy things!

E came along and I walk up to give him a wet hug but he yells and won’t let me near. I plunge back into the pool and he takes a photograph!

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Me in the freezing pool

Drying off in the hot sun

Drying off in the hot sun

Our afternoon drive is just as exciting.  As we make our way to the Kalkheuwel water hole, I shriek when an elephant suddenly appears on the road in front of us.  He raises his trunk, trumpets loudly and charges toward us.

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Earl goes  into full speed reverse. He keeps his cool and as he says – Stop being naughty – to an elephant who clearly can’t hear him.  But he must get a mental message because with one last trumpet he charges into the bush.   “I think I might need a clean pair of underpants,” Erich declares.  Phew – we all laugh nervously.  Our adrenalin rush for the day.

Some creatures we see before we return

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swallowtailed bee-eater

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Female weaver

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Lilac-breasted roller

018 Kori Bustard drinking

Kori Bustard drinking

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We visit the waterhole when we return but there is not much happening so we have sundowners and then go to dinner – another buffet.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 6

Sunday 7 June 2015 Sossusvlei to Windhoek

We are up and ready to for breakfast at 6:30 sharp, enjoy a leisurely breakfast, take photos of a hot air balloon over the mountains, check out and set off for Windhoek.

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The highlight is travelling over the Spreetshoogte Pass.  Meaning: Spreeth’s Peak Pass. It connects the Namib Dessert with the Khomas Highland by traversing the Great Escarpment and is the steepest pass in Namibia.

The pass was erected during World War II by farmer Nicolaas Spreeth, after whom it is named. He owned the farm Ubib just at the foot of the escarpment. Whenever goods were delivered to his farm they would be dropped at a bus stop at farm Namibgrens (English: Namib border) on top of the mountain. To gather them the choice was to either travel via Remhoogte Pass approximately 30 kilometres (19 mi) southwards, or to trek uphill along existing Zebra paths.

Spreeth decided to do the latter, fortifying the path with quartzite rocks whenever he undertook the journey. Soon the bright white rocks formed a line that could be spotted from a distance. Spreeth even catered for motor vehicles (not very strong at that time), placing long, flat patches of road ahead of every steep ascent. He built the pass literally with his own hands. To flatten obstacles he used dynamite.

Here we go

Here we go

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Our hostess is not home when we arrive at Anjo Villa Guest House so we duck to the local supermarket café and have a coffee before checking in.

What a charming place it is.  After unpacking we sit under the trees and have a glass of wine and a chat, download emails using the free wi-fi and at 4:30 make our way into Windhoek.  As advised by Anthea we pop into Joe’s Beerhouse for a drink but are so fascinated by the place we decide to stay for dinner.  It is a series of outdoor enclosures and spaces filled with all sorts of memorabilia and relics of the past and present. Basically it’s junk made to look interesting. Possibly each piece has a history and a story behind it. We wander about enjoying the exhibition and then sit at a table next to a roaring fire in the middle of the boma where we eat. Wendy and I enjoy Kessler and sauerkraut, Earl has lamb shank and Erich eisbein.  They both have  to get doggy bags as the portions are so huge.

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After that we head to the casino, have a cup of tea and lose some money before coming back for an early night.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 5

Saturday 6 June 2015 Sossusvlei

Our wake-up call is a knock on the door at 4:30 am.   It is a tad chilly and we all meet wrapped up in fleeces and warm jackets.   It is an hour’s drive to the sunrise spot.  We take photos of the rising sun before climbing a high dune.

Dune Sunrise

Dune Sunrise

The name, Sossusvlei, comes from two languages – Sossus is the Nama word meaning No Return – or – Dead End.  Vlei is the Afrikaans word for marsh or pan.  The actual Sossusvlei is a salt and clay pan which fills with water on the rare occasion that it rains. There is no water in it when we visit. The name “Sossusvlei” also refers to the surrounding area (including other neighbouring vleis such as Deadvlei and other high dunes), which is one of the major visitor attractions of Namibia. The area has many high sand dunes of a vivid pinkish/orangish/reddish colour caused by the high content of iron in the sand and the consequent oxidation processes.  The older the dune, the redder the colour.  Big Daddy is 380m high and this is the one we climb!

Big Daddy

Big Daddy

Erich at the top

Erich at the top

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The dry pans look white because of the high salt content

Wendy does well but has a height phobia so decides to go back down after a while.  As we climb it seems to get steeper and steeper with each footfall!   There are a number of other climbers, some in groups, some individual.  We have a photographic group in front of us so they keep stopping to take interesting and creative photographs giving us an excuse to rest frequently!   We are supposed to descend at a certain point and go down to Deadvlei but I turn back and go the way I came meeting Sammy on his way up and he tells me to return so as to get to Deadvlei with him. Omiword – another upward climb before I can descend!   I am feeling a bit shaky – from low blood pressure or altitude intolerance – or perhaps I’m just not fit enough for dune climbing!

The descent is lovely.  We make our way to Deadvlei where the trees have been dead for almost a thousand years.  There is underground water so there is a grove of green trees there too.   We wonder around and take creative photos and then make our way back to the vehicle.

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Looking across to one of the dunes

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A short drive to Sossusvlei and we disembark once again where we find a beautifully laid breakfast table set up by Sammy who then presents us with cereal, fruit salad, yoghurt, cold meats, boiled eggs and fresh bread.  Wow.  The Cape Sparrows think it was for them and twitter away in the trees until we give in and feed them a few crumbs.

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Our return trip takes us past all the amazing dunes and we marvel at the shapes and contrasting colours.  We stop to photograph Dune 45 so named because it is 45 km from Sossus Dune Lodge.

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By now it is hot and we all take off the outer layers.  Back at the lodge I have a shower and change into shorts.

I put on cargo pants and take a fleece to fly over the dunes in the afternoon.  We have to go to another lodge just outside the park to get our over-dune flight.  We pay our fare, receive proper tickets and fill in an indemnity form at the Adventure Activity desk and then are taken to the airfield by one of the staff who also explains where we would go and what signals the pilot would give to indicate what he sees below. Unfortunately the plane is not equipped with earphones!   Loubser is our pilot and we are his  fifth trip of the day.    I am feeling only a tad nervous having recently been up in a light aircraft with Abri and survived!  This plane is a little bigger but not as comfortable as Abri’s.   But I can open a tiny square in my window to take photographs which makes a big difference.   I will let the photos tell the story.

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Sossus Dune Lodge from the air

The Dunes

The Dunes

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Wave after wave of them

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Old Mining Settlement

Old Mining Settlement

The dunes stretch all the way to the sea

The dunes stretch all the way to the sea

The Wreck

The Wreck

Seal Colony

Seal Colony

Dinner this evening is kudu steak for me and Earl and pork for the Schoffls.   After our long and exciting day we are in bed by 8 o’clock.

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari Day 4

Friday 5 June 2015 – Sossus Dune Lodge

We wake at 6 and Earl and I watch the second half of another movie – The Journey of Charley and Hooch  – or some such name – an Australian movie starring Paul Hogan.

We then join Erich and Wendy for breakfast which is really good – continental cheeses and cold meats, cereals and yogurt and eggs to order.

Our trip to Sossuvlei is interesting.  We enjoy the changing scenery and arrive at Sossus Dune Lodge at 12 noon.

IMG_3507Earl goes into frantic mode because he can’t see the sign to the lodge.  I have to calm him down to a panic before he realises that we are right there.  We go through the gate, give our details and then go to the reserve reception to pay the  conservation fee.

It is still another 2km to the lodge and when we arrive we see some distant huts.

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Earl once again has a nervous breakdown at the thought of having to drag luggage a fair distance to the door.  However, we are ushered into an undercover parking and met by an open land rover and told, “We will take you and your luggage from here.”

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We are duly delivered to the lodge reception  and I go ahead to book in.  Outside reception a charming and cheerful Herbert greets me and asks me to wait just a few minutes.  Earl and the others arrive and my stressed out hubby immediately attacks me – Why haven’t you checked in? – I have to have a few firm words with him to calm down and wait to do as he is told.  He decides that to cross me further will not be in his best interests and nervously paces until Herbert ushers us into reception and brings refreshing glasses of litchi juice for each of us.  We fill in the visitors book and he then eloquently explains what is on offer at Sossus Dune Lodge.  He stares straight at Earl and says – Do not worry about your luggage, sir – it will be delivered to your cabin –  so Earl is able to breathe again.  He gives us the details of where we will be lodged, what trips we can book and what and when meals will be served.   And so within the first half hour of our arrival a sunset drive, sunrise drive and air flip over the dunes is organised!    Tea and coffee is free unless it’s cappuccino, complementary water is in our fridges, breakfast will be served at the sunrise drive venue and snacks will be freely available on the sunset drive too!

We have cabin 13 and 14 right in front of the waterhole and first off we find gemsbok drinking and later springbok and warthog appear.

Very comfy beds

Very comfy beds

Enormous bathroom

Enormous bathroom

The waterhole is right in front of our chalet

The waterhole is right in front of our chalet

We meet our guide, Sammy, at quarter past four and along with four British tourists climb into a really nice carriage which is glassed in so that we do not get too cold!   It is warm at first and we drive with the windows down.  Sammy is an excellent guide and stops to show us oryx and gives information about the bachelor herds and age of the buck we see.  Because we are with him we can go to areas that self-drive cars may not.   We stop at Elim dune first and find a fallen down sociable weaver nest.  The birds are there too.

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Community nest built by the industrious socialbe weavers.

Gemsbok (oryx) blending into the dune

Gemsbok (oryx) blending into the dune

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At our sunset spot  Sammy sets up a table with snacks and drinks. We watch beautiful sunset while sipping our sundowners.

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Wendy ad Earl

Wendy ad Earl

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It is dark on our return trip and we are most grateful for the glassed in doors.

Dinner at the lodge is a set menu with a choice of chicken or beef.  We skip the soup starter and all chose the Hawaiian Chicken served with pasta.  It is delicious.

Dinner at Sossus Dune Lodge

Dinner at Sossus Dune Lodge

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Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 2 and Day 3

Wednesday 3 June 2015  Ai Ais

We are all in the pool by  quarter to 8 this morning.   Erich and Wendy are earlier than we are.  They’ve had tea on their stoop and had watched the sun rise!  The water is divinely warm.  My eyes are itchy from allergies and I am sure the water is making them feel better or is it a placebo effect?  Whatever, I feel great relaxing in these soothing waters.

After our swim we go off  to breakfast and sit chatting till 10.   Then we go  for a walk around the lodge, admire the scenery and find some birds.

At 1 Earl and I go for an hour-long full body massage which is divine.  Erich and Wendy each had half-hour back massages.   Afterwards we have a long afternoon nap.  When we wake up we go for a lovely, long swim in the hot baths.  I stay in a lot longer than Earl and chat to a Grade 11 girl who had just completed the 6-day hike of the Fish River Canyon.  She tells me it was amazing but she is exhausted and every muscle is aching.

Earl comes to call me.  Stuart and Janet have arrived. We knew they were doing a similar trip to ours at the same time and had planned to meet them in Etosha. They aren’t meant to be here but had started off from Cape Town later than planned so decided to spend the night at Ai Ais. They join us for drinks and then dinner and it is a super evening.

Relaxing in the pool

Relaxing in the pool

Ai Ais

Ai Ais

Outdoor pool

Outdoor pool – Hot but the air is cold!

Baboons are a problem

Baboons are a problem

Mountain Chat

Mountain Chat

Swallow-tailed bee-eater

Swallow-tailed bee-eater

Dinner

Dinner – Earl, Stuart, Janet, Wendy

Thursday 4 June 2015 Ai Ais to Africa Sa fari Lodge

We wake to a rainy and cold day!  This is not meant to happen in the month of June!   After showering and packing we go to meet the others for breakfast at 7:00 am.   After breakfast we all head to the Canyon Lookout. We have to pay R60 per person to drive to the lookout point but it is worth it. It’s just a pity that the weather is not clear. Still we get excellent views of the canyon and don’t mind too much about getting wet.  Earl and I were here 20 years ago in brilliant sunshine and no fences.   It is a little different today but the views are the same.

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We then bid farewell to Janet and Stuart who head to Luderitz while we make our way to Mariental where we will spend the night at Africa Safari Lodge.  The weather improves and there is no rain when we arrive at Keetmanshoop.  We stop at the Spur for lunch and I buy a Namibian Sim Card at the local phone shop. My package is amazing – I pay in R295 in cash and dial in for whatever I need for a week.  Each week I renew my contract until my balance runs out.  I get Facebook, the internet, Whatsap and a number of free calls.  whenever I return to Namibia I use the same sim card and top up my balance. I do not have to RICA!

We arrive at Africa Safari Lodge at 3:00 p.m. It is lovely.  We have ‘tea’ on the stoop and then an afternoon nap.

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When we wake up it is dark and we find a rhinoceros on our front lawn!

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Dinner is superb.  We start with Sweet Chilli Calamari and Greek salad and then have gourmet Oryx steaks with mushroom sauce and mash potato.  To die for!  Dessert is Apple crumble and ice cream.

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Our room was is really comfortable. The bed is made from a concrete slap on which is a very comfortable  mattress with down duvet.   There is a television and we watch a skop, skiet and donner movie before dropping off to sleep.

2

Ai Ais, Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 1

A year ago our Australian friends, Erich and Wendy asked my advice on what to do and where to go in Namibia, a place they have wanted to visit for many years. Earl and I decided that we wouldn’t mind another trip to this amazing country so we decided to go ourselves and asked them to tag along.   Our itinerary of 26 days included Ai Ais, Africa Safari Lodge near Mariental, Sossusvlei, Windhoek, The Waterberg Plateau, Etosha National Park and then on our way home we spent 9 days in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

We are now back and what an adventure it has been. I am in the process of sorting out the hundreds of photographs and will try to publish one episode per day but forgive me if I fall behind 🙂  Some of the trivia and information mentioned in my posts are taken from park pamphlets, brochures, books on the area and Wikipedia.

2 June 2015 – Cape Town to Ai Ai

Finally this day has arrived. I love the excitement of the pre-dawn start to a long journey. I settle down in my seat – pushed far forward so Erich has space for his long legs behind me.  I scribble down our departure time on my pre-prepared chart – 4:30 am – The kilometerage registers 119632. What will it be when we return?  I know my neat chart with its recordings of costs and stops will look the worse for wear when we return too! Cape Town is cold and rainy and we look forward to warm, dry weather and the healing waters of the Ai Ais hot springs.   Perish the thought – the cold and rain continues.  Our first stop is a freezing Klawer and our hot Wimpy breakfast and coffee is sooo welcome.   It is strange to see pelting rain soaking into the dry Karoo earth.   The weather only improved around Springbok.

Earl is not at his best at border crossing so I make sure that all the documentation is ready and hand my list of items to be taken across the border to the grim-faced officer at Vioelsdrift.  Within minutes he has dismissed most of them as unnecessary and pins my list to the form he has filled in – no problem!  The whole procedure is over in 40 minutes and by 2 pm we are in Namibia!

It is interesting to see wine farming taking place on the banks of the Orange River.  Aussenkehr is such a farm. It is planned to develop Aussenkehr into a town. 6,000 erven have been surveyed and water and sewerage systems have been built.There is less than 50 millimetres  average annual rainfall but the farm includes 15 kilometres of riverfront and has a government-approved quota to draw water for irrigation from the Orange River.

Vineyards of Aussenkehr

Vineyards of Aussenkehr

Straw houses we passed on the way

Straw houses we passed – Aussenkehr

We bought wine and beers from the Aussenkehr Spar - which is in the middle of nowhere

We bought wine and beers from the Aussenkehr Spar – which is in the middle of nowhere and serves the farming community and straw house dwellers.

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The road we travel

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Moonscape

We arrive at Ai Ais at 3 pm Namibian time, taking the new dirt road which is a tad quicker.   The weather is overcast and there are a few drops of rain and it is really cold.

The local Nama people call the springs Ai-Ais which means  ‘burning water’. This lovely natural hot-spring is situated at the southern end of The Fish River Canyon, in the Karas Region of southern Namibia. It is part of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.

We have room A3 and A4 which lead onto the indoor pool area.   We have a swim and then a rest before going for drinks and then to supper at the restaurant.  We all have eland steaks which are rather nice.  They are served with rosti, butternut and green beans.  Then its off to our comfortable beds decked with down duvets – so welcome after a hard day’s travelling.

The indoor pools

The indoor pools

Dinner

Dinner

The restaurant

The restaurant

0

The Princess and The Elephants

Wednesday 13 May 2015

I was up early and showered before Earl woke up.   The Princess messaged to say her flight was delayed.  I rang her and she told me that she’d seen Sharon and Tony at the airport – they were on their way to Johannesburg to get their connecting flight to Singapore then Viet Nam.  I rang Sharon to say good-bye!  We won’t see each other till July as she only gets back after we leave for Namibia.  We’ll both be in Nam but on different continents.

After a delicious breakfast of pork sausage, bacon, eggs, tomato and mushrooms we set off to the airport arriving at 8:45 as we expected Laurie at 9:30.   It was very foggy so we thought this was the reason for the delay.  No flights were landing or taking off and we began to worry when we heard that a flight from Johannesburg  had been diverted to East London.  This announcement kept coming about other flights too and finally we heard that The Princess was diverted to George.  Well we spent three hours at the airport as the flights only came in when the mist cleared.  The Princess finally arrived at 11:40.   I waited in the airport while Earl drove out so as to avoid the hefty parking costs.   In no time we had her packed into the car and were off to Addo Elephant Park!

The Princess only wanted to come to Addo to see elephants.  She is not a natural Nature Girl.  So I was a little nervous that there wouldn’t be much to see and she would get bored of our constantly stopping to look at birds!  Well the park was beautiful.   It was lush and green and we entered at the bottom gate and drove up from the South to the main camp.  Wow – so different to our last trip when there were no animals at all in this new section. Today we saw just about everything.  Warthogs were the first creatures spotted and then there were hundreds.  We found the animals everywhere in large numbers and many species together.   The princess was amused – but where were the elephants.  Tomorrow – we said – you have to go to the waterholes at midday and then you’ll see the elephants.  The words were no sooner cold on our lips when a huge bull elephant appeared on the side of the road.  Yay!  But that’s not all – more materialised and we saw many along the way.   Once in the south we went to a couple of the waterholes and found more elephants and buffalo too.  We can go home now – we’ve achieved our goal!

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The Common Ostrich looking splendid

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The striped ones were plentiful – note the sea in the background – the park includes the Big 7 – Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Elephant, Buffalo, Southern Right Whale and Great White Shark

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The Princess knew what this was – Yellow Canary

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How cute is this

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A special appearance for Her Highness

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Which made her smile

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The pigs made her laugh

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The female elephants in Addo have no tusks – due to interbreeding. However, new stock have been introduced and some new generation females are now getting tusks.

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Male and Female Kudu with pig in the background

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He is very curious about the beautiful princess

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Looking good

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Father and Mother Shelduck

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Mr Shelduck

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Mrs Shelduck

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Ellies at the waterhole

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Enjoying a refreshing drink,

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Buffalo at dusk

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Spoonbill

We arrived at Main Camp at quarter to 4, checked in, bought a few things from the shop and then went to our forest hut number 4.  It’s a lovely 4 bedded hut nestled in the bush with a deck and braai plekkie.  It has its own bathroom, is fully equipped but we have to use the communal kitchen.  The Princess has to share her sleeping space with her parents but she has the extra bed on which to spread out her stuff!

We sat out on the deck until supper time when it became a bit too cold so we ate at the table inside.

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Riding a Rhino at Bekkersfontein Game Farm

Sunday 11 May 2015

The kids woke us at 7:30 ish and then we got up and had breakfast.  We’d packed up the night before and we were on the road by 8:45.  We got a little lost after Queenstown but realised our mistake and went back, took the Takastad turn and followed Nicoline’s map until we reached Bekkersfontein.  It was a bit chilly but we were warmly dressed.   We unpacked then relaxed for the rest of the day.  The stone cottage is lovely.  It is solar powered most of the time but the generator is put on in the evenings.  However, the lights are always very weak.

We braaied for supper and then Boudewyn came home.  He’d been in Hogsback.  We invited him to eat with us but he’d had a big lunch in Hogsback.  He is very busy with the farm as he is only here when on leave from the oil rig – one month on one month off or something like that.

Monday 12 May 2015

We got up and went for a drive around the farm before breakfast.   It was lovely.  We saw lots of different animals and some birds.

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Sable Antelope

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Grey Heron

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Blesbok

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Hoopoe

Back at the cottage we found that it was being serviced by a maid! This we did not expect as we are not paying guests.   We cooked breakfast and then went for a walk trying to find the river route.   We found a few nyala.   When we returned I had a mid-morning nap!

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Female Nyala and baby

Boudewyn came to collect us in the afternoon and took us for a ride on the Rhino.  I sat up front with him and Earl stood on the back holding on for dear life.  It was exhilarating.   If I thought Abri’s cowboy driving on the Namibian farm was terrifying I still had to experience this!  It’s an open vehicle with strict safety rules nailed to the dashboard which nobody obeys!   I rode minus seat belt or helmet and there were no safety doors either!  I read the rules and shivered. I just made sure to keep my limbs inside the vehicle! But I needn’t have worried we didn’t turn over once.

We did, however, see loads of game.   We stopped to go into blinds and Boudewyn kept a running commentary of what the farm was all about.

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Beautiful and gentle waterbuck

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Stripy

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The Earl waiting on the Rhino

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The dogs enjoy every second

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Me in the front seat

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The ride up the mountain over roads littered with rocks and deep potholes was like riding in a moon buggy as the rhino is designed for just such off-road conditions.

Thank Goodness we’d put on an extra jacket for the ride as by the time we came down from the mountain it was pretty cold. Yet Boudewyn was dressed in shorts a shirt and a padded waste coat.  “ Do you ever wear a jacket?” I asked. “This is my jacket,” he grinned patting his waste coat.

We braaied again for supper and Boudewyn went off to do all sorts of chores as he is leaving for the oil rig tomorrow – a very long flight awaits him!

Thanks Nicoline for organising this amazing stay with your brother.  Thanks Boudewyn for making it so memorable.

Tuesday 12 May 2015

We left after breakfast and had a pleasant drive to Port Elizabeth.  Before checking into our B&B we stopped for lunch and then went shopping at Woolworths.

Our B&B Almani is lovely.  Our double room has tea and coffee making facilities, a fridge and a microwave oven.  Everything is immaculate.  There is a television and an enormous double bed. The en-suite has a bath and separate shower.   The rooms open onto an enclosed stoop which opens onto the pool area of the lush garden.   The service is excellent and friendly.

There was load shedding from 3:30 to 6:30 today. Earl had a nap while I caught up on my diary and blogging and when the battery died I read my book!

We went to Ocean Basket for dinner and it was great! The restaurant is a little noisy but it is spacious and clean and the service is good.   Our food was excellent.  I had grilled calamari and stir fried vegetables. Earl had a seafood platter for one with stir fried vegetables. Of course he couldn’t eat it all – fish, calamari, mussels and prawns!

We did not have dessert and went home to make tea.  We were short of Rooibos tea so I went to “Die Voorkamer”to ask for more.  The daughter of the house was there and called to her mom that we needed tea bags. “Is dit die mense in Kamer 3 ?”  she called back.  “Nee – dis die pretty auntie” came to reply.  I didn’t know whether to be flattered at being called pretty or insulted at being called aunty!  Anyway she brought the teabags to our room and all was well!