I got up at 5 a.m., showered and had everything ready to be packed into the car by 6 o’clock. I woke Earl and then went across to the house to make sure Laurie was up too.   Allan was and made us all a cup of tea.  At 6:45 we said our goodbyes and were on the road to Durban.  It had rained on and off all through the night and now it was cold and overcast.   The boys were still fast asleep in the tent when we left.

We arrived in Durban at half past nine, had breakfast at the Woolworths restaurant, which took longer than we expected.  We then rushed to buy a few things at Checkers, went to the vodocom shop to buy airtime for my internet bundle and a new hands free, voice activated gadget for Earl and by the time this was done it was too late to shop at Woolworths.  We raced to the airport and were just in time to meet Heather and Hazel.   We then said our goodbyes to Laurie and left her to wait for her flight to Cape Town, which was due to leave at 2:30.  We were just getting into the car when she called to tell us her flight was delayed by three hours so she had to spend the whole day at the airport!  Poor kid – but she found a hotspot so could at least go online and chat to friends.

We were grateful for the cool overcast weather and the temperature only got up to 24.   We arrived at Hluluwe at 3 and drove around till half past six.  It was lovely seeing different birdlife and the highlights were little bee-eaters and a yellow-billed kite sitting in a tree.   We also enjoyed watching the red-collared widow birds and their rather pretty, stripy-faced wives.   There were also a number of cisticolas with which we were not familiar and still need to verify identities.

Hluluwe is the place to see rhino and we saw them several times.  

 

It was also great to see a large herd of buffalo, a few wildebeest, zebra and impala.  The lambs were particularly cute and we observed ox-peckers taking tufts of fur out of the poor creatures –obviously for nesting material.  The impala let it be known that too much of that would not be tolerated!

After a long day of travelling, we decided to eat at the restaurant this evening.  We were pleasantly surprised at an excellent buffet providing a variety of starters and main courses and an array of delicious deserts.  We all had cauliflower soup to start and then among other things we ate dolrado, calamari rings, rollmps, smoked mackerel,  pickled fish, spring rolls, prawns, mussels, turkey, pork chops and a variety of salads and vegetables.   For dessert, I had fruit salad and some dreadful ice cream that tasted like bubble gum.  But that was the only yucky part of the meal!

We were entertained by the kitchen staff!

Hazel, Heather and Earl enjoying dinner and entertainment.

We were back in our comfortable chalet by 9 and went straight to bed.

Last night we told Heather and Hazel to sleep in till 6:30 but Hazel set her alarm for quarter to by mistake.  Earl and I were awake at quarter past 5 and were showered and ready by 5:30.  We intended going for a walk. However, when we heard the others, decided to make breakfast and head off early.  Heather was really put out when she found that she could have slept half an hour longer!

It was a beautiful day so we sat outdoors and enjoyed our “Early” breakfast and watched a twin-spot batis or two in the trees. We heard turruco and other birds but they did not make an appearance.  

We were packed and ready to go by half past 7, went to pay for last night’s dinner and then drove around Hluluwe before leaving via Memorial Gate.  

Interesting sightings were an African Harrier Hawk in a tree but at quite a distance, a barn swallow posed nicely for its portrait, Jacobin Cuckoos were also obliging.   We laughed when we saw a big fat warthog trundling down the road – all covered in mud!  

We stopped at a picnic site to go to the loo and were impressed with the excellent condition of all the facilities.   After watching a square-tailed drongo we headed for Memorial Gate and left the park just before 10 o’clock.

We loved the scenery on the way to Ndumo and felt we were really in Africa when we drove through the villages and saw how they sold their farm produce on the side of the road, had hair salons in make-shift shelters and traded on the pavements.  It was throbbing with life this morning as it is just after the Christmas weekend and back to business as usual.

We crossed the bridge of a beautiful dam and stopped in a byway to take photos.  We were immediately mobbed by young black boys selling crystal rocks.   We did not want them but they begged and begged so Earl gave one of them some money, which he quickly pocketed and refused to share with the others.  They begged Earl for more and they looked so desperate that I gave them a box of water biscuits.  Heather was horrified, as they are her favourites.   I found it a really upsetting experience.

Our final stretch to Ndumo was along a very corrugated gravel road.   The other road had been seriously pitted with potholes so altogether it was not a comfortable journey!   We finally arrived at the entrance gate of Ndumo at 12:30. Our first exciting bird was an European bee-eater and although it was during the heat of the day we spotted a few interesting birds including white helmutshrikes, paradise fly-catchers, blue waxbills, grey-headed sparrows and a violet-backed starling.

Blue Waxbill

Our bungalows are comfortable and air-conditioned but we have to use communal ablutions and kitchen.   We settled in at half past one and then rested for a few hours.  As I type we have no water in our bungalow but they are working on the problem.

After our rest, at 4 o’clock, we set out on a route that Earl thought might be productive.  It seems, though, that Ndumo does not have as much to show us as during our 2005 visit with Barbara and Andrew.   Some of the roads and hides are closed because of the drought.  We took a 4×4 track which was quite ambitious for our Caravelle.  We did see some interesting birds but not in great numbers.  Highlights were Crested Guinea fowl, Crested Francolin, Grey-headed bush-shrike and Crowned Eagle.  I spotted the latter in a tree after we’d decided not to complete the 4×4 trail and had turned around.

We also saw warthog, nyala, wildebeest, impala and just as dusk closed in around us an enormous rhino blocked our path.  

 

Barn Swallow

Water was still not functional in our bungalow so we did all food preparation in Heather and Hazel’s. Earl braaied chops and steak which we enjoyed with sweet potatoes and salad.   

It is exactly thirty years since I gave birth to my beautiful daughter, Laurie.  I phoned her yesterday to wish her well on the last day of being 29!   I did not think we’d get a signal here but Earl has roaming on his phone and is able to connect via Mozambique so we rang her again at 11 this morning.

This morning at 5:30 we went for a morning walk with Sonto, the same guide we had in 2004.   I was hugely impressed at how well Hazel kept up and managed the rough terrain and walking across a very rickety swing-bridge.    We dipped on a Pel’s Fishing Owl, the reason being that he is searching all along the river and not sticking to one place at present.   However, Sonto using his ability to imitate bird calls showed us yellow-bellied apalis, golden backed tinker-barbet, broad-billed roller, forest weavers, tawny-flanked prinia, blue-mantled fly-catcher and the highlight Narina Trogon.  Our fellow walkers were a keen bird-nerd family – mom, dad and two sons.   The boys were good at recognising birdcalls and spotting and they took some good photographs with their identical Pentax cameras.

After our walk we swam at the pool, took washing to the laundry, which the maids did at a cost of R15 and had our breakfast of toast and tea on Heather and Hazels deck.   We then rested for a few hours before venturing out again.

We all spent the morning doing our own thing including having a nap.  Earl was the first to wake and hassled us to get ready to go for a drive.  There was a breeze blowing and although the temperature was in the thirties it was no unbearably hot so in spite of Heather feeling it was crazy to go out in the middle of the day we persuade her that it would be okay. And thank goodness we did because we had a productive and enjoyable afternoon.

We drove to the gate and then along the fence to the tower that looks over the canopy. En route we stopped often to observe golden-breasted bunting, twin-spot batis and southern black tit.   We also had some interesting experiences with raptors and observed a pair of cuckoo hawks flying over head and then a steppe buzzard conflicting with them. At the same time there was a flock of European Bee-eaters flying around.

Golden Breasted Bunting

Soon after that we spotted a brown snake eagle in a tree.  While everybody was focussing on it I saw a bateleur swiftly fly through the trees but nobody else got the same glimpse as I did.

Once on the road next to the fence an obliging brown-hooded kingfisher posed beautifully for a photo-shoot. 

We parked the car and then climbed up the towere and spent a while looking over the canpy which was like a green carpet of leaves covering the reserve. We had panoramic views of the places we could make our way to later. We heard the purple crested turacco but he did not grace us with his presence at the top of a tree!

As we drove back Earl spotted a violet backed starling and while we watched him a pair of paradise fly-catchers and some woodhoepoes darted in and out among the trees.  We also saw forked and square-tailed drongos.

Driving on towards the turnoff to the Red Cliffs, a falcon flew straight in front of us then disappeared into the trees.  We are not sure what it was.

Hearing an interesting bird call, I asked Earl to stop and looked deep into the bush to see what I could find.  Nothing – but Hazel said, “Oh look down here.” And there right next to the car was a water dikkop and just a metre from him two crested francolin were having a sand bath.

We also found the rare crested guineafowl.

A crested guineafowl

Then we came to a place where the bush was not quite so dense and in the clearing a herd of giraffe appeared and it was surreal to have them so close to us.  There must have been about 15 altogether – moms dads and young.   These giraffe are almost golden brown in colour and very pretty.   I just love these truly African creatures. They are graceful, elegant and gentle creatures.  We felt truly privileged to have had such an close encounter with them.

It was quarter to five by the time we arrived at The Red Cliffs picnic site – but believe me we saw no cliffs that were red!   I found the loo – a long-drop, clean enough but not that pleasant except for the fact that it had an incredible view over the river!

We saw trumpeter hornbills flying over and one actually sat in a tree and allowed us a good view of it.  

It was getting late and we still wanted to go to the hide.   So we drove as quickly as possible stopping only to see the most interesting things which included a green spotted dove sitting in tree and allowing me to take a good photograph,

  Green-spotted Dove

 a pair of yellow-billed kites on a carcass – we think that had been put out for vultures.   We also observed a bird that at first made us think it was a brown snake eagle. But it did not have yellow eyes.  A couple who we’d seen at the cuckoo hawk sighting told us it was a dark from steppe buzzard – and on consulting our bird book we had to agree.

We would have liked to spend more time at the hide but it was getting dark and we needed to be back in camp before 7 o’clock.   We saw yellow weaver, masked weavers, a jacana, hippo, green-backed heron and some martins before we decided to leave.

We braaied again for supper and then packed up as much as possible as we are leaving at 6 tomorrow morning.

 

Earl and Allan went out on the dam again this afternoon at about 4 o’clock and returned at 7 o’clock.  The girls made a stunning dinner of roast pork and chicken with sweet potatoes and onions and a lovely Greek Salad followed by chocolate mouse pudding.

The guys were out on the lake at 5 o’clock.  I roused the boys from dreamland at 6 ‘clock and we were on our bikes by 6:15.  It was cooler this morning as there was some cloud cover but it warmed up as the day progressed!   The boys were more observant this morning and kept calling to tell me what game they saw as the sped ahead of me.   I found the hills and bumpiness of the road quite a challenge but refused to get off and push my bike.  The result was a pounding hear and severe shortness of breath but oh my downhill was my reward!  I was tempted to let out all the stops and career down at a thrilling speed but the thought of Priscilla in plaster in her hospital bed and the likelihood that I could so easily join her restored my common sense and I cruised at a more grandmotherly pace.  The boys, the perfect little gentlemen that they are, waited for me at appropriate points always asking kindly if I were okay and should they go more slowly. I bravely said I would be fine and they beat me home by a good 15 minutes, but I’m proud to say that I took 5 minutes off yesterday’s time!

Earl and I made a huge fruit salad for breakfast and we all sat on the deck to enjoy it.  The kids went off to the petting zoo and Jay raced to our lodge with what he thought was exciting news.  “The man at the animals said that because we’re such regular visitors I can have a pregnant guinea-pig free!    Can I Gran, please. Can I?”  I would have loved to be able to say yes – but how was he to get it home on SAA?   So I’ve half promised to get him one back in Cape Town. Oh dear!

A little later Earl and Allan took Simon and Joshua out on the boat.   They can only take two kids at a time.

The thunder storm hit at 1 o’clock so all fishing was ended for the day. It was pouring when Earl and I left for Joy Farm, where we had a massage with two of the best masseurs we have ever had.  I had Joy and Earl had Karen.   They were both excellent.  Joy got into all my ‘spots’ and I felt wonderful afterwards.

The rain had stopped by the end of the massage and we went home for an earl y braai and an early night.

Thursday 24 December 2009  

Our last morning at Sani Valley Lodge dawned overcast but warm.  Earl and Allan were on the water just after 5 o’clock and Shannon and Jay ran down to the boathouse just before 7 to get their turn on the boat.

I was up just after 5 o’clock, fiddled on the computer, checked emails and face book etc and was devastated to hear that my friend Cheryl’s brother and his wife were killed in a cycling accident on Tuesday.  They were riding their tandem bicycle in Mosselbay when  a truck hit them head on.   They died on the scene.  

I packed up as much as I could at our lodge then cycled to Rainbow and packed up my bits and pieces into the camping boxes.   The fishermen returned at 9 and Earl made breakfast then everybody helped to pack the car and trailer.  By half past 10 we were on the road back to Kokstad.  We had Laurie and the kids and Allan, Lauren and Lisa drove to Maritzburg to collect Granny Bangay.

Simon sat next to me in the middle row and chatted non-stop – longest conversation I’ve ever had with him as he is an affectionate by shy little boy.   He is very interested in birds (and fishing) and looked up enthusiastically each time we pointed out something to the kids.  He also spotted the hammerkop before anybody else. He then wanted to look at my bird field guide and raptor book. He knew the difference between eagles and vultures etc which I think is quite impressive. He also explained to me why they had the claws and beaks they had. Shannon has been teaching him well.

We stopped at Underberg for Just Juices and chips, which thrilled the little ones no end.

The house had not been left in ship-shape when we left and I just could not leave it alone.  Laurie and I started a major clean-up reminiscent of “Clean House”  on T.V.   We got all the kids involved and they had to tidy ‘Granny’s room” scrub the bathroom, vacuum and wash up and dry up.  We also did a load of washing and hung it outside but had to rush to bring it in and hang it on the clothes horse when the rain came pelting down!  I also tidies and re-packed all Lauren’s kitchen cupboards.  The poor girls has so little space in that tiny kitchen.  The plan is to do renovations very soon!

Shan has come down with tonsillitis. As soon as we got home she fell fast asleep on the couch. After Lauren came back from PMB she took her to the doctor.  She is now on mooty and should be fine for Christmas!

 

 

With the car packed and prepared for a bird active weekend, we set off at 7:50 a.m. this morning.   The temperature was 15⁰C and raining and the mercury dropped to 12⁰ at the Tokai turnoff.

The first wild creatures we encountered were baboons on the pass through the Breede River Valley.   We arrived in Ceres at 8:47 and had a quick and delicious breakfast at The Wimpy.

We drove on slowly and as we ventured further and further into the Karoo, the temperature rose and the rain stopped.

Because of the recent rains, dams were full, rivers were running, and so many water birds were included on our list.  We stopped on river bridges and next to ponds and dams and also spotted the odd birds of prey about, the most abundant being Pale Chanting Goshawk and Jackal Buzzard.

After driving over Theronsberg pass where we encountered a bit of mist, the weather cleared and the sun came out although the temperature was only 16⁰C at 10:00 a.m.   We stopped at Karoopoort where there is a picnic spot opposite a farmhouse.  It is known for fairy flycatcher and Layard’s titbabbler in the poplar trees. Two weeks ago when we were on a trip with Brian’s Birding we’d seen both these birds among others but today we only got Greater-striped swallow, Cape Canary, Malachite sunbird, double-collared sunbird, pied starling and familiar chat.

At 11h10 we came to the place where the R46 forks into the R354 to Calvinia and the R355 to Sutherland.  At this fork, there is a picnic site where we’d seen Karoo Eromomela and a Layard’s titbabbler nest with Brian.  There was no chance of seeking birds here as being Heritage Day the local population were out in force with loud music and a determination to fulfil their mission of making the braai, which the country had been exhorted to do to celebrate their heritage!  We did, however, see a little bird we were not sure of.  It called out a cheerful prrr prrr from a perch some distance away, we took its portrait, and later identified it as a grey-backed cisticola.

We then followed the R354 and the birding was good.  We saw White-throated canary, yellow canary, Jackal buzzards – many – pale chanting goshawk – many – one black harrier flying, large-billed lark, another grey-backed cisticola, many Cape weavers and black-headed canaries briefly as we crossed the Doring River.  There were also two tortoises crossing the road and I hopped out to put them into a safer location.

At around 4 o’clock we arrived at Bizansgat, which is halfway between Ceres and Sutherland.   We found this little cottage on the net and had no idea what we were coming to other than that it had no electricity!   Deville Wickens, the owner, is based in Cape Town and told us that Petrus, his farm labourer would see to our needs. 

We crossed a little river and were met by the most charming sight – a tiny-whitewashed cottage with a rietdak and wooden stable door and small windows designed to keep the building warm in winter and cool in summer and not for view or light!   The kitchen had a small, square skylight, which lit the room perfectly.  None of the internal walls reached all the way up to the ceiling and there was no running water anywhere in the cottage, which consisted of a bedroom, kitchen and living area.   It was delightful. The walls were hung with family photographs, the rooms simply furnished in the style of earlier years.   On the top of the wall in the bedroom were perched the cutest hats and gloves reminiscent of those my grandmother would have worn.  

“Where,” I wondered was the bathroom and wash-up area – the kitchen had a fridge and gas stove, dressers with crockery and cutlery but little else.   We explored and found an outhouse which I was loathe to go into but then Earl called – “Look, Die Wasklip”. And there was the ablution black.  The wash up sink was on the stoep and there were two delightful bathrooms each with double basins, shower and loo.   Everything was prettily furnished; there was a place to hang towels, a cubicle for dressing in and a full-length mirror.   When going to the Wasklip one had to cover one’s head with one’s hands as the swallows bombarded one for fear that their chicks would be disturbed! There was also an old barn converted into a recreation room where one could light a fire in a lovely old hearth, read the many magazines and books or play an assortment of games.  This place is a find!  It’s charming, peaceful and has a view to die for. 

  Close to the cottage is a lovely pond “all set about by willow trees” and two farm geese think they have sole rights to it. Should you dare to intrude the white male honks and rushes at you with neck scarily outstretched!  We had to teach him his manners but he was a slow learner.  Fortunately, it was more for show than meanness.

Petrus who arrived shortly after we arrived was just as I imagined – a throwback from the indigenous people he is clearly descended from and we could not have wished to meet a more charming and willing man.  I asked him to pose for a photograph, which he did with great pride. 

After unpacking and settling in we went for a walk and were thrilled at the birdlife we found.   Namaqua warbler were calling invitingly and we saw malachite sunbirds, white-backed mousebirds, Karoo robin, sickle-winged chat, Karoo chat among others.   We were thrilled with our photographs too.

Karoo Chat

 Sickle-winged chat

Namaqua Warbler

Cape Robin-chat

 Karoo scrub-robin

The braai was in a sheltered boma, protecting us from the wind and chill.   Earl produced a stunning early meal before it got dark and because there was little else to do without electricity, we went to bed early and read using our headlamps.  It was not as cold as I expected and we slept snug and warm.

 

I woke early but did not want to get out of bed fearing that I’d be met with an icy chill in the air but eventually I got up, donned slippers and fleece and went out to the loo.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was not that cold after all although when I checked later at 8 o’clock it was 9⁰C.    We ate our breakfast of delicious fruit salad and yogurt on the stoep.   From where we sat, we observed Karoo thrush, wagtails, three-banded plover, white-backed mousebirds, common fiscal, sickle-winged chats and Cape weavers.

Earl wanted to see Sutherland, 100km away, before making our way to Op Die Berg where we would spend the next two nights.   What he didn’t realise is how long the trip would take on the dirt road, stopping frequently to observe interesting Karoo birds! One of the highlights was a bar-throated apalis and later a rufous-eared warbler

 Earl’s Picture of Rufous-eared Warbler

 My picture of rufous-eared warbler

 Another rufous-eared warbler taken at another spot by me.

We were becoming quite weary of travelling the unexpectedly long road when in the middle of nowhere we came across a round construction/skerm with a  chalk board at the side of the road, inviting us to stop.  We read – Rek jou litte, krap en neem saam.  Gee ‘n regverdige donasie en reis veilig verder.

DIe Bosskerm

 The Goodies Inside

We hopped out and went inside to find a delightful array of goodies set neatly on a table.  Against the walls were cool boxes filled with drinks and cookies.    The prices were listed on a black board and there was a milk urn for the takings.   There wasn’t a soul in sight – it was all on trust!

We were so impressed that we spent R100 on cookies and fudge!  In addition, it rose our spirits and  gave us a warm glow to think that there are still people out there who have faith in human nature!

Sutherland was delightful – a typical little Karoo dorp.  We went to the local butcher and bought a whole lamb, which they cut up and packed in a cardboard box.  Little did we realize that it was just ‘chucked’ in.  Earl had expected them to pack like portions with like!   I had to do that later!

Having snacked on our ‘skerm’ snacks we were not that hungry so after filling up with fuel we went to a little tearoom called “Halley-sê-Kom-Eet” (a play on Halley’s comet or Halley’s Komeet in Afrikaans) Of course everything in the town relates to star-gazing.   I had a chocolate milkshake and Earl a cappuccino and apple cake – yes, I gave into temptation and had a few tastes.

 Halley se Komeet:-)

It was 1 o’clock when we left and retraced our way back along the R356.  At quarter to two, we reached the border between the Boland and Cape Winelands.   From a bridge, we looked down the river and saw a shelduck family with 10 babies.  We also saw a Cape Batis quite beautifully perched on a twig but it flew off before I could snap its portrait.

We continued on our way continuing to find more and more birds but unfortunately no coursers, korhaans or bustards.  Booted eagles were conspicuous by their absence – surprisingly as we’d seen many when we were with Brian two weeks ago.

Earl had a vague idea where we were staying but thought it would be on a farm before we came off the Katbakkies pass.  After much searching and a bit of frustration we realized that it was on the Op Die Berg road.   The confusing part was that we were looking for Houdenbek but it is part of a group called Môre Stêr and those were the signs we saw!

1. We had to come through a security gate but did not have a code and there was nobody to open up for us for several minutes.  Then somebody drew up behind us, entered his code and we passed through.  There was nobody at reception either.  A guest who was housed next to the office told us that the receptionist had gone off duty.   We decided to simply find the cottage and move in and as we came up to it, we heard shouts and a woman came running down to welcome us.  She said that she’d tried to phone us but got no reply.  Not surprising since there was no cell reception there or on the road we had just travelled.

The cottage was lovely, the highlight being a ball and claw bath in the corner of the bedroom with just a screen for privacy!  It provided a deep and luxurious soak!   There was also a separate shower and loo.

Earl braaied outside although it was a tad chilly.  I did the vegetables in the micro and made a small salad and we finished our meal with a delicious fruit salad and yogurt.

It was freezing this morning, about 10⁰C with a stiff wind blowing.    After a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs and kidneys, we went to check out the dam.  The rock formations in the area are fascinating and the dam is surrounded by these rocky hills.  The first bird that I spotted this morning was a hoopoe perched atop a rock outside our cottage.   High up on the rocks at the dam we saw Egyptian and Spur-winged geese.   We were parked on the crest of a hill and Earl wandered down to get a better fishing spot then came back and called me to see a cute little bird he didn’t quite recognize.  I reluctantly put my nose out into the chill, wandered down the hill, and into my path hopped said bird – a little Cape Siskin but he did not stay long enough for a photo shoot.  Earl decided that it was not worth braving the elements in the slim chance that a trout would jump onto his line so we headed out toward Skitterykloof to search once again for the cinnamon breasted warbler.  We’d seen it two weeks earlier with Brian’s Birding but this time we dipped on the experience.

While we were parked a skedonk of a little red car passed us and pulled up in front.  A bohemian looking man emerged.    Leica binoculars dangling on his chest, he strode toward us.

“You are looking for the Cinnamon Breasted Warbler,” a French accent politely asked. “I’ve seen him here yesterday.’

Well, thanks for that – but he could not be found today!

We chatted to the fascinating Frenchman who was armed with Callan, Clare and Jonathan’s Southern African Birdfinder and he told us that he was spending a few months in the country looking for all the specials.  It was clear that he was widely travelled and had an excellent knowledge of the birds of all the countries he visited.   In fact, he was probably more clued up than we were.

“You should get in touch with the Cape Bird Club,” Earl suggested and pointed to me. “You are talking to the secretary right now.”

I hoped he did not have expectations that just because I was a committee member I would be an expert on the birds of the Little Karoo and the rest of South Africa!

He was delighted at the news saying he had been thinking of contacting the club and I gave him my details saying we would do anything possible to help him with guides and outings.  I mentioned Brian Vanderwalt of Brian’s Birding and he continued in his delightful French accent, “Yes I met him at Rooiels while looking for the rock jumper which I did not find.  But because of that, I decided to go to Sir Lowry’s Pass and there I find the Rock Jumper.   And there is something else I must tell you though it is nothing to do with birds and you might not be interested but while I am there, I see a leopard (he pronounces it lee-oa-pard).

My mouth drops open – not be interested – is he kidding!

We tell him that a lee-oa-pard – is an amazing sighting even in a game reserve and he sees it on Sir Lowry’s Pass!   There are Cape Leopards in the surrounding mountains and particularly near Betty’s Bay,  but at the rock jumper spot – not that I know of.  This is most exciting.

After chatting a little more and discussing routes that we planned taking, he drove off.

We passed him further on and took the R354 to Tankwa Karoo National Park.   A chilly wind was blowing and there was a spit and a spot of rain, but not enough to wet the ground.   We stopped to look at a lark when suddenly a bird I instantly recognized dropped on the ground in front of me.  Earl and I got a beautiful view of a black-eared sparrow-lark – not as easy to find as his cousin the grey-backed sparrowlark – so I was thrilled but as I was about to snap he flew far into the low scrub and disappeared.  Just then, the Frenchman pulled up behind us.   Earl told him what we’d just seen and he said, “That eez ze bird I am looking for!”   We walked into the veld and soon a few of the little birds flew up and then just as quickly dropped down and disappeared.  This went on for some time and Earl and I left him to try to get good views of this Karoo Special.

He caught up to us later and reported that he had got good views of the birds and even watched them protecting their fledglings.

I knew that European Bee-eaters were arriving in the area for summer but did not expect to see one so when we stopped on a bridge it was a thrill to see two although the photograph was disappointing.

A little later we almost rode over a puff-adder impersonating a thick stick!   Ugh!

Our French friend was also searching for bustards, korhaans and coursers and we kept our eyes peeled for all of the above.  The only other exciting thing we found for him were Namaqua Sandrouse and he was thrilled with that.

 Grey-backed sparrowlarks male front.

 Namaqua Sandgrouse – male -left

Just before getting to Tankwa Karoo National Park Reception, we saw two Ludwig’s Bustards, but they raced off toward the crest of a hill and all but disappeared into the veldt, which is the same colour as them.

We went to the loo, filled our water bottles with beautifully cooled filtered water at reception and asked for advice on the best route back to Houdenbek.   My South African pride swelled when I saw the clean facilities and experienced efficient service from the staff.  Well done Sanparks for achieving high standards.

We retraced our steps and met Stephane again, told him to look out for the bustards and then left him to enquire about accommodation at Tankwa.

We drove home as quickly as the dirt road would allow and stopped only for the most interesting birds and managed to get some fair pictures of grey-backed sparrowlark, red-capped lark, thick-billed and Karoo lark.

   Karoo Lark

 Large-billed Lark

   Red-capped Lark

It was bitterly cold when we arrived home so we decided to braai indoors.  This was a wise decision as the rains came too.

After a lovely fruit salad breakfast, we packed up and set off for home.   On our way out, we stopped to photograph Karoo Thrush and to watch common fiscals with their fledglings.

It was cold and wet, so birding on the way home was not that great but we took a picturesque drive over Bain’s Kloof and enjoyed the magnificent scenery.   It was sunny on the other side and we arrived home to a sunny but cool 15⁰C  in Sun Valley.

 

Friday 7 August 2009

Off to Kleinbaai

Saturday 8 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 2

Sunday 9 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 3

Monday 10 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 4

We were really lucky to have such great weather this weekend.  This morning the change set in and there was a stiff, cold wind blowing.   After another delicious Early breakfast we packed up and were ready to leave by half past eleven.   Gus and Earl towed the boat while I drove the rest of us back in the Caravelle.   We took the scenic rout again, which was lovely as once again we escaped the traffic while enjoying the wonderful scenery of Kleinmond, Betty’s Bay, Clarence Drive, Rooi Else, Gordons Bay and Strand etc.   We arrived home at 2:30 and the men were an hour behind us as they’d stopped to see somebody on the way.

Daniel’s family arrived at exactly the same time to drop Joshua off – Perfect timing and a wonderful end to a terrific weekend.

We got up at half past eight this morning.  Earl said it was not a good day for fishing so we should take the boys to de Hoop.  He set about making a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, tomato, bacon and banana on toast and by 9:30, we were packed and ready to go.   “You would never get my family out of the house so quickly,” Daniel pipe up.   “We always take hours to get ready!”

Welcome to our life, Danny boy!

The rain held off and it was a pleasant drive to the reserve.  On the way, we saw blue crane, one or two jackal buzzards, a few grey and black headed herons, pied starlings, common fiscals, bokmakieries, canaries and weavers.    In one farm field, we saw flocks of Egyptian and Spur wing geese interspersed with grey herons and pied starlings.    The boys did not know much about birds but they showed a great deal of interest.   We also spotted a number of yellow mongooses in the farmlands.  

As we entered the park, we spotted three ospreys flying overhead.   We concluded that they must have been a male and female with their fledgling.   We also saw a black sparrow hawk but could not get good photographs of any of these birds.  The first buck we saw were bontebok of which there are many in the park.   Koppie Allen was our first stop and we took a walk down to the beach.  The boys were thrilled to see an accessible sand dune and raced up to play on it.   Greg, Earl and I continued to the beach and explored the rocks before the boys came to join us.  Two beautiful African Black Oystercatchers sunned themselves on a rock and I saw Cape weavers in the dune vegetation as well as a prinia and some bulbuls.   After examining the life in the rock pools and some scrambling over rocks we made our way back.  The boys ran ahead and as it was low tide discovered the cave!   The adults left them to play, climbed up to the outlook, and scanned the bay for whales – luck was with us and we observed three frolicking happily in the bay.  

I had to go back to drag the boys away from their ‘strandloper’ cave and they were quite disappointed when I explained that nobody would have lived in a cave that the tide washed into on a daily basis.  However, I said, they probably used it as a daytime shelter.  That consoled them.

By this time, it was after one and all the activity had stimulated the young appetites and so we headed for the restaurant which has been up and running for a year now.  As we arrived, I noticed some unusual looking buck and made Earl do a u-turn to check them out.  They were eland – lovely to see as they are not very common.

 The menu did not indicate anything appealing for kids and so I suggested they go for a mussel starter – but the faces said it all – they wanted junk food!   Fortunately, the friendly owner noticed and said, what do you want for lunch?  “Hamburgers!” came the reply.  The waitress said – “he is not the waiter – hasn’t your mother taught you not to talk to strangers?   We have pizza – what kind would you like? “ The faces lit up and in unison they all said, “Hawaiian”  Except Jay – he dithered as he really loves mussels but in the end he couldn’t resist what the others had chosen.  Greg doesn’t eat mussels but Earl and I decided to have a starter portion each, and we all had the cob with a mild curry sauce and vegetables.   I knew that Jay and Josh would help me with the mussels but ended up having only one  as the other two decided that they looked two delicious to miss!   Next time I will insist that they have ‘proper’ food and skip the kids’ pizza – if there is a next time!

After lunch the weather turned for the worse and it poured all the way home.  We’d heard that it had been stormy and miserable in Cape Town all day so we were not surprised that it had caught up with us too.   I hope that tomorrow will clear up because these boys are dying to fish.

Once home they played cards for a while then got itchy feet and jumped onto the bikes and rode to the harbour.    They returned begging to go back to fish off the harbour wall but they did not have the right tackle. 

Earl and Greg went to get two pizzas for supper and together with the left over ones from lunch this is what we had for supper.   We went to bed at 8:30 leaving the boys to watch a bit of television.  It was late before they finally quietened down and went to sleep!

Finally, the great day of departure had arrived.  Jay and Joshua’s two friends, Leo and Daniel slept over last night, all the luggage was packed and we just needed to pack the food and overnight bagss, hook the trailer to my Caravel and leave.  

The house was dark and silent when I arose and crept about doing those last minute chores and ticking off my checklist. I always have a phobia that a vital item will be forgotten and then because of it the holiday will be ruined!   Once I was satisfied, I woke Earl and when we were almost ready, we got the four excited boys out of bed, gave them a quick bowl of cereal and by 7:30 we were on our way – the boys and I following Grandpa and Greg who were towing the ‘cat’ Kiora.  As we left, I told the boys to say a silent prayer to God to look after us.    Jay decided that he would say the prayer aloud and said, “Dear God, please protect us on this trip, make sure we don’t crash and keep us safe and Grandpa and Greg too.”     “Did you hear the prayer, Grandpa and Greg?”  he’d pressed in the button of his walkie-talkie while he prayed!   “Yes thank you Jay,” came Greg’s reply.

By way of explanation – Greg is 21 years old and crews on Whale Rider and Kiora for Earl.   He will be fishing in the competition at Kleinbaai next Saturday and it is his penance to help look after the boys this week!

I checked the time on the dashboard clock and at the same time noticed the fuel gauge.  I had forgotten to fill up!  So Jay was once again given the opportunity to call his grandfather to inform him that would stop for Diesel in Fish Hoek.

As we travelled, we watched a stunning sunrise as Cape Town was graced with yet another clear sunny day.   The temperature, however, did not rise above 15⁰.   Earl stopped in Grabouw to buy meat at a friendly butchery whose fare is the best in the Western Cape!  I continued and the trip was smooth with only one stop/go and very little traffic.   The boys were chatty but well behaved and played the odd game of car cricket but otherwise just enjoyed each other’s company.  Daniel’s mom had packed each boy a snack pack so I did not have to worry about handing out from the general one with contributions from all.   We have so much ‘lekkergoed’ that I doubt we will get through it all!

I tried to make the trip educational and gave snippets of information from time to time – we are on Baden-Powell Road – note the birdlife here – do you see any oystercatchers on Strandfontein beach – we are now on the N2 –We are passing through Somerset West – this mountain pass is called Sir Lowry’s.  At the bottom of the pass we have the turnoff to Grabouw village – Grandpa is getting our meat there.   Now we turn into Caledon – we are halfway there now – two more towns – Napier and Bredasdorp then we turn off to Struisbaai.   I also pointed out the birdlife.  Jay and Joshua remembered the names of some but the other boys were new to birding.  They did know the national bird was THE BLUE CRANE  – there was a huge flock in a field just outside Caledon.   A few minutes after giving them the information I tested them – what is the name of the pass we have just been over, what is the town we have just been through? They gave me some amusing answers – Canada!  – for Caledon – Sir Laurie’s pass for Sir Lowry’s – omigosh – hopefully they will get it on the way home!

We left the petrol station at 7:50 and after a splendid 215km drive, arrived at our holiday house at 10:25.   Earl and Greg arrived half an hour later, which was not bad going since he was towing a boat and stopped to buy meat.

While we were waiting for the guys to arrive, Jay and Leo walked to the beach and Daniel rode around on one of the bikes.  Then again, after they’d helped unpack they hopped on the bikes and went to explore Struisbaai.

I made ham and avo rolls for lunch, and then Earl and Greg took them for a drive to Agulhas.  They made a noisy return at 14:00 and then raced off on their bikes again. 

After tea, they all jumped into the back of the Hi-Lux and Earl took them to the dunes where they clearly had a ball.   While they were gone, I prepared the braai salads and then went to the shop to get the boys a pack of cards, drawing books, crayons, pencils, and more juices for tomorrow.  

We braaied steak, chops and sausage and the kids ate like the growing boys they are!  After supper, they set up their beds and after a bit of hi-jinks we all sat down and watched Strictly Come Dancing on T.V!