Kruger National Park – Day 22

2017-12-01 | puppy1952

1 December 2017 – Transport Dam and Lake Panic

What is it that brings one back to the Kruger National Park time and time again? For many it’s the thrill of seeing the Big Five – Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and Rhino. And yes – there’s not doubt that these creatures as well as hyena, jackal, wild dog and cheetah give one an enormous thrill. But that’s not what brings me back for more. It’s more than that – it’s being in the bush, communing with nature, the trees, the peace the whole vibe of the place and especially the birds. I love to sit at a waterhole or dam and observe the activity of the waders, the weavers, herons and kingfishers. I can’t put into words how awesome it is. I know that some people raise their eyebrows and shake their heads and wonder what I’m on about – but I can’t help it. Put me in a hide for three hours and I will be content to just sit and watch and take in the peace and tranquility of it all.

Today was awesome. Let me tell you about it. But if your eyes have already glazed over -don’t worry – I won’t be offended if you do not read – this blog is for those who are as bird nerdy as I am!

Omigosh – as I sit here outside my caravan at 21:06 on the balmiest if evenings I hear the distant sound of a hyena calling. This is what it’s like in the middle of the African Bush! But back to today’s story.

I woke to the sound of the “Piet my Vrou” at 5:00 am this morning. This cuckoo – the red-chested cuckoo to be precise calls incessantly in the summertime but is almost impossible to find as he hides so well in the foliage of the trees. However, as I emerged from my caravan to go to the showers, wrapped in nothing but my sarong I spotted said cuckoo atop a dead tree in full view and full song! The early morning light is not good for photography and I thought – No – I don’t think this is worth a photograph but when I got to the ablutions I dumped my vanity bag, clothes and towel and dashed back to the caravan for the camera. “Patricia, ” I called outside my friend’s tent. “The Piet my Vrou is in full view. Come quickly and you will see her.” I then took several photographs, put my binoculars outside her tent as she couldn’t find hers and headed to the showers.

An early morning shot of a Red Chested Cuckoo – “Piet my Vrou”

When I was done I found a forlorn Patricia Mary. “I missed it by a second,” said she. “As i raised the binoculars to see him he flew away!” The problem was that P.M. had dallied over putting on some clothes instead of coming out half naked to see the elusive bird! But me? I have no pride! And if anybody saw a mad old woman in a sarong taking photos of an irritating bird calling at some ungodly hour and they didn’t like it – tough – I got my shot and that is all I wanted. For those of you reading who do not know the South African Birds – The call of the red-chested cuckoo sounds like the Afrikaans words – Piet my vrou meaning Pete my wife. Yes, I know it makes no sense at all.

Before we left for our morning drive we watched some little birds flitting about in the trees and were pleased to add bronze manikin to our list although the photograph is not worth publishing!

Choosing which bird is my favourite is very difficult because there are so many that I just love to see. But I definitely get a huge thrill every time I see a Saddle-Billed Stork so if pressed I would have to say that this is my favourite bird. Usually we spot them at some distance away in a pond or river but today we were hugely surprised to find on on the side of the road. She was alone, clicking her bill and hunting morsels to eat. She was not at all bothered by our presence and we were able to observe her for quite some time, first on the right side of the road and then crossing to the left where there was a midden. A dung beetle was busy doing his cleaning up job when his life came to a sudden end as Mrs SBS gobbled him up!

Our route took us to Afsaal Picnic Site where we stopped for breakfast. On the way we spotted some of our favourite creatures

What big tusks you have

This carnivorous snail is a big chap

Pearl breasted Swallow at the Afsaal

A lovely welcome from Tindlovu Rustic Kitchen at Afsaal

Afsaal is a busy stop but we were impressed with its efficiency. You can queue for take-aways or sit at a table and a waitron will take your order. We chose the latter and were highly impressed with our waitress. We dithered over our order and she treated us with patience and humour. The Earl said something annoying and I smacked him playfully. She looked at me in horror and rubbed his hand. Then we all burst out laughing. Finally she sorted out our whims and fancies and brought us a most enjoyable breakfast.

Our sassy waitress, Mpumi

Feeling fortified with food and content with our experience we continued on to Transport Dam. On the way we saw buffalo

And stopped for a loo break at Pretoriouskop

Beautiful Coral Tree

Ellie cooling off at Transport Dam

White-faced ducks

Wood Sandpiper

On our way to Skukuza we spotted a few regulars

Steenbok

Giraffe

It was very hot today and so we swam in the pool during our rest time and then Pat and I did a load of washing at the laundrette before we all went off to Lake Panic for our afternoon outing. This hide never disappoints. We spent an hour or so enjoying the business of nature going on before our eyes.

Nyala Males were having a drink and a play-fight – or were they serious?

A three-banded plover popped in for a while

There was great entertainment from green-backed herons

And Squacco Herons

Terrapins sunned themselves

Mr (below) and Mrs Pied Kingfisher fished

A paradise fly-catcher dipped in and out of the water for a bath and a drink.

Hippos conversed

A shy female nyala or three came down for a quick drink too

And two fish eagles loudly declared their love for each other

This was the best part of our day but reluctantly we had to leave.

Just before returning to camp we spotted this guy crossing the road. He scuttle off into the bush but not before turning around to say good evening.

Spotted Hyena ended our day

This evening we treated ourselves to an evening out to dinner at The Cattle Baron and it was awesome. Once again we had a smart, sassy waitress who took excellent care of our needs. It was a perfect ending to a stunning day.

Kruger National Park – Day 21

2017-12-01 | puppy1952

30 November 2017 Lower Sabie to Skukuza

It’s hard to believe that we have been in the park for three weeks now. Each day has had something special and we are still loving every moment. We now have the pack up and go routine totally sussed and everything went smoothly for our departure to Skukza this morning. Pat’s hand is very much better and she felt that she could cope helping Tony with their tent but The Earl insisted on giving a hand – we don’t want her using her wrist too much and causing it more damage!

We hit the tar road at 6:45 and Pat and Tony took the scenic route. Our first road block – elephants of course. This photograph is taken through the windscreen but I couldn’t resist the cuteness of the baby rolling on the tar.

Skukuza is only 35 km from Lower Sabie on the tar road and we did not stop for much as we just wanted to get to camp to set up. We were just done when Tony phoned to say they had arrived. We met them at reception and took them to our site. They decided not to join us for brekkie as it looked like rain and they wanted to set up before it came.

The Earl and I went to The Cattle Baron and sat under the Sycamore Fig enjoying the ambience. The service today was slow but when you’re in Africa you don’t really care. When we finally got our eggs and bacon it was delicious – and the coffee was good. While we were waiting we watched the starlings, weavers and sparrows in the tree and then The Earl said, “Hey there’s a green pigeon.” Our first for this trip! Where had they been hinding?

This elusibe Green Pigeon and three others posed beautifully for us

The spectacled weaver has a quizical look

Today was more of a rest day as it turned out to be quite hot – the rain never came. We took a short afternoon drive and these were the highlights.

Golden Breasted Bunting – he sang beautifully

Trumpeter Hornbill

Dung Beetle cleaning up the bush – such an amazingly hard worker

Dark form Wahberg’s Eagle – I think

A useful tool is the elephant’s trunk

Can’t resist the cuteness

What was he thinking getting right into the tree

Yellow-billed hornbill

This might sound repetitive – but it was a braai again tonight. Honestly there’s no better way to eat in the bush!

Kruger National Park – Day 20

2017-11-30 | puppy1952

29 November 2017 – A Day for Leopards

The weather was warm again today with the temperature reaching the mid thirties.

As I have mentioned in previous episodes – no two days are alike in Kruger. Today was a good one for seeing the “Big” guys.

The bridge gave us our first thrill of the day.

Hippos had an early morning meeting

Saddle-bill Stork and Yellow-bill egret sharing a fishing spot

Is the yellow-billed egret leading the spoonbills astray as the saddle-billed looks on?

These two Fish Eagles had a confrontation over a fish

The black-shouldered kite is usually rare in KNP but due to the drought in the West of the country many have moved East and there is now an influx of them in The Park. On one day we saw 18 of them.

Yet another Black-shouldered Kite

As we continued along the tar road we saw a single stationary car stopped on the right hand side of the road. It was open country with few trees and we couldn’t see anything at all. But we never pass a stationary car so we stopped alongside and asked – “What do you see?” “A leopard,” replied the rather good looking young man behind the wheel. He lovely wife was beside him with a huge smile on her face. “Where?” we asked and how come we hadn’t seen it? “Reverse a little and look in the biggest tree you can see over there.” he pointed.

We looked at the tree – it was far away and we saw nothing until we trained our binoculars on it. “I have him!” I said – “But how on earth did they spot that!”

The distant leopard in the far away tree

It turned out that they’d stopped just to scan the area with binoculars and the lovely wife and spotted him quite by chance! What a lucky break. Before long there were four or five cars wondering what the fuss was about. We were able to point out this special for them before we moved on.

Next we stopped at a look-out where you are allowed to get out of your car and sit in a boma to view the vast valley below. At first we saw nothing but veld and trees and then The Earl said – Omigosh – look at all the elephants!

They just kept coming – a huge herd of them

Just before we got to Tshokwane we saw a few cars staring into the bush. Another leopard! He was lying asleep under a bush, well hidden and a photograph was impossible. But when he sat up The Earl managed to get one before he walked off into the thicket.

Not our best leopard picture ever!

Tshokwane is the best picnic site in the park. The kitchen and the seating area incorporate big trees, the coffee is excellent and the food inexpensive and good.

The Shady Eating Area

The Cooking Area

With out hunger satisfied we set off again and found yet another leopard. This one was also in a tree and we could see him nicely. But we did not manage to get a photograph.

we also saw lots of elephants today. At Orpen Dam Lookout we watched them come down and have fun in the mud.

Orpen Dam Lookout

The View

Elephants having a confrontation

Mud glorious Mud – Mum, I think I may be stuck!

Don’t worry – you’ll get out

White-faced ducks and glossy ibis were also enjoying the dam

We spent a long time out this morning and enjoyed many fascinating sightings.

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Red-crested korhaan

Male Kudu

Playful Zebra

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Giraffe and Elephants

Follow the leader

Scary Crocodile

Black Heron

Mischieveous Monkeys

We have seen rhino a few times this trip but I am not mentioning on what day nor on which roads in case some poaching criminal comes across this blog and it helps him find his target. Rhino are being poached at an alarming rate although Sanparks are going to great lengths to put anti-poaching measures in place. We are delighted to have seen many men in camouflage patrolling and checking and we have heard that recent arrests have been made.

A Happy Rhinoceros – Long may he remain safe from poachers

It was another perfect evening in The Park although the weather had clouded over. We enjoyed The Earl’s chicken wing starter and a braai of chops, steak and boerewors with sweet potatoes and a lovely Greek Salad before retiring for the night. Yes another great day in Africa.

Kruger National Park – Day 19

2017-11-29 | puppy1952

28 November 2017 – Even The Bad Days Are Good So Long As I Am In Kruger

No two days in a game reserve are ever the same. Some days the creatures appear around every corning and the adrenaline pumps all day long as one predator sighing after another pops up. On others you can drive for miles through beautiful countryside but with hardly a sign of life and you wonder if Scotty has beamed the wildlife up from the earth and then all of a sudden they’re there again and you once again exclaim in awe and wonder at the sight of gentle impala or strikingly beautiful zebra.

We started off early this morning on the H4-1 and enjoyed some good birding and saw all the regulars. We took several loops until we came to Skukuza where we had breakfast at The Cattle Baron which overlooks the Sabie River. It is an awesome venue.

The Jacobin Cuckoo

Who can resist all this cuteness?

Always great to see the red-crested korhaan

Red-billed Oxpeckers grooming a kudu

After breakfast The Earl said he would not take me to my favourite hide – Lake Panic – as our next camp would be Skukuza and we would have five days to spend there! But then he told our friends that he might have a grumpy wife for a few hours so stopped there anyway! What a brilliant spot. I could have stayed there all day. The lesser masked weavers were busy with nest building, the African Black Crake was busy seeking snacks, a squacco hero fished and so did a green-backed heron. We saw several pied kingfishers and a little malachite as well.

Lesser-Masked Weaver

Female Pied Kingfisher

Male Pied Kingfisher

Green-backed Heron

Expert at fishing

Squacco Heron

All fluffed up

A terrapin is always fun to see

Mom and baby hippo

It was an elephant day today and although we’ve seen many we still get a thrill with each new heard we encounter.

Suddenly the hills were alive with elephants

They came down and surrounded us

Later we came upon a huge herd, quietly marching through the trees to a waterhole. It’s quite scary when they wave their trunks at you, trumpet loudly and then pass you by with a nonchalant gait.

At the waterhole

Getting the hang of using that trunk

A friendly play fight – or not?

Some of the animals we meet are remarkable human

I’m safe here with Mom

How adorable is that!

Yes – even a quiet day in Kruger is thrilling.

Kruger National Park – Day 18

2017-11-28 | puppy1952

27 November – Lower Sabie

Once again the mercury dropped and we we back in jeans and fleeces all day today. We took a drive to Crocodile Bridge Camp where we bought pies and coffee for breakfast as they do not have breakfast facilities. These are the highlights of what we saw there and back,

A pair of wattled starlings in a tree

Woodland’s Kingfisher

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

It is the season for baby animals in The Park – Here a young impala is trying to get him mother to stand up so he can have a drink!

Yellow-billed Kite

When we got back to Lower Sabie we went to restaurant where there is a deck overlooking the Sabie River. We took a walk along the boardwalk and this is what we saw.

Red-billed oxpecker cleaning ears

Red-backed mannikin

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Swee Waxbill

White-browed Robin

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In the afternoon we went for a drive along the S122

These are the highlights

This rather large crocodile seen as we crossed the bridge

Male red-crested korhaan

Female red-crested Korhaan

Baby red-crested korhaan

Scrub Hare

We saw lions on two occasions but they were just lying around!

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We had a bit of a scare with elephants a few times. I think they have a sense of humour and tease the tourists. Sometimes you come upon them all of a sudden and they raise their trunks and trumpet at you giving you an awful fright. Today as we drove toward home we noticed a car ahead – a young couple we’d chatted to earlier – but now they were rapidly reversing toward us – because an elephant was coming down the road and they were afraid to upset him by driving past. We decided to reverse too and then the other car came along side us. The ellie was some distance away and both cars had a chance to turn around. The Earl decided not to move away but said, If he comes too close I’ll be able to race off but I think he’ll move into the bush. Of course he was right. As soon as Ellie saw this can of tourists wasn’t getting out of his way he veered off into the bush.

To end our drive we stopped at Sunset Dam and watched a pair of hippos have a confrontation.

Another exciting day in Africa ended with a lovely braai.

Kruger National Park – Day 17

2017-11-27 | puppy1952

26 November 2017 – Satara to Lower Sabie

After the rain during the night, we thought we might have a wet pack-up this morning but although it was still overcast and cool the rain held off. And by the afternoon the temperature rose to 35 degrees C.

We packed up, hitched the caravan, helped P&T with their tent and were on the H1-3 by 6:40 am. P&T did some loops but we like to stick to the tar roads when we’re towing. The plan was to meet them at Tshokwane for breakfast.

Usually the tar roads are a little boring regarding sightings but today we were lucky.

At Punda Maria we’d seen the crested guineafowl which are not as common as the helmeted guineafowl and today the first one for the trip turned up.

Elephants crossed in front of us and showed us their bums.

I have been looking for the weird and wonderful knob-billed duck and today he turned up in an unexpected place

Knob-billed duck perched on top of a dead tree

Then we came upon a road block of cars and caravans

A mating pair of lions

Just having a break

We managed to get through the crush of cars and continued until the next road block!

We made it to this spot just in time as the leopard was on the move and soon disappeared into the bush. This was just 1km from the picnic site.

Tshokwane Picnic Site

The Tshokwane picnic site serves a delicious Early Bird breakfast of egg, bacon and tomato with toast for only R25. Coffee, of course, is extra but it is the best coffee in the park! Pat and Tony caught up to us just as we put our order in and they ordered the same. Should you ever find yourselves in KNP and at this picnic site, be aware that there is a huge problem with monkeys and baboons. Guard your food!

On the remainder of the trip we continued to have some lovely sightings.

A Zebra Crossing

European Roller

Elephants decorating the hillside

Elephants scaring The Earl silly

We arrived at camp at around 11 am and got set up and then had a rest. Pat and Tony arrived at 2 after taking the scenic route.

We all went out together again for short drive at 4 pm. The birding was good first on the bridge overlooking the Sabie River.

Giant Kingfisher

Mommy Egyptian Goose with goslings

Opened-bill Storks

Catching something tasty

Then we went to the famous Sunset Dam. We saw some special birds but with the sun setting photography was difficult.

I managed a good shot of the white crowned lapwing

Sunset Dam

Pied Kingfisher admiring the sunset

It was a perfect evening our sweet husbands did a splendid braai for supper

Thanks Guys

Kruger National Park – Day 16 – Satara

2017-11-26 | puppy1952

25 November 2017 – An Awesome Day

After yesterday’s heat we woke to rain this morning – very welcome as The Park is dry and they need their rains. It was also quite cold but nothing dampens ones spirits when in The Park. A Bad Day in Kruger is still better than a Good Day at home.

By 6:35 we were exploring the H7. As usual we stopped for every interesting bird. We saw common waxbill flitting about and while we were enjoying them we heard the familiar clicks and then kyip, kyip kyip – the call of the Red-Crested Korhaan. Then we saw him strutting across the road. He then flew up and tumbled down free-fall style. What an awesome bird. We expected he was showing off for a female but she was clearly not interested as she remained hidden.

Next to pop up unexpectedly was this chap.

We saw the usual suspects too, elephant, zebra, kudu etc before turning onto the S39. This drive was good too and we found a tawny eagle and some vultures. As we trundled along we saw two cars alongside of each other up ahead. “Either they’re friends having a chat about their next route or the one is telling the other what he has seen. I bet it’s a leopard,” said I.
As we approached, the one pulled away and parked in front. The other indicated that we should take his place. ” If you look carefully – you will see a leopard,” he told us. We looked but couldn’t see anything so went ahead a little way and watched some birds. The second car left but the first remained. He must still have it we thought so we reversed to take another look. Oh Wow. There he was – quite a big male but still well hidden under the tree.

Oh those wild eyes

J need my rest, you know

Here’s looking at you, kid!

How long are you planning on staying ?

Reluctantly we left the scene to let the next car have a chance and soon reached Timbavati Picnic site where we hired a skottel and cooked breakfast. It was raining a bit but we were quite dry under the thatch shelters.

Our return trip produced more hyena and lovely birds but it was raining so photography was a bit difficult. Back at camp we had a rest. At 3:30 I went to see if Pat and Tony were awake – they weren’t so I told The Earl that we should skip an afternoon drive. But when they woke at 4 they were still keen to go out and so at 4:30 we hit the S100. I had a strange feeling that something exciting would turn up and Pat voiced the same thought.

Sure enough we got a lovely surprise. We found the occupants of two vehicles staring into the distance. We could just see the flick of a tail and a twitch of an ear. Another car approached and asked what there was. We told her not much and then one of the lionesses got up and moved! We then all go lovely views of her and the other one until they disappeared in the undergrowth again. We thought we might find them on our return route but they were nowhere around.

It was certainly worth going for that short drive to find our lions!

You would think camp cooking would be problematic when the weather is cold and wet. But we were lucky. The rain held off and we were quite content to sit under our canopy and enjoy a fabulous meal cooked once again by our Bush Master Chef. It was a most delicious chicken and vegetable dish cooked on the Snappy Chef. (Induction Stove)

The resident hyenas patrolled past the fence quite frequently. One actually stopped and stared at us as if to say – Please share your meal with me! But of course we said – No way – go and hunt your own food!

It rained in the night and we expected a wet pack up the next morning!

Kruger National Park – Day 15 – Satara

2017-11-25 | puppy1952

24 November – Birds and Hyenas

There are no words to describe the thrill one has when one is woken in the night or early in the morning by the sounds of the bushveld. We have heard the shrill laugh of the hyena the howl of the jackals and the roar of lions on several occasions since being in The Park. This morning the hyenas were particularly vocal and urged me out of bed before 5 am. Pat had heard them and the lions too so was also up a the same rude hour.

We were meant to leave be out the gate by 6 am but it was a little after that before we hit the H1-3

First up was a zebra crossing and then a number of lovely bird sightings.

African Harrier Hawk – getting his adult plumage

Soon we turned onto the H6

A Swainson’s Spurfowl in full voice

Purple Roller

Isn’t the baby impala too cute

The H6 is famous for hyena sightings and we were not disappointed

These two were on a mission

They were not the only two we saw – there were many lying fast asleep. Clearly they’d had a hard night!

These two opened weary eyes to check us out

We also met up with wildebeest

A handsome ostrich

And this magnificent Martial Eagle

By 7:35 we’d turned onto the S37 where a herd of Impala scared The Earl silly by leaping in front of the car without warning. Luckily we were going slowly as one must in a game reserve.

At 8:30 we got out at Sweni Hide and had a good time observing the activity there.

A water buck and herd of impala came down to drink

This yellow-billed stork sat on its haunches

Then she lay right down.

Perhaps standing on one leg gets a bit exhausting

The grey heron walked post cranky crocodile without a care in the world

And went to chat to the storks

Next we went to Sweni Picnic site which has a hide overlooking the river but there was not much to see. However, we got a lovely puffback in the picnic area.

Not easy to get this very vocal bird as he hides in the foliage. Here he’s nicely puffed up.

We then followed the S41. The birding was good

We watched a bateleur catch and eat a mouse

Near the river we observed thousands of quelea swarming and hanging in the trees. Pat suggested a good collective noun for them – A cloud of quelea.

There were “Clouds” of Quelea everywhere

We then joined the S100 and had some good sightings along that route.

Trumpeter Hornbill

Great to get the pale form Wahburg Eagle

When he flew to another tree we saw this barn owl with its wings hanging down over the branch – very odd.

Barn Owl acting strangely

We also enjoyed the giraffe and zebra

We had planned to come back to camp for breakfast but only made it there by midday so instead went to The Rustic Kitchen for lunch. Pat and I enjoyed a chicken salad and the men had chicken may toasties.

We went out again at 4 pm and did the S100.

This male waterbuck was very relaxed

The Sabota Lark got some dinner

A puffed up purple roller

It was cool this morning but the temperature rose to 35 in the afternoon. Pat and Tony cooked chicken kebabs, butternut and sweet potato on the braai which we served with a Greek Salad.

Ánother ‘lousy’ day in Africa!

Kruger National Park – Day 14 – Satara

2017-11-25 | puppy1952

23 November 2017 – Letaba to Satara and The S100.

After yesterday’s 40 degree C heat we woke to cooler conditions today. In fact the mercury dropped by 20 degrees!

We were packed up and ready to roll by 7:00 o’clock. Pat and Tony were to follow after going to reception to find out about getting Pat to a doctor.

The first excitement walked toward us on the tar road. Mom, Dad and Little One

Come on Mom and Dad – keep up!

Then they veered off the road and passed by the car. We got a shot of Mom – or Dad – difficult to tell the sexes apart.

She seems to be smiling about something.

When we arrived at Satara we got a call from Tony. They were on their way and would set up camp and then head to Skukuza to see the camp doctor.

We set up next to the fence at the North-west side of camp. There were quite a few interesting birds hanging around and posing for their portraits.

Red-billed Buffalo-weaver

Burchell’s Starling

Grey-headed Sparrow

When Pat and Tony arrived we helped them set up and then went to have breakfast at the restaurant. They managed to get an appointment for 2 o’clock and set off for Skukuza at midday.

Earl and I had a rest and then at 3 pm set off to do a stretch of the S100, turning around and retracing our route so as to be back in camp in time. The drive there produced some common residents.

My favourite creatures

Zebs had a dust bath

A stripe of zebra

Delighted to have this red-faced mousebird sit still for a second

This non-breeding shaft-tailed whydah had us guessing for a while

Red-billed quelea

We hoped to see a lot more as the S100 is famous for seeing both lion and leopard – but not luck there. However, the birding was good.

A lovely surprise – Trumpeter Hornbill

Male Red-backed shrike

Bateleur Female

Bateleur Male

Seeing the trumpeter hornbill was special for me and I counted that as the highlight of the day. I was in a bit of a complacent dream when suddenly I saw it, just a short distance away, so well camouflaged in the dry grass. “There’s a cheetah!” I called out to The Earl. “Where?” he said. “There,” I pointed. “Where’s there!” he was frustrated.

“Stop!” I yelled. “He’s going to come out in front of the car.” And then he saw it too.

: What a brilliant surprise

We had him all to ourselves

The beautiful boy!

He crossed the road and then moved off into the distance. We watched until he disappeared over the ridge. A car approached – just a minute too late. We were the only ones to have seen him!

Pat and Tony were back from the Skukuza by 6:15. Pat’s wrist is badly sprained and the doctor strapped it into a brace. She is comfortable but may have to have x-rays if the swelling doesn’t go down.

As it was so cool we decided that a stew would be best for dinner tonight. Once again our Master Chef of the Bushveld put our snappy chef and smartspace pots to excellent use and we dined in style once again.

Kruger National Park – Day 13

2017-11-24 | puppy1952

22 November 2017 – Birthday Surprises

I am celebrating my birthday in my most favourite place in the world. Who could ask for a better gift than that! And all my birthday wishes came true today. The creatures of the Kruger National Park popped up to say Hi.

I had no plans to celebrate in any way – just being here was enough for me. But my darling husband arranged for us to make a breakfast stop at Mopani Rest Camp because they have such a lovely restaurant overlooking the Luluvu River. Letaba’s restaurant is closed and there is only The Rustic Kitchen to replace it. This meant quite a long drive there but we had some lovely sightings and every time something interesting happened, Pat said, “Happy Birthday, Helen!”

And it did seem as if though some of the animals knew it was my special day. A giraffe crossed the road, stopped and looked right at me ane I believe sent me a birthay greeting.

And so did this buffalo!

Who’s the birthday girl then?

This warthog provided some amusing entertainment

Mud, glorious mud

I need a good scratch

Oh Hi, didn’t see you there – Happy Birthday

Birding is our passion and today we saw some lovely specials

Marsh Sandpiper

White-Crested Helmet-Shrike

Red-billed Ox-peckers on a buffalo’s back

Namaqua Dove

Kori Bustard

My birthday breakfast was fantastic. What a view we had and what lovely birds we saw from the deck.

The deck at the Mopani Restaurant

A really scrumptious breakfast

The temperature got up to 40 degrees C today but we were relatively cool in our airconditioned vehicle. However, opening the windows to take photographs let in the hot air and by the time we got back to Letaba we were all ready for a swim.

In the pool I chatted to an older lady who was such an inspiration. She and her hubby were still travelling and having lovley holidays together. Then she went out and the next thing I knew she’d slipped and fallen. I leapt out of the pool to see how she was. How amazing was her attitude. “I’m fine,” she said, “It’s just my dignity that’s damaged!” There were two young men immediately on the scene and her husband said, “Don’t pull her up by her arms.” He put a towel under her arms and then said, “Pull her up using the towel.” It worked perfectly and she was absolutely fine.

I went in for a little longer and then we all got out and would you believe – Pat slipped and landed flat on her back hitting her hand hard as she fell. Oh horror! We used the towel trick to get her up too. Unfortunately her hand was really hurt. Back at camp we iced it and I put an ice-pack in the freezer that she could use in the night. Earl strapped her up as best he could and she insisted that she would be fine. (I am writing this two days later so I can report that she went to Skukuza the next day to consult a doctor and is now in a brace and on medication for the pain. If the swelling does not go down she will have to have x-rays but right now she is comfortable.)

Without my noticing, The Earl slipped into the park shop at Mopani and bought a bottle of champagne which he chilled in the car fridge. So when we were about to pour our sundowners out came the champers to celebrate my 65th birthday!

Cheers! ( I’m sure my sister approves)

The Earl refused to let anybody help with the preparation of my celebratory meal tonight and presented us with a Master Chef quality chicken dish. It was to die for.

Enjoying my dinner in the bush

Pat with injured wrist on ice managed with one hand

Another African day under the belt!

Kruger National Park – Day 12 – Letaba

2017-11-23 | puppy1952

21 November 2017 – Birds and Dogs

“Stop! A Bird of Prey!” yelled one of us in the car. “What bird is that?!”

“An immature Bateleur,” I said confidently. “No way,” came the reply. “Nothing like a bateleur.”
“Look carefully,” I instructed in my school teacher voice. “The shape of the head, the crest, the short tail, the general shape of the bird. It’s a bateleur. My granddaughter could have told you that when she was 10!”

Much searching through the field guide ensued until finally they concurred. Of course, it is indeed a Bateluer!

The adult is more striking – photos of one in a later blog I hope

The next exciting call out was for the behaviour of a bird rather than the often seen bird itself. Hornbills make their nests in the holes in the trunk of trees. When it is done the mother hornbill enters the nest, lays her eggs and sheds her feather and the father closes up the hole and only lets her out once the chicks are hatched. She is completely reliant on him for food after that. Today we saw a pair who we believe were preparing a nest. They usually inspect a site together and then begin to line it.

Inspecting the nest

Harry – I think this hole will do

One of the birds whose call sounds like an engine running is the Crested Barbet. You hear it before you see it.

Finally he posed for a portrait

Not as pretty as the lilac breasted roller – The European Roller is still a stunning bird

We were lucky to get this red-breasted swallow sitting still for a minute

We went out fairly late for our afternoon drive and enjoyed seeing some of the usual elephant, buffalo and buck. We were cruising along the tar road to get back to camp in time when we saw a few stationary cars ahead – always a sign that something exciting has been spotted. And sure enough there they were! The third sighting of these creature for The Earl and me but P&T had not had the privilege yet.

Oh dear they’re so well hidden in the undergrowth – and sleepy too!

Oh good – one has his head up

Omigosh one is getting up!

He marked his territory right next to our car

Who are you guys anyway!

The leader scurried about, marking his territory and doing some ablutions and then the whole pack got up and scurried through the bush.

No better way to end your day than with a great sighing of African Wild Dog!

Kruger National Park – Day 11

2017-11-21 | puppy1952

20 November 2017 Letaba to Olifants

Once again it was very hot in the Kruger National Park today. We are caravanning/tenting at Letaba Camp and are so grateful for the shady trees. It is not difficult to get up at 5 in the morning here. Natures alarm rouses you with the cheerful dawn chorus of the birds.

By 6:15 we left to drive along the Letaba River to Olifants Camp where we had breakfast. When The Earl and I used to stay in the chalets, Olifant’s was our favourite camp. They don’t have camping facilities so we’re not staying there this time round.

We had a stunning time there and back, as the birding was fantastic. What fun we had watching their antics and debating what species we were observing. Although we’re not the type of birders that chase after rare birds to get our tick list up, we do keep holiday lists and try to see as many species as The Kruger will show us. Today we did pretty well.

Scenes like these never fail to give one a thrill.

P1110353 P1110359 P1110360

Along the way there are many little ‘omrits’ or loops that take you closer to the river so you can get a better view. There you can stop and enjoy the birds. At our first omrit we heard the Diederick Cuckoo. He tends to hide among the foliage of the trees so when he posed in the open for us, we were thrilled.

Diederick’s Cuckoo

We also got this beautiful kingfisher

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

The small creatures of the bushveld are just as exciting as the larger predators. Seeing two scrub hares was a real highlight as they’re shy and not often seen.

Scrub Hare

In the shallows of the river there was a great deal of activity.

Great Egret

Yellow-billed stork and Egyptian Goose were wondering what all the fuss was about

What a handsome fellow is the Saddle-billed Stork

As we left our omrit to get back onto the road again we got an enormous scare when we found this chap blocking the road. Luckily there was another track that bypassed him.

The leaves are yummy and I’m not moving til I’m done,

You’d be surprised how hungry intense birding can making you. Our many stops to see the feathered friends delayed our breakfast time and we were starving by the time we reached Olifants. The Rustic Kitchen is set up there too. It is at the lookout point which is just the most stunning venue. Hopefully, they will be there for a very long time!

view from The Rustic Kitchen

There was a treeful of Marico Sunbirds just outside the entrance to the old restaurant.

Our return trip was even more enjoyable than our trip there. We went to the low-level bridge across the Olifant’s River and didn’t want to leave as there was so much activity to watch. The highlight was a green-backed heron that kept hiding behind the rocks but then eventually emerged and showed us how to catch your own breakfast.

Wood Sandpiper

Reed Comorant

He caught a fish

Finally the green-backed heron gave us a show

The Grey Heron doesn’t mind showing himself to the world

We were very happy with our mornings sightings and returned to camp for or midday rest. We went out again for a short drive to Matambeni hide and were back by 6:15 These were the best photographs I could get.

Terrapins sunning themselves on a lovely flat rock

There were many crocodiles and we watched them swimming slyly through the water before some decided to slither up onto dry ground.

Pat and Tony were the designated cooks tonight and they made us a delicious beef stir-fry on their skottel. Who would believe you could eat so well in the middle of the African Bushveld.

Diary of an Adventurous Retiree

Making the most of the South African Lifestyle

Kruger National Park – Day 22

1 December 2017 – Transport Dam and Lake Panic

Kruger National Park – Day 21

30 November 2017 Lower Sabie to Skukuza

Kruger National Park – Day 20

29 November 2017 – A Day for Leopards

Kruger National Park – Day 19

28 November 2017 – Even The Bad Days Are Good So Long As I Am In Kruger

Kruger National Park – Day 18

27 November – Lower Sabie

Kruger National Park – Day 17

26 November 2017 – Satara to Lower Sabie

Kruger National Park – Day 16 – Satara

25 November 2017 – An Awesome Day

Kruger National Park – Day 15 – Satara

24 November – Birds and Hyenas

Kruger National Park – Day 14 – Satara

23 November 2017 – Letaba to Satara and The S100.

Kruger National Park – Day 13

22 November 2017 – Birthday Surprises

Kruger National Park – Day 12 – Letaba

21 November 2017 – Birds and Dogs

Kruger National Park – Day 11

20 November 2017 Letaba to Olifants

1 December 2017 – Transport Dam and Lake Panic

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30 November 2017 Lower Sabie to Skukuza

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29 November 2017 – A Day for Leopards

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28 November 2017 – Even The Bad Days Are Good So Long As I Am In Kruger

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27 November – Lower Sabie

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26 November 2017 – Satara to Lower Sabie

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25 November 2017 – An Awesome Day

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24 November – Birds and Hyenas

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23 November 2017 – Letaba to Satara and The S100.

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22 November 2017 – Birthday Surprises

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21 November 2017 – Birds and Dogs

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20 November 2017 Letaba to Olifants

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