A year ago our Australian friends, Erich and Wendy asked my advice on what to do and where to go in Namibia, a place they have wanted to visit for many years. Earl and I decided that we wouldn’t mind another trip to this amazing country so we decided to go ourselves and asked them to tag along. Our itinerary of 26 days included Ai Ais, Africa Safari Lodge near Mariental, Sossusvlei, Windhoek, The Waterberg Plateau, Etosha National Park and then on our way home we spent 9 days in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
We are now back and what an adventure it has been. I am in the process of sorting out the hundreds of photographs and will try to publish one episode per day but forgive me if I fall behind 🙂 Some of the trivia and information mentioned in my posts are taken from park pamphlets, brochures, books on the area and Wikipedia.
2 June 2015 – Cape Town to Ai Ai
Finally this day has arrived. I love the excitement of the pre-dawn start to a long journey. I settle down in my seat – pushed far forward so Erich has space for his long legs behind me. I scribble down our departure time on my pre-prepared chart – 4:30 am – The kilometerage registers 119632. What will it be when we return? I know my neat chart with its recordings of costs and stops will look the worse for wear when we return too! Cape Town is cold and rainy and we look forward to warm, dry weather and the healing waters of the Ai Ais hot springs. Perish the thought – the cold and rain continues. Our first stop is a freezing Klawer and our hot Wimpy breakfast and coffee is sooo welcome. It is strange to see pelting rain soaking into the dry Karoo earth. The weather only improved around Springbok.
Earl is not at his best at border crossing so I make sure that all the documentation is ready and hand my list of items to be taken across the border to the grim-faced officer at Vioelsdrift. Within minutes he has dismissed most of them as unnecessary and pins my list to the form he has filled in – no problem! The whole procedure is over in 40 minutes and by 2 pm we are in Namibia!
It is interesting to see wine farming taking place on the banks of the Orange River. Aussenkehr is such a farm. It is planned to develop Aussenkehr into a town. 6,000 erven have been surveyed and water and sewerage systems have been built.There is less than 50 millimetres average annual rainfall but the farm includes 15 kilometres of riverfront and has a government-approved quota to draw water for irrigation from the Orange River.
Vineyards of Aussenkehr
Straw houses we passed – Aussenkehr
We bought wine and beers from the Aussenkehr Spar – which is in the middle of nowhere and serves the farming community and straw house dwellers.
The road we travel
Moonscape
We arrive at Ai Ais at 3 pm Namibian time, taking the new dirt road which is a tad quicker. The weather is overcast and there are a few drops of rain and it is really cold.
We have room A3 and A4 which lead onto the indoor pool area. We have a swim and then a rest before going for drinks and then to supper at the restaurant. We all have eland steaks which are rather nice. They are served with rosti, butternut and green beans. Then its off to our comfortable beds decked with down duvets – so welcome after a hard day’s travelling.
The princess sleeps with earplugs and covers her eyes with a black mask so as not to let in the early morning light so I was surprised to find her up with the sparrows and ready to go! We were out the gate by 7:05 and as we admired the gorgeous sunrise she said, “I’d better take a photograph so I’ll remember what this looks like because I’m never up to see sunrises!”
A sunrise fit for a princess
She is sitting comfortably in the front seat and has warned me not to take photos of her without make-up – but she somehow manages to get it on between sightings – while we’re watching birds I suspect!
We drive around until 10ish finding the usual suspects – warthogs, a variety of buck, zebra play-fighting the odd elephant and lots of birds the highlight being a bar-throated apalis. Two pale chanting goshawks in a tree are also great and of course the bokmakieries are iconic in Addo.
The beautiful bokmakierie
Pale Chanting Goshawk
Denim’s Bustard
Bar-throated Apalis
Back at the hut we shower, the princess tarts up and Earl and I go to the communal kitchen to make breakfast. The princess has specific requests – no tomato and no kidneys please! Dad presents her with eggs, bacon and banana cooked to perfection. We slum it on scrambled eggs and kidneys – somehow I think we got the better deal!
When Her Highness is ready we set off for another game drive. We hear on the grapevine aka the Addo Face Book page that there were two male lions on the Gorah Loop 2 hours ago so we head there without expecting much. There are a few gathered parked on a bend and we see two lions a little way off but fast asleep. We snap a photo just to say that we’ve seen them then move on to enjoy more exciting things.
The King of the Jungle does not interest our royal passenger in this lazy state
Our drive is fruitful and we have fun watching Princess’s favourite creatures, marvelling at the Kudu and eland, amazed at the number of warhogs abound and are thrilled at how plentiful the game is. We spot one jackal but he is no mood to pose for a portrait.
We’re happy for a photo shoot
Mongoose
Zebra confrontation
An elephant tussle
A bum view
We go past the lions once more – still fast asleep and then go back to camp for lunch. The Cattle Baron has edged into the Sanparks. I hope all goes well and that I won’t have to do battle and change their name to the Battle Caron. The service is good. The Princess and the Earl order beef burgers. I settle for a house salad. The latter is stunning. The princess needs to do Battle with Caron. Her burger is inedible – “If I throw it against the wall it will bounce,” she tells the longsuffering waitress. “Let me try the chicken burger instead, please.” This turns out to be just perfect. The chips, too, are done to perfections. The Earl eats his burger but admits it was rather disgusting. “You should stick to Banting,”I say smugly. My salad is full of greens, tomato, avo, cheese and grated egg. Yum!
After a loo break we set straight off for another game drive. It is now 3:30. We head for Gorah Loop and get there around 4 – the lions have not moved – still dead to the world. We see a tail flick slightly so know they are in fact alive. Off we go in search of the ellies. We find lots and enjoy all the other game and birds too. “We should go to the lion sighting at 5,” I say. “They’ll wake up then.”
“They’ll only wake up if buffalo turn up,” says the Princess knowing that this is their favourite food.
So we continue on our way and enjoy the other things to see in this beautiful park.
We find ourselves back at the lion spot just after 5 – but they’re fast asleep. We switch off the engine and wait to see if anything will happen.
Suddenly the Princess yells – The buffalo are here! And sure enough there is a biggish herd, alert and sniffing the air.
What can they smell
They’re aware but are very short sighted and don’t actually see them. A few separate from the rest and begin grazing in the bushes behind the lions. One of the lions sits up,
The other rolls over and lies on his back.
Just let me sleep!
The grazers suddenly realise the lions are there and return to the herd. They regroup and start walking toward the lions. The boys leap up and start running toward the parked cars. The buffs chase after them and see them off. Wow – what an exciting sighting. See the video on Youtube
We follow the lions for some time and marvel at seeing elephants in the background too.
That was a rude awakening!
The gate closes at six and so the whole fleet of us head back to camp.
After packing up for an early departure tomorrow we decide it is too cold to do a braai so The Princess treats us to dinner at The Cattle Baron – they haven’t misbehaved enough to call them Battle Caron.
The Earl orders ribs – The Princess and I have grilled calamari tubes and share a Greek Salad. Perfect! The Earl is not 100% happy with the ribs – the sauce has a very strong taste that is not to his liking – It’s a half portion but he can’t finish it! We chat to the manager about our concerns and he takes it well and says he will investigate what the chef is doing and suggest some amendments to the way he does burgers and ribs! Everything else is perfect.
Addo Elephant park is fabulous. It is teeming with game, Jack’s picnic site is amazing, the facilities are clean and well-maintained and service is good. Next time we plan to visit one of the other rest camps – perhaps Spekbook tented will be fun. It overlooks a waterhole.
Friday 15 May 2015 Addo Elephant to Struisbaai
We left the park at 7:00 am and made our way to the South Gate. We spotted lots of warthogs but not as much game as when we came in. The elephants were there to bid the princess farewell.
We went to our B&B to collect a pack of beers we’d left in the fridge and the headed to Jeffrey’s Bay where we met Jim and Maureen at In Food Bakery for breakfast. It was so good to see them and hear about their wonderful experiences in Etosha and Kgalagadi. Their friend Joy also joined us a little later.
The breakfasts were delicious. I ordered paoched eggs, spinach and salmon which came with a croissant. Hold the croissant I told the waitress. Would you like Banting bread instead, she offered. Banting bread? Well why not – if it’s awful I just won’t eat it. Well it was delicious! One could eat it without butter or jam as it tasted like a savoury loaf on its own. Yummy – Banting certainly is an easy and satisfying diet to follow.
Don’t ask if I’ve lost weight – I don’t think much – I’ve been eating too much – I’m on holiday after all! But I’ve felt good and not at all hungry. I definitely have not put on any weight and I’m really doing this for health and not reduction reasons. But I am hoping the belly fat will miraculously disappear eventually! Even in my sixties I care! The plan is to be stricter about the orange list and the amount we eat when we settle in Struisbaai in July.
We arrived in Struisbaai at 5, unpacked the essentials and made a braai for supper. We watched TV for a bit and then collapsed into bed.
Saturday 16 May 2015 Homeward Bound
Earl did all the things needed at the house this morning and by 10:30 we were on the road for home. We stopped in Bredasdorp to refuel, pay an account and shop for takkies for Laurie. The latter two were unsuccessful as there was load shedding and the municipality didn’t open on Saturdays!
We dropped the Princess off at her flat at 1:15 and we arrived in Sun Valley at 2:00 pm. Another wonderful trip under the belt!
I was up early and showered before Earl woke up. The Princess messaged to say her flight was delayed. I rang her and she told me that she’d seen Sharon and Tony at the airport – they were on their way to Johannesburg to get their connecting flight to Singapore then Viet Nam. I rang Sharon to say good-bye! We won’t see each other till July as she only gets back after we leave for Namibia. We’ll both be in Nam but on different continents.
After a delicious breakfast of pork sausage, bacon, eggs, tomato and mushrooms we set off to the airport arriving at 8:45 as we expected Laurie at 9:30. It was very foggy so we thought this was the reason for the delay. No flights were landing or taking off and we began to worry when we heard that a flight from Johannesburg had been diverted to East London. This announcement kept coming about other flights too and finally we heard that The Princess was diverted to George. Well we spent three hours at the airport as the flights only came in when the mist cleared. The Princess finally arrived at 11:40. I waited in the airport while Earl drove out so as to avoid the hefty parking costs. In no time we had her packed into the car and were off to Addo Elephant Park!
The Princess only wanted to come to Addo to see elephants. She is not a natural Nature Girl. So I was a little nervous that there wouldn’t be much to see and she would get bored of our constantly stopping to look at birds! Well the park was beautiful. It was lush and green and we entered at the bottom gate and drove up from the South to the main camp. Wow – so different to our last trip when there were no animals at all in this new section. Today we saw just about everything. Warthogs were the first creatures spotted and then there were hundreds. We found the animals everywhere in large numbers and many species together. The princess was amused – but where were the elephants. Tomorrow – we said – you have to go to the waterholes at midday and then you’ll see the elephants. The words were no sooner cold on our lips when a huge bull elephant appeared on the side of the road. Yay! But that’s not all – more materialised and we saw many along the way. Once in the south we went to a couple of the waterholes and found more elephants and buffalo too. We can go home now – we’ve achieved our goal!
The Common Ostrich looking splendid
The striped ones were plentiful – note the sea in the background – the park includes the Big 7 – Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Elephant, Buffalo, Southern Right Whale and Great White Shark
The Princess knew what this was – Yellow Canary
How cute is this
A special appearance for Her Highness
Which made her smile
The pigs made her laugh
The female elephants in Addo have no tusks – due to interbreeding. However, new stock have been introduced and some new generation females are now getting tusks.
Male and Female Kudu with pig in the background
He is very curious about the beautiful princess
Looking good
Father and Mother Shelduck
Mr Shelduck
Mrs Shelduck
Ellies at the waterhole
Enjoying a refreshing drink,
Buffalo at dusk
Spoonbill
We arrived at Main Camp at quarter to 4, checked in, bought a few things from the shop and then went to our forest hut number 4. It’s a lovely 4 bedded hut nestled in the bush with a deck and braai plekkie. It has its own bathroom, is fully equipped but we have to use the communal kitchen. The Princess has to share her sleeping space with her parents but she has the extra bed on which to spread out her stuff!
We sat out on the deck until supper time when it became a bit too cold so we ate at the table inside.
The kids woke us at 7:30 ish and then we got up and had breakfast. We’d packed up the night before and we were on the road by 8:45. We got a little lost after Queenstown but realised our mistake and went back, took the Takastad turn and followed Nicoline’s map until we reached Bekkersfontein. It was a bit chilly but we were warmly dressed. We unpacked then relaxed for the rest of the day. The stone cottage is lovely. It is solar powered most of the time but the generator is put on in the evenings. However, the lights are always very weak.
We braaied for supper and then Boudewyn came home. He’d been in Hogsback. We invited him to eat with us but he’d had a big lunch in Hogsback. He is very busy with the farm as he is only here when on leave from the oil rig – one month on one month off or something like that.
Monday 12 May 2015
We got up and went for a drive around the farm before breakfast. It was lovely. We saw lots of different animals and some birds.
Sable Antelope
Grey Heron
Blesbok
Hoopoe
Back at the cottage we found that it was being serviced by a maid! This we did not expect as we are not paying guests. We cooked breakfast and then went for a walk trying to find the river route. We found a few nyala. When we returned I had a mid-morning nap!
Female Nyala and baby
Boudewyn came to collect us in the afternoon and took us for a ride on the Rhino. I sat up front with him and Earl stood on the back holding on for dear life. It was exhilarating. If I thought Abri’s cowboy driving on the Namibian farm was terrifying I still had to experience this! It’s an open vehicle with strict safety rules nailed to the dashboard which nobody obeys! I rode minus seat belt or helmet and there were no safety doors either! I read the rules and shivered. I just made sure to keep my limbs inside the vehicle! But I needn’t have worried we didn’t turn over once.
We did, however, see loads of game. We stopped to go into blinds and Boudewyn kept a running commentary of what the farm was all about.
Beautiful and gentle waterbuck
Stripy
The Earl waiting on the Rhino
The dogs enjoy every second
Me in the front seat
The ride up the mountain over roads littered with rocks and deep potholes was like riding in a moon buggy as the rhino is designed for just such off-road conditions.
Thank Goodness we’d put on an extra jacket for the ride as by the time we came down from the mountain it was pretty cold. Yet Boudewyn was dressed in shorts a shirt and a padded waste coat. “ Do you ever wear a jacket?” I asked. “This is my jacket,” he grinned patting his waste coat.
We braaied again for supper and Boudewyn went off to do all sorts of chores as he is leaving for the oil rig tomorrow – a very long flight awaits him!
Thanks Nicoline for organising this amazing stay with your brother. Thanks Boudewyn for making it so memorable.
Tuesday 12 May 2015
We left after breakfast and had a pleasant drive to Port Elizabeth. Before checking into our B&B we stopped for lunch and then went shopping at Woolworths.
Our B&B Almani is lovely. Our double room has tea and coffee making facilities, a fridge and a microwave oven. Everything is immaculate. There is a television and an enormous double bed. The en-suite has a bath and separate shower. The rooms open onto an enclosed stoop which opens onto the pool area of the lush garden. The service is excellent and friendly.
There was load shedding from 3:30 to 6:30 today. Earl had a nap while I caught up on my diary and blogging and when the battery died I read my book!
We went to Ocean Basket for dinner and it was great! The restaurant is a little noisy but it is spacious and clean and the service is good. Our food was excellent. I had grilled calamari and stir fried vegetables. Earl had a seafood platter for one with stir fried vegetables. Of course he couldn’t eat it all – fish, calamari, mussels and prawns!
We did not have dessert and went home to make tea. We were short of Rooibos tea so I went to “Die Voorkamer”to ask for more. The daughter of the house was there and called to her mom that we needed tea bags. “Is dit die mense in Kamer 3 ?” she called back. “Nee – dis die pretty auntie” came to reply. I didn’t know whether to be flattered at being called pretty or insulted at being called aunty! Anyway she brought the teabags to our room and all was well!
On Friday morning we had breakfast with the Macs and little Katelyn and James came to visit Granny and Grandpa. They are adorable. Earl took photographs of them in the garden with the ancient pony, Fatso that our kids used to ride!
Drongos catch the crumbs that Andrew throws in the air for them
A feeding frenzy in Barbara’s garden
Beautiful Black Collared Barbet
I went to Barbara’s hairdresser, Mario, at 11:30 and she gave me an old-fashioned razor cut! I am very pleased with the results. My hair is short and easy to manage.
We then met up with Nicoline and made plans for our departure to her brother’s game farm near Queenstown. We then returned to the farm and chilled for the rest of the day.
In the evening we went to Heather’s for dinner – Wow – what a spread – roast lamb and all the trimmings followed by cheesecake for dessert. My only cheat from Banting for ages but I fooled myself that cheese was banting so it was okay! Loads of sugar but so what!
Saturday 9 May 2015
On Saturday we went to Wacky Winter Weekend at St Patrick’s College. It was lovely. Shannon had a few games of hockey to play and Simon had rugby. We were very proud when he scored a goal. It was a very hot day and we left at about 12ish to go shopping for our next trip. In the afternoon we relaxed at home.
Hot and exhausted after three exhilarating games
He’s got the ball
And Simon scores a tri!
The kids were tired but happy after a successful morning of sport. We went back to the farm and in the evening Earl did seared tuna for dinner.
Today we woke up to overcast weather and it was way colder than yesterday. But this did not dull our spirits. Earl was up and out on the water just after 6. I went back to sleep! When I woke up I had a long and leisurely hot bath.
Today was a lazy day as far as physical activity was concerned but I did have some Bird Club work to do and also worked on the Birthday Photographs.
At half past 11 our masseuse arrived, Earl had a fire going in the grate and we each had a hot stone massage – Earl first and then me. Wow – she was outstanding and we paid way less than we would in Cape Town for half the quality. I was finished for the rest of the day and just relaxed and watched the birds and animal at the dam.
Dinner tonight is braaied chops and sausage, cauli mash and salad. Yes – we are being very good with our Banting diet. Well – I am – Earl had biscuits for tea!
Yellow-billed duck with ducklings
Thursday 7 May 2015 Sani Valley Lodge
Sadly today is our last day. It is misty and cold so we decide to pack up and leave early.
Before we leave we chat to a French couple who are staying I Sunset 2. It is their first visit to South Africa and they are here to visit their kids who are staying in Stellenbosch for six months. They have done the Garden Route and are now exploring the Drankensberg. Today they will go up Sani Pass with a guide. We have a chat about the birds they have seen and I show them the French words on the Roberts App on my phone. They are delighted.
We also plan to go a short way up Sani Pass before we head back to Kokstad. On our way out we spot two beautiful reed buck.
He has a broken horn
She is beautiful
Our neighbours overtake us as we slowly climb the pass. Then they stop and indicate to us that there is a bird in a tree. We are thrilled to find the Gurneys Sugarbird – this is one of the few places to find them. They are similar to the more common Cape Sugarbird which we see often at home.
Gurney Sugarbird
View from Sani Pass
We turn around after seeing this our target bird and take a scenic drive to Drakensberg Gardens passing a place we once went to with the kids – Lake Naverone.
Giant’s Castle
On our return we stop at The Olde Duck for lunch.
We have been there before with the kids who always enjoy the petting farm. We did find the donkey adorable.
The food was excellent too. Earl had a fetta and spinach pancake and I had a hot chicken salad.
We then drove back to Kokstad and spent the night with the Mackenzies. It was great to catch up and spend some quality time with them.
We were awake at dawn. The sun rises quite early here – and it is beautiful. I look out on the still, mirror of a dam and see a single dabchick with a wake training behind it. Earl is up and off to fish and I don’t go back to sleep. I sort out a few emails and then get up and shower. There is a lot going on outside my window and soon I am clicking away with the camera.
Early Morning view from my deck
I go for a long walk at about 8 – the morning is fresh but I’m comfortable in shorts, t-shirt and a fleece.
I love Autumn
The Mountains are stunning
Stone chat
Female Buff-streaked chat
I return at 9 to find Earl back from fishing and disappointed that he caught nothing but I think he just enjoyed the stunning surroundings.
He goes out again in the afternoon and I go for a walk to the dam just over the hill behind our cottage. There are many animals dotted about the hillside and in the veld. But when I try to get closer they move away. I still manage to get some photographs. This place is just too beautiful. One can never tire of it.
It was chilly this morning but the sun was shining brightly. I checked the forecast and it looks like we’re going to have sunny weather for our 3 days at Sani Valley Lodge.
We left around 10ish and enjoyed the scenic drive to Underberg. Wow but those mountains are beautiful.
Long crested eagles were on many of the poles along the way.
Showing his crest
Looking for prey
In Underberg we shopped for supplies and fishing tackle. The Spar shop is great but the parking is cramped. The new centre just outside of town has failed miserably. Apparently somebody from Kokstad has now bought it and hopefully people will support the shops there. The story goes that the previous owner did not get the locals on his side and they boycotted him. If this centre takes off, it will be fabulous as there is plenty of easy parking. I think Spar should think about moving in where the previous supermarket was.
The approach to the lodge is always interesting. The views of the dams are stunning and we usually see some bird and animal life.
Pied kingfisher
Common Fiscal
Black-headed heron
Buff-streaked chat
View across to the boathouse
The bottom dams
We met a number of other visitors at reception – all arriving around 1:30 for checking in at 2. Our lodge is Sunset 1 – upstairs to 2 and 3. We have a German couple for neighbours and this is their first visit here and to South Africa. They have done the Western Cape – Cape Town, the wine route and garden route. They are loving their trip.
On arrival at our lodge we found zebra grazing on the lawn – how cool is that! There was also quite a lot of bird activity. The crowned crane were a bit too far for a good photograph. A kingfisher caught a frog and there were Egyptian geese and dabchicks on the dam. A grey heron also lurked in the reeds.
Baby zebra having a rest
The best thing about Sani Valley Lodge is the tranquillity and peace. The surroundings are stunning – the combination of mountains and lake just make this place a little bit of Paradise. It is Autumn now but we have missed the best of it. However, the colours still linger in spite of many of the trees being already almost bare of their leaves. I am so enjoying the richness of the oranges, yellows and reds contrasting with the green of the mountains. In summer it is just green, green and more nauseating green. I think I like the Autumn best!
Earl was out on the lake before I could blink. There are quite a few fishermen here and he worried that he wouldn’t get a boat – but we booked ages ago and Gareth knows how keen a fisherman Earl is – so there was indeed a boat ready for him. He was out for the rest of the afternoon but unfortunately the fish weren’t biting!
Earl insisted that I make a guacamole so he went off early to get me the avos. Before breakfast I prepared the crudités. We had fried eggs and bacon for breakfast.
Lauren, Shannon and I got to Ann’s at 12:30 to set up our part of the eats. Lauren had been there helping all yesterday afternoon.
Ann’s house is the perfect venue for al fresco. She has a large semi enclosed stoop and a huge lawn. Table and chairs with umbrellas were set up and everything looked beautiful. There was a slight breeze blowing and it was overcast but not too cold. It was better than having an boiling hot day!
There were over 80 guests and everyone fitted in very well. It was a hugely successful party. I managed to stick to the banting as there were plenty of the right foods to eat. What fun we had catching up with old friends and family that we haven’t seen for ages.
Each of Andrew’s five children gave a speech. This is the first time that I have ever heard them speak at any of their parents’ celebrations. And they were fantastic. Glynis couldn’t make it so she asked Lauren to read hers. I set up a Skype connection so that she and Barbara’s sister Diane could watch the proceedings. .
Others also gave brief speeches and we were all in fits of laughter at what some had to say about Andrew’s early days.
I have known Andrew for over 30 years and thought I knew everything about him. He was a farmer and the pastor of his church but I did not realise how many charities he was and still is involved in. He has affected so many lives.
People started leaving from about 4 onwards but Barbara asked us to stay for soup – delicious butternut soup which ended the day of feasting well.
Everybody helped to provide the eats for the party but Ann, the youngest of Andrew’s children hosted us at her home. I could see that she was anxious that everything went well and but she needn’t have worried – everything was perfect and she was an amazing hostess. Thanks Ann for making sure we had an unforgettable celebration of Andrews truly wonderful eighty years.
Today we celebrate Workers’ Day with a public holiday. We thought this would mean less traffic on the roads but that was wishful thinking.
We got up early and then went to have breakfast at the restaurant. While we were waiting for them to open we watched the crested guineafowl pecking about the gardens for food. There were also baboons about and we could hear an angry one barking. I had the camera to my eye when Earl spotted him walk right past me. I wasn’t aware of him at all and fortunately he didn’t try to hurt me
On the way out we found baboon on the road as well as some Nyala.
On the way home through the Durban traffic we stopped off for lunch and to shop for the ingredients I needed for Andrew’s birthday celebration tomorrow. We arrived back at Lauren’s at about 3:30.
I made my dips for the party – tsatsiki and humus but my guacamole did not work out well – it was very bitter. Earl said he would buy more avos tomorrow and I could start again. I don’t think it will be necessary as we really have enough dips for my crudités
Lauren took the kids to the Circus. I was not able to eat supper after eating a breakfast of eggs, bacon and tomato and a chicken salad for lunch. This is Banting! You just don’t get hungry!
We overslept this morning. I did not set the alarm because I thought I would easily wake up! But last night’s coffee caused me to struggle to fall asleep and then once I was asleep I couldn’t wake up!
In spite of this we were out the gate by 6:15. What a successful morning we had. We came across a small traffic jam – two cars and a jeep jockey – the latter on the opposite side of the road. As we approached I looked into the bush and saw two lionesses. But that is not what the cars ahead were looking at – they had 5 lion on a buffalo kill. Wow! There was one male a lioness and some cubs. Earl pulled up next to the car on the left and I managed to see what was happening although he could not see anything. Then a family of Chinese tourists arrived and we reversed to allow them to take our place and Earl pulled in behind the car with the best view. Not long after the car in front of him left and he took its place allowing us a good view of the lions on the kill. The jeep jockey did not move. The Chinese tourists managed to get a good look but could not move past the jeep jockey. At this point more cars started arriving as well as two more jeep jockeys. The car ahead of us left and we were about to follow when a jeep jockey pulled in front of us on the wrong side of the road! I gave her hand signals to move and finally she complied!
As we came into the good spot the male went onto the kill
And looked straight at us
The female was exhausted from chasing and eating?
The cubs were tucking in big time and they all had fat little tummies
We continued on our trip and were delighted to find rhino and other creatures before we returned to Hilltop for breakfast.
After a delicious brekkie of eggs, bacon, creamed mushrooms etc. we made our way to Mpila Camp. The sightings were not prolific but we saw baboons, giraffe, zebra, impala and some birds. After a brief walk around Mpila campsite we did the loop and found rhino, giraffe, zebra and impala as well as some birds.
Back at Mpila we met a couple in the play park where some warthog were grazing. They’d had a fabulous day as they’d been our and about in the area in the early morning – best time for game viewing. The animals are definitely more prolific in Imfolozi.
On our return we found a lioness, some rhino and a single elephant. We also found a hamerkop and a black-crowned night heron in the river.
We saw more rhino than any other creature – encouraging as they are so vulnerable to poachers
This chap was way out of his element
The impala were having a disagreement
African Pied Wagtail
She refused to look at us
All fluffed up
Looking Handsome
Hamerkop hunting for lunch
White-fronted Bee-eater
Well at least we saw one!
In the evening we went to the restaurant for dinner and once again it was excellent. Only this time the staff entertained us with some Zulu dancing and singing which was really fun. What an amazing thing to do. It really impressed the tourists.
For some reason Earl did not want to fish any of the dams in and around Kokstad but was itchy to do something. I suggested a day trip to Tala Private Game Reserve – “Too tame,” said he. “Well then what about Imfolozi/Hluhluwe?” “Yes -that sounds good. Will we get in?” “I can only try,” I replied.
After some lengthy waiting until Emzevulu Central Bookings got round to answering my repeated attempts to call them we managed to get two nights at Hilltop, Hluhluwe. With the coms being so poor at Lauren’s we’d done all the organising at a coffee shop in town – while having a hearty breakfast of course. We returned to the farm and told the kids of our plans. Oh dear – we were meant to go to one of the nieces for dinner on Thursday! We will have to re-schedule!
29 April 2015
We were up at a very rude and freezing hour, dressed in layers as we knew we would be stripping later in the day and set off Northwards in the dark. We stopped at Gateway for breakfast and then arrived at the bottom gate and made our way through the park to Hilltop. It was only 11 o’clock so we took a slow game drive before checking in. The park looked lush and we found out later that there had been recent rains after a worrying drought.
There was not much game about but this is what we saw.
A Female Village Weaver
White-crested helmetshrike
One of the many zebra
Female Nyala trying to hide from us
A distant rhino
And a heap of buffalo with a warthog in the background
We checked in at 4 pm and sat outdoors and enjoyed the beautiful, shady surroundings. The monkeys paid a visit and we heard the birds but they kept hidden in the foliage.
Earl relaxing outside our very luxurious cottage
We were in non-self-catering accommodation – very comfortable with tea and coffee facilities and a bar fridge but no kitchen or braai. Breakfast was included but other meals were extra. Dinner on our first night was a buffet and the food was stunning. The starters included vegetable soup, marinated calamari, tuna salad and a variety of salads. I opted for the calamari and salads. The mains were roast impala, chicken curry and something else that I don’t recall plus a variety of cooked vegetables. I tucked into impala, chicken curry and the veggoes – no carbs at all! Earl is not Banting properly although he tells everyone that he is!
Diary of an Adventurous Retiree 