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Taking the Kids to Kruger – Skukuza

FRIDAY 30 MARCH 2012

Earl was so exhausted last night that he could hardly eat so we decided to make a late start this morning.  I thought this would mean – leave camp at about 9 a.m. but he was totally refreshed when we woke up and our ‘late’ start was at 6:30 instead of 5:30!

Although each day in Kruger has its special moments, some days can be slow with little game appearing. Yesterday was such a day and I knew that if we didn’t do something to keep the kids interested we’d have some rioting in the car.  So we started straight away with the points for first sightings and the competition was on!

Our first excitement were elephants crossing in front of us – they’re a favourite with the kids although they get the adrenalin going when they get too close.

Then buck – not impala – a different buck – Jay called out in excitement – and there on the side of the road was a lovely Male Bushbuck – so different from the female they’d seen yesterday at Afsaal. That earned him 5 points as it’s not a common one to see.

Jay kept ahead with spotting birds and animals first but Shannon was better at naming them.   Josh insisted that the people in front had an advantage but Jay still seemed to beat me to it.  We laughed when he then insisted that it was because he was on the wrong side of the car.

Of course when he won 10 points for finding Granny a Marico Sunbird no mention of unfair advantages was made.

The competition certainly kept the eyes glued the bush and we saw lots of wonderful things in the time that it took us to travel from Skukuza to Nkulu picnic site.

Female Red-backed shrike with breakfast

Bad hair day for this hamerkop

Nkulu is on a river bank and we love stopping here.   The only problem is that the monkeys are rather naughty and you have to be very careful that your breakfast isn’t stolen. Our attention was distracted by a green-backed heron on the opposite bank when our order was placed on the table. Fellow tourists yelled a warning when a cheeky Vervet snatched half a toasted cheese sandwich from Joshua’s plate!

He was horrified but placated when I offered him my chips and half a toasted chicken mayonnaise. Shannon told us she didn’t really like monkeys – they scared her and a large male must have sensed this as he actually threatened her with a grunt and a made a move toward her.   Earl shouted and she hid behind me giggling nervously.

Cheeky monkey enjoying Joshua's breakfast

Jay is enjoying Nkulu's famous buffalo pie

As soon as we’d eaten we packed up left over buffalo pies and sandwiches and continued our journey.   Shan was sitting up front with me.  We stopped to photograph some very young monkeys and Shan was really enjoying them until Earl pointed to a big one right next to her window – she started to wind up the window and I said – “no – don’t I just want to snap his portrait”  she burst into tears and leapt over onto Earl’s lap.  I think the incident at the Nkulu upset her more than we realised.   After a cuddle and comforting words she was fine again and we warned the boys not to tease her about monkeys, please!

We had further fun with primates when we stopped on a bridge and a troop of baboons had the kids in fits of laughter with their antics – chasing each other, play fighting and tumbling and almost 0ff the bridge.

They then went and climbed the sandy cliffs and foraged for termites or whatever lives in the bank.

There were other interesting things to see in the water too.  Simon spotted a legawaan on the rocks and another where the monkeys were climbing up and down the bank.

A Goliath heron patiently fished in some fast running water

Birds of prey earned our young spotters lots of points and gave us an opportunity to teach them how to tell one from another.
The brown snake eagle has yellow eyes and feathers only to its knees while the lesser spotted eagle  has ‘stove pipes’ , pale eyes and yellow feet.  And the don’t be too convinced that you’re right – all birds of prey are tricky to identify – even the experts make mistakes.  But the martial is unmistakable with its black chest and white, speckled tummy.

Brown Snake Eagle

Lesser Spotted Eagle

Martial Eagle

At Sunset Dam the challenge was to see how many crocodiles you could count – they camouflage so well and perhaps there were more than the 10 we got.   Plenty of hippos lazed and grunted in the shallows and the shore birds gave us lots of pleasure.

Wood sandpiper

Common Sandpiper

After a refreshing drink at Lower Sabie we made our way home.  Simon had been as good as gold but was now starting to ask when he could go for a swim.  It was really hot today.

The elephants could not let us off lightly today – a rather angry looking bull decided not to make way for us as he trundled down the middle of the tar road.   We had to reverse until he found a place that suited him to get off the road.   A lovely adrenalin rush to end the day!

After the kids had a swim we went to the nearby hide of Lake Panic for just half an hour.  There were hippos and birds but at this time of year not the variety that we usually see.    Still it was good to see that no damage had been done by the floods.

A thunder storm cooled things down this evening but put rather a dampener on our braai.   Jay stripped to his waist and used a storage box lid to prevent the fire from going out while he finished off cooking our chicken.

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Taking the Kids to Kruger – Berg en Dal to Skukuza

THURSDAY 29 March 2012 BERG EN DAL TO SKUKUZA

The phone alarm disturbed my peaceful dreams and got me out of bed at 4:30 a.m.  Once everything was ready for packing, we woke the kids, gave them breakfast, made sure nothing was left behind and got them into the car.   The weather was warm but overcast and it had rained in the night.   We had some drizzle during the day but it was still hot!

Our first interesting bird sighting was of a pair of crested francolin.

Crested Francolin

Crossing a low-level bridge we found a common sandpiper and a water thick-knee.

Common Sandpiper

Water Thick-knee

Dwarf mongoose often take over abandoned anthills and our cutest sighting got everyone going – ooh – how sweet!

Dwarf Mongoose

Things were becoming a little boring as we passed bush after bush and strained our eyes searching into the long glass for some sort of creature to appear.   Then I saw across the river a load of elephants storming down to drink and swim.   We watched them through the trees then realised that they were going to cross the river and come up onto the road in front of us.  It was an enormous herd of about 60 jumbos and they raised their trunks and trumpeted as they came stumbling up the bank towards us.  Simon was suddenly frozen into silence on my lap.  Shannon beseeched them – please don’t hurt us – we just want to look at you!   They just stared at us, waved their trunks and then trundled past in front and behind the car.  The children were awed and when they were gone, Simon said, “That really freaked me out!”    It was awesome to see such a big herd with ellies of all ages from tiny babies to great big mommies.

The excitement of that awesome sighting stayed with us for a while.  Then Joshua spotted and Shannon identified an immature bateleur. (The competition for being the first to spot and name the birds is great!)

After the recent flooding in the Kruger National Park, some bridges were damaged and to our horror we found the one we wanted to cross still not repaired.  Our choice was to retrace our route or take a road that is only open to visitors to Biyamati Bush Lodge.   Another car was in the same predicament so jointly we decided to take the out of bounds road. We would not usually do this but there were not warnings that the road was closed so this would be our excuse if caught.   (We weren’t)

On the way we found buffalo, rhino, kudu, impala, some birds but nothing else.

We stopped at Afsaal for brunch and then continued to Skukuza.  We found warthog, giraffe and zebra, more kudu and impala, a kori bustard – but not good enough for a photograph and of course many birds.

Black-collared Barbet

Dark-capped bulbul

Brown-hooded kingfisher

We checked into family cottage 229 which consisted of two en suite bedrooms and a spacious living area.   We moved the extra bed in our room to the second bedroom so the cousins could all be together.

After settling in, lunch and a nap we took a walk next to the river and found a few birds, then went to the shop.

Simon said the best part of his day was having an ice-cream and moving into the cottage!