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Fortune and Misfortune – A Fortuner Adventure – Day 7

3 July 2012

It was freezing and still dark when I woke up. Earl was asleep – thank Goodness as he had been quite restless in the night and I had been up giving him Disprin to bring down his fever.   I pulled on some warm clothes, gloves and scarf and went out onto the deck.  There were Gemsbok around the waterhole but it was still too dark to take photos.  But when the sun rose I couldn’t resist taking a few shots.

Sunrise at Gharagab

To add to our problems, I found that water was leaking from the gas water heater.   I reported it to Eric and he promised to look into it.  This he did and said that he would have to order a new heater.   In the meantime I placed a bucket under it to collect the many drips.   During the day it had to be emptied a few times.   He could not turn the water off as that would affect all four huts.

When Peter and Heather get up we decide to cook our our breakfast in our own kitchens.  Earl requested scrambled eggs and he wanted to watch me make it – but he fell asleep during the process and I had to wake him up to eat it.   He had the grace to say, “Thank you – this is delicious.”  Yes – I know –  he was really sick!   I was seeing to his needs when Heather called on the walkie-talkie – “Helen – no joke – lion at the waterhole.” It was 9:30 a.m.   I asked Earl if he would like me to help him to the deck so he could take a look. “Show me the photograph,” was his weak reply.

First Lion

Before we arrived at Gharagab, Peter had said, “Let’s agree not to joke about lions as the chances are we will be seeing plenty of them!”  He was on the deck when the first lion appeared and called to Heather who said, “You’re joking!”   But no – we had agreed – no joking about lions!

Along comes number 2

Close brothers

And here comes number 3

After they’ve quenched their thirst the brothers entertain us.Something in this tree smelt good.  They played around it for some time then walked off to a more distant one where they lay flopped down for some time before getting up and moving off.   It was an amazing encounter which had us on a high for hours.

We spent the rest of the day observing the birdlife, walking around close to the huts, visiting the viewing deck and just waiting for the animals to come to us.  No driving around – no stress.  It’s the first time we’ve done Wilderness camps and it certainly won’t be the last.  The only trouble is that they get booked up very quickly and you have to make sure you get your reservation in early.

Juvenile sociable weaver

Lots of striped mice were about

It was great to get this Ashy Tit 

Heather’s wish to see Brown Hyena was granted several times.   Sometimes a brownie would be accompanied by a jackal.  The jackal appeared friendlier toward the hyena and one even licked his friend.  But the hyena’s response was not as affectionate and he sent the jackal packing.

Lunch time visitor

Another one comes down later in the day

In the company of a jackal

Jackal decides to keep his distance

The weather remained cool all day which we all agreed was better than the heat we’d been having during the day up until then.   How idylic it was to spend an entire day reading, chatting and watching wild life come to the waterhole.  The walkie talkies were a blessing, keeping me in close touch with the invalid.   He did not eat his supper last night but managed to eat some of it at lunch time.  There was a bit of a wind blowing so we decided not to braai. We pan fried ostrich steaks and served them with sousboontjies, avo and cooked carrots.  Earl thought he was hungry but could not eat. I managed to get him to take a few spoons of left over spaghetti bolognaise.

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Fortune and Misfortune – A Fortuner Adventure – Day 4

30 June 2012

Earl did not have a good night and in this morning decided to stay in bed, rest and drink only water to try and cleanse his system and get rid of his aches and pains.   This sounded like a good plan to me.   I was convinced that the stress of buying a new car and getting organised for a trip away had taken its toll.   “No problem,” I said.  “We will bird in the camp and have a chill day.”  “No – you must take Heather and Peter on a game drive.”  “I’m not going to drive the new car.”  “Of course you are.  It’s an easy car to drive.”

Now I knew he had to be sick!  He never lets me drive!  I had tried to rouse Heather and Peter at 6 to tell them not to get up but there was no reply from their hut and we had not yet switched on our walkie talkies.   At 7:30 I went over again and they had just arisen.  Peter said he had set the alarm for 7:30 instead of 6:30. So it all worked out for the best.   We decided to make a slow start to the day and ended up leaving after 10 o’clock for a game drive.

I went to the shop to get more mineral water and a pair of warm gloves and found this ground scraper thrush outside our bungalow.

Ground Scraper Thrush

We decided to go on a short drive and then return to bird around the rest camp.   The birding was good. First up we took photos of sociable weavers outside their condominium.  Imagine these tiny, community birds building these huge natural blocks of flats.  No human can create anything near as good.   These nests are cleverly built and their owners are careful to watch out for snakes who might try to enter then to steal their eggs or chicks.  Sometimes they share their residence with pygmy falcons.

Scaly Feathered finch chatting beneath the Sociable Weavers Nests

It was good to find this pretty Capped Wheatear

Secretary Birds were seen frequently – and here is one with its crest up

Secretary Bird

A young pale chanting goshawk modelled nicely for us.

Juvenile Pale Chanting Goshawk

The great thing about Kgalagadi is seeing so many raptors.  This tawny posed in good light.

Tawny Eagle

We saw lots of white-backed vultures but the other species were conspicuous by their absence.

White-backed Vulture

Dalkeith waterhole was once again productive and we enjoyed watching the birds flocking down to drink.

Red-headed Finch

On our drive we saw the usual gemsbok, wildebeest, springbok and jackal but the cats were elusive.   We got back to camp at about 3.   Earl had slept most of the day and had made himself a cup of soup.  We had a rest and then went for a walk around the camp.  There were lots of yellow mongoose and ground squirrels – the holes they make can be quite hazardous if you don’t look where you are going.

Yellow mongoose

Familiar Chat

Earl did not have a temperature but was really feeling ill.   I cooked supper and gave him his in bed and hoped that the next day would see him feeling better.  But this is where misfortune began.