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Women’s Day Weekend in Struisbaai – Part One

After a rainy and cold week we find ourselves here in Struisbaai once again.   A text from our rental agent warned us that there might be road closures due to the recent heavy rains and flooding.  Really?  We didn’t give it too much thought and set off with Tony and Sharon at about 3:30 yesterday afternoon.  “I’d better just phone and check,” I said.   “It would be a pity to get to Bredasdorp only to find that road closed.”   Sure enough, we were warned that only twin cabs and 4X4s were able to make it through.  “Huh?”   No problem for us as fortunately as we drive a Fortuner!  I still didn’t believe that it could be that bad but it was!   There was a virtual river running across the road halfway between Bredasdorp and Struisbaai.

Will the big truck get through  - Yes indeed so we should too.

Will the big truck get through – Yes indeed so we should too.

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Fellow travellers forging the river

It was dark and cold when we reached our house and we put on the gas heater the minute we’d unpacked!    Then after a glass of wine and chat we set off to Agulhas to seek a place to have dinner.  To our horror Seagulls was closed – apparently taking advantage of the quiet season to get away for their annual holiday.  So we settled for Zuidste Kaap Restaurant (Most Southern Cape Restaurant) which had a fire in a huge hearth and very good food.  (The fire did very little to warm the place though)  Earl had Eisbein and Sharon and I had Vegetarian Pasta and Tony Rainbow Pasta.   All excellent.

We slept snugly and rose this morning to a unique “Early” breakfast. Nobody else can possibly compete with whatever it is he does to make this the most delicious breakfast in the world.  (Thanks my darling)

We then packed up and took ourselves off to De Hoop Nature Reserve – a very special place about an hour or so away.   The results of the recent rains were evident everywhere and had attracted a variety of waterbirds not usually seen in the area.

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A tranquil scene on a temporary lake

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Indulging in a morning preen

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Aren’t we beautiful

From Bredasdorp we take the Swellendam Road and then 6km out of Bredasdorp we take the dirt road to Malgas travelling about 40 km before turning right to De Hoop.  En route, we stop of course, to observe birds and take scenic photographs.

Now we know why it is so cold - Snow on the Caledon Mountains!

Now we know why it is so cold – Snow on the Caledon Mountains!

A Patchwork of colour with farmhouse in background

A Patchwork of colour with farmhouse in background

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A Grey Heron with an identity crisis – He is impersonating a swan

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Capped Wheatear posing obligingly

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Flood water creating a lovely scene

Mommy sheep with twins

Mommy sheep with twins

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Spurwinged Goose, Two Cape Shovellers and A Yellow-billed Duck

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The proteas in the park were in full bloom

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Although it was still chilly we the sun was shiny and there was good light and after the rain everything looked bright and clear.  The birds and animals in the park clearly thought today was the day to make an appearance and we found them everywhere. All were enjoying the sunshine and the abundance of water.

De Hoop Nature Reserve is 34 000 ha in size and the largest natural area managed by Cape Nature.  It is a good place to go if you enjoy hiking, cycling, bird watching and of course whale watching.

It forms part of the world’s smallest and most threatened plant Kingdom – the Cape Floral Kingdom. Fynbos is the dominant vegetation group. The Bredasdorp / Agulhas and Infanta area has an estimated 1500 plant species of the approximately 9 000 species found in the Cape Floristic Region.  We live in a beautiful part of the world and have such interesting flora and fauna.  What a privilege to have such easy access to it.  Not only can we see the rare bontebok and other mammal species here but it is adjacent to the De Hoop Marine Reserve too and at Koppie Alleen there is an opportunity to see whales and other marine life too.

Cape Bulbul catching some rays

Cape Bulbul catching some rays

Common Fiscal

Common Fiscal

Smart Ostrich

Ostriches out and about

Zebra/Kwagga

Cape Mountain Zebra

Large Eland Male

Male and Female Eland

Bontebok

Bontebok

Our close cousins

Our close cousins

Bokmakierie

Bokmakierie

We have often dined at the restaurant in the park and can highly recommend it.  Sharon and I had traditional South African fare in the form of Bobotie and Tony and Earl indulged in Mussel Chowder.

The Four of us Indulging in good South African food

The Four of Us Indulging in Good South African Food

This cheeky chap demanded crumbs but we declined to indulge him.

Cape Francolin

Cape Francolin

The trees were full of noisy birds eating berries

Cape Bulbul

Cape Bulbul

Mousebird

Mousebird

After lunch we drove to Koppie Alleen to see if we could spot a whale or two.  We were not disappointed.  There were dozens of Southern Right Whales in the bay which were seen clearly with the aid of our binoculars.    It was bitterly cold on the dunes so we didn’t spend too much time before we were driven back to the warmth of our vehicle.

Koppie Alleen

Koppie Alleen

Whale Watching

Whale Watching

The Bay was full of them

The Bay was full of Southern Right Whales

On our way out the baboons once again amused us.

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Daddy Baboon

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Mommy and Baby

After a great day out we returned to our cosy cottage and Chef Earl produced a wonderful braai – chicken wings on sticks, skilpaaidjies (not real tortoises honestly – just liver wrapped in sheep fat) lamb chops, vegetables in foil and  Sharon’s Coleslaw.   To finish a stunning lemon meringue from Checkers’ Bakery.

The Indoor Braai

The Indoor Braai

Yum!

Yum!

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A Great Start to 2011 Part 2 Mountain Zebra to Addo

5 January 2011

We left at 6 and enjoyed some game viewing and birding before exiting at 7:15. A ranger stopped to tell us that there were black rhino near the gate. But they had disappeared by the time we got there. Still good to know that they are around.
ADDO
We arrived at Addo Rest Camp at quarter to 10 – too early for checking into the bungalow so we unhitched the trailer, had a health breakfast at the restaurant and went for a drive.

First animal seen –  elephant! This after people we met in Kokstad told us they’d been to Addo several times and had never seen elephants.  We, on the other hand, have always seen hundreds and we have been coming to Addo since the year 2000.

Road Block

This time of the year is clearly good for game viewing. The park was green and there was plenty of water around. The only disappointing water hole was Marion Barree.
But back to day 1. We made our way to Carol’s rest where lion had been seen. En route saw lots of kudu and red hartebeest, a jackal and eland at a distance but lots of them – never seen so many before. A family were out of their car trying to get a better look at the game. We drew up next to them and I asked, “Are you South Africans?” They were but had no idea that they weren’t allowed out of their vehicle. Never mind the symbols at the gate! Earliebird told them that lion had been sighted round the corner. They were back in the vehicle quick smart. Homo Ignoramus!

There were no lion at Carol’s Rest but there was a buffalo drinking.  We moved on and headed back toward camp enjoying sightings of elephant, eland, buffalo, red hartebeest and zebra.  The birds we found were common fiscal, mousebirds – red-faced and speckled and red-capped larks.   The birdlife this trip was not as prolific as usual – very few bokmakieries of which there are usually scores.

We decided not to braai and I cooked a chicken casserole for dinner which we enjoyed outdoors looking over the valley and watched kudu, buffalo and elephant make their way to the waterhole for an evening drink.

Thursday 6 January 2011

Earliebird had a strong feeling that the lions would be at Carol’s Rest this morning so we set off early and were the first out the gate.  It was 22⁰C and climbing.   We drove slowly and enjoyed sightings of kudu – males had lovely big antlers, eland and red hartebeest.  The large herds of eland had many babies amongst them so the herd is certainly going to grow even more.

Eland

A jackal trotted along on a mission and a pale chanting goshawk in a tree caught our attention.

Jackal

Our Caravelle and a Kombi arrived almost simultaneously at Carol’s Rest and we were the only cars for about 10 minutes.  We saw the two big buffalo bulls straight away and for a minute I thought that was it when the three lions exploded on my senses – two young males and a female.   There was no cover for any of the animals and they were staring at each other.

Don’t mess with us!

We could hear a jackal howling and eventually saw him with our binoculars.  He was clearly upset that the three lions were so near the waterhole or was begging them to attack so he could help partake in the meal.   But there was no way these predators were going to get into those two huge ungulates.   There was no doubt who had the upper hand – or hoof.   The buffalo grazed peacefully until the lions came to close then charged and had them scampering away.  We watched the cats try a few half-hearted attempts before settling down to play with each other and finally snooze.

Affection

More cars began to arrive and as it was a wide-open area there was plenty of place to park and everyone had a good view.   Suddenly I noticed the passenger in the car parked in front of us trying to catch my attention.   It our daughter’s friend, Michele, visiting the park with her husband and kids.   Lisa had told her to look out for us and it was great that we could tell her we’d found each other at the lion sighting.

Cars kept arriving and stopping to look at the lions but one came along, obviously saw the buffalo and thought to himself – oh they’re all looking at the buffalo and drove straight by!   He did not bother to scan the area properly and missed what was probably on the top of his wish  list.  I can just hear him telling his mates – “It’s a waste of time going to game reserves – you don’t see anything.”    Well – you don’t see anything if you don’t take the time to look.

We spent over an hour with the magnificent cats and during that time zebra came to drink and two more jackal appeared.  We then moved on to see what else Addo had to show us.  My list went something like this – red-capped lark, African pipit, drongo, hoopoe (one who posed beautifully),  warthog, jackal, elephants, jackal, tortoise, elephants, tortoise, warthog, bokmakierie, eland, elephant, tortoise.

Red-capped lark with lunch
Zebra and Hartebeest nose to nose
Warthog mom and babies

Hoopoe
Tortoise Couple

The temperature had climbed to 38 by the time we got back for brunch and we relaxed for a few hours before venturing out again at 4 o’clock. We enjoyed seeing the usual suspects but were amazed at all the tortoises that kept making an appearance – our total for the day was at least 12, so we called today The Day of the Tortoise.

Afternoon Drive

Our highlight of the afternoon was spending time at a little waterhole that we could just see through a gap in the bush.   Earliebird spotted two yellow-billed ducks under a dead log  which made a very pretty picture.

Another then swam by behind them then they swam to join it further along.

We were just enjoying the tranquil scene when a yellow-billed kite landed in a tree right in front of us and entertained us by preening and spreading his wings and providing us with wonderful Kodak moments.

Yellow-billed Kite

Several cars stopped to find out what we were so engrossed in but when we told them we were looking at ducks and kites they moved straight on. Oh dear, we birders are a funny lot!

After an hour of this, we went to Jack’s Picnic site for a loo break and were very impressed with this facility.

Just  before entering we stopped at a mud puddle and laughed at an itchy warthog  He’d found a very entertaining way of relieving his itches on a strategically placed rock.

Itchy Warthog
Oh the relief!

We braaied the last of our chops and enjoyed them with baked potatoes and salad while we once again watched the wildlife take their evening stroll down to the waterhole.

Friday 7 January 2011

This morning, our last, we packed everything ready to go and then headed out for a drive before breakfast.   We were enjoying observing all the Addo game when someone stopped to tell us that there were hyena at Domkrag Dam.   We did not rush but were luck enough to get there before they disappeared.   Photography was not easy from the lookout point but we got nice views of the remaining hyena with our binoculars.

Finally, it was time to leave. We returned to our bungalow, hitched up the trailer and then went to the restaurant for a health breakfast – highly recommended – muesli, fruit and yogurt in a glass.

Michelle and her family saw us as they were heading for the waterhole and told us that they’d seen a black rhino at the campsite fence the night before.

We took our time driving through the new section of the park exiting at the Colchester gate.   We enjoyed zebra crossing with babies in front of us

Baby first

A steppe buzzard posed for a portrait

The sombre greenbul finally “came out to fight” – you hear this bird constantly calling – Willie come out and fight – but you seldom see him!  I guess he is too scared.

Sombre Greenbul

Finally we found the highlight of our trip – the tiniest little quail-finch. What fascinating birds.

You never know what a game reserve is going to offer you – it is different every time.  This was not our most exciting visit to Addo but it was certainly still most enjoyable and who knows what she will have to offer next time.