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Fortune and Misfortune – A Fortuner Adventure – Day 7

3 July 2012

It was freezing and still dark when I woke up. Earl was asleep – thank Goodness as he had been quite restless in the night and I had been up giving him Disprin to bring down his fever.   I pulled on some warm clothes, gloves and scarf and went out onto the deck.  There were Gemsbok around the waterhole but it was still too dark to take photos.  But when the sun rose I couldn’t resist taking a few shots.

Sunrise at Gharagab

To add to our problems, I found that water was leaking from the gas water heater.   I reported it to Eric and he promised to look into it.  This he did and said that he would have to order a new heater.   In the meantime I placed a bucket under it to collect the many drips.   During the day it had to be emptied a few times.   He could not turn the water off as that would affect all four huts.

When Peter and Heather get up we decide to cook our our breakfast in our own kitchens.  Earl requested scrambled eggs and he wanted to watch me make it – but he fell asleep during the process and I had to wake him up to eat it.   He had the grace to say, “Thank you – this is delicious.”  Yes – I know –  he was really sick!   I was seeing to his needs when Heather called on the walkie-talkie – “Helen – no joke – lion at the waterhole.” It was 9:30 a.m.   I asked Earl if he would like me to help him to the deck so he could take a look. “Show me the photograph,” was his weak reply.

First Lion

Before we arrived at Gharagab, Peter had said, “Let’s agree not to joke about lions as the chances are we will be seeing plenty of them!”  He was on the deck when the first lion appeared and called to Heather who said, “You’re joking!”   But no – we had agreed – no joking about lions!

Along comes number 2

Close brothers

And here comes number 3

After they’ve quenched their thirst the brothers entertain us.Something in this tree smelt good.  They played around it for some time then walked off to a more distant one where they lay flopped down for some time before getting up and moving off.   It was an amazing encounter which had us on a high for hours.

We spent the rest of the day observing the birdlife, walking around close to the huts, visiting the viewing deck and just waiting for the animals to come to us.  No driving around – no stress.  It’s the first time we’ve done Wilderness camps and it certainly won’t be the last.  The only trouble is that they get booked up very quickly and you have to make sure you get your reservation in early.

Juvenile sociable weaver

Lots of striped mice were about

It was great to get this Ashy Tit 

Heather’s wish to see Brown Hyena was granted several times.   Sometimes a brownie would be accompanied by a jackal.  The jackal appeared friendlier toward the hyena and one even licked his friend.  But the hyena’s response was not as affectionate and he sent the jackal packing.

Lunch time visitor

Another one comes down later in the day

In the company of a jackal

Jackal decides to keep his distance

The weather remained cool all day which we all agreed was better than the heat we’d been having during the day up until then.   How idylic it was to spend an entire day reading, chatting and watching wild life come to the waterhole.  The walkie talkies were a blessing, keeping me in close touch with the invalid.   He did not eat his supper last night but managed to eat some of it at lunch time.  There was a bit of a wind blowing so we decided not to braai. We pan fried ostrich steaks and served them with sousboontjies, avo and cooked carrots.  Earl thought he was hungry but could not eat. I managed to get him to take a few spoons of left over spaghetti bolognaise.

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Fortune and Misfortune – A Fortuner Adventure – Day 5

1 July 2012

Earl was still not feeling good this morning.   He did not have a temperature but he complained that his body was aching.  It sounded like a dose of influenza was on the way!   I left him in bed while we got up and packed and in spite of his ails he insisted on driving.

We were enjoying the early morning drive, snug and warm in our vehicle, no cars in sight and just the odd springbok and gemsbok about, when just up ahead we saw a car stopped and wondered what he had seen.  We soon found out.  Right in front of him, on the road was a young male lion.   Eyes forward we got our cameras ready.   We were thrilled to be only one of two cars and did not have to fight for position.  Suddenly someone in the car ahead gesticulated to us and we looked around to see a lioness in the distance.  She was slowly making her way toward us and we didn’t know where to look – at the lioness or the lion who was really close.  I insisted that we wait for the lioness to get closer.  “She’s going to join her husband,” I said.  And he did keep looking behind him to monitor her progress.   Of course, I was right and eventually we were rewarded when she came up right next to the car.

Lioness

After snapping many photographs we slowly overtook the car in front  of us and past the male so we could turn around to get more than his back view.

Looking for his wife

Happy that she’s following her lord and master

It was a great start to our journey to Nossob!

Close by a jackal expressed what he thought about his king and queen

We don’t often see kudu in Kgalagadi so it was great to find these beautiful males at the waterhole.

Kudu

A passing tourist alerted us to cheetah around the corner.   We took our time as we’d seen cheetah in this spot before and knew they would be far from the road and not in a hurry to move on.

On the way we spied these two perched high up and surveying the scene.

White-backed Vultures

We could not resist snapping this kestrel either

Rock Kestrel

And then as we rounded the corner we saw a few cars looking over the wide grassland and soon caught sight of cheetahs on the move.

Cheetahs

We wondered where they were headed

Just to a shady tree where they could sleep for the rest of the day!

We continued on our way, delighted to have had 2 cat sightings in one morning.   There was not much excitement for the rest of the way but we did stop for birds and enjoyed seeing all the springbok, gemsbok, kori bustards – we counted 97 in one day – there must have been a Kori Bustard convention that nobody told us about.    Usually it’s very exciting spotting one but we had become quite blasé about these magnificent birds.

Our plan was to stop at a picnic site and Earl would cook breakfast but by the time we got there he was feeling dreadful so we settled for cereal and coffee.

Isn’t it amazing that you can be 1000 km from home in a reserve where you seldom see another soul on the road and then you can randomly turn up at a picnic site and  you recognise the only other people there.  Yes – we met Sean and Isobella, members of our bird club,  who just happened to be on their way to Mata Mata where they were exiting to go to Namibia!  What were the chances!

There was a lot of bird activity but this was the best photograph I managed. This little chap is a black chested prinia. He is in his non-breeding feathers hence no black chest!

Black-chested Prinia

We made Earl as comfortable as possible in the passenger seat and I drove the rest of the way to Nossob.  He had the shivers and was not a happy man.

It was after 1:30 when we arrived.  We needed to refuel for our trip to Gharagab the following day as there would be no place to do so between here and there.   We had also been warned that Nossob was running low on diesel but there was no point on filling up at Mata Mata as we were close on full.   It was a Sunday and the petrol pumps were closed till 2!  Earl got into the queue while I went to check in.   There was some delay at reception too as there was only one attendant who could deal with us and she was busy dealing with a gate and key crisis – not too sure of the details.  I got chatting to young woman in the queue who was checking in to go to Gharagab.   There were two vehicles and three people in her party and they’d driven all the way from Twee Rivieren and were heading straight for Gharagab 160km away on a 4×4 track.   I wished her luck as I was sure they wouldn’t make it before dark!  We would not dream of driving from Twee Rivieren to Gharagab without an overnight stop at Nossob.   You never know how often you are going to stop for animals, whether you’ll get a puncture, how bad the roads might be etc. etc.  But they were young, thought themselves invincible and didn’t have a care in the world.  Do I miss those days?  No, I don’t think so!

Luckily there was enough diesel, we stocked up on fire wood and mineral water – no drinking water at Gharagab and checked into our bungalows.  Earl went straight to bed.  Heather, Peter and I, after some lunch and unpacking walked to the hide which overlooks a waterhole.

Wildebeest taking a drink

There was quite a lot of bird activity and we watched a lanner trying to catch doves but he was not successful.

I managed to snap a pale chanting goshawk just as he took flight.

Earl remained in bed and Peter braaied our supper.   We debated whether we should abandon the trip and try and get to Upington and a doctor. I had a well-stocked first aid kit with flu medication but no antibiotics.  Earl’s fever was over 40 degrees C, which worried me. Once at Gharagab we would be settled for three nights – no driving around as the only road is the one-way, round trip on a  4X4 track between Nossob and the wilderness camp. Travelling to Twee Rivieren would take forever and then it would be another 250 km to Upington.  I thought Earl would be more comfortable staying put and decided that he might as well be sick there as anywhere else.  So the plan was for me to drive the 4×4 track and see how things went.