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#NaBloPoMo 24 – St Francis Bay

NaBloPoMo

The weather in Jeffrey’s Bay is stunning.  We sat on the deck to have our morning tea and there was no need for a jersey.   After a delicious breakfast of fruit salad, muesli and yogurt we set off for to explore St Francis Bay which is not far from J-Bay.

St Francis Bay was first sighted in 1575 by the Portuguese seafarers who named it after the patron saint of sailors. It is a tranquil village with meandering waterways, picturesque thatched houses, abundant birdlife and miles of golden beaches.

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We drove past a game farm and saw quite a few species through the electric fence and also did some birding wherever we found ourselves.

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Grey Heron

At lunch time we went to a restaurant with a wonderful view of St Francis Harour but unfortunately the food did not match it. Jim had fried hake which left him feeling that he needed something to take the taste away later in the afternoon!  The rest of us settled for prawn and salmon salad which was less than mediocre.   To make it more interesting they could have added some avocado pear and perhaps mango.    The “prawns” were tiny, deep-fried, crumbed shrimps, the taste of which indicated that they were fried in oil that was not too fresh.   A rule we usually follow is not to go into a restaurant where there are no diners or where there are people sitting without food in front of them – It’s a clear indication that the food and service are bad!  Such a pity because the venue was great.

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St Francis Harbour

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We visited an interesting shell shop at St Francis Harbour

One of the highlights of our birding today was finding a Kitlitz Plover with a chick.  When Mommy saw us she sent her chick into hiding and then scurried away from the spot and drew attention to herself.  We sat quietly in the car waiting and then moved a little way off to fool her that we were no longer interested in her baby.  It worked and the little one appeared and we were able to get a picture or two.

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Mother Kittlitz’s Plover 

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Don’t even think of coming near my chick!

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At last the baby appeared 

Kittlitz’s plovers mate for life.  Their nest is a scrape in bare, dry ground, sometimes raised on mound in coarse sand or dried mud, mostly < 100 m from water.  The female lays between 1 and 3 eggs but usually 2 and both male and female sit on the eggs.  Today we saw only one parent and one chick.

Nearby we found another avian couple having a bath together.

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White-fronted plovers enjoying a bath in a puddle

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White-fronted plover

 

At tea-time Maureen said she had a craving for chocolate cake so we headed to a lovely bakery and sat down to coffee and the most delicious chocolate cake – well the others did – I virtuously stuck to Rooibos tea and a banting crunchie!    It made up for the inferior lunch!

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Coffee and Cake to end our outing

 

 

 

 

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#NaBloPoMo 22 -Birthday Surprises

NaBloPoMo

How the weather can change so rapidly is a mystery to me.  It was pouring at bedtime last night and I thought it would go on for a week!  But this morning dawned bright and sunny with not a cloud to be see.  It was, however, still a tad chilly but it warmed up to short and t-shirt temperature by midday.

We did not dash out at dawn but were on safari before 7 am.

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Speckled mousebird catching the early morning rays

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This common waxbill teased me by flitting from tree to tree while I tried to snap his portrait.  After much begging he finally obliged.  Can you see that – oh all right then – expression on his face?

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This red-necked spurfowl is far friendlier and quite likes the attention of the  paparazzi

We had a pleasant drive and then returned to have breakfast at Cattle Baron at 10 before setting off again.

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Because it’s my birthday I was treated to breakfast in a restaurant!

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Warthogs have this cute habit of kneeling down to get closer to their food.

The elephants were having fun today.  At Hapoor we watched herd after herd come down to drink and play in the mud.  The babies always amuse me.

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Later in the day at another waterhole, we found a small family group having a muddy bath.  The two youngsters were rolling on top of each other and I could almost hear them singing – mud – glorious mud.  If eared that the smaller ellie wouldn’t be able to make it out of the mire but his elders used their trunks to help him out.   It was fascinating to watch.

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This is fun – really, truly it is!

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Do I have to get out?

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Okay, I’m coming

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Don’t forget my brother!

I took a video of the adults helping the baby out and will post it when I’ve worked out how.

We were looking at some creature when I suddenly became aware of a hoep hoep sound behind me.  I knew that sound and turned to look and sure enough there was an African Hoopoe right beside the road.  He was strutting about proudly showing off his catch – a lovely juicy worm

He kept strutting about and calling and I wondered if he was going to give it to his mate but she was nowhere to be seen.

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Look what I’ve got – Aren’t I clever!

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And don’t you love my gorgeous crest – I’m such a handsome boy!

Well no other hoopoe made an appearance and for several minutes he continued showing off his catch.  Then all of a sudden a Common Fiscal appeared from nowhere and snatched it from his beak.  Not so smart anymore Mr Hoopoe – that will teach you to be such a show-off!

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Another fine bird make my day – malachite sunbird

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And a glossy starling too

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Buffalo are the lions favourite food and these we saw near Zuurkop lookout.  We heard roaring but no sign of the predators looking for lunch.

Our drive produced many of our favourite creatures including zebra, red hartebeest, kudu,jackal and meerkat.   It was four o’clock and we were making our way back to camp on the hapoor loop when up ahead we saw four cars stopped on the road.  “What can you see?” asked Earl.  “Lion” I said, “in the shade on the side of the road.” “No way,” he said.  But soon we were able to get closer and there he was – a single male lion – definitely there to wish me Happy Birthday.   He was like a great big pussy cat washing his face and paws!

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We invited our German neighbours, Ruth and Klaus to join us for a braai this evening. What a lovely way to end our stay in Addo Elephant Park.

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And as I write this post I can hear the lions roaring not too far away!

 

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#NaBloPoMo 20 – Lions and more@ Addo

NaBloPoMo

It was the call of the fiery-necked nightjar calling loudly that woke me at a rude hour this morning.  I lay listening to The Good Lord Deliver Us over and over again before reluctantly climbing out of bed and heading to the showers.  Good thing too – because it was already light and gate opening was at 5:30.  We made it to the gate by 5:45.

The weather was somewhat cooler but still warm enough for shorts and t-shirt but I took along a jersey for when the windows were open.  Our first bird of the morning was this summer visitor from Eastern Europe

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Although the steppe buzzards breeds in Eastern Europe they migrate to Southern Africa in summer arriving in October and leaving in April

Another non-breeding summer migrant is the barn swallow

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These birds start arriving in September and the last ones leave in April

An intra-African migrant Lesser Striped swallow greeted us early this morning.

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Lesser Striped Swallow – present in South Africa from July to March

The Southern Masked weaver is a common resident in South Africa and is not too shy to pose for a portrait.  They can become quite tame and frequent campsites in the hope that they pick up a snack or two from the friendly humans.

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How those vicious thorns don’t stab them I do not know.

As we drive around the reserve we frequently hear – Willie – come out and fight – scared.  Or that is what the field guides tell us the Sombre bulbul is saying.  But I think it sounds more like. Look out – you can’t find me – whaaaaa.  But today we did find him – right out in the open too.

Another one who calls out loudly and likes to hide is the very pretty little Diderick Cuckoo.   Today Earl found him trying to camouflage in the foliage.

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The male cuckoo is very good looking – but he and his wife don’t raise their own chicks.  The female chooses a variety of hosts including the southern masked weaver, red bishop, Cape sparrow and Cape wagtail. She lays up to 20 eggs per season so that’s a lot of surrogate mothers she has to find!

It is important to get out into the park early if you want to see predators. Lions are lazy and sleep in a shady spot most of the day.  Today we found two large males at Carol’s Rest and they were just lying there – awake and just staring into the distance.

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Lions Rule

Red Hartebeest, zebra and kudu were waiting, dead still, over the road on the hillside, very aware of the enemy and too scared to come down to drink.

We parked off, had breakfast and drank our coffee while we waited to see if anything would happen.  Warthogs have to be the bravest and cheekiest of animals.  The appeared from the other side of the waterhole so did not consult with the herbivores on the hillside.  They boldly approached their kings and I wondered how the conversation went.

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Please, Your Majesty, may I go down to drink?

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Now let me think – I’ll check with my brother

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NO!  Get out of here or we’ll have you for breakfast!

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The cheek of those subjects!

You would think the others would learn from the warties – but no – all of a sudden a herd of donkeys in prison clothes came racing across the road – then stood dead still in front of their sovereign.

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We’re just out of jail and very thirsty – May we have a drink please sire?

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Oh sure – if you want to be steak!

So they turned tail and headed back to the hill.

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They have to leave some time – we’ll just have to wait!

We watched these antics for over an hour and then decided to head back to camp.

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We were thrilled to find two meerkats – but only one photograph is worth posting.

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Life is good in Addo Elephant Park

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Jackals are usually on a mission but this one must have had a tough night as he is settling for a nap

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I’m watching you – please leave me in peace.

Back at camp we decided to follow the jackals example and have a nap before going out in search of more game later in the afternoon.

It was 3 pm when we set off again and I have to eat my words about summer reaching the Eastern Cape ahead of us.  A cold front sneaked up, strong winds blew and the heavens clouded over.   It is calmer as I type but freezing cold!   It will probably rain in the night.

Anyway this did not dampen our spirits and we had an enjoyable game drive.  Surprisingly there we saw no elephants until the very end.

It was great to see a black-shouldered kite

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A greater double-collared sunbird posed and sang for us.

And finally at Hapoor we found a small herd of elephants

We decided to do a small potjie over the fire for tonight’s dinner

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And just to make our day a bushbuck came to visit

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#NaBloPoMo 19 Garden Route to Addo

NaBloPoMo

Last night’s dinner was great.  We went to Royal Siam a wonderful Thai Restaurant in the Milkwood Village Shopping Centre, Wilderness.   Milkwood Village is centred under the beautiful protected milkwood trees and has a variety of shops and restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating. As it was a tad chilly we decided to sit indoors but the ambience was still great.  The service was wonderful and we enjoyed the food – a prawn and avo salad and zebra rainbow rolls for me and sweet and sour pork for Earl.

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Good cuisine in a beautiful setting

We were packed and ready to leave at a minute to six this morning. It is a beautiful part of the country to travel through and if ever you do it don’t rush past as we did today but rather stop and explore as many of the wonderful spots that you can. Knysna with its stunning lagoons and lakes is a particularly lovely place to stay.

Our friends Jim and Maureen had been at Addo for 6 days and were due to leave today so they waited for us to arrive and we had breakfast together at the restaurant.  They had also saved a good caravan site for us.

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All set up and ready for a 4 day sojourn

The climate in the Eastern Cape is very different to where we live.  Summer has truly arrived here while back home it is a tad warmer than last month but we still need our jackets in the evenings and early mornings!   Addo is hot!  We are in Africa!  We immediately shed our jeans and long sleeved t-shirts for short and cool tops!

Addo is an elephant park – so yes on our first drive this afternoon we saw them aplenty.  But we also saw other creatures.

You’d be forgiven for thinking it was a warthog park because there are thousands of them about.  Still, I just love the ugly creatures.   They stick skinny, little, aerial tails straight up in the air when they run from danger, so that their kin can follow them through the bush and not get lost.

I was thrilled to get piccies of this mother and her piglets.

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Leave my babies alone!

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Aren’t we adorable

Only the males of the kudu antelope have horns.  They begin to grow when he is between 6 and 12 months old and he usually has 2 and a half twists by the time he is six years old.   Sometimes a male may get up to three twists in his horns.

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A male kudu gives us a meaningful stare – he is about 2 years old

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Two twists and growing!

Eland are not as commonly found in the game parks as kudu, but Addo has a fair number of them.

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Both male and females have horns

Although it’s great to see the big animals, I just love the smaller ones too.  This cute little yellow mongoose gave us great pleasure

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He is an inquisitive creature

The yellow mongoose, is sometimes called the red meerkat. He weighs about 500g and is about 50 cm in length.

We also saw tortoises both big and small. This chap is a leopard tortoise

The leopard tortoise is the fourth largest species of tortoise in the world. The adults reach 56cm in length and weigh up to 18 kg.

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I think he likes us

We found this handsome heron atop a dead tree. The black-headed heron is a large bird, standing 85 cm tall, and it has a 150 cm wingspan.  It usually fishes for fish and frogs but will also hunt away from water and wait silently and still before capturing an unsuspecting small mammal or bird. He also eats large insects.

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Seeking non-aquatic prey, I think.

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This pretty little Karoo Scrub-robin posed nicely for us

We found these tiny goslings while watching elephants at a waterhole and I couldn’t resist snapping them.  They were quite unafraid of the enormous pachyderms

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Mom and Dad were close by.

We saw scores of elephants but I will just post a few here as there will be plenty more in the next few days.

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The driver of this car was a tad nervous when Jumbo came right up and stared at him through the windscreen

Both the male and female African Elephant have tusks – except in Addo Elephant Park.  This was due to years of interbreeding but new stock has been introduced and some of the new generation females are beginning to sport tusks again.

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Note the lack of tusks in this female elephant

Stay tuned for more Addo reports over the next few days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Visiting the Kids in Kokstad – Stopover at Mountain Zebra National Park

Our next stopover was Mountain Zebra National Park.  We spent two nights there.   Our accommodation was a family cottage and it was amazing.   The beds had down duvets – very necessary as it was freezing!   The cottage was spotless and well equipped, the towels snowy white and everything worked!   We had a beautiful view and the monkeys were our most frequent visitors.  We had one breakfast and one dinner at the restaurant and we were hugely impressed.  The service was friendly and efficient and the food excellent.

The lovley thing about Mountain Zebra National Park which is situated near Cradock in the Eastern Cape is that it is totally unspoilt.   It is a small park set in the mountains, with plenty of mountain zebra and other mammals including 2 male lions (we did not see them) some cheetah (didn’t see them either) black rhino (dipped of these too) buffalo, red harteest, gemsbok and variety of other buck species.  The birdlife is also varied and we were well entertained on our drives. The scenery too is magnificent.   We checked out the campsite and were impressed.  We will come here with the caravan on future visits.  The only reason we did not bring the caravan this time was because we were to be staying with Lauren and going to a few places where we could not camp.

Tuesday 14 april 2015 Mountain Zebra National Park

The drive to Mountain Zebra National Park near Craddock is a pleasant 5 hours.  We stop for breakfast at Uniondale.  We find a restaurant but are told that it is no longer functioning and she directs us to the hotel.  It looks very bleak and uninviting but we are welcomed and shown into a large dining room with beautiful paintings of Italy on the walls. The coffee is excellent and we order omelettes which are lovely.   The melon and ginger jam with toast is quite delightful.  We are the only patrons but as we are leaving I see a woman of about my age and her mother approaching the restaurant.  They look a little unsure.  I ask if they’re going for breakfast and the younger woman says – We just want coffee – is it any good.  Ï assure that it is and tell her that if she doesn’t want breakfast she could just order the toast and melon and ginger jam. She looks relieved and ushers her ancient mom, walking with a stick, into the restaurant.

It is overcast and cold at first and freezing in Uniondale but the weather gradually warms up.  It is 24 C when we get to the reserve.   We drive around for a while and see Mountain Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Kudu, monkeys and a variety of birds including scaly-feathered finch, common fiscal, white-browed sparrow-weaver, Cape sparrow, white-backed mousebirds, Rufous-cheeked warbler, blacksmith lapwing, spoonbill, Egyptian Geese and yellow-billed ducks.

This is why it is called Mountain Zebra National Park This is why it is called Mountain Zebra National Park
Scaly Feathered finch A rather special find – Rufous-eared warbler

We then check in and have a short rest in our cottage – number 6.

At 4:30 we drive out again and it is very cold.  We see a variety of animals and birds and then return and have a braai for supper.
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WEDNESDAY 15 APRIL 2015 MOUNTAIN ZEBRA NATIONAL PARK
We wake up without the alarm at 6:30. Gate opening is 7:00. We are out by 7:10 and take the mountain pass route. There is lots of game about – buffalo, black wildebeest, blesbok, springbok and eland. Birdlife is good too. A little pond produces spoonbills, yellow-billed ducks and red billed teal – rare in the park. The monkeys in the park are very naughty as moneys tend to be – we were amused to see them try to chase a pair of blue crane. By the end of the drive we had our bird list up to 35 – not as many as I thought but we seem to see the same species over and over again.

Back at camp we have breakfast at the restaurant – we are the only guests but the eggs and bacon for Earl and omelette for me are excellent.

Earl takes a nap and I go for a walk. I find a woodpecker, chestnut vented tit-babbler, mouse-birds, cliff swallows, a double-collared sunbird and lots of Cape Buntings. The walk is lovely and I want to do the longer, Black Eagle one but decide that it’s not idea to do it on my own.

Double-collared sunbird Double-collared sunbird

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Rufous-vented titbabbler Rufous-vented titbabbler

Earl wakes up from his snooze at 2:30 and we go out for another drive. We take the 4X2 Loop which is very scenic but does not produce much game or birds. Towards the end we do see lots of baboons, black wildebeest, blesbok, zebra and springbok.
The birding toward the camp is good and once inside camp we find a few golden breasted bunting. Our list is now up to 42 species.

IMG_1010 IMG_1024 IMG_1047 We return and it is getting really cold. Earl can’t seem to warm up and his gout is bothering him. I take a hot shower and put on a long sleeved dress and leggings. We go to the restaurant for supper. Earl has lamb shank and I order two starters – springbok carpaccio and chilli chicken livers. The meal is amazing. I am hugely impressed with the standard of the restaurant. Much better than the Bug ‘n Mean in Kruger National Park.
When we return to the chalet Earl has a hot shower and hops into bed. I put an extra blanket on to ensure that he doesn’t freeze to death. Later in the evening I have to get up and it is absolutely freezing! The temperatures really drop here at night – not that they are that high during the day!

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Catching up with the Kokstad Clan

Schools broke on Friday and I was looking forward to having a long free afternoon to pack and organise myself for departure to KZN instead of my usual trick of going directly to the airport from school.   However, there was something I had to do before I could settle down to the packing.  I left school at 12:30 after setting it up for the new term and then as I have been suffering from an infection which has left me feeling rather low I went to Constantiaberg for a bladder and kidney scan just to make sure all is in order.  Phew – yes everything is fine and I just need to get over myself!

The best way to do this is to get out there and have a holiday!   Saturday morning found us packed and ready for Lisa to take us to Cape Town International and we were in the air at 10:30 a.m.   The sun was trying hard to shine and we took off in only slightly overcast conditions.  Sitting in the second row of Mango was delightful with Earl at the window disturbing my reading by pointing out the fabulous landscape below.  I am not usually a happy flyer but this year has seen me in the air several times and hey – I’m now quite blasé about the whole affair – didn’t even listen to the safety instructions – I now know to grab the flippin’ mask before helping the next guy and kick off the heels to go down the slippery slip after following the well-lit arrows to the exit. And who cares anyway – if we crash I hope it’s over in a flash – I don’t want to be floating in the icy ocean below!

Durban did not put on its best face for us – temperature – same as Cape Town and raining too!  Come on KZN – we need some cheering up!  Too long have we suffered the winter blues back home – it has been the longest, coldest and wettest winter we’ve had since 2004!

Our hire car is a Toyota D4D Double Cab  much like the one Earl used to drive so he is a happy chappy.   We have booked to go to Wattle Crane Cottage high in the mountains and this requires a 4X4 – more about that later.

Ahhh KwaZulu Natal – how different to the Western Cape. It’s the colour that is the first thing to strike you – different shades of green and more green.  The mountains are green, the fields are green unlike the Cape   KZN is lush and sub tropical – The Cape is mild and Mediterranean.   The further away from Cosmopolitan Cape Town you go the more you feel that you are truly in Africa.   We travel along the South Coast for a while and stop to buy some fruit from the roadside informal traders.   I have never seen such enormous avocado pears.  The traders bring barrows full of produce and sit in front of their huts and sell to the passing motorists.

Informal Trader on the side of the highway

Informal Zulu Trader on the side of the highway

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Hut with a view

Hut with a view

When we turn inland and travel through a part of the Eastern Cape to get to Kokstad at the foot of the Drakensburg Mountains.  The roads can be treacherous to travel along because of potholes and livestock who think the road is there for them.  Today the condition of the road is mainly good – maintenance has taken place but the livestock are there.

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Along the way the fruit sellers are there but also some enterprising people who braai mielies on an open fire and provide sustenance for hungry locals and travellers alike.   I wanted to take a photograph but the lady shouted and put her umbrella in front of her and the person next to her sent her child across with the wares so you can just make out the fire of the one and shy brolly of the other in the background.

Not for us but thank for the photograph

Not for us but thanks for the photograph

We made it to Kaag’s Post at exactly 4 o’clock precisely according to Earl”s planning which gives him great satisfaction.

A fork tailed drongo greets us at the bridge

A fork tailed drongo greets us at the bridge

Then flies into the willows

Then flies into the willows

The wild peach trees offer some welcome colour to the eternal green of KZN

The wild peach trees offer some welcome colour to the eternal green of KZN

Simon was hiding when we arrived but the dogs and Lauren were there with the dogs and Shannon and Alan not far behind.  It’s wonderful to be with them again. Shan has grown in the seven months since seeing her last and  she’s now almost as tall as me.    Good thing I decided to get the 12-13 jeans and t-shirt I’ve brought her!

Lauren and the dogs

Lauren and the dogs

Simon was finally persuaded to come out of hiding and had a rough and tumble with his grandfather.

Rough and tumble with Grandpa

Rough and tumble with Grandpa

The Bakers came for supper and we enjoyed a wonderful Weber of pork and chicken and the excellent company of kids’ best friends!   More – much more to follow.