Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Days 15 ,16,17

2015-07-11 | puppy1952

16 June Daan Viljoen – Getting Lost in Windhoek

Windhoek is not the biggest city in the world. No it is not even ‘big’ by any average standard. Yet we managed to get lost. How do we manage this? Well it’s all to do with not following your instincts. Its paying too much attention to robotic machines who will possibly take over the world one day!
The day starts well enough. We have a delicious breakfast at our fancy B&B – smoked salmon and a variety of cold meats and cheeses are on offer with the usual yogurts and cereals. OH and who can resist fig preserve with Camembert – so in spite of my Banting Diet I indulge in the tiniest little piece. My total carb allowance for the day.
This is followed by eggs, bacon tomato and mushrooms. Erich has an appointment with the dentist at 3 and we want to do our shopping for Kgalagadi — so we set off at 10:30 fill up with fuel and find all the places we need with ease. Armed with a new torch, flask, taser and meat – the latter from a stunning butchery called Trans Kalahari Meat – we make our way to the Dentist where we plan to have coffee at a nearby supermarket coffee shop. As we near I say -“I really would prefer a better place with nicer coffee,”

So we do a search on the “Car Wife” and find a mall 2km away – The coffee is somewhat better and Erich indulge in a slice of cake.

Don’t remember the name of the coffee shop

Then a miracle happens – Earlybird agrees to leave Wends and me to shop while he takes Erich to the Dentist! Bliss – but I am warned to have my cell phone at the ready so that my guardian and protector can find me on his return. I discover that I have run out of Namibian air time so find a cell shop and quickly top up. I leave Wendy to browse while I do this and some Chemist shopping. Then the two of us go to Checkers to do our grocery shopping. This is almost complete when The Boys return – tooth successfully repaired by a charming dentist who Erich thinks undercharged him = It would have cost twice as much in OZ.
The boys help complete the shopping – mainly by adding beers and wine to the trolley and then we try to make our way home.
Earlybird enters the destination and for some strange reason the thing gets us lost! You’re mad he tells his car wife – that’s not the way to go – but still he slavishly obeys her instructions. After meandering around WIndhoek for an hour while he and “Greta Garmin” argue. I finally intervene and say let me speak to her. Well she’d lost satelite reception hadn’t she!

Go back to town and find Sam Mojoma Street says Wendy so we do and then we manage to reset satellite contact and head into the blinding sunset.
We have pre-dinner drinks and then go to the lovely but chilly restaurant again. We are the only guests in the vast, high ceilinged room. We are the only chalet dwellers but there are some campers who brave the cold and have outdoor braais.
Earl has game steak but the rest of us order two starters – delicious tomato soup and then calamari with a wonderful aioli sauce.
For dessert we decide on the cheese platter to share – R80 – well – it is enough for 10 people so we take the leftovers in a doggy bag – well worth the money.
When I booked at this venue I saw the rate as over R1000 per person and didn’t want to take it but Early bird told me to go for it as we’d visited Daan Viljoen as day visitors 20 years ago – it was stunning then as the dams were full of water and the bird life was prolific. This time it was dry and so I felt a bit cheated after paying a fortune to stay there. Everything was lovely, though, so I didn’t fret too much. But on checking what I actually paid I had a pleasant surprise – There are 2 rates – one for rich overseas tourists and one for Africans – Hooray – I paid the African rate – only R795 per person per night. That made me feel much better! Also the food was excellent and cheaper than the buffets in Etosha!
We could have braaied at our chalet but we opted for the restaurant as we will be self-catering fro the next 9 nights.
Another tip for potential travellers NWR resorts – get an NWR card for about N$700 and all accommodation will be 25% less.

17 June Kalahari Tented Camp

Daan Viljoen to Kalahari Tented Camp

Earl is worried that we won’t make it to the Mata Mata Border Post by its closing time at 3:30.

“What’s the worst that can happen?” I say.. “If we don’t make it we can check into a B&B” and I find one 14km from the border post which puts him in a better frame of mind!

Of course we do make it – with an hour to spare.

We check into tent 4 and 5. After unpacking we go for a short drive and find the usual gang.

Wildebeest cannot be ignored

Jackal checking around before taking a drink

We get back by quarter to six and start the braai. It is chilly sitting outside but Wendy and I have knee rugs and warm jackets so we aren’t too fussed. We sit in the kitchen to eat.

But when we go to bed it was freezing. We put two extra blankets on each bed but it takes ages to warm up. I find sleeping with my beanie on helps. If ever you go here in winter – take a hot water bottle!

18 June – A Lion Day

We rise in freezing temperatures – when we got into the car at 7:30 we find the temperature to be -2 and it went down to -5 as we drive toward the waterholes. Brrrr. We turn the aircon up to 24 and soon warm up. We welcome the sun streaming into the car too.

There is very little at each waterhole and we when we get to 13th we stop to watch the red-headed finches darting in and out of the water.

Red-headed finches

We are the only car there when we notice one reversing at speed toward us. He rolls down his window and says “Stay here – there are 10 lion heading this way”. Another reversing vehicle is right behind him and he reports seeing 11.

Wow – we find ourselves in the prime position without any effort at all. Here they came yells Wendy and sure enough 4 adult females and 7 cubs appear and begin drinking right next to us.

Here comes the first one

CLosely followed by the others

Other cars have gathered from both directions and jostle for position but we are right where the action was – right time right place! We see the moms snap at the cheeky youngsters and chase them to their own spot.

They all lap happily for a while and then the cubs begin to play. Soon the moms head in the opposite direction to which we are parked. We decide that we won’t turn around to follow them. But just as we start the car Wendy says – they’re coming back and they give us another half and hour’s entertainment before heading toward the trees and over the ridge. The babies remain behind playing and climbing the tree until one of the moms has to come and demand they follow. It is so much fun.

We are chuffed with our first day and continue on. We stop for breakfast and Earl cooks scrambled eggs, bacon, banana and cheese. Our starter is banting muesli and yogurt. A chap from another group comes over to chat and see whether our brekkie is better than theirs. Of course it is! He tells us they’d seen the ion but also a leopard and cub at another waterhole – how had we missed that!! Wrong place at the wrong time.

Nothing else too exciting happens the rest of the drive and we arrive home at about 3.

some of the creatures we see besides lion.

African Harrier-hawk

Yellow Mongoose

Always good to see – giraffe

Erich and Wendy go to their tent to do a few things, I wash up the brekkie things and prepare for the evening meal before having a short rest.

Earl is sitting on the deck when he suddenly yells – lion – he runs to fetch Wendy and Erich and we watch a male and female come down to the water hole.

Earl spots the lion at a distance

A male and a female make their way to the waterhole

The springbok are stock still

They quench their thirst

The springbok run when they see them then stand perfectly still watching them. A wildebeest some way away is also on high alert. after a few sips they head across the veld and we dash for the car to see where they come out. Other residents have seen the action too and are heading in the right direction to follow the lions. We find them and get some close up shots before heading back to camp.

Jan has seen us all dash off without our permits and comes to check up on us and to ask what we have seen.

Supper is chicken casserole and dessert peaches and yogurt. After tea we pack up and have an early night. It’s off to Nossob tomorrow.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 13 and Day 14

2015-07-10 | puppy1952

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

We go out at 6:30 this morning and visit a couple of waterholes. There is not much except for the usual suspects. We see one elephant. It is good, though, to see that there are animals scattered about. We return at 8:30 for breakfast and then do our own thing for the rest of the day.

Breakfast at Okaukuejo

Earl takes some lovely shots of animals at the waterhole.

Lots to see at the waterhole

Keeping an eye on the ladies

A tawny hoping for a snack?

Janet and Stuart arrive and we find their camping site and invite them to join us for a braai in the evening. We have a great time.

Monday June15 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Our six days in the park are stunning. We have marvellous encounters with elephant, zebra and giraffe. We see black rhino at the waterholes and the weather is fabulous. But hey where the hell are the lions? Certainly none cross our path. Okay, so we come to the parks for the birds and enjoy whatever happens to turn up – but this is the first time ever that we’ve visited a major park and not seen cats. Yes – we see Cheetah but they are half hidden and boring. And when you have overseas guests you want to impress them with the king of the African Bush for Goodness sake. So it was with a slight feeling of disappointment that we exit Okaukuejo Gate for the last stretch to Anderson Gate and I say, Don’t worry guys – we will probably get lions in Kgalagadi.
Then just minutes from the gate we see a few cars stopped up ahead. Wendy yells What’s that?

A lion cub slipping through the bush

Soon we catch sight of 4 lions. 1 mother, 2 small cubs and an older sibling we think. The Mom and big sister flop down under a tree but the cubs go on a bit further and then flop down in full view. Oh Joy! The older one gets up after a while and joins the little ones. We spend 20 minutes watching them get up and wander and return to the comfort of their spot. we reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

We reluctantly bid them farewell and continue happily on our way to our next destination.

Goodbye Etosha

We check into Sun Kaross, Daan Viljoen at 1ish and are assigned chalet 8 and 9. Great spot but the view is of an empty dam! Our accommodation is stunning but it is very cold. Luckily we have down duvets and extra blankets and we put the airocn up to 30.

We unpack and have a cup of tea and then go on a journey of exploration. The list of game includes warthog, giraffe, zebra, red hartebeest, eland, jackal, wildebeest and kudu. Erich is delighted when our first spot is a single wildebeest and red hartebeest together! We follow a 4×4 trail and find all the species except eland, zebra and jackal.

Red Hartebeest

Go Away Bird

Short-toed Rock Thrush

The braai facilities are great but the chalet is not equipped with crockery and cutlery. There is a fridge, kettle, glasses and cups and saucers. Tea and coffee are also provided.
We go to the restaurant and find we are the only chalet dwellers and there is no one else there for dinner. We order the chef’s curry which is a huge helping and totally delicious. Erich has Schnitzel, which is okay, if a little dry. The value for money is good.
Nobody wants dessert.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 12

2015-07-09 | puppy1952

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

By 7:00 a.m. we go off to have our last breakfast at Halali.

Earl forgets to refuel so we can’t take the long route to Okaukuejo. We stop at a few waterholes but as we get nearer and nearer to Okaukeujo it became drier and drier.

Still we enjoy what we see, the highlight being a honey badger in its natural habitat and not scrounging in dustbins for tourists’ left-overs.

A nice mix of creatures

He is too quick for a good photograph

Honey Badgers are tenacious little creatures with little fear. They will stand up to lion should there be a confrontation. Their hide is tough and unpalatable to most predators.

We check in at reception at 9:00 but of course our rooms are not ready. However, we get our numbers and take a look at what facilities they have to offer. We are pleased to see there is a braai. So before going for a drive we shop for supplies. Luckily this shop is better stocked than the previous two camps. We get fresh tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, potatoes and onions. The meat on offer is ‘game’ but no mention of which animal. It looks good so we buy fillets and steaks and some sausage. We also indulge in an ice-cream treat, stow the goodies in the car fridge and set off for a our drive.

Okaukuejo

Male kudu with his females

Shy Steenbok

This jackal was hiding away to take a nap

We return at 12:00 but the rooms will not be ready till 14:00 So we have a drink next to the pool. Erich and Earl climb the tower and then come back to tell us that they’ve spotted elephants and would we like to go for a short drive to find them. Of course we do – and we find them.

They are heading toward the camp waterhole and so we race back and sit there and wait. A springbok stands stock still staring into the distance and Wendy says, – I think he senses the ellies. Sure enough they appear at that moment, come down to drink and play and it is fun to watch.

Here comes the matriarch

We then check into our chalets

For the record: Bush chalets are either two bedroom (4 beds) and one bathroom or one bedroom (two beds) one bathroom at Etosha. Halali and Okaukuejo have braai facilities. Halali provides crockery and cutlery – Okaukuejo does not. There is no stove or hot plate. There is a fridge in each unit. There is a kitchen with sink, kettle, cups and saucers and tea, coffee, sugar provided. Work space is limited. You need to bring your own pots, pans, chopping boards, braai kit etc.

Comfortable bedroom

Basic Bathroom

Small open plan kitchen/sitting room

Basically equipped with fridge and sink

While I am waiting to get my keys from reception there is a man ahead of me in the queue. He asks if there is DSTV. “No sir, – no wifi – no TV – We have a waterhole with live animals”

“Oh no – I want to watch the rugby”

“The springboks are here,” I joke.

He is not amused.

We relax for the rest of the afternoon visiting the pool and the water hole and enjoy a great braai for supper.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 11

2015-07-08 | puppy1952

Friday 12 June 2015 Halali

We decide to have a rest day today. I get up first and out of the corner of my eye spot a ‘dog’ darting past the window. Of course it was not a dog but a honey badger. I dash out with my camera but the light is still not good enough. The badger is having fun. He rolls and does head-over-heals and darts about doing his morning exercise. I watch in fascination and then he runs toward the exit gate having had enough fun scavenging in the bins of Halali for one night!

The Mischievous Honey Badger

Our chalet attendant is comes early and lets me take a photo.

I just love her outfit

Breakfast is first on our Agenda and after that we head out for our morning drive.

The guys enjoying their morning coffee

It is very dry in Etosha at present, yet there is plenty of game about in the form of giraffe, zebra, elephant, springbok, impala, gemsbok and kudu.

Black-faced impala

Gathering of Stripes

We are also see the Northern Black Korhaan.

What’s that you’re saying?

In the afternoon we spend some time at the pool. Earl has a nap but Erich, Wendy and I order a take away lunch – chicken patty, salad and chips. It takes an hour before it is delivered to us but it is really good. Before Erich arrives at the pool Wendy and I try to move a lounge into the shade but they are rather heavy. A young man comes over to offer help – I am convinced that Wendy and I haven’t lost our charm but she says – It’s because we remind him of his granny and he couldn’t let his granny do it on her own.

Oh well! Anyway there are two of these young men and they introduce themselves and chat to us – One is German the other Chilean. Later an Alaskan joins them and it is fun learning that they’d met each other in Windhoek and are now travelling together. The young Chilean is an airline pilot who has taken a year off to travel. The German is a musician and the Alaskan has some sort of trade and is working his way around the world.

After our swim and lunch, Earl wakes up and joins us for a bit at the pool. We then go to the waterhole and after enjoying that for a bit we go back to the chalet to braai.

A serious discussion on what to do about the intruding zebra

Shall we chase the zebs away?

The rhino are coming

I told you not to do that!

Oh well – I guess we’ll just share the waterhole

In the evening we enjoy a braai at our chalet

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 10

2015-07-07 | puppy1952

Thursday 11 June 2015 Namutoni to Halali

We are packed and ready to leave after our usual excellent restaurant breakfast.

It is a zebra day today. We see them in huge herds and wonder if they are having a convention!

Mom and baby zebra

Lots of wildebeest too

At one waterhole we see a hyena

and at Kalkheuwel we find a young elephant that has met his end.

Poor thing

We wonder what could have caused it – we cannot see his head but the rest of the body doesn’t seem to be injured. As we are on our way to the next camp there is no chance that we can return to see what will take advantage of this freely available carcass.

At 9 o’clock just before Batia Water Hole we find 3 cheetahs lighting in the grass – well camouflaged making photography difficult.

We continue on our way and find rhino, impala, kudu and a vulture on a nest.

We arrive at Halala at midday after visiting Goas which gives us a good show of elephants bathing and other species drinking.

After unpacking and settling in Erich and Wendy have a snooze while Earl and I go to the camp water hole. We see a few impala come down and there is some bird activity.

Golden-breasted bunting and violet-eated waxbill

At 3:30 we go back to Goas. There is very little happening at first but then Wendy calls– here come the elephants. It is fascinating watching them come down all in a line. They come extremely close to the car parked in front of us and I think the occupants are quite nervous. A male comes to join the females but they ignore him and when they leave he does not follow. We feel sorry for the poor lonely guy – but this is the way it works with elephants!

There are interesting birds to watch too.

Red-billed francolin

Double-banded Sandgrouse

Yellow-billed hornbill

We get back to camp with 8 minutes to spare before gate closing time. We go t straight to the water hole and are delighted to find two black rhino drinking. We are there just in time as after 10 minutes they leave. Some zebra start to come down but change their minds – it might be because a tawny eagle is in their way or the coming and going of the sandgrouse might make them nervous.

At quarter past six we leave to get ready for dinner at the restaurant. Our neighbours come to ask if we have a torch as they’ve spotted a honey badger raiding the bins. This delays us a bit but we manage to get photos of the cheeky creature.

Naughty Honey Badger

One is on our stoop when we got back from dinner, giving me quite a scare!

We find that we can self-cater at this cabin and will make a plan to do so tomorrow. It is very basically equipped but we have our own utensils. Unfortunately the camp shop is poorly stocked but we should be able to get meat and canned vegetables.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 9

2015-07-06 | puppy1952

Wednesday 10 June 2015 – Namutoni

We are second car out of the gate after handing in our laundry at reception on 6:10 am. The gate is meant to open at 6:25. It is light and Earl persuades the guys to open a tad earlier so were on the road by 6:15.

Giraffe are the order of the day today and we see them everywhere. They are my favourite animal as to me they are a true iconic African creature. There is nothing nicer than seeing a landscape dotted with tall giraffe.

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe. I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

Sunrise

In Etosha they seem to be darker and dustier than the Kruger giraffe. I know the males are darker and get darker and darker as they age too.

Of course Earl and I stop to see every bird and this confuses our guests. “I can’t understand it,”says Erich “You stop for a tiny little bird but drive straight past a Wildebeest.” After that we stop for every impala, springbok, ostrich and wildebeest and try to see the park through the eyes of a novice to the wilds of Africa!

Stopping for a wildebeest

A beautiful male ostrich

A friendly jackal

and a cute Steenbok

We continue and stop off at waterholes and have some interesting sightings.

An immature Gabar Goshawk

African Harrier Hawk

We return to camp just after 8 for breakfast and do not go out again until after lunch at 1:00 pm.

Earl and Erich nap for a while. Wendy goes to buy gifts at the curio shop, I go to the waterhole and walk around camp but I’m disappointed at the lack of birdlife. Then Wendy and I join up and spend some time at the pool. It is hot but the water is freezing. Wendy and I chat on our lounges and then she says, “That water looks so inviting. I think we should at least attempt a swim.” “Is that a challenge?” I ask She smiles. I get up and made my way to the shallow end and she follows. I can’t believe how cold it is but Wendy goes down one step at a time and I can’t let her outdo me. Soon we both plunge in and I gasp and yell at the chill! We swim two lengths and then get out. It is very invigorating but how crazy are we! A young German couple look at us in disbelief – Wendy pipes – When you get older you tend to do crazy things!

E came along and I walk up to give him a wet hug but he yells and won’t let me near. I plunge back into the pool and he takes a photograph!

Me in the freezing pool

Drying off in the hot sun

Our afternoon drive is just as exciting. As we make our way to the Kalkheuwel water hole, I shriek when an elephant suddenly appears on the road in front of us. He raises his trunk, trumpets loudly and charges toward us.

Earl goes into full speed reverse. He keeps his cool and as he says – Stop being naughty – to an elephant who clearly can’t hear him. But he must get a mental message because with one last trumpet he charges into the bush. “I think I might need a clean pair of underpants,” Erich declares. Phew – we all laugh nervously. Our adrenalin rush for the day.

Some creatures we see before we return

swallowtailed bee-eater

Female weaver

Lilac-breasted roller

Kori Bustard drinking

We visit the waterhole when we return but there is not much happening so we have sundowners and then go to dinner – another buffet.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 8

2015-07-05 | puppy1952

Tuesday 9 June 2015 -Namutoni

We are up early to get the car is packed and ready for our after breakfast departure.

We start our slow trip up the dirt road and stop to watch birds including purple roller,

pied babbler

Marico Fly-catcher

and yellow-billed hornbill

We are some kilometres away when it suddenly strikes me that I have left my expensive ski-jacket in the cupboard in our room. There is a quick u turn as we race back to get it.

On the way back we see dik dik in the bushes.

The Waterberg Plateau

Termite Hill

Finally we arrive at Namutoni. On hearing my name the receptionist says – We have had a call from Sossusvlei – It seems that you have not paid for your two guided drives. I am a bit taken aback as when I checked out I’d asked Herbert if all was in order and he’d assured me that it was. Earl goes straight into panic mode and thinks I have lost the receipt. But I only find receipts for dinners so he has to concede that the drives which should have been put onto our daily bill have been omitted. Yes – I should have checked the amounts but I’d simply written down the amounts paid by card in my meticulous records.

After calming down, we settle into our comfortable cabins, have a cold drink and then go out in the Land Rover.

Luxurious Bathroom

Comfortable sleeping quarters

We have a successful afternoon and see black-faced impala,

zebra,

giraffe,

lots of kori bustards,

northern black korhaan,

grey hornbill,

double banded courser,

a single bull elephant,

parent Burchell’s sandgrouse with 2 babies,

and a black rhino hiding among the foliage of tree he was browsing.

It is a good start to our stay in Etosha National Park! When we get back to camp, Wendy and I browse around the fort shops and late we have dinner in the restaurant – a buffet which is acceptable.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 7

2015-07-04 | puppy1952

Monday 8 June 2015 Windhoek to The Waterberg Plateau

Our hostess, Anthea, cooks us a superb breakfast and tries to get an appointment with dentist for Erich because he has broken a tooth. Unfortunately he is unable to see him straight away and as Erich is in no pain he decides to leave it until we return to Windhoek in a week’s time.

The birds are active at the feeding table and bird bath and before we leave I take a few photographs of these cute little blue waxbills and black-throated canaries.

On our way to the Waterberg Platteaux we stop to shop and refuel at Okahandju. The street markets look interesting so we decide to browse. The traders are pushy and call for us to come into their shops. We look at some necklaces and small bowls in one and ask how much. He shows us a hugely inflated price on the calculator on his cell phone and says – “This is my normal price – but because you are my first customer today – I will give it to you for less.” The price offered is still way too much so I help Wendy bargain. “$400 is my final offer.” I tell him after haggling for several minutes. He looks upset and annoyed and shakes his head so we turn to leave. He calls us back – Fine -You can have it all for $400 but it means I will starve!”

We wanted to browse at some more shops but the pushiness of the traders put us off and we escaped as fast as we could. It’s a pity – because if they offered a reasonalbe price to begin with they would get more customers and make more money! Every trader who approached us after this began with – because you’re my first customer, I will give you a special price!

Earl decides to buy some braai meat and salads as he has a feeling that there might be a place to braai at The Waterberg. When I booked in I was told there was no self-catering at any of the Namibian Wildlife Reserve chalets.

When we check in, we find that we could have had one chalet instead of 2. The person who booked me in had not explained that I only needed one chalet for 4 people although she knew perfectly well I was booking for 4! There is a fridge and kettle in the chalet but it is not equipped with any other catering utensils. There is, however, a braai! I have my own catering equipment so we are delighted to be able to have a home cooked meal for a change. The cottages are clean and comfortable and banded mongoose are there to welcome us.

After snacking on last night’s leftovers from Joe’s Beer House we go for a 4 hour game drive on the plateaux. It is fun and we see giraffe, sable, buffalo, springbok, impala, eland and kudu. We hope to see the rhino but no luck in this respect!

Wendy and Erich at the viewpoint on the plateau

It is warm travelling up to the plateau but the sun is setting on our return and so the chill sets in. Luckily we have our warm jackets and rugs with us. There are also rugs available on the vehicle.

We have a lovely braai for supper and turn in early so as to be ready to leave for Etosha tomorrow.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 6

2015-07-03 | puppy1952

Sunday 7 June 2015 Sossusvlei to Windhoek

We are up and ready to for breakfast at 6:30 sharp, enjoy a leisurely breakfast, take photos of a hot air balloon over the mountains, check out and set off for Windhoek.

The highlight is travelling over the Spreetshoogte Pass. Meaning: Spreeth’s Peak Pass. It connects the Namib Dessert with the Khomas Highland by traversing the Great Escarpment and is the steepest pass in Namibia.

The pass was erected during World War II by farmer Nicolaas Spreeth, after whom it is named. He owned the farm Ubib just at the foot of the escarpment. Whenever goods were delivered to his farm they would be dropped at a bus stop at farm Namibgrens (English: Namib border) on top of the mountain. To gather them the choice was to either travel via Remhoogte Pass approximately 30 kilometres (19 mi) southwards, or to trek uphill along existing Zebra paths.

Spreeth decided to do the latter, fortifying the path with quartzite rocks whenever he undertook the journey. Soon the bright white rocks formed a line that could be spotted from a distance. Spreeth even catered for motor vehicles (not very strong at that time), placing long, flat patches of road ahead of every steep ascent. He built the pass literally with his own hands. To flatten obstacles he used dynamite.

Here we go

Our hostess is not home when we arrive at Anjo Villa Guest House so we duck to the local supermarket café and have a coffee before checking in.

What a charming place it is. After unpacking we sit under the trees and have a glass of wine and a chat, download emails using the free wi-fi and at 4:30 make our way into Windhoek. As advised by Anthea we pop into Joe’s Beerhouse for a drink but are so fascinated by the place we decide to stay for dinner. It is a series of outdoor enclosures and spaces filled with all sorts of memorabilia and relics of the past and present. Basically it’s junk made to look interesting. Possibly each piece has a history and a story behind it. We wander about enjoying the exhibition and then sit at a table next to a roaring fire in the middle of the boma where we eat. Wendy and I enjoy Kessler and sauerkraut, Earl has lamb shank and Erich eisbein. They both have to get doggy bags as the portions are so huge.

After that we head to the casino, have a cup of tea and lose some money before coming back for an early night.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 5

2015-07-02 | puppy1952

Saturday 6 June 2015 Sossusvlei

Our wake-up call is a knock on the door at 4:30 am. It is a tad chilly and we all meet wrapped up in fleeces and warm jackets. It is an hour’s drive to the sunrise spot. We take photos of the rising sun before climbing a high dune.

Dune Sunrise

The name, Sossusvlei, comes from two languages – Sossus is the Nama word meaning No Return – or – Dead End. Vlei is the Afrikaans word for marsh or pan. The actual Sossusvlei is a salt and clay pan which fills with water on the rare occasion that it rains. There is no water in it when we visit. The name “Sossusvlei” also refers to the surrounding area (including other neighbouring vleis such as Deadvlei and other high dunes), which is one of the major visitor attractions of Namibia. The area has many high sand dunes of a vivid pinkish/orangish/reddish colour caused by the high content of iron in the sand and the consequent oxidation processes. The older the dune, the redder the colour. Big Daddy is 380m high and this is the one we climb!

Big Daddy

Erich at the top

The dry pans look white because of the high salt content

Wendy does well but has a height phobia so decides to go back down after a while. As we climb it seems to get steeper and steeper with each footfall! There are a number of other climbers, some in groups, some individual. We have a photographic group in front of us so they keep stopping to take interesting and creative photographs giving us an excuse to rest frequently! We are supposed to descend at a certain point and go down to Deadvlei but I turn back and go the way I came meeting Sammy on his way up and he tells me to return so as to get to Deadvlei with him. Omiword – another upward climb before I can descend! I am feeling a bit shaky – from low blood pressure or altitude intolerance – or perhaps I’m just not fit enough for dune climbing!

The descent is lovely. We make our way to Deadvlei where the trees have been dead for almost a thousand years. There is underground water so there is a grove of green trees there too. We wonder around and take creative photos and then make our way back to the vehicle.

Looking across to one of the dunes

A short drive to Sossusvlei and we disembark once again where we find a beautifully laid breakfast table set up by Sammy who then presents us with cereal, fruit salad, yoghurt, cold meats, boiled eggs and fresh bread. Wow. The Cape Sparrows think it was for them and twitter away in the trees until we give in and feed them a few crumbs.

Our return trip takes us past all the amazing dunes and we marvel at the shapes and contrasting colours. We stop to photograph Dune 45 so named because it is 45 km from Sossus Dune Lodge.

By now it is hot and we all take off the outer layers. Back at the lodge I have a shower and change into shorts.

I put on cargo pants and take a fleece to fly over the dunes in the afternoon. We have to go to another lodge just outside the park to get our over-dune flight. We pay our fare, receive proper tickets and fill in an indemnity form at the Adventure Activity desk and then are taken to the airfield by one of the staff who also explains where we would go and what signals the pilot would give to indicate what he sees below. Unfortunately the plane is not equipped with earphones! Loubser is our pilot and we are his fifth trip of the day. I am feeling only a tad nervous having recently been up in a light aircraft with Abri and survived! This plane is a little bigger but not as comfortable as Abri’s. But I can open a tiny square in my window to take photographs which makes a big difference. I will let the photos tell the story.

Sossus Dune Lodge from the air

The Dunes

Wave after wave of them

Old Mining Settlement

The dunes stretch all the way to the sea

The Wreck

Seal Colony

Dinner this evening is kudu steak for me and Earl and pork for the Schoffls. After our long and exciting day we are in bed by 8 o’clock.

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari Day 4

2015-07-01 | puppy1952

Friday 5 June 2015 – Sossus Dune Lodge

We wake at 6 and Earl and I watch the second half of another movie – The Journey of Charley and Hooch – or some such name – an Australian movie starring Paul Hogan.

We then join Erich and Wendy for breakfast which is really good – continental cheeses and cold meats, cereals and yogurt and eggs to order.

Our trip to Sossuvlei is interesting. We enjoy the changing scenery and arrive at Sossus Dune Lodge at 12 noon.

Earl goes into frantic mode because he can’t see the sign to the lodge. I have to calm him down to a panic before he realises that we are right there. We go through the gate, give our details and then go to the reserve reception to pay the conservation fee.

It is still another 2km to the lodge and when we arrive we see some distant huts.

Earl once again has a nervous breakdown at the thought of having to drag luggage a fair distance to the door. However, we are ushered into an undercover parking and met by an open land rover and told, “We will take you and your luggage from here.”

We are duly delivered to the lodge reception and I go ahead to book in. Outside reception a charming and cheerful Herbert greets me and asks me to wait just a few minutes. Earl and the others arrive and my stressed out hubby immediately attacks me – Why haven’t you checked in? – I have to have a few firm words with him to calm down and wait to do as he is told. He decides that to cross me further will not be in his best interests and nervously paces until Herbert ushers us into reception and brings refreshing glasses of litchi juice for each of us. We fill in the visitors book and he then eloquently explains what is on offer at Sossus Dune Lodge. He stares straight at Earl and says – Do not worry about your luggage, sir – it will be delivered to your cabin – so Earl is able to breathe again. He gives us the details of where we will be lodged, what trips we can book and what and when meals will be served. And so within the first half hour of our arrival a sunset drive, sunrise drive and air flip over the dunes is organised! Tea and coffee is free unless it’s cappuccino, complementary water is in our fridges, breakfast will be served at the sunrise drive venue and snacks will be freely available on the sunset drive too!

We have cabin 13 and 14 right in front of the waterhole and first off we find gemsbok drinking and later springbok and warthog appear.

Very comfy beds

Enormous bathroom

The waterhole is right in front of our chalet

We meet our guide, Sammy, at quarter past four and along with four British tourists climb into a really nice carriage which is glassed in so that we do not get too cold! It is warm at first and we drive with the windows down. Sammy is an excellent guide and stops to show us oryx and gives information about the bachelor herds and age of the buck we see. Because we are with him we can go to areas that self-drive cars may not. We stop at Elim dune first and find a fallen down sociable weaver nest. The birds are there too.

Community nest built by the industrious socialbe weavers.

Gemsbok (oryx) blending into the dune

At our sunset spot Sammy sets up a table with snacks and drinks. We watch beautiful sunset while sipping our sundowners.

Wendy ad Earl

It is dark on our return trip and we are most grateful for the glassed in doors.

Dinner at the lodge is a set menu with a choice of chicken or beef. We skip the soup starter and all chose the Hawaiian Chicken served with pasta. It is delicious.

Dinner at Sossus Dune Lodge

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 2 and Day 3

2015-06-29 | puppy1952

Wednesday 3 June 2015 Ai Ais

We are all in the pool by quarter to 8 this morning. Erich and Wendy are earlier than we are. They’ve had tea on their stoop and had watched the sun rise! The water is divinely warm. My eyes are itchy from allergies and I am sure the water is making them feel better or is it a placebo effect? Whatever, I feel great relaxing in these soothing waters.

After our swim we go off to breakfast and sit chatting till 10. Then we go for a walk around the lodge, admire the scenery and find some birds.

At 1 Earl and I go for an hour-long full body massage which is divine. Erich and Wendy each had half-hour back massages. Afterwards we have a long afternoon nap. When we wake up we go for a lovely, long swim in the hot baths. I stay in a lot longer than Earl and chat to a Grade 11 girl who had just completed the 6-day hike of the Fish River Canyon. She tells me it was amazing but she is exhausted and every muscle is aching.

Earl comes to call me. Stuart and Janet have arrived. We knew they were doing a similar trip to ours at the same time and had planned to meet them in Etosha. They aren’t meant to be here but had started off from Cape Town later than planned so decided to spend the night at Ai Ais. They join us for drinks and then dinner and it is a super evening.

Relaxing in the pool

Ai Ais

Outdoor pool – Hot but the air is cold!

Baboons are a problem

Mountain Chat

Swallow-tailed bee-eater

Dinner – Earl, Stuart, Janet, Wendy

Thursday 4 June 2015 Ai Ais to Africa Sa fari Lodge

We wake to a rainy and cold day! This is not meant to happen in the month of June! After showering and packing we go to meet the others for breakfast at 7:00 am. After breakfast we all head to the Canyon Lookout. We have to pay R60 per person to drive to the lookout point but it is worth it. It’s just a pity that the weather is not clear. Still we get excellent views of the canyon and don’t mind too much about getting wet. Earl and I were here 20 years ago in brilliant sunshine and no fences. It is a little different today but the views are the same.

We then bid farewell to Janet and Stuart who head to Luderitz while we make our way to Mariental where we will spend the night at Africa Safari Lodge. The weather improves and there is no rain when we arrive at Keetmanshoop. We stop at the Spur for lunch and I buy a Namibian Sim Card at the local phone shop. My package is amazing – I pay in R295 in cash and dial in for whatever I need for a week. Each week I renew my contract until my balance runs out. I get Facebook, the internet, Whatsap and a number of free calls. whenever I return to Namibia I use the same sim card and top up my balance. I do not have to RICA!

We arrive at Africa Safari Lodge at 3:00 p.m. It is lovely. We have ‘tea’ on the stoop and then an afternoon nap.

When we wake up it is dark and we find a rhinoceros on our front lawn!

Dinner is superb. We start with Sweet Chilli Calamari and Greek salad and then have gourmet Oryx steaks with mushroom sauce and mash potato. To die for! Dessert is Apple crumble and ice cream.

Our room was is really comfortable. The bed is made from a concrete slap on which is a very comfortable mattress with down duvet. There is a television and we watch a skop, skiet and donner movie before dropping off to sleep.

Diary of an Adventurous Retiree

Making the most of the South African Lifestyle

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Days 15 ,16,17

16 June Daan Viljoen – Getting Lost in Windhoek

17 June Kalahari Tented Camp

18 June – A Lion Day

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 13 and Day 14

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

Monday June15 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 12

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 11

Friday 12 June 2015 Halali

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 10

Thursday 11 June 2015 Namutoni to Halali

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 9

Wednesday 10 June 2015 – Namutoni

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 8

Tuesday 9 June 2015 -Namutoni

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 7

Monday 8 June 2015 Windhoek to The Waterberg Plateau

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 6

Sunday 7 June 2015 Sossusvlei to Windhoek

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 5

Saturday 6 June 2015 Sossusvlei

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari Day 4

Namibia – Saffies and Aussies on Safari – Day 2 and Day 3

16 June Daan Viljoen – Getting Lost in Windhoek

17 June Kalahari Tented Camp

18 June – A Lion Day

Share this:

Sunday 14 June 2015 Okaukuejo

Monday June15 2015 Are there any Lions in Etosha?

Share this:

Saturday 13 June 2015 Halali to Okaukuejo

Share this:

Friday 12 June 2015 Halali

Share this:

Thursday 11 June 2015 Namutoni to Halali

Share this:

Wednesday 10 June 2015 – Namutoni

Share this:

Tuesday 9 June 2015 -Namutoni

Share this:

Monday 8 June 2015 Windhoek to The Waterberg Plateau

Share this:

Sunday 7 June 2015 Sossusvlei to Windhoek

Share this:

Saturday 6 June 2015 Sossusvlei

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: