Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Tuesday 31 March 2015

2015-04-22 | puppy1952

Today is our last full day in the park. We are up at the usual early hour of 5:15 and ready to leave by 6:15. From tomorrow gate opening time moves to 7:00 am.

It is still overcast but the air temperature is warm. We take the Rooiputs Road. Just before Rooiputs Jim and Maureen stop ahead of us. I look to the right and spot one cheetah, then Earl says there is one in the tree – then a second one jumps down from the tree. We watch the three cheetah play and roll and generally get going for the morning. Soon other cars gather and we all jostle for position while watching what the cheetahs will do. Eventually they make their way to the ridge and disappear.

At 7:15 we find a tawny eagle that is very photographable. There is a Lanner in the same tree.

At quarter to eight we find the same two male lions we saw yesterday. They are fat and lazy and do very little but sleep. We wonder where the females are and Earl finds them on a distant dune but they do not make a proper appearance. After watching the more wakeful male do his ablutions we move on as the loo is calling.

At Melkvlei we have a brief loo break then move on to see if we can find the other cheetahs but don’t have any luck so we return to Melkvlei for breakfast.

Later we find one of the males on the move. We hear the first one had already gone over the ridge.

We then make our way back to Twee Rivieren stopping to enjoy the smaller things.

Back at camp, I do the laundry and make sandwiches for lunch. The Pearl Spotted owl is back in our tree and while photographing him I find a brubru as well. Earl takes a nap and I wander around camp to do some birding. When he wakes he joins me. We then go for a short drive to find more birds. We do find a Brant’s Whistling Rat!

Brubru

Groundscraper Thrush

Ground Squirrel emerging from his hole

Brant’s Whistling Rat

Secretary Bird on top of tree

Scaly Feathered Finch

For supper Maureen makes a delicious lamb chop curry. We turn in at 9. Tomorrow we will wake a little later, pack up and leave KTP at about 9.

Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Monday 30 March 2015

2015-04-21 | puppy1952

It rained during the night and it is quite chilly when we wake up this morning. However, I still think shorts will be okay. Luckily I take a fleece with me as the weather does not warm up above 20 degrees C.
Earl goes ahead to wait in the queue while I go to the loo. As I walk towards reception I notice that two cars are already lining up at the gate. This means that they did not hand in their permits last night and are illegally up front! The rest of us wait for the gate staff to arrive and check us out before we can drive to the game area gate! Jim should be first but is now third and Earl is fourth. We take the Rooiputs road and have a brief encounter with some playful jackal.
At quarter to eight we see the illegal starters stopped on the side of the road – they are looking at lion.
The first one I spot is a big male.

then Earl points out two females near to him. They are just lying there in on the dune.
Another male is short way away fast asleep. While we watch, the females get up and go up onto the ridge. Then three more come over to meet them. We can hear roaring and suspect there is another male somewhere.
We watch the male get up take a walk and find a puddle to drink from but nothing else special happens so we move on.

A few kilometres on we find a female crouching in hunting mode at the crest of the dune. We watch her for a while but do not see what she is stalking so we move on.

Martial Eagle

We stop at Melkvlei for a loo break and then decide to retrace our route and take the Dune road to Achterlonie. We find the same female and hear a roar. At first we think a male is calling her but then see that she is the one making the din!
On the Dune road we are delighted to see that beautiful yellow flowers have sprung up after the rains. I think they are called Dubbeltjies.

We see korhaan and Kori Bustards and two Spurwinged geese fly overhead. Some ant-eating chats don’t like the tawny that perches in their territory.

Two jackal puppies are exploring unattended by their parents. They seem nervous of the car at first and then ignore us and continue their antics. They are so cute one feels that one can pick them up and take them home for pets.

We have breakfast at Achterlonie and take a look at the old historic cottage. It is so cold that we eat in the car.
The rest of our trip produces very little and we are back at camp by 12:30. At half past three we decide to go to The Kgalagadi lodge for a late lunch instead of cooking supper tonight. We are delighted with our meals – pepper steaks for Jim, Maureen and Earl and I have an Adam and Eve – Rump steak with green fig and blue cheese sauce.

When we return Earl and I decide to take a quick drive to the waterhole – but stay out longer than we planned! We try to find yesterday’s caracal without success but enjoy a bit of bird-watching. The highlight is a martial eagle and when we get back into the gate we find black-faced wax-bills.

Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Sunday 29 March 2015

2015-04-21 | puppy1952

There is great resistance to rising early this morning and Earl lies in a little later while I am off to the showers at 5:30. I hear later that Jim felt the same way! As we wait in line for to collect our permits, Maureen says – It’s so overcast today – we probably won’t see very much – not the right conditions. Don’t be so sure, I say, anything can happen – the bush is unpredictable! We go through the gate as dawn is breaking and a brilliant red sky greets us, Earl says – I don’t see the point of these early starts! No self-respecting animal will be at the waterholes and there is so much water lying about they don’t even need to be near the roads! Blah-blah, moan-moan. I smile sweetly and offer to drive which is met with firm no thank you. It is 7 am and what is this up ahead. Jim and another car are stopped and as we approach I call out – Lion – no cheetah! Three are crouched together chewing something in the dirt. The animals tend to lick the dust for its salt content. We cannot make out anything else edible. We watch the three interact and have fun and the scene is on the correct side of the road in the golden light! There is a single gemsbok on the dune watching carefully, fully aware that he could become breakfast. The trio suddenly get up and one by one start walking towards the dune. We follow and hope to see a chase but not today. The gemsbok decides that caution is the better part of valour and gallops off. A little further on we Jim stops. We catch up and see a jackal taking off. But wait there are two more and they’re on a kill! Did they take down this springbok on their own – I think not. It was probably a leopard. The jackals tear at it and one by one as they satiate themselves quickly leave the scene. This is a pretty good start to our day. Let us content ourselves with birding now as there can’t possibly be anything more exciting in store. It is 8:30 and what do we see? More cheetahs – but on the East side of the road – into the sun. There are 5 of them – Mother and four teenager kittens. And they are eating a fresh kill of Gemsbok! How lucky are we! We watch them and photograph them for ages. The cheeky jackals are hovering and trying to get a paw in. But the mother chases them off. The tawny eagles – three of them fly in and try to make a grab but Mom jumps into the air to frighten them off. The little ones scrap and fight for dominance of the kill. Then Mom comes to get her share, disciplining the greedy kids. Every now and then she chases the jackals away. Then all of a sudden all five of them take off across the road with us following and disappear over the hill. We realise that something has frightened them off and return to the scene to find a male lion making a meal of the left overs. Clearly the howling of the jackals have alerted him to the fact that a canteen is open nearby. We watch the lion feast and then walk off. He finds a puddle of water and drinks for a while then walks back and over the dune and disappear. What an amazing sighting. We continue to Melkvlei for breakfast and then retrace our steps to find the kill site awash with vultures and tawny eagles. Wow! Jim and Maureen are ahead of us but we waste time watching baby ostrich and then slowly follow on. At the site of the jackal kill from this morning we find more vultures and take photographs of three different species. At Rooiputs waterhole we find the wildebeest having a Sunday afternoon nap. We try to catch up with Jim but he is way ahead Earl yells – Lynx – and a caracal crosses in front of us with a ground squirrel in his jaws. Omigosh! I am beside myself trying to get a photograph but he darts up the dune and disappear. I’ve lost my opportunity. Let’s wait and see, I say to Earl. He may appear and sure enough he emerges from behind a tree and looks at us – kill hanging from his mouth.

Poor ground squirrel

We keep him in our sights until he settles under a distant tree. The squirrel is behind him and he is panting to regain his breath. We manage few poor photographs and watch to see if he will feast upon his prey – but clearly he is saving it till later.

Tired after the chase

No other car comes by and we need to move on. Around the corner we see “Boshuisie” – grandparents in a campervan with their little grandchild. We stop them and tell them where to find the caracal. Follow us, we say, we will turn around and show you exactly where Two other cars appear and we show them all where to find the caracal. I persuade Earl to turn into the waterhole and we find two birds – a greenshank and double banded plover. Back at camp Jim and Maureen are just tucking into their lunch. We tell them about our special sighting then make chicken sandwiches for our own lunch. We plan to bird in the camp but the rains come and we only manage to get the pearl spotted rain lets up enough for me to cook and for us to eat our meal. Earl and I drive to the ablutions to shower and do our teeth and by the time we return the rain is coming down – much needed in this dry environment.

Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Twee Rivieren Saturday 28 March 2015

2015-04-20 | puppy1952

The rain seems to be holding off and there is no wind at all today. We go out early as usual and take the Mata Mata Road until the Dune Road turnoff and then take that. It is a very successful drive as far as birds are concerned. Once again I will let the photographs tell the story.

An early morning Tawny Eagle

Black Shouldered Kite

Elegant Giraffe striding up the dune bank

Earl has not yet filled up with Diesel so we do not go any further than Melkvlei which is largely flooded but we find a table that is on dry ground and have a late breakfast there. On our return trip we have some interesting sightings. A tortoise and springbok find the road puddles convenient drinking places.

The Springbok eyes the tortois with suspicion

The tortoise decides to make way for the springbok

The thirsty bokkie can now take a drink

Soon after this Earl nearly jumps out of the window when he spots a cobra right in front of the car. We get some good photos of him before he slithers off into the bush toward a secretary bird. They haven’t seen each other but if the sec bird spots the snake he will become lunch!

The secretary is contemplating something – lunch or a bath?

No – the secretary is more interested in his abutions.

Refreshingly cool on a hot day

Tip toe out

And shake the feathers

Back at camp we go to the shop which is better stocked than Mata Mata and Nossob. We get hot pies and ice creams for lunch – what a treat!

We spent the afternoon in camp catching up with chores and diary writing etc. For supper we pooled ingredients and Maureen cooked us a delicious chicken stew.

Caravanning in The Kgalagadi Friday 27 March 2015 Polentswa to Twee Rivieren

2015-04-19 | puppy1952

Friday 27 march 2015 polentswa to twee rivieren

It is a long drive to Twee Rivieren and we are packed up and ready to leave by 6:40. We stop off at Nossob to refuel and find out if the road south has suffered any damage from the storm There is no diesel! Fortunately we have enough to get us there with some to spare!

The sightings are mainly bird. There are the usual gemsbok, springbok and plenty of red hartebeest about but otherwise nothing particularly exciting. The pictures below will tell the story.

Red Hartebeest

We find the campsite very full at TR. Our site is small and we are cheek to jowl with other campers but we all have sufficient shade. We do not have an electrical outlet nearby but we have two long leads and so the men make a plan with a long extension lead.

Once we have unpacked we check in at reception and then drive 5km to the Kgalagadi Safari Lodge where they have a wonderful shop with fresh produce! What a treat to find a variety of fruit and vegetables as well as bread, yogurt and plenty of other things that are unavailable in the park! We are like kids in a candy store as we pick and choose – goodbye canned food!

After our shopping we sit on the deck and enjoy sundowners before returning to camp.

To our surprise and delight we find that the Bush Lapa Caravan next to our site belongs to Daan and Jeanette. We do not realise it is theirs until they return from their game drive. It is their last night in the park and we all braai together – Maureen does the butternut, Jeanette the potato salad and I make a Greek Salad. We have a delightful evening around Jeanette and Daan’s table and a firm friendship is forged. Hopefully we will catch up with them in Wellington sometime in the future.

Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Polentswa Thursday 26 March 2015

2015-04-18 | puppy1952

Thursday 26 march 2015

It is a lovely morning once again and we go out for an early morning drive. The owl is in his usual place, screaming for food from Mom.

We drive 5 km north and then turn around and go to Koussant Water Hole but do not see anything too exciting. We enjoy the birds, however, and are delighted to see that there is so much water around. The KTP really needed these rains. It does mean that the animals don’t need to come to the waterholes and are making themselves scarce. There is quite a bit of devastation after the storm and we find blown down trees across the road. Fortunately there are detours that we can take round therm.

We are once again fascinated to find water birds in the dessert. Isn’t it amazing how creatures instinctively know where there are new water venues! We have fun watching the jacana hawking in a puddle in the middle of the road.

Not often seen in the Kgalagadi – A juvenile black-winged stilt

We return to camp for brunch and have bacon and egg sandwiches. Later in the afternoon, M and J decide to stay in camp to complete their packing and Earl and I go for a birding drive. The results can be seen in the photographs below!

Red Hartebeest confrontation

Three-banded plover

scaly-feathered finch

Familiar Chat

Lesser Grey Shrike

Caravanning in the Kgalagadi – Polentswa Wednesday 25 March 2015

2015-04-17 | puppy1952

We wake to the sound of roaring lions this morning. I look out to see Jim shining his torch into the bush while standing guard at the long drop. I think the lions are just behind the tree but Earl assures me that they are far away.
We go south all the way to Nossob 60 km away. There is still a lot of water on the road and we see very little game.

At Polentswa we have been very frugal with our water supplies and showering has been limited to 30 second splash downs. So as soon as we get to Nossob we go the the ablutions for a shower. Joy of joy we find that the geyser system has been repaired and we have loads of hot water.
We then go to refuel and shop. I go ahead while he is at the filling station. When he comes in, he says – where is our envelope of cash? On our way here I’d checked how much there was and put it back in the cubby hole. It’s not there he says. Men! They look with boy eyes. I go and check, search and search – no envelope! It must have been stolen. But the wallet, iPad, cell phones, cameras are all untouched. I begin to doubt myself. Did I drop the envelope out of the car? I return to the ablution block and search around the area where we were parked. I report the loss to reception. The attendant asks me Where did you last have the cash? You must check your car thoroughly. But after all 4 do us search nothing turns up. Maureen pays for our purchases then we search again. I am sure I put the envelope on top of the handbook which sits on a bracket in the cubby hole. Maureen feels down the back of the cubby and declares that she can feel something, eRl tries too and agrees with her but is it the envelope? There is no way of grabbing it or reaching it I any way so we go to the picnic site, enjoy our brekkie and decide to take the cubby apart when we get back to camp. Our men have tools for the job.

001 Day Visitor Area - Nossob 2015-03-25 09-55-14 AM 4608x3456

Picnic Breakfast at Nossob Visitors’ Area

Our return it is heartening to see lots of game. The rainfall has brought them back. But no cats again today.

003 Red Hartebeest with Gnu 2015-03-25 12-52-21 PM 3069x2304

We often see just one wildebeest with a herd of another species

003 Red Hartebeest 2015-03-25 12-51-35 PM 4608x3456

Lovely herd of red hartebeest with young

Water everywhere

002 Red Hartebeest drinking from a road puddly 2015-03-25 12-20-51 PM 4608x3456

Just wait while I finish my drink, please

We return to camp and as Maureen is about to step into her caravan she spots something curled up next to her fridge. She leaps away nimbly and yells – snake!

004 Puff Adder 2015-03-25 01-23-52 PM 3456x4608

Lazy, fat puff adder – luckily fast asleep

I grab my camera, Earl runs with a tent pole yelling Don’t worry I’ll catch it. Jim also bravely approaches the spot while M and I scream don’t let it bite you. We don’t have snake bite kits. The macho men approach and Earl hooks him onto the pole and flings him away and onto the ground. The snake refuses to scurry off so he lifts him again and throws him under a tree where it curls up and goes back to sleep. My hero!

After the excitement dies down Maureen washes last nights supper dishes and I dry. Then Earl and Jim get going worth torque keys and screw drivers. There is much grunting and groaning and struggling, but the task is not as easy as they hoped. Maureen calls Jim for lunch but Earl refuses to give up. I fear that the effort is for naught and my fears are confirmed when he manages to get his hand behind the cubby and says there is nothing here. But he struggles on and although he doesn’t get the cubby hole free he manages to free it a little more. I can see it he yells and Jim brings a pair of pliers. He grips the envelope and to my delight R3500 is returned to my grateful hands. For the second time today my hubby is my hero.

He then cooks us bacon and egg sandwiches and we sit and relax while watching lightening and listening g to thunder. The storm is some miles away but within minutes a bright flash of lightening and deafening clap of thunder warn us and E says we had better get to the caravan now. He and Maureen pack the chairs under her shelter and I run and put everything that’s out away and shut up our kitchen. Just as we shut the door the rain comes pelting down and an enormous wind violently rocks the caravan. After 5 minutes it gets worse and rips the tent poles out of the ground and the tarpaulin rips free from the Velcro. Earl rushes out to rescue what he can. Jim’s solar panels are whipped up by the wind and a Earl chases after them too. Jim rushes out to help. Our tent poles are be bent and the hooks scattered around the campsite. It’s all over in 20 minutes and then the mopping up begins. Not too much damage but we decide to do without the extra side tarpaulin for now. Earl is my hero yet again.
The rain clears and there is calm once again.

Our hero enjoying a well deserved drink after all the drama of the day!

In the evening we have a braai. As we turn in for the night we hear Maureen scream – it’s back and it hissed at me. Earl calls out – Just hang on – I’m coming – He tries to get his head torch on but the strap comes loose – it’s seems like hours but is only seconds before I help him get it together again – he rushes forth with braai tongs in hand and he and Jim march off like Vikings into the night to make sure the snake does not return.

Caravanning in the Kgalagadi – Nossob Thursday 19 March 2015

2015-04-11 | puppy1952

Today is a rest day. We go out early in a southerly direction and try to find the lions but we have no luck and find out later that nobody else had a particularly successful day today either.

The highlight of the drive is at Casper se Draai. We spot the melanistic Gabar settled in a tree which does not make for good photography. But it flies off and we head in the same direction and find it perched in a tree with a juvenile and another Gabar of normal plumage. It is obviously a family – Mom, Dad and junior. They have a dove in the foliage and are feasting on it. Luckily for us they are on the correct side of the road – not into the sun – and we get some reasonable photographs.

Melanistic Gabar Goshawk

Normal plumage of Gabar Goshawk

001 Melanistic and Normal Earl 2015-03-19 07-50-45 AM 3162x2116

Parent and juvenile on right

We decide to return to camp and have a rest day as we are leaving for Polentswa tomorrow. On the way back we do some more birding.

Familar Chat

Yellow Canary

Crimson-breasted shrike

Burchell’s Sandgrouse

After lunch I go for a swim and meet some people from Somerset West. They ask where I live and I say – Fish Hoek. Oh says the lady, we are with our aunt and uncle from Fish Hoek – Eric and Margaret. I am gob-smacked. They are members of The Bird Club and I know Margaret and Eric very well. I also know their daughters! Later Earl and I pop up to their chalet to say hi. I had told Eric that we were off to KTP and he’d said – You lucky fish! At that stage he didn’t know that he would also be having a trip here – two weeks ago his daughter, Alison, suggested he and Margaret go in their place as here hubby, Alan was not well. Margaret tells me that it has been a brilliant trip with their niece and nephew treating them like royalty! Her niece also said that they’d learnt a lot about birds from Eric!

Caravanning in the Kgalagadi Mata Mata to Nossob Sunday 15 March 2015

2015-04-07 | puppy1952

We are up very early and start the final packing for departure. The most difficult part is getting the roof of the Comfort Van down. It is very difficult to clip into place there being a front part and a back part that needs to be done. If the one end clips the other won’t and we have not yet learned the knack of getting it right. One is also in danger of bashing one’s head on the ceiling if one doesn’t duck just in time. I am uselessly impractical and tend have serious coordination problems which frustrates the perfectionist in my darling husband. He has soon collected several reasons to divorce or kill me when Jim comes to the rescue and offers to help. I feel fractionally better when I find that the two men have as much trouble as I did with the task but they finally do it without destroying their beautiful friendship. This particular caravan has a problem and Earl says he will have to make a few adjustments so that the mechanism will work more easily in the future!

We had planned to leave at 7 but are ready to roll at 6:35 and we are out of the gate by 6:40 – just 10 minutes later than our usual start. This is as well as we have 160km of rough roads to negotiate while towing our caravan and the maximum allowed speed is 50km/hr

We spot at speed for a while and get Jackal, White-backed vultures and gemsbok before Jim and Maureen stop at 7:00. What do they see – then I spot them – 3 female lions and a tumble of the tiniest kittens. I call them kittens because they are the tiniest cubs I have ever seen. They must be only a few weeks old. Other tourists are turning their vehicle round to follow them and one chap teases us – “Why don’t you turn round and follow too!” If only!

But we are delighted to have got this much of them. I find out later that M&J had seen the male too. He was sitting down proudly watching his family. Somehow E and I missed that!

We do not take the loops round the waterholes but travel the bypass road instead keeping a sharp lookout for anything interesting. We spot three cheetahs (which J and M miss) on the ridge of the dune. It looks like they intend going to 14^th Waterhole.

We pass some giraffe then turn onto the Dune Road toward Nossob. The vegetation is denser now but the game is sparse. We find one or two steenbok which we haven’t seen this trip yet. A Kori Bustard struts past and a lanner flies into a tree. At Vaalpan we find a black headed heron in a small waterhole.

Jim is ahead of us and when we catch up he is stationery – we think to wait for us but when we draw up beside him he points to Northern Black Korhaan – the dunes are famous for these birds.

At Elan Water Hole we find a jackal and a little later we spot red hartebeest.

Our loo stop is at Kikbaardskolk picnic site where we meet some people who warn us that there is ‘nothing to see’ in the Nossob area. The annual rains have not yet arrived and may in fact be too late. There will be consequences to the wildlife if good rains don’t come soon.

We find Gemsbok at both Dikbaardskolk Water Hole and Kaspersdraai Water Hole where there is also a jackal. Finally we arrive at Nossob at about 9:30. Jim and Maureen go straight to the camping area and find the shadiest spot they can. I go to reception and the man complains that people seek their camping spot before checking in! We decide not to go out for a game drive today as it is just too hot!

I am finding camping so much nicer than staying in chalets. Ones fellow campers are all so friendly and one gets to meet some interesting people. After breakfast I take the dishes to wash and find a gentleman sitting at a counter, laptop plugged sorting out his photographs. He calls me over and shows me the most amazing video and photo sequence of a leopard that came down to drink as Kaspersdraai water hole. It was on his granddaughter’s birthday so he named her Tara. Later when I return to do some washing he is there with his friend Peter – both of them on their computers. They are discussing birds that they might see and mention that in the rainy season you could sea knob-billed duck. Isn’t that now called comb duck, I ignorantly chime in. Oh no, says Peter – the comb duck is in India – we’ve changed our one’s name back to knob-billed duck. And if you read my book you will have all the new names. Turns out he is Peter Ginn chief editor of The best companion to Southern African Birding.

I meet Peter, his wife Irene and their friends in the pool later. Peter offers me his set of books at a reduced price and I tell him that I’ll chat to E which I do later and Earl is dead keen. Other campers had shown us these beautiful coffee table books at Mata Mata and E was impressed. Peter agreed to give us his banking details and we are now the proud owners of these stunning books signed by both him and his wife who is co-editor!

For supper we do steaks, sweet potato and onions on the braai and combine our ingredients for a salad. It won’t be long before we run out of fresh veggies so we’re making the most of it while they last.

It is very hot tonight and I wring my sarong out in cold water and sleep with it draped over me. I don’t wake till 5 the next morning!

Caravanning in The Kgalagadi – Mata Mata Friday 13 March 2015

2015-04-05 | puppy1952

It is a calm day today – no cats but we do have fun seeing birds and other creatures as the photographs will show.

We ended our day early and came back to camp at 2 pm. The temperatures gets up to 36 every day but while in an air conditioned car this is not too bad but in camp it is energy sapping. I decide that I will go to the pool for a quick swim but stay in for an hour! I meet some interesting people. Mike is a vet from Hout Bay and heavily into Bird Watching so we have a lovely chat while his companions tease us about looking at birds when there is a lion right in front our noses. This is too true!

When I am out of the pool I chat to a lady who is on one of the recliners in the shade. It is her first visit to Kgalagadi and she is not impressed. “It’s just a dessert,” she says – “I miss Kruger.” I tell her that it will grow on her. “Why,” she asks – “The -vastness of the dry, scorched land, the muted grey-green-pink-mauve-lime-green-khaki colours that contrast with the orange dunes and brightly coloured bee-eaters and crimson breasted shrikes, the huge sky and the dusty pink clouds, the very earthiness of the place – I don’t know – but it does grow on one and one keeps longing to come back. Kruger has a different kind of fresh, lush beauty. Kgalagadi has a rugged character that keeps drawing you back time and time again.

Maureen cooks Puttanesca (Prostitutes’ Pasta) for supper and Earl is impressed. He wants me to learn to cook it!

Giraffe matching their background

The ever-present tawny eagle

He finds the remains of the cheetah kill

And what a feast it will be for him

Unusual to find a barn owl

Gemsbok (Oryx) at Thirteenth Water Hole

Rufous vented titbabbler

Ground Squirrel in our camp

Built in sunshade

Kruger National Park Day 19

2014-08-05 | puppy1952

17 July Lower Sabie
The day started with a stop at Sunset Dam. Aunt was trying to Skype me and I managed to get through to her. how amazing that I was able to chat to her in Australia and show her the dam on Skype!
After spending 20 minutes there we followed the tar road and soon spotted vultures flying and landing in the trees at the side of the road where a small group of cars were stopped and looking towards the river. We realised that they were looking at a hippo kill and a male lion was guarding it. As the cars moved off we were able to get into a better position and get a reasonable photograph. It was great though to see a variety of different vultures. the smell was pretty awful so we didn’t stay long. we gave up our position to a young family who came toward us.

Earl got some lovely shots.

Hooded Vulture

Lion guarding hippo kill – very dirty face

Close-up

At an omrit to the river I spotted a beautiful bird which turned out to be a little bee-eater although I was hoping for a bush shrike.

Little Bee-eater

We stopped at Nkulhu for breakfast and had boerwors rolls and coffee.

The monkeys and baboons were misbehaving and we saw monkey take a packet of marshmallows from a family wanting them for their hot chocolate

Baboons also cheekily raided the table of an older family group and scared one of the women half to death.
As it was our last full day in the park we decided to take the long route via Skukuza in the hope of finding a leopard.
We found many interesting birds and creatures but there were also long stretches of nothing. On the H4-1 it was great to find a male bush buck.

Male bushbuck

A single rhino lay asleep under a tree next to Renoster Pan.
On the N’watimhin Road just before it joins the S79 there is an afrit to a small puddle of a dam. But what a lot there was happening there. we found wooly necked storks, a hamerkop or two, a jacana, grey heron and a brown hooded kingfisher actively hunting for food. A big male baboon sat at the edge of the pond with his back to us.

Just a puddle – but a lot going on

Baboon

In the company of impala

Hamerkop

Male Impala

After enjoying watching frogs and fish being caught by the storks and heron we were about to start the car and head off. But I called, “Elephant” and a single bull lumbered upon the scene. We thought he would take a drink from the end where he’d appeared but he circled round the edge chasing off the smaller creatures in his way. He came straight for us and proceeded to frittle about in a muddy patch. It was fascinating watching this giant give himself a muddy beauty treatment. First he picked up a piece of litter with his trunk but finding it useless blew it away. Then he sprayed himself with gooey mud; eyes included. This ritual took about 20 minutes before he stared straight at us, waved his trunk and lumbered off into the bush. This interlude was one of the best experiences I have ever had in Kruger.

We were quite breathless after this little escapade and reluctantly left the scene and made our way slowly back to camp. On the way we saw a few more interesting things.

Black Shouldered Kite

Fish Eagle with prey

Kudu

Collared Sunbird

Just before reaching home we were alerted to lions across the river – quite far away but nice to see.

It was our last night in the park so we went to the restaurant for dinner. It was The Mugg but it turned out to be great.

Farewell Meal at Mugg & Bean, Lower Sabie

And that Folks is the end of our tale. We left the following morning and made our way back to Cape Town stopping over in Bloemfontein and getting to Cape Town at 5 on Saturday evening. It was an amazing trip!