5

Kruger National Park – Day 18

27 November – Lower Sabie

Once again the mercury dropped and we we back in jeans and fleeces all day today.  We took a drive to Crocodile Bridge Camp where we bought pies and coffee for breakfast as they do not have breakfast facilities.  These are the highlights of what we saw there and back,

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A pair of wattled starlings in a tree

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Woodland’s Kingfisher

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Brown-hooded Kingfisher

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It is the season for baby animals in The Park – Here a young impala is trying to get him mother to stand up so he can have a drink!

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Yellow-billed Kite

When we got back to Lower Sabie we went to restaurant where there is a deck overlooking the Sabie River.   We took a walk along the boardwalk and this is what we saw.

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Red-billed oxpecker cleaning ears

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Red-backed mannikin

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Swee Waxbill

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White-browed Robin

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In the afternoon we went for a drive along the S122

These are the highlights

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This rather large crocodile seen as we crossed the bridge

 

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Male red-crested korhaan

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Female red-crested Korhaan

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Baby red-crested korhaan

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Scrub Hare

We saw lions on two occasions but they were just lying around!

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We had a bit of a scare with elephants a few times.  I think they have a sense of humour and tease the tourists.  Sometimes you come upon them all of a sudden and they raise their trunks and trumpet at you giving you an awful fright.  Today as we drove toward home we noticed a car ahead – a young couple we’d chatted to earlier – but now they were rapidly reversing toward us – because an elephant was coming down the road and they were afraid to upset him by driving past.  We decided to reverse too and then the other car came along side us.  The ellie was some distance away and both cars had a chance to turn around.  The Earl decided not to move away but said, If he comes too close I’ll be able to race off but I think he’ll move into the bush.  Of course he was right.   As soon as Ellie saw this can of tourists wasn’t getting out of his way he veered off into the bush.

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To end our drive we stopped at Sunset Dam and watched a pair of hippos have a confrontation.

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Another exciting day in Africa ended with a lovely braai.

 

 

 

 

 

2

Kruger National Park – Day 17

26 November 2017 – Satara to Lower Sabie

After the rain during the night, we thought we might have a wet pack-up this morning but although it was still overcast and cool the rain held off.  And by the afternoon the temperature rose to 35 degrees C.

We packed up, hitched the caravan, helped P&T with their tent and were on the H1-3 by 6:40 am.   P&T did some loops but we like to stick to the tar roads when we’re towing. The plan was to meet them at Tshokwane for breakfast.

Usually the tar roads are a little boring regarding sightings but today we were lucky.

At Punda Maria we’d seen the crested guineafowl which are not as common as the helmeted guineafowl and today the first one for the trip turned up.

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Elephants crossed in front of us and showed us their bums.

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I have been looking  for the weird and wonderful knob-billed duck and today he turned up in an unexpected place

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Knob-billed duck perched on top of a dead tree

Then we came upon a road block of cars and caravans

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A mating pair of lions

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Just having a break

We managed to get through the crush of cars and continued until the next road block!

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We made it to this spot just in time as the leopard was on the move and soon disappeared into the bush.  This was just 1km from the picnic site.

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Tshokwane Picnic Site

The Tshokwane picnic site serves a delicious Early Bird breakfast of egg, bacon and tomato with toast for only R25.   Coffee, of course, is extra but it is the best coffee in the park!   Pat and Tony caught up to us just as we put our order in and they ordered the same.   Should you ever find yourselves in KNP and at this picnic site, be aware that there is a huge problem with monkeys and baboons.  Guard your food!

On the remainder of the trip we continued to have some lovely sightings.

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A Zebra Crossing

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European Roller

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Elephants decorating the hillside

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Elephants scaring The Earl silly

We arrived at camp at around 11 am and got set up and then had a rest.  Pat and Tony arrived at 2 after taking the scenic route.

We all went out together again for short drive at 4 pm.  The birding was good first on the bridge overlooking the Sabie River.

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Giant Kingfisher

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Mommy Egyptian Goose with goslings

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Opened-bill Storks

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Catching something tasty

Then we went to the famous Sunset Dam.  We saw some special birds but with the sun setting photography was difficult.

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I managed a good shot of the white crowned lapwing

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Sunset Dam

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Pied Kingfisher admiring the sunset

It was a perfect evening our sweet husbands did a splendid braai for supper

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Thanks Guys

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Kruger National Park – Day 16 – Satara

25 November 2017 – An Awesome Day

After yesterday’s heat we woke to rain this morning – very welcome as The Park is dry and they need their rains.  It was also quite cold but nothing dampens ones spirits when in The Park.  A Bad Day in Kruger is still better than a Good Day at home.

By 6:35 we were exploring the H7.   As usual we stopped for every interesting bird.  We saw common waxbill flitting about and while we were enjoying them we heard the familiar clicks and then kyip, kyip kyip – the call of the Red-Crested Korhaan.  Then we saw him strutting across the road.   He then flew up and tumbled down free-fall style.  What an awesome bird.  We expected he was showing off for a female but she was clearly not interested as she remained hidden.

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Next to pop up unexpectedly was this chap.

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We saw the usual suspects too, elephant, zebra, kudu etc  before turning onto the S39.  This drive was good too and we found a tawny eagle and some vultures.   As we trundled along we saw two cars alongside of each other up ahead.  “Either they’re friends having a chat about their next route or the one is telling the other what he has seen.  I bet it’s a leopard,” said I.
As we approached, the one pulled away and parked in front. The other indicated that we should take his place.  ” If you look carefully – you will see a leopard,” he told us. We looked but couldn’t see anything so went ahead a little way and watched some birds.  The second car left but the first remained.  He must still have it we thought so we reversed to take another look.  Oh Wow.  There he was – quite a big male but still well hidden under the tree.

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Oh those wild eyes

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J need my rest, you know

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Here’s looking at you, kid!

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How long are you planning on staying ?

Reluctantly we left the scene to let the next car have a chance and soon reached Timbavati Picnic site where we hired a skottel and cooked breakfast.  It was raining a bit but we were quite dry under the thatch shelters.

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Our return trip produced more hyena and lovely birds but it was raining so photography was a bit difficult.  Back at camp we had a rest. At 3:30 I went to see if Pat and Tony were awake – they weren’t so I told The Earl that we should skip an afternoon drive.  But when they woke at 4 they were still keen to go out  and so at 4:30 we hit the S100.  I had a strange feeling that something exciting would turn up and Pat voiced the same thought.

Sure enough we got a lovely surprise. We found the occupants of two vehicles staring into the distance.   We could just see the flick of a tail and a twitch of an ear.   Another car approached and asked what there was.  We told her not much and then one of the lionesses got up and moved!  We then all go lovely views of her and the other one until they disappeared in the undergrowth again.  We thought we might find them on our return route but they were nowhere around.

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It was certainly worth going for that short drive to find our lions!

You would think camp cooking would be problematic when the weather is cold and wet.  But we were lucky.  The rain held off and we were quite content to sit under our canopy and enjoy a fabulous meal cooked once again by our Bush Master Chef.  It was a most delicious chicken and vegetable dish cooked on the Snappy Chef. (Induction Stove)

The resident hyenas patrolled past the fence quite frequently.  One actually stopped and stared at us as if to say – Please share your meal with me!  But of course we said – No way – go and hunt your own food!

It rained in the night and we expected a wet pack up the next morning!

 

0

Kruger National Park – Day 15 – Satara

24 November – Birds and Hyenas

There are no words to describe the thrill one has when one is woken in the night or early in the morning by the sounds of the bushveld.   We have heard the shrill laugh of the hyena the howl of the jackals and the roar of lions on several occasions since being in The Park.  This morning the hyenas were particularly vocal and urged me out of bed before 5 am. Pat had heard them and the lions too so was also up a the same rude hour.

We were meant to leave be out the gate by 6 am but it was a little after that before we hit the H1-3

First up was a zebra crossing and then a number of lovely bird sightings.

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African Harrier Hawk – getting his adult plumage

Soon we turned onto the H6

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A Swainson’s Spurfowl in full voice

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Purple Roller

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Isn’t the baby impala too cute

The H6 is famous for hyena sightings and we were not disappointed

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These two were on a mission

They were not the only two we saw – there were many lying fast asleep.  Clearly they’d had a hard night!

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These two opened weary eyes to check us out

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We also met up with wildebeest

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A handsome ostrich

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And this magnificent Martial Eagle

By 7:35 we’d turned onto the S37 where a herd of Impala scared The Earl silly by leaping in front of the car without warning.  Luckily we were going slowly as one must in a game reserve.

At 8:30 we got out at Sweni Hide and had a good time observing the activity there.

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A water buck and herd of impala came down to drink

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This yellow-billed stork sat on its haunches

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Then she lay right down.

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Perhaps standing on one leg gets a bit exhausting

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The grey heron walked post cranky crocodile without a care in the world

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And went to chat to the storks

 

Next we went to Sweni Picnic site which has a hide overlooking the river but there was not much to see.  However, we got a lovely puffback in the picnic area.

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Not easy to get this very vocal bird as he hides in the foliage.  Here he’s nicely puffed up.

We then followed the S41.  The birding was good

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We watched a bateleur catch and eat a mouse

Near the river we observed thousands of quelea swarming and hanging in the trees.  Pat suggested a good collective noun for them – A cloud of quelea.

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There were “Clouds” of Quelea everywhere

We then joined the S100 and had some good sightings along that route.

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Trumpeter Hornbill

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Great to get the pale form Wahburg Eagle

When he flew to another tree we saw this barn owl with its wings hanging down over the branch – very odd.

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Barn Owl acting strangely

We also enjoyed the giraffe and zebra

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We had planned to come back to camp for breakfast but only made it there by midday so instead went to The Rustic Kitchen for lunch.  Pat and I enjoyed a chicken salad and the men had chicken may toasties.

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We went out again at 4 pm and did the S100.

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This male waterbuck was very relaxed

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The Sabota Lark got some dinner

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A puffed up purple roller

It was cool this morning but  the temperature rose to 35 in the afternoon.  Pat and Tony cooked chicken kebabs, butternut and sweet potato on the braai which we served with a Greek Salad.

Ánother ‘lousy’ day in Africa!

 

 

 

 

 

0

Kruger National Park – Day 14 – Satara

23 November 2017 – Letaba to Satara and The S100.

After yesterday’s 40 degree C heat we woke to cooler conditions today.  In fact the mercury dropped by 20 degrees!

We were packed up and ready to roll by 7:00 o’clock.  Pat and Tony were to follow after going to reception to find out about getting Pat to a doctor.

The first excitement walked toward us on the tar road.   Mom, Dad and Little One

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Come on Mom and Dad – keep up!

Then they veered off the road and passed by the car.  We got a shot of Mom – or Dad – difficult to tell the sexes apart.

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She seems to be smiling about something.

When we arrived at Satara we got a call from Tony.  They were on their way and would set up camp and then head to Skukuza to see the camp doctor.

We set up next to the fence at the North-west side of camp.  There were quite a few interesting birds hanging around and posing for their portraits.

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Red-billed Buffalo-weaver

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Burchell’s Starling

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Grey-headed Sparrow

When Pat and Tony  arrived we helped them set up and then went to have breakfast at the restaurant.  They managed to get an appointment for 2 o’clock and set off for Skukuza at midday.

Earl and I had a rest and then at 3 pm set off to do a stretch of the S100, turning around and retracing our route so as to be back in camp in time.  The drive there produced some common residents.

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My favourite creatures

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Zebs had a dust bath

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A stripe of zebra

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Delighted to have this red-faced mousebird sit still for a second

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This non-breeding shaft-tailed whydah had us guessing for a while

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Red-billed quelea

We hoped to see a lot more as the S100 is famous for seeing both lion and leopard – but not luck there.  However, the birding was good.

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A lovely surprise – Trumpeter Hornbill

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Male Red-backed shrike

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Bateleur Female

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Bateleur Male

Seeing the trumpeter hornbill was special for me and I counted that as the highlight of the day.  I was in a bit of a complacent dream when suddenly I saw it, just a short distance away, so well camouflaged in the dry grass.  “There’s a cheetah!” I called out to The Earl.  “Where?” he said.  “There,” I pointed.  “Where’s there!”  he was frustrated.

“Stop!” I yelled.  “He’s going to come out in front of the car.”  And then he saw it too.

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What a brilliant surprise
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We had him all to ourselves

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The beautiful boy!

He crossed the road and then moved off into the distance.  We watched until he disappeared over the ridge.  A car approached – just a minute too late.  We were the only ones to have seen him!

Pat and Tony were back from the Skukuza by 6:15.   Pat’s wrist is badly sprained and the doctor strapped it into a brace.   She is comfortable but may have to have x-rays if the swelling doesn’t go down.

As it was so cool we decided that a stew would be best for dinner tonight. Once again our Master Chef of the Bushveld put our snappy chef and smartspace pots to excellent use and we dined in style once again.

4

Kruger National Park – Day 13

22 November 2017 – Birthday Surprises

I am celebrating my birthday in my most favourite place in the world.  Who could ask for a better gift than that!  And all my birthday wishes came true today.  The creatures of the Kruger National Park popped up to say Hi.

I had no plans to celebrate in any way – just being here was enough for me.  But my darling husband arranged for us to make a breakfast stop at Mopani Rest Camp because they have such a lovely restaurant overlooking the Luluvu River.  Letaba’s restaurant is closed and there is only The Rustic Kitchen to replace it.   This meant quite a long drive there but we had some lovely sightings and every time something interesting happened, Pat said, “Happy Birthday, Helen!”

And it did seem as if though some of the animals knew it was my special day.  A giraffe crossed the road, stopped and looked right at me ane I believe sent me a birthay greeting.

 

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And so did this buffalo!

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Who’s the birthday girl then?

This warthog provided some amusing entertainment

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Mud, glorious mud

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I need a good scratch

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Oh Hi, didn’t see you there – Happy Birthday

Birding is our passion and today we saw some lovely specials

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Marsh Sandpiper

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White-Crested Helmet-Shrike

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Red-billed Ox-peckers on a buffalo’s back

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Namaqua Dove

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Kori Bustard

My birthday breakfast was fantastic.  What a view we had and what lovely birds we saw from the deck.

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The deck at the Mopani Restaurant

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A really scrumptious breakfast

The temperature got up to 40 degrees C today but we were relatively cool in our airconditioned vehicle.  However, opening the windows to take photographs let in the hot air and by the time we got back to Letaba we were all ready for a swim.

In the pool I chatted to an older lady who was such an inspiration.  She and her hubby were still travelling and having lovley holidays together.   Then she went out and the next thing I knew she’d slipped and fallen. I leapt out of the pool to see how she was.  How amazing was her attitude. “I’m fine,”  she said, “It’s just my dignity that’s damaged!”  There were two young men immediately on the scene and her husband said, “Don’t pull her up by her arms.”  He put a towel under her arms and then said,  “Pull her up using the towel.”  It worked perfectly and she was absolutely fine.

I went in for a little longer and then we all got out and would you believe – Pat slipped and landed flat on her back hitting her hand hard as she fell.  Oh horror!   We used the towel trick to get her up too.   Unfortunately her hand was really hurt.  Back at camp we iced it and I put an ice-pack in the freezer that she could use in the night.   Earl strapped her up as best he could and she insisted that she would be fine.  (I am writing this two days later so I can report that she went to Skukuza the next day to consult a doctor and is now in a brace and on medication for the pain.   If the swelling does not go down she will have to have x-rays but right now she is comfortable.)

Without my noticing, The Earl slipped into the park shop at Mopani and bought a bottle of champagne which he chilled in the car fridge.  So when we were about to pour our sundowners out came the champers to celebrate my 65th birthday!

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Cheers!   ( I’m sure my sister approves)

The Earl refused to let anybody help with the preparation of my celebratory meal tonight and presented us with a Master Chef quality chicken dish.  It was to die for.

 

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Enjoying my dinner in the bush

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Pat with injured wrist on ice managed with one hand

Another African day under the belt!

 

 

2

Kruger National Park – Day 12 – Letaba

21 November 2017 – Birds and Dogs

“Stop!   A Bird of Prey!”  yelled one of us in the car.   “What bird is that?!”

“An immature Bateleur,” I said confidently.  “No way,” came the reply.  “Nothing like a bateleur.”
“Look carefully,” I instructed in my school teacher voice. “The shape of the head, the crest, the short tail, the general shape of the bird.   It’s a bateleur. My granddaughter could have told you that when she was 10!”

Much searching through the field guide ensued until finally they concurred.  Of course, it is indeed a Bateluer!

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The adult is more striking – photos of one in a later blog I hope

The next exciting call out was for the behaviour of a bird rather than the often seen bird itself.  Hornbills make their nests in the holes in the trunk of trees. When it is done the mother hornbill enters the nest, lays her eggs and sheds her feather and the father closes up the hole and only lets her out once the chicks are hatched.   She is completely reliant on him for food after that.  Today we saw a pair who we believe were preparing a nest. They usually inspect a site together and then begin to line it.

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Inspecting the nest

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Harry – I think this hole will do

One of the birds whose call sounds like an engine running is the Crested Barbet.  You hear it before you see it.

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Finally he posed for a portrait

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Not as pretty as the lilac breasted roller – The European Roller is still a stunning bird

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We were lucky to get this red-breasted swallow sitting still for a minute

We went out fairly late for our afternoon drive and enjoyed seeing some of the usual elephant, buffalo and buck.   We were cruising along the tar road to get back to camp in time when we saw a few stationary cars ahead – always a sign that something exciting has been spotted.  And sure enough there they were!  The third sighting of these creature for The Earl and me but P&T had not had the privilege yet.

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Oh dear they’re so well hidden in the undergrowth – and sleepy too!

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Oh good – one has his head up

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Omigosh one is getting up!

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He marked his territory right next to our car

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Who are you guys anyway!

The leader scurried about, marking his territory and doing some ablutions and then the whole pack got up and scurried through the bush.

No better way to end your day than with a great sighing of African Wild Dog!

 

 

1

Kruger National Park – Day 11

20 November 2017 Letaba to Olifants

Once again it was  very hot  in the Kruger National Park today.  We are caravanning/tenting at Letaba Camp and are so grateful for the shady trees.   It is not difficult to get up at 5 in the morning here.  Natures alarm rouses you with the cheerful dawn chorus of the birds.

By 6:15 we left to drive along the Letaba River to Olifants Camp where we had breakfast.    When The Earl and I used to stay in the chalets, Olifant’s was our favourite camp.  They don’t have camping facilities so we’re not staying there this time round.

We had a stunning time there and back, as the birding was fantastic.  What fun we had watching their antics and debating what species we were observing.  Although we’re not the type of birders that chase after rare birds to get our tick list up, we do keep holiday lists and try to see as many species as The Kruger will show us.  Today we did pretty well.

Scenes like these never fail to give one a thrill.

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Along the way there are many little ‘omrits’ or loops that take you closer to the river so you can get a better view.  There you can stop and enjoy the birds.  At our first omrit we heard the Diederick Cuckoo.  He tends to hide among the foliage of the trees so when he posed in the open for us, we were thrilled.

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Diederick’s Cuckoo

We also got this beautiful kingfisher

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Brown-hooded Kingfisher

The small creatures of the bushveld are just as exciting as the larger predators.  Seeing two scrub hares was a real highlight as they’re shy and not often seen.

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Scrub Hare

In the shallows of the river there was a great deal of activity.

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Great Egret

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Yellow-billed stork and Egyptian Goose were wondering what all the fuss was about

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What a handsome fellow is the Saddle-billed Stork

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As we left our omrit to get back onto the road again we got an enormous scare when we found this chap blocking the road.  Luckily there was another track that bypassed him.

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The leaves are yummy and I’m not moving til I’m done,

You’d be surprised how hungry intense birding can making you.  Our many stops to see the feathered friends delayed our breakfast time and we were starving by the time we reached Olifants.  The Rustic Kitchen is set up there too. It is at the lookout point which is just the most stunning venue.   Hopefully, they will be there for a very long time!

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view from The Rustic Kitchen

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There was a treeful of Marico Sunbirds just outside the entrance to the old restaurant.

Our return trip was even more enjoyable than our trip there.  We went to the low-level bridge across the Olifant’s River and didn’t want to leave as there was so much activity to watch.   The highlight was a green-backed heron that kept hiding behind the rocks but then eventually emerged and showed us how to catch your own breakfast.

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Wood Sandpiper

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Reed Comorant

 

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He caught a fish

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Finally the green-backed heron gave us a show

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The Grey Heron doesn’t mind showing himself to the world

We were very happy with our mornings sightings and returned to camp for or midday rest.  We went out again for a short drive to Matambeni hide and were back by 6:15  These were the best photographs I could get.

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Terrapins sunning themselves on a lovely flat rock

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There were many crocodiles and we watched them swimming slyly through the water before some decided to slither up onto dry ground. 

Pat and Tony were the designated cooks tonight and they made us a delicious beef stir-fry on their skottel.  Who would believe you could eat so well in the middle of the African Bushveld.

 

 

 

 

1

Kruger National Park – Day 10

19 November 2017 – Shingwedzi to Letaba

By 6:30 we were packed and ready to leave.  Letaba is 108km from Shingwedzi so we planned to take a break at Mopani and have breakfast at the restaurant.

Once again with caravan in tow we stuck to the tar road and only stopped a few times to take photos of interesting creatures.

The much maligned hyena is considered to be a cowardly and nasty character and features as the ‘baddy’ in many folklore and children’s stories.  In fact these creatures are  not just scavengers but efficient and powerful predators.   Spotted hyenas live in structured groups.  A group of hyenas is called a clan of hyenas.   Did you know that the females rank higher than the males and an alpha female leads the clan. They whole clan helps to raise the young.   When you get to know them you just can’t help loving them and that’s why we were thrilled to find three lying on the side of the road this morning.

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It was a tough night, please let me sleep

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Oooh I’m so comfortable here

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What’s going on – why did you wake me!

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Alright I’ll smile for the photo

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Now I’m going to find a quieter, shadier spot to sleep!

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What do you mean, I must come with you?

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Oh, alright then, I’m coming!

We left the sleepy things in peace and moved on toward Mopani but not before stopping for to get a photograph of the most magnificent eagle in The Park.

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The proud Martial Eagle

We’ve become accustomed to road blocks too and patiently waited for these wild cows cross over.

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This is our road and we’ll take our time if we want to.

The view of the river below the restaurant was as stunning as always but today we saw an osprey in a tree – too distant for a photo but nevertheless great to see.  These are some of the other birds we managed to photograph

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White-faced ducks

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African Jacana

These gorgeous girls stared at us before we arrived at Letaba.

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Female Waterbuck

It was really hot when we arrived in Letaba.  We drove around the shady camp looking for a good spot to set up, met another Gecko owner from Somerset West, chatted to them and then while we were filling our water tanks,  someone whom I recognised walked by and made a jokey comment about caravanning.  He and his wife were tenting nearby.  After chatting a while we discovered that we’d stayed a their B&B a few years ago.  Hugh had organised a bird guide for us. It was an awesome trip.   Today he showed us where to find the Scops Owls.

We found a suitable campsite and unhitched but we did not set up until a little later when it was cooler.  And do you know what?   The Earl put up the canopy almost single handedly.  All I had to do was help with one pole and the ground sheet.  He now has a system that really works for him.  And I managed to push up the roof all by myself!

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Entrance to Letaba Rest Camp

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Scops Owl

As we are staying here for four nights we decided not to go on a game drive this afternoon.   Instead we took some down time to just chill in camp.

Later in the afternoon I saw a fellow camper pointing his camera into a tree so I asked what he was photographing.  This is what he pointed out to me.

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A Bushbaby!

 

The temperature got up to over 35 today and the evening was still hot.  We kept the lights off as much as possible so that the insects didn’t bother us and The Earl cooked us a delicious chicken curry and thus ended another perfect day in Africa.

5

Kruger National Park – Day 9

18 November 2017 – Shingwedzi

This morning while we waited for Pat and Tony to finish packing up their tent, and before we said farewell to Punda Maria, Earl and I  paid one last visit to the hide.  This is the only camp in The Park that has a hide and a lit waterhole and it is frequently visited by many animals.  Elephants were already there and we watched them finish their ablutions and take on some refreshing liquid before they lumbered off into the bush.  It was quiet for a few minutes and then we heard loud and excited trumpeting and another herd came racing down to the water.  It was as if the little ones were calling – Mommy, I can’t wait to get into the water, please can we run ahead.

 

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It was awesome and we would have lingered longer but it was time to head to Shingwedzi.  Earl quickly helped with the tent packing up and then we set off separately.   The only disadvantage of towing a caravan is that you can’t stop suddenly, nor do all the reversing and manoeuvring at a sighting as you would like to. Also there is always the fear that you’ll be confronted by an oncoming elephant!   So we took the direct tar road and only stopped when we could.   We did manage to have some lovely sightings but once we got to Shingwedzi, we set up quickly, had a bit of a rest and then went to the restaurant for lunch.  Pat and Tony met us there. They had taken the river road and had lingered over bird and animal sightings.

All the usual patron of the Kruger Restaurant were about – elephant, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest and zebra so when we saw something a little out of the ordinary it peaked our interest.  This shy creature was kind enough to stop to have his portrait taken.

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Sharpes Grysbok

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Another large herd of buffalo

We checked in at Shingwedzi at around 10:30 and quickly found a lovely site next to the fence and close to the ablution block.  We had some feathered hosts welcome us.  The red-billed woodhoopoes were quite vocal but seemed in a hurry to be somewhere else and didn’t stop to chat.  Mrs Burchell, hower, asked if had any crumbs for her.  No – sorry we don’t eat bread.

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Burchell’s starling 

The arrow-marked babblers are always busy but blurted out their greetings as they flew from tree to tree.

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Arrow-marked babbler 

After lunch P&T went to set up camp at Shingwedzi  while The Earl and I did the river route which was very productive.   The Mopani Diner was open and the patrons were helping themselves to their offerings.

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Baboon feeding on Mopani leaves

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I am safe here with my mommy

It was very hot and most of the birds were napping in the cool of the foliage. It was later in the afternoon when we started to spot a few as they emerged from hiding.   This lovely raptor was hoping there would be a slithering reptile on the menu.

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Brown Snake-eagle

Sometimes you have to take the kids out to eat too.  Mom is trying to teach this youngster that he must eat by himself now.IMG_5414

The next feathered diner we met is a new one for us.

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White-throated Robin-chat

At the same cafe, skulking in the foliage we found an old friend.

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Long-billed Crombec

Some of the residents prefer to eat ‘seafood’  In this case, actually, it’s river-food. There were Egyptian Geese, Grey Herons, three-banded plovers and other waterbirds checking out the menu but our favourite was this lovely chap.

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Yellow-billed Stork

I have hundreds of giraffe photographs as I just love these stunning creatures.  I couldn’t resist taking more today.

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We are only at Shingwedzi for one night.  We weren’t very hungry after our lunch at the restaurant so it was well after sunset when we braaied.    A honey-badger entered the campsite and tried to steal from the humans and a hyena passed by on the other side of the fence.  Hopefully he never finds his way inside.

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Sunset at Shingwedzi

Tomorrow we head to Letaba for four nights.

 

 

 

 

 

0

Kruger National Park – Day 8

17 November 2017

Giraffe are the most ramp models of the bushveld.  They are so graceful with their super-long necks and leggy lope.   We had an almost spiritual encounter with a beautiful journey of them early this morning.  There they were just standing quietly in the middle of the road and the did not move for ages.  They just stared at us and we at them.   It was awesome.

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The Lilac Breasted Roller is another beauty of the bushveld.  Who can resist taking a million photographs of this stunning bird.

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And below is his close cousin – the purple roller

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The yellow-billed oxpecker enjoys grooming his buffalo clients but sometimes he is in need of some pampering himself.

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Eeww – Must we clean this wound?

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I just need some Me Time – Please!

The male and female red-backed shrike are quite different in appearance – but both are rather pretty

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Male Red-backed shrike

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Female red-backed shrike

Our route this morning did not come near to a picnic site so we decided to pack a finger breakfast, stop at a water-hole and have our morning meal in the car.   It’s difficult to concentrate on eating with creatures keep grabbing your attention while you’re trying to pour the coffee!

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We heard the piping call of the water thick-knees but finding them was another story – they camouflage so well

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This marsh sandpiper is just as good at disguises

As we left we observed a large herd of buffalo heading to the waterhole and mud holes behind it.  They seemed to want the mud more than the water.

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We spent some time watching them until they moved off.  They needed to get over the road and certainly took their time about it.  Talk about a road block!

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Please be patient – Waiting time can be anything from 10 minutes to one hour!

Once you are through the Stop/Go don’t become complacent – something else might stop you in your tracks before your journey’s done.

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Best you give this guy a wide berth

As usual we had a midday break and planned to go out at 3:30.  But The Earl woke early from his nap and insisted we get going earlier.  He got no argument from the rest of us.

Just 3km from the camp is a loop that takes you to a waterhole that you can see from the main track.  Something attracted The Earl’s attention and we turned down to investigate.  We found some interesting waterbirds including a hamerkop.

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It was great to find a hamerkop in this small waterhole

A buffalo emerged from the bush but seemed reluctant to come down to drink.  He just stood and stared at the pond.

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And then Patricia Mary called out excitedly – A leopard – I see a leopard slinking through the bush. He was gone and then we all spotted him briefly before he disappeared again. Is that why the buffalo was nervous?  Maybe – but a leopard is unlikely to tackle such a big animal.

We were the only car there and we held our breath hoping the leopard would appear again and he did!

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He flopped down and stared at us

We were enthralled watching the leopard lick his paws and wash his face. He had not a care in the world and was content to give us a lovely show.

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Then he got up and climbed to the top of an anthill where he continued to stare at us for quite some time.

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We were alone with him for 20 minutes before another car appeared.  They were birders and stopped their car a short way from us in a position from which they could not see the leopard.  The Earl and I waved our arms and tried to attract their attention to no avail – then The Earl flashed his lights and indicated that they should come closer.   They did and were thrilled that we shared our find.

We were euphoric for the rest of the afternoon.  Nothing could beat our leopard sighting but we did enjoy our other creatures too.

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The cutest pair of tree squirrels tail to tail on an anthill

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Beautiful male kudu

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Pushme Pullyou!

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A pair of common duiker

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Very pretty

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Mom and baby zebra

It was another perfect evening.  We had a braai and then went to the waterhole where we had fun watching elephants swimming and drinking – too dark for piccies but it was awesome.

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4

Kruger National Park – Day 5

14 November 2017 – A Wild Day In More Ways Than One

Today we were up at  3:00 am!   Yes – at the last minute yesterday we booked to go on a birding safari and the starting time was 4 in the morning!  Crazy – as it only starts getting light at 4:30 and travelling in an open vehicle can be chilly in the early morning.  But we’d heard that these bird safaris are good so we bit the bullet, went to bed early last night and were up and raring to go before the first peep from any self-respecting sparrow!

We met a French couple at reception and thought we might be on the same trip.  But our guide appeared, took our indemnity forms and explained that The Earl and I would be coming with him while the others would join another couple on a game safari.  The difference, he said, was the birding trip would concentrate on looking, obviously, for birds.  So we would go slowly and stop and look into trees etc whereas the game drivers would go faster and search for game!   However, if we happened to see animals he would certainly stop to look at them.

How lucky were Earl and I to have this guide to ourselves.   My only regret was that I didn’t wear a beany or wrap a scarf around my head – My body was warm but my head was freezing for the first hour of the trip!   We did not see much before the sun rose but the spot light did pick up fiery-necked and square tailed nightjars.   Willie, our guide, also pointed out some other birds but I couldn’t make them out at all!.  But then Dawn spread her golden light across the sky, the spotlights were switched off and we started to see some things.    Just after dawn  we spotted a hyena and Willie alerted the game tour guide. Funny how birders tend to see more than just birds!  Suddenly things started to hot up. Willy was determined to show us the most exciting birds and as he is a Sanparks  jeep jockey he is allowed off the beaten paths  which are  closed to the common man! He raced at speed over uneven terrain and came to screeching halts at the very edge of sheer cliffs!  This is not how it’s supposed to be – didn’t he say we’d be going slowly? But see things we did!  While stopped (quietly) looking at a variety of water birds in the river  we suddenly saw a lion dart into sight.  Next thing there were 11 of them!   Once again Willie alerted his friend but I don’t think they managed to see the lions as they disappeared into the bush very quickly.  We got excellent views but the light was bad and this photo taken by The Earl is the best we managed.

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Soon after the lions we saw the wild dog researchers with an aerial and Willy stopped to ask if they’d found the dogs.  They were expecting them to appear in the river bed a little later.  We continued our birding and when we returned that way we were alerted by another car that the dogs had arrived and were on a kill.  The monitors were on the scene when it happened.   What a thrill to see a pack of 19 enjoying their feast.

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This one was on guard

We were thrilled with the birds and animals we saw this morning even though we feared for the lives of the birds on the roadside as Willy sped along the road to find the Verreaux’s Eagle Owl – we dipped on it but found other exciting stuff like the Dickinson’s  Kestrel which was really special.  It was high in the top of a tree some distance away but I still managed to get an identifiable shot of it.

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Another highlight was seeing Ground Hornbills.  Usually we spot them walking purposefully through the bush but today they were in a tree. We saw first one and then his mate came along, he flew away and she settled in his spot.  Then Willy said – they’re building a nest.  A third hornbill was in a tree opposite with a mouth full of leaves.  They are hold nesters and the first bird had flown to the hole and we watched him enter it.  The bird with a bill full of leaves just sat above perfectly still hardly moving.  We have no idea what that was all about but couldn’t  linger to find out.

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Willy, our wonderful wild guide 🙂

We got back to camp at around 8 and The Earl once again whipped up a stunning breakfast of bacon and eggs.

Just after nine we set off on another game drive taking the River Drive S 135.  What a pretty route and what lovely sightings we had.

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Female Nyala and fawn

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Male Nyala

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Goliath Heron

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Hippos parked off

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The highlight though was seeing elephants swimming in the river.   They were having so much fun.   They also blocked the road as they came out and we  were warned by one not to come too close!    Funny how my anxious husband thinks that amusing!

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We got back to camp feeling rather peckish so popped into the restaurant for a chicken wrap each.   It was NOT The Bug and Mean – you know what I mean – The Mug and Bean.  It was the same company that are running The Rustic Kitchen at Letaba and wow did we enjoy our lunch.   So much so we did not even hungry at supper time so didn’t bother to braai.