More touring in our own backyard – Struisbaai, Elim, Gansbaai, Buffelsjag and Die Dam

2015-10-25 | puppy1952

The morning dawned bright and sunny and Maureen and I set off at 7 for a walk towards Cape Agulhas – half an hour out and half an hour back. We arrived back to a delicious breakfast cooked by Earl. The wind was coming up so it was decided that a fishing trip was not an option. Instead we set off on another birding adventure. This time we followed the gravel road to Elim then made our way to Gansbaai returning via Buffelsjacht and Die Dam.

Our Route – We left at 10 and returned at 6

We set our goal to 60 birds but hoped to better that.

The first bird of the day was a flying yellow-billed kite and we continued to see plenty of them all day. In the winter our most common bird of prey was a jackal buzzard with just the odd YBK so lovely to see them so active in the area now.

There is a lot of temporary water lying around from the winter rains and this attracts birds but means the permanent water is less productive than usual.

We find a lovely reed cormorant sunning himself near a puddle next to the Elim road.

We pass through the Agulhas National Park and so often see ostriches. Today we found them right on the road.

Mom hurried the chicks and warned them of the dangers of canned people

Mom hurried the chicks along and warned them of the dangers of canned people

Lots of legs and only one head?

Come and help me with this lot, please Dad!

We took a short detour towards the salt pans to find the flamingos and were successful but they were too far for good photographs. On our way back to the Elim road, Maureen yelled – Secretary Bird and we managed to spot two but they ran off very quickly. Mega tick for the day!

We saw a secretary bird just like this but didn’t get the photo! This is from a previous occasion

The birding was good and we soon had quite a long list but mostly we enjoyed just watching the antics of the birds.

yellow-billed ducks trying to hide from us

We also enjoyed spotting the odd mammal

Rheebok are common in Agulhas National Park and on some of the farms in the area

Levaillant’s Cisticola

White-faced ducks are not that common in the area

By the time we arrived in Gansbaai the wind had got up and was blowing strongly. We went to the Great White House for coffee and muffins/croissants. The patio area was sheltered and we enjoyed the sun on our backs and watched the sunbirds, weavers and witogies drinking at the feeder.

Gansbaai is famous for its shark cage diving and whale watching tours. We watched a boat come in and I spoke to one or two of the passengers when they disembarked from the wale watching trip. It had not been pleasant in the very choppy waters and many were sea-sick – but don’t be put off – choose a calm day and the experience can be amazing!

A whale watching boat coming in from a very rough sea

In the harbour

A tractor pulls them out

I find a white-fronted plover scampering about on the harbour wall

We continue exploring the coastline and find some more interesting birds

A little egret find sea fishing productive

Two gorgeous oyster catchers

A hartlaub’s gull in breeding plumage

At Buffelsjacht we spot whales in the bay.

A gull with a mussel

A swift tern takes a bath

The beach at Die Dam

the dune above the beach

It was an exciting day and by the time we got to Die Dam we had over 60 bird species on our list. We were pretty tired but the challenge now was to beat 70 which we had got with Tommy and Megan a few weeks ago. Just when we thought we’d seen all the possibles for one day we had some really fun sightings.

A distant but obliging Denham’s Bustard

Two Caspian Terns

Our national bird posed beautifully in the dam

A green shank

We finally ended up with 72 species which pleased us enormously.

We cooked a Banting Cottage Pie for supper and all opted for an early night!

The Overberg and surrounds – Tourists in our own backyard

2015-10-19 | puppy1952

There is nothing like having visitors to prompt you into visiting places that are all too familiar but still exciting to explore.

Now that we are residing in the picturesque, fishing village of Struisbaai at the tip of Africa and a three hour drive from our former home, Cape Town, we welcome having friends to stay. Last week Tony and Sharon were our guests for a midweek break and what fun we had.

The weather was not perfect but at least the rain held off and it was not too cold. On Wednesday set off to visit Elim 36 km away. Of course we birded on the way there and back!

Blue Crane

Red-billed teal

Elim was established in 1824 by German missionaries as a Moravian mission station. The grew vines in the viticulture suitable terrain so as to produce their own wine for communion. The he missionaries taught the villagers a variety of trades and skills. Thatching was a skill they mastered and to this day Elim thatchers are recruited to from all over the world.

The village is picturesque and has changed little over the years. The thatched whitewashed cottages are typical fo their homes. All the roads in the village lead to the thatch roofed church. The community, still mainly Moravian, consists of farmers, artisans and farmers.

Elim is becoming known for the export of fynbos, and as an emerging area in the production of wine.

We visited the museum which has some fascinating exhibits.

Implements from a bygone age

The waterwheel

We loved this cart with a licence plate!

Typical kitchen from long ago

Sharon showing how lowly she can be

On Thursday, after a delicious “Early” breakfast we set off for the historic town of Swellendam wich was declared a magisterial district in 1743. It was the fourth oldest in South Africa, and was named after Governor Hendrik Swellengrebel who was the first South African born Governor, and his wife, Helena Ten Damme. This outlying settlement was the gateway to the interior, and was visited by many famous explorers and travellers including Francois Le Vaillant a noted ornithologist (1781).

A village was established beyond the Drostdy, where artisans including numerous wainwrights, blacksmiths, coopers and traders settled. Swellendam was the last outpost of Dutch civilisation on the eastern frontier and thus the services of the residents of the town were of utmost importance.

Our first stop after a scenic drive from Struisbaai was The Old Mill Restaurant. We wanted to sit in the garden but it had rained and the seats were wet so we settled for an indoor table and ordered coffee and milk tart. Inside the menu we found a touching trip report written by one of the staff. They had all been taken to The Kruger National Park and surrounds to do a training course. What an amazing experience they had flying for the first time, seeing fascinating wildlife and exploring a part of our land that they’d only dreamed of. And what a lot they learned about their trade too. The piece was written with such warmth and appreciation of every aspect of the experience. It’s worth going to this restaurant just to read it!

Earl and Sharon next to the lovely fireplace

Feeling refreshed we went to the Drosdy Museum and really enjoyed all the exhibits and re-informed ourselves of our South African history.

Sharon emerging from the Cooper’s cottage

Sharon thinks I should crochet a spread like this!

Tony and Sharon in the court room of the original drosdy

Tony and Sharon in the court room of the original landrost

Earl wants this for his hearse

He says I can have this one

A very old Singer Sewing Machine

At ‘The Whipping Post’ restaurant (It was the old gaol) we found this stunning patio furniture which I fancy having here in Struisbaai!

We spent a good few hours exploring Swellendam and I can recommend it as a destination especially if you have an interest in things historical. There is also a pottey you could visit and we popped into an art gallery too. The exhibits were interesting and if I could choose I would have take this.

The weather was cooling down quite rapidly by the time we left and made our way to The Bontebok National Park. There was not too much to see but we were thrilled that we saw its star performers plus a few other creatures.

Star of the show

And some of his friends

The flora is stunning

Southern Black Korhaan

Back in Struisbaai we popped into the harbour and took a photograph of the stingrays cruising beneath the surface.

Such a beautiful harbour

On Friday Sharon and I made the most of the most glorious morning and walked to Agulhas.

View on our walk

The men met just over an hour later and we did the compulsory standing on the southern tip thing, took a scenic drive to Suiderstrand and then had breakfast at Potpourri.

Our Southernmost Friends

Me with the Agulhas rocks in the background

It was a lovely end to to a brilliant visit with our friends.

Struisbaai Gathering of Three Generations – Birding with the Locals

2014-12-18 | puppy1952

I love the early mornings but up at quarter to five stretches it a bit when you’re on holiday! No just kidding when it comes to birding it’s definitely the best time of the day. Earl and I met up with 10 other crazy people and had a wonderful birding excursion led by Dr Wim de Klerk. We discovered that this outing was happening on a notice of events for the month of December displayed in the mall.

Arthur and Wally kindly offered to accommodate us in the former’s vehicle and we explored the edges of bodies of water and the salt pans using the car as a hide and getting out when appropriate.

This Agulhas National Park hosts a variety of habitat types and great biodiversity as far as birds are concerned. The patches of renosterveld host large numbers of Black Harriers and we saw them flying and two perched in a tree. Agulhas Long-billed Lark is a special for this area and we managed to see him briefly too. We also saw a number of marsh harriers. One of our target birds was the African Snipe and were delighted to find that too.

The Spotted Eagle owl greeted us at our meeting place

Many Spurwinged geese flew overhead – they are plentiful in this area

Kittlitz plovers were wading on the edges of the water and also further away

Kittlitz’s plovers were wading on the edges of the water and also further away

Our Fellow Birders

We had to get quite deep into the veld

Some young black-shouldered kites were still being cared for by their parents

Some young black-shouldered kites on the nest. Their parents were about still finding food for them.

Some curlew sandpipers

Purple Swamphen

African Snipe

Pelicans on the salt pan – Kelp gulls in the foreground

There were hundreds of Lesser flamingos - quite unusual to see so many

There were hundreds of Lesser flamingos – quite unusual to have them in this area

The vulnerable Denham’s bustard made an appearance

Wally is a really fun guy and I just loved his hat with its Ostrich Plume

Earl and I were really welcomed by this group of people. We will definitely get in touch again when we start spending more time in Struisbaai. Thanks to all, especially Emerentia (organiser) Arthur (driver) and Wim (leader) for including us on this wonderful outing.

We called it a day at 11 and Earl and I went to the Aviator’s Restaurant for breakfast. An ex-pilot runs it and has an old plane that he intends mounting on the roof! He also has a flying school and takes people on scenic flights. Struisbaai certainly is a unique place with something for everybody.

Women’s Day Weekend in Struisbaai – Part Two

2013-08-10 | puppy1952

It was a lazy start to the day this morning. The sun was up and shining again but the chill had not left the air so we lingered longer in our warm beds. I had my usual craving for croissants and the boys did their best to locate some. OK Grocer apologised but were not making them this weekend! Instead they came home with herby bread rolls, ham and cottage cheese. I was a bit miffed but when the lovely rolls were put before me all was forgiven.

Sharon tucking into brekkei

Sharon and I took a walk to the Struisbaai Mall and visited South Bound Gift Shop – always a fun place to browse around. The men caught up with us a little later and we shopped for a ‘snippermaandjie” (waste paper basket) and found a suitable one at the hardware shop. It is amazing what Struisbaai has to offer in the way of shopping these days. I wanted to show Sharon the Fish Shop and had no intention of buying anything but there were products on demo and after tasting this and that we left with a small haul – green fig preserve, mango mustard, olive chutney and whatnot.

A Smorgasbord of choice

The Fish Shop the meets all your fish requirements from bait, fresh caught fish and cooked take aways to items that you need to cook your own catch

There is some controversy as to where the Atlantic and Indian actually meet – The owner clearly believes it’s not here and I agree with him!

Later in the afternoon we took a drive to Suiderstrand and a long walk (over and hour) along the beach toward and beyond the Agulhas National Park Rest Camp where we stayed a few weeks ago. (See earlier Blog)

The scenery was to die. The pebbly beach proved challenging on the feet but the sound of the sea rumbling on them in the shallows was like nautical music to our ears.

Sweep of the coastline

Smooth white pebbles underfoot

Fishermen trying their luck

We left the shells where they belong

Enjoying the sunshine

The threatened African Black Oyster Catcher

Ignoring the breaking waves

Keep up please, Darling

We know we’re a handsome couple

White-fronted plovers

After all this strenuous exercise we’d worked up a healthy appetite. Chef Earl was keen to try out some more of his culinary skills and once again presented us with a delicious supper which was followed by fresh berries and yogurt.

Sadly tomorrow is pack up day and its back to Cape Town and normal life (and food) once more!

Weekend at Agulhas National Park

2013-07-24 | puppy1952

As if I haven’t been spoilt enough with overseas travel and being whisked away for a romantic reunion, I found myself off on another lovely weekend with my amazing husband. My school rented our house in Struisbaai for the Prefects’ Leadership training and needed someone to help with the fishing activity. We have always wanted to check out Agulhas National Park Rest camp so Earl volunteered to do the fishing with the kids and we booked into the rest camp.

We left home at 10 to 3 and had a pleasant drive arriving just before six. We booked in at the Sanparks office in Agulhas and then dropped the trailer off at our house in Struisbaai, said Hi to the teachers and boys staying there and then got Pizza from a a local plekkie in Struisbaai and headed to Suiderstrand where the Rest Camp is located.

The Pizza Place

The keys were waiting for us at the gate which is manned 24/7. It was dark when we arrived and very cold. We quickly unpacked and then enjoyed our pizzas before snuggling into our lovely big warm bed. No electric blanket but there was a heater!

Suiderstrand is about 10km from the Agulhas Light House. Accommodation comprises four two-bed and four four-bed self-catering chalets. Our two bed thatched wooden chalet was stunning. The kitchen was fully equipped with a microwave oven and two plate electric cooker. The fridge was big and there was little need to bring anything from home. It had a lovely fireplace and a weber for braaing.

The living area

Cosy Bedroom

Front Deck

The view was amazing. The weather was very cold and windy on Saturday but on Sunday it was still and sunny and we took a long walk along the pristine beach and then back through the fynbos.

On Saturday afternoon we went to Struisbaai and Earl did the fishing activity with the prefects on the beach. It was windy but the kids did not seem to mind. They had a wonderful time and one team caught a smooth hound shark which caused great excitement.

Earl Mentoring the next generation

The smooth hound shark

On Saturday evening Earl cooked a chicken in the Weber with sweet potatoes and lots of lovely vegetables. Dessert was nougat and rooibos tea in bed! In spite of having a fire it was freezing!

As I mentioned before Sunday was a stunning day – isn’t that typical – the day you need to leave is the day the weather improves! But it did give us a taste of what it can be like at this resort in good weather.