1 December 2017 – Transport Dam and Lake Panic

What is it that brings one back to the Kruger National Park time and time again? For many it’s the thrill of seeing the Big Five – Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and Rhino. And yes – there’s not doubt that these creatures as well as hyena, jackal, wild dog and cheetah give one an enormous thrill. But that’s not what brings me back for more. It’s more than that – it’s being in the bush, communing with nature, the trees, the peace the whole vibe of the place and especially the birds. I love to sit at a waterhole or dam and observe the activity of the waders, the weavers, herons and kingfishers. I can’t put into words how awesome it is. I know that some people raise their eyebrows and shake their heads and wonder what I’m on about – but I can’t help it. Put me in a hide for three hours and I will be content to just sit and watch and take in the peace and tranquility of it all.

Today was awesome. Let me tell you about it. But if your eyes have already glazed over -don’t worry – I won’t be offended if you do not read – this blog is for those who are as bird nerdy as I am!

Omigosh – as I sit here outside my caravan at 21:06 on the balmiest if evenings I hear the distant sound of a hyena calling. This is what it’s like in the middle of the African Bush! But back to today’s story.

I woke to the sound of the “Piet my Vrou” at 5:00 am this morning. This cuckoo – the red-chested cuckoo to be precise calls incessantly in the summertime but is almost impossible to find as he hides so well in the foliage of the trees. However, as I emerged from my caravan to go to the showers, wrapped in nothing but my sarong I spotted said cuckoo atop a dead tree in full view and full song! The early morning light is not good for photography and I thought – No – I don’t think this is worth a photograph but when I got to the ablutions I dumped my vanity bag, clothes and towel and dashed back to the caravan for the camera. “Patricia, ” I called outside my friend’s tent. “The Piet my Vrou is in full view. Come quickly and you will see her.” I then took several photographs, put my binoculars outside her tent as she couldn’t find hers and headed to the showers.

An early morning shot of a Red Chested Cuckoo – “Piet my Vrou”

When I was done I found a forlorn Patricia Mary. “I missed it by a second,” said she. “As i raised the binoculars to see him he flew away!” The problem was that P.M. had dallied over putting on some clothes instead of coming out half naked to see the elusive bird! But me? I have no pride! And if anybody saw a mad old woman in a sarong taking photos of an irritating bird calling at some ungodly hour and they didn’t like it – tough – I got my shot and that is all I wanted. For those of you reading who do not know the South African Birds – The call of the red-chested cuckoo sounds like the Afrikaans words – Piet my vrou meaning Pete my wife. Yes, I know it makes no sense at all.

Before we left for our morning drive we watched some little birds flitting about in the trees and were pleased to add bronze manikin to our list although the photograph is not worth publishing!

Choosing which bird is my favourite is very difficult because there are so many that I just love to see. But I definitely get a huge thrill every time I see a Saddle-Billed Stork so if pressed I would have to say that this is my favourite bird. Usually we spot them at some distance away in a pond or river but today we were hugely surprised to find on on the side of the road. She was alone, clicking her bill and hunting morsels to eat. She was not at all bothered by our presence and we were able to observe her for quite some time, first on the right side of the road and then crossing to the left where there was a midden. A dung beetle was busy doing his cleaning up job when his life came to a sudden end as Mrs SBS gobbled him up!

Our route took us to Afsaal Picnic Site where we stopped for breakfast. On the way we spotted some of our favourite creatures

What big tusks you have

This carnivorous snail is a big chap

Pearl breasted Swallow at the Afsaal

A lovely welcome from Tindlovu Rustic Kitchen at Afsaal

Afsaal is a busy stop but we were impressed with its efficiency. You can queue for take-aways or sit at a table and a waitron will take your order. We chose the latter and were highly impressed with our waitress. We dithered over our order and she treated us with patience and humour. The Earl said something annoying and I smacked him playfully. She looked at me in horror and rubbed his hand. Then we all burst out laughing. Finally she sorted out our whims and fancies and brought us a most enjoyable breakfast.

Our sassy waitress, Mpumi

Feeling fortified with food and content with our experience we continued on to Transport Dam. On the way we saw buffalo

And stopped for a loo break at Pretoriouskop

Beautiful Coral Tree

Ellie cooling off at Transport Dam

White-faced ducks

Wood Sandpiper

On our way to Skukuza we spotted a few regulars

Steenbok

Giraffe

It was very hot today and so we swam in the pool during our rest time and then Pat and I did a load of washing at the laundrette before we all went off to Lake Panic for our afternoon outing. This hide never disappoints. We spent an hour or so enjoying the business of nature going on before our eyes.

Nyala Males were having a drink and a play-fight – or were they serious?

A three-banded plover popped in for a while

There was great entertainment from green-backed herons

And Squacco Herons

Terrapins sunned themselves

Mr (below) and Mrs Pied Kingfisher fished

A paradise fly-catcher dipped in and out of the water for a bath and a drink.

Hippos conversed

A shy female nyala or three came down for a quick drink too

And two fish eagles loudly declared their love for each other

This was the best part of our day but reluctantly we had to leave.

Just before returning to camp we spotted this guy crossing the road. He scuttle off into the bush but not before turning around to say good evening.

Spotted Hyena ended our day

This evening we treated ourselves to an evening out to dinner at The Cattle Baron and it was awesome. Once again we had a smart, sassy waitress who took excellent care of our needs. It was a perfect ending to a stunning day.

Thursday 14 May 2015 Addo Elephant Park

The princess sleeps with earplugs and covers her eyes with a black mask so as not to let in the early morning light so I was surprised to find her up with the sparrows and ready to go! We were out the gate by 7:05 and as we admired the gorgeous sunrise she said, “I’d better take a photograph so I’ll remember what this looks like because I’m never up to see sunrises!”

A sunrise fit for a princess

She is sitting comfortably in the front seat and has warned me not to take photos of her without make-up – but she somehow manages to get it on between sightings – while we’re watching birds I suspect!

We drive around until 10ish finding the usual suspects – warthogs, a variety of buck, zebra play-fighting the odd elephant and lots of birds the highlight being a bar-throated apalis. Two pale chanting goshawks in a tree are also great and of course the bokmakieries are iconic in Addo.

The beautiful bokmakierie

Pale Chanting Goshawk

Denim’s Bustard

Bar-throated Apalis

Back at the hut we shower, the princess tarts up and Earl and I go to the communal kitchen to make breakfast. The princess has specific requests – no tomato and no kidneys please! Dad presents her with eggs, bacon and banana cooked to perfection. We slum it on scrambled eggs and kidneys – somehow I think we got the better deal!

When Her Highness is ready we set off for another game drive. We hear on the grapevine aka the Addo Face Book page that there were two male lions on the Gorah Loop 2 hours ago so we head there without expecting much. There are a few gathered parked on a bend and we see two lions a little way off but fast asleep. We snap a photo just to say that we’ve seen them then move on to enjoy more exciting things.

The King of the Jungle does not interest our royal passenger in this lazy state

Our drive is fruitful and we have fun watching Princess’s favourite creatures, marvelling at the Kudu and eland, amazed at the number of warhogs abound and are thrilled at how plentiful the game is. We spot one jackal but he is no mood to pose for a portrait.

We’re happy for a photo shoot

Mongoose

Zebra confrontation

An elephant tussle

A bum view

We go past the lions once more – still fast asleep and then go back to camp for lunch. The Cattle Baron has edged into the Sanparks. I hope all goes well and that I won’t have to do battle and change their name to the Battle Caron. The service is good. The Princess and the Earl order beef burgers. I settle for a house salad. The latter is stunning. The princess needs to do Battle with Caron. Her burger is inedible – “If I throw it against the wall it will bounce,” she tells the longsuffering waitress. “Let me try the chicken burger instead, please.” This turns out to be just perfect. The chips, too, are done to perfections. The Earl eats his burger but admits it was rather disgusting. “You should stick to Banting,”I say smugly. My salad is full of greens, tomato, avo, cheese and grated egg. Yum!

After a loo break we set straight off for another game drive. It is now 3:30. We head for Gorah Loop and get there around 4 – the lions have not moved – still dead to the world. We see a tail flick slightly so know they are in fact alive. Off we go in search of the ellies. We find lots and enjoy all the other game and birds too. “We should go to the lion sighting at 5,” I say. “They’ll wake up then.”

“They’ll only wake up if buffalo turn up,” says the Princess knowing that this is their favourite food.

So we continue on our way and enjoy the other things to see in this beautiful park.

We find ourselves back at the lion spot just after 5 – but they’re fast asleep. We switch off the engine and wait to see if anything will happen.

Suddenly the Princess yells – The buffalo are here! And sure enough there is a biggish herd, alert and sniffing the air.

What can they smell

They’re aware but are very short sighted and don’t actually see them. A few separate from the rest and begin grazing in the bushes behind the lions. One of the lions sits up,

The other rolls over and lies on his back.

Just let me sleep!

The grazers suddenly realise the lions are there and return to the herd. They regroup and start walking toward the lions. The boys leap up and start running toward the parked cars. The buffs chase after them and see them off. Wow – what an exciting sighting. See the video on Youtube

We follow the lions for some time and marvel at seeing elephants in the background too.

That was a rude awakening!

The gate closes at six and so the whole fleet of us head back to camp.

After packing up for an early departure tomorrow we decide it is too cold to do a braai so The Princess treats us to dinner at The Cattle Baron – they haven’t misbehaved enough to call them Battle Caron.

The Earl orders ribs – The Princess and I have grilled calamari tubes and share a Greek Salad. Perfect! The Earl is not 100% happy with the ribs – the sauce has a very strong taste that is not to his liking – It’s a half portion but he can’t finish it! We chat to the manager about our concerns and he takes it well and says he will investigate what the chef is doing and suggest some amendments to the way he does burgers and ribs! Everything else is perfect.

Addo Elephant park is fabulous. It is teeming with game, Jack’s picnic site is amazing, the facilities are clean and well-maintained and service is good. Next time we plan to visit one of the other rest camps – perhaps Spekbook tented will be fun. It overlooks a waterhole.

Friday 15 May 2015 Addo Elephant to Struisbaai

We left the park at 7:00 am and made our way to the South Gate. We spotted lots of warthogs but not as much game as when we came in. The elephants were there to bid the princess farewell.

We went to our B&B to collect a pack of beers we’d left in the fridge and the headed to Jeffrey’s Bay where we met Jim and Maureen at In Food Bakery for breakfast. It was so good to see them and hear about their wonderful experiences in Etosha and Kgalagadi. Their friend Joy also joined us a little later.

The breakfasts were delicious. I ordered paoched eggs, spinach and salmon which came with a croissant. Hold the croissant I told the waitress. Would you like Banting bread instead, she offered. Banting bread? Well why not – if it’s awful I just won’t eat it. Well it was delicious! One could eat it without butter or jam as it tasted like a savoury loaf on its own. Yummy – Banting certainly is an easy and satisfying diet to follow.

Don’t ask if I’ve lost weight – I don’t think much – I’ve been eating too much – I’m on holiday after all! But I’ve felt good and not at all hungry. I definitely have not put on any weight and I’m really doing this for health and not reduction reasons. But I am hoping the belly fat will miraculously disappear eventually! Even in my sixties I care! The plan is to be stricter about the orange list and the amount we eat when we settle in Struisbaai in July.

We arrived in Struisbaai at 5, unpacked the essentials and made a braai for supper. We watched TV for a bit and then collapsed into bed.

Saturday 16 May 2015 Homeward Bound

Earl did all the things needed at the house this morning and by 10:30 we were on the road for home. We stopped in Bredasdorp to refuel, pay an account and shop for takkies for Laurie. The latter two were unsuccessful as there was load shedding and the municipality didn’t open on Saturdays!

We dropped the Princess off at her flat at 1:15 and we arrived in Sun Valley at 2:00 pm. Another wonderful trip under the belt!