Sadly, I am nearing the end of my trip report and writing it has been almost as good as being there as it brings home all those happy memories!  It was chilly again in the early morning as we packed to make the long trek to T.R.   At Kasper se draai waterhole we once again watched larks, sandgrouse and red-headed finches do their morning ablutions and take on some liquid in preparation for a warm day.

 Soon after we saw this lovely lanner falcon – at last he sat still for a decent photograph.

Our breakfast stop at quarter to ten was at Dikbaardskolk and we enjoyed our hosts the yellow mongoose, ground squirrels and various birds.

And then my wish came true. Since day 1 of the trip I had my heart set on a Black-chested snake-eagle in a tree and there before me was the ultimate of BCSEs.  The light was great and the bird sat still!  We  must have snapped a hundred each and all were lovely but this is my favourite.  

The sightings for the rest of the trip were great and as birders we always enjoy the feathered friends.  Here is a greater kestrel that also decided that he’d give us a photo shoot.

We stopped at Auchterlonie at 2 o’clock and got lovely pics of spike-heeled larks.  

At the waterhole a pair of ostrich parents were trying to control their unruly chicks.

 And just past Monro waterhole the iconic suricates bade us farewell.

We arrived at T.R. at 4 o’clock and checked into the bungalow  next to the one we had on our first two nights.   It was as yet unoccupied and Heather slipped in to see if our forgotten vegetables were still there – no luck! 

Heather and I went for a walk around the camp and came across this interesting little bird. I think it is a non-breeding black-chested prinia.   

His black chest is barely visible.

 we decided that we would spoil ourselves and later that evening we went to the restaurant for dinner.   It was delightful and although we prefer self-catering this place is worth a try.    The food was delicious – We all had venison pie and it was served with vegetables and a choice of chips, rice or potato.

We were packed and ready to go by 7 o’clock and as Twee Rivieren is at the entrance/exit gate we didn’t even have a last few hours to savour the last few moments before departure.  But the good news was that we were headed for Augrabies and we were all looking forward to that.  Earl and I were there 15 years ago but it was Heather’s first visit.  She has  had it on her list of things to do since she was 23 years old!

Our trip there was lovely as we spotted a number of interesting birds and stopped for coffee and at one of those picnic tables at the side of the road.  It was freezing, however, so after pouring coffee we sat inside the car to drink it.

What I found a bit disturbing was the number of bat-eared fox road-kill we saw.  I stopped counting after twelve.

We shopped for supplies in Uppington  – remember the forgotten vegetables at T.R. – our plan being to spend one night at AFNP.  

On arrival I handed my documents inn and was then greeted with a strange look from the clerk.   Ahem – you should have been here yesterday.  What!   Uh oh – I had booked telephonically and when I got my papers I did not check the dates and Sanparks had booked me into Augrabies and Twee Rivieren on the same night!  My fault, I know for taking it all for granted.   

As luck would have it they had not marked me as “no show’ so no penalty was charged – and they still had accommodation.   After half an hour sense reigned and we decided we would like to stay an extra night so raced back to reception to see if it were possible. We were in luck again but had to ‘down-grade to accommodation with only one bathroom – Did we care?  Not at all!  The chalet was lovely.   The accommodation at AFNP is ‘upmarket’ – well to us plebs it certainly was.   The kitchen was well-equipped and had everything that opened and shut.  The bedrooms were cosy and the plumbing was excellent.  We were right next to the restaurant and we had a great view towards the river.   Birdlife was prolific and kept us entertained as we sat on our stoep or walked around the gardens.    It was a lovely place to end our holiday.

Heather was impatient to see the falls so after rapidly unpacking we took a walk to see where all the noise was coming from.   Because of all the heavy rains the falls were pretty spectacular – but not as wonderful as after the recent storms.

Here are some pics of what we saw.

  During the two days that we spent we drove into the game area twice.   The scenery is magnificent but we were disappointed not to see too much wild life.  These are the critters we did find. 

Klipspringer

Giraffe

Monkey

Kingfisher

Around camp it was different and we had fun wondering around getting photographs and just enjoying the birdlife.  

White-throated Canary 

Pale-winged Starilings

n our last night we decided to eat at the restaurant – we hadn’t bought enough vegetables for our extra night and were not up to having rice or smash!    We settled down at an outdoor table and just after we put in our order a couple came to sit at the table next to ours.   The man looked vaguely familiar and when I glanced at his wife I realised they matched and that I did indeed know them both. 

Hullo,” I said before his name, dropped into my head.  He looked at me vaguely and greeted back without recognition.

“You know me,” I said – still the name hadn’t registered.  

“Helen!” said the wife.

Robbie grinned broadly – then the names came.  “Hullo, Robbie. Hullo Marryl.” 

They were old friends we hadn’t seen for about three years so it was a happy reunion.  They no longer live in Cape Town having retired to Mossel Bay.   Earl had stepped away to make a cell phone call and was thrilled when he came back to find his old friends at our table. We had a superb evening catching up.  They were on their way to Kgalagadi. 

After a delicious dinner we decided to order dessert but (and here I have one minor complaint about the restaurant) – we were told that the kitchen was closed! Oh my!  Well, luckily  we had still had a couple of tins of peaches and ideal milk we’d been carrying around for days so we all ended up at our chalet for dessert and coffee. 

The next morning we reluctantly packed up and set off for home.   We have an extended family so expected to be greeted by rowdy grandsons full of questions about where we had been – instead there was silence and the only greeting we received was a meow from the cat.  We checked the cupboards – but no all their clothes were still there – they hadn’t left home and returned some hours later bursting to tell us of the fun they’d had at Ratanga Junction!

To see more photographs – check out my face book page.

We were packed up and ready to go just at gate opening time.  It was chilly and we needed our jerseys and I had a knee rug for extra cosiness.

First up near 13^th waterhole were giraffes – about 8 or so.  

We were cruising slowly toward 13^th when I yelled stop – owls.  Earl reversed back and well-hidden deep in a thorn tree were two sleeping white-faced scops owls. Photography was difficult but we managed to get one or two good shots.   After spending some time with them we moved on to 13^th where we met Norma and her friend whose name now escapes me.   We knew they were keen on birds so took them back to the owl tree.  Before they turned around they told another couple and they too followed to the spot!

About 10km past 13^th we came upon the same group of cheetahs seen yesterday.  Lots of jackals were about and it looked like they were finishing off a meal.  They were quite far away so pics not too great.

 This cute juvenile marico caught our attention.

I can’t resist posting more adorable ground squirrel.

At 10 o’clock we stopped for breakfast at Kamqa Picnic site – it was quite windy and cold but we found a sheltered table.

My elusive Black-breasted snake eagle flew over us and I managed to get him in the air but oh how I longed for him to be in a tree!

The steenbok in the park are obliging about posing.

At a waterhole we met a mother and daughter in a CY car and stopped to chat.  It turned out that they were in a borrowed 4X4 and not from Belville at all.  They lived right in our area and the daughter Mia was at school with our Lauren! Small world.

Just as we came over the crest of a hill, Earl slammed on breaks and said, “Look behind” – Slithering slowly across the road was a cobra.  Heather managed to get some shots.  Earl did not want to reverse as it would be difficult for a following car to see us just below the crest of the hill.

We arrived at Nossob at around 3:30 and once again check in was smooth and painless.  But directions to our chalet – 11b were somewhat vague but we finally found it on the top of a rise with a stunning view across the camp.   The neighbours were sweet but kept appearing to beg for scraps. So hard to resist but wild things must fend for themselves!

After unpacking Heather and I checked out the hide and spent about an hour enjoying the little things – rufous vented titbabbler flitted in a tree in front of our eyes but never sat still enough for a photo.

However, the drongo said – forget about him – I’m a handsome chap – take me.

A jackal obliged with a pic of himself having an sundowner and a wood sandpiper strutted about proudly in the puddles.

We also watched some raptors flying high overhead, and identified two tawnies.  But they were too far for a photograph.

Our first sighting this morning on our way to do Marie se pad was this bold fellow walking toward us on the road.  He had no intention of shooting off into the bush and obligingly  spent some time with us.

Our first bird was superb for so early in the morning – a special in Kgalagadi – a red-necked falcon.

Not long after we saw a strange looking raptor way across the terrain perched peacefully in a tree.  The light was bad and we could barely make out what it was. But we all have good binoculars and after consulting books and debating among ourselves there was only one bird it could be – A palm-nut vulture.  But later we found out that we had it totally wrong and it was a pale form tawny eagle. How confusing these raptors can be!

Kori bustards are everywhere in Kgalagadi but I could not resist putting this one in.  He had been very busy stamping about the countryside and came up nice and close because the grass was giving him some protection.

This lark, I am convinced is a fawn-coloured lark – but I could be seriously wrong – all larks look the same!

I was looking in the bird book puzzling over said lark when Earl stopped and said – look at this strange cat!  OMIGOSH – It wasn’t a lion – it wasn’t a African wild cat – It does exist!   Right there on the side of the road – well camouflaged in the fawn coloured long dry grass was the creature we’ve been seeking on every game park trip – A CARACAL! 

It was 10:30 and we were 5km from Nossob. He stood stock still and stared at us for quite some time. Then somebody else came by and we pointed him out.  They looked until he started moving then drove off. We had him to ourselves again and followed him until he disappeared into the bush.

WOW – That was surely the highlight of the whole trip – a caracal at last! 

We returned to Nossob for breakfast and then went out again straight after, deciding to see how far north we could get.   The roads were quite good but the sightings were sparse.  However, what we did see was interesting

The problem with travelling in this direction is that one runs out of picnic sites and ablutions – so with the car door for our only protection we took turns to do the unthinkable, near Bedinkt Waterhole.  But oooh what a relief when it was all safely accomplished without a predator coming to investigate!

Of course we saw the usual beautiful gemsbok, springbok, wildebeest and steenbok from time to time but no cats.  But this morning’s caracal had us on a high that we still haven’t come down from.

A bird that for me is iconic in the arid regions is Namaqua sandgrouse and although we’d seen hundreds at the water holes we hadn’t yet had a close encounter with them until travelling back on the dune road we found 2 male and 2 females.  They were on the road but quickly scurried for cover in the dune grass.

We also got bat-eared foxes but too far for a pic.

We left Twee Rivieren at half past seven and the first bird to greet us perched on the fence was the beautiful Swallow-tailed bee eater,

followed shortly thereafter by a yellow canary.  We continued to get sighting of these birds throughout the day but the latter were not too co-operative at photo shoots.

Earl claimed he saw a red-backed shrike, so common in Kruger and he knows it well but the rest of us dipped on it.   Of course our usual favourites, scaly-feathered finch, white-browed sparrow-weavers and capped wheatear were always about and keen to have their portraits taken.

At 8:20 we got our first pygmy falcon of the trip and were on a real high about it when we came upon a KTP traffic jam – about four cars stopped on the side of the road about four kilometers before Houmoed waterhole.

“Wow, look at all the jackals,” said I.  “That’s unusual to see so many together.”  Then we saw why – about 100m from the road – two young lions on a wildebeest kill.   It was fresh so must have happened at sunrise or just before.  How wonderful not to have to fight for position to see as although quite far from the road they were in the clear and there was plenty of room for everybody to park and see.    The young lioness was resting under a tree but the male continued to wrestle with the carcass, seeing off the bravest and cheekiest of the jackals.   There must have been about 12 of them waiting for an opportunity to get their share.   We watched as the lion dragged the carcass closer to his mate and then leave it some distance from where she was and then he went to join her.  It was a thrill to see them interact and play with each other.  The jackals stayed close but did not dare grab a morsel of the wildebeest for fear of consequences.

We were on our way to Mata Mata so could not spend too long fraternizing with our feline friends so after enjoying them for half an hour we moved on to Houmoed waterhole.  We were thrilled to see our first surricates but they scampered off quickly so photographs were not great. Of course the Ground Squirrels were about too.

I tried to snap this PCG but he got tired of posing and decided to leave his perch – I’m rather pleased I snapped that second too late!

What we found most fascinating were the scores of Namaqua Sandgrouse that flew noisily down to the water to drink then without warning all took off again together, flew around and then returned.  They would do this in rounds several time before all flying off to an unknown destination.

We stopped again at Auchtelonie Picnic Site for the traditional “Earlie” breakfast and once again the Abdim’s stork was visiting.  We realized that he must be a regular here and has become quite tame.   Strangely we saw no other Abdims in the park at all and wondered if he was lost.   Abdims do frequent the Kalahari after rain so it was not that odd for him to be there – but without friends?

At Montrose Waterhole there was a large herd of gemsbok resting under the trees but little else.  We did see a tawny eagle flying overhead.

At Kanqua Waterhole the secretaries were having a coffee break.  One decided she needed to powder her nose and got carried away with a dust bath.

Thirteenth Waterhole had a huge herd of springbok and they sensibly were resting under trees too.

It was also great to see a lilac breasted roller – not as common here as in Kruger.

At Thirteenth we witnessed and interesting interaction between springbok and secretary birds.   There were two or three springbok drinking when three or four secretary birds made their way to the drink too.  One would think that these two creatures would not have a problem with each other but the springbok took exception to them drinking at his hole and gave them a hard time attempting to but them out of the way. It was really quite amusing but the sec birds held their own and slaked their thirst while ignoring the pesky buck.

At Fourteeth Waterhole we had fun observing the red-headed finches swarming down for quick sips of water then rapidly flying up to settle in a tree for a few minutes before swooping down for more refreshment.   The do this, I think to make it extremely difficult for a lanner to catch them and for a photographer to snap them.  A single shaft-tailed whydah made a brief appearance but disappeared before we could get a pic.

We arrived at Mata Mata at quarter to four, check in was smooth and we were given the keys for number 1.   This family cottage was great – two bedrooms, a separate kitchen, bathroom and loo and hand basins in each bedroom.   The ‘’lounge also had 2 beds so it would be suitable accommodation for 6 people.  

We did not go out in the afternoon but enjoyed the birdlife in the camp and visited the shop because – oops – I’d left the onions, sweet potatoes and green avos in a drawer at Twee Rivieren.  I reported it but needless to say I never saw my vegetables againL  

Well here is a warning to everyone – there is no fresh produce available at KTP shops.    You can buy rice, smash and vegetables in cans.   There is also a variety of canned picnic meats – ham, beef, tuna etc.   You can buy long life milk – low fat and full cream – no fat free.   Any amount of alcoholic beverage is available.  Fresh fruit juices are unobtainable but you can get Just Juice, grapetizer, appletizer etc.   Also any carbonated drinks and mineral water both still and sparkling.

Fresh eggs are available as well as sliced bread.

Our first bird this morning was a white backed vulture – far away at the top of a tree so no photo. Soon after the cute little pygmy falcons and a kestrel chasing a lilac breasted roller! Impossible to imortalise but we enjoyed watching them.

We continued to see the usual chats, flycatchers, capped wheatears and sparrow-weavers but nothing exciting turned up for a few hours.

At Sitsas Waterhole there was quite a bit of activity with red hartebeest, Springbok and Gemsbok hanging out together.   A pale changing goshawk displayed strange behavior by pulling bark off the branch he was sitting on.  I guess he was looking for insects.

Then we had an unusual sighting.   A Volkswagen drew up next to us and asked what we could see in the tree.  We told him it was a PCG and then Heather said, “Aren’t you Burger Cellié?”  He nodded.  She’d recognized him from his photo on the back of The Raptor Guide of Southern Africa which he co-authored with Ulrich Oberprieler.  And that’s how I got two books by the same authors autographed in the Kgalagadi!  (The other one is The Bird Guide of Southern Africa.) Both are photographic guides and are excellent.  I never leave home without them.

Our second snake of the trip was this guy.  I have no idea what he is – must really get a reptile field guide.

We arrived at Craig Lockhart Waterhole at quarter to twelve and spent almost an hour there.   It was fascinating watching namaqua dove, red-headed finch and lark-like buntings swoop down to drink then take off again at high speed.  A lanner made a brief appearance but must have thought the effort of hunting these hyper-active birds was just not worth it – or he’d already eaten!

 After the birds had flown off as quickly as they’d arrived the mammals got a chance at the waterhole.   There seems to be some sort of hierarchy among species as well as within their own because we noticed that while the gemsbok drank the red hartebeest kept away and the springbok seemed to be at the bottom of the pile.  

One hartebeest ‘skrikked when a gemsbok came too close to him and almost collided with his friend.

At Dalkeith we were once again watching bird activity when a car stopped to tell us there were cheetahs near 13^th Waterhole. We stopped arguing about larks and headed straight there.   We saw nothing but Springbok and a man with a huge lense at 13^th and asked him where the cheetah were.  He grumpily waved us on.   He’d obviously had his fill of the super fast predator.

The 6 to 8 cars marked the spot and one could park just about anywhere and get a good view.  The mom and two teen-age cubs were resting under a tree quite far from the road but we were happy with the good views we had of them.  They did not just lie there and sleep but got up and walked around and at one time we thought a hunt might occur – but we were not so lucky.   None had collars – so not sure who they were.

After an hour we really needed to move on to Kamqua for a loo break.

We saw yellow-billed hornbills, a rock kestrel beautifully perched in a tree and a black chested snake eagle flying overhead.  I desperately wanted a photograph of one but when I did see him he flew away!  More on my quest later!

Very little happened on our return.  The cheetahs were still there and we watched for a while but then time insisted we move on.   We saw a few giraffe at a distance and then our finally sighting just before arriving back at Mata Mata – two white-backed vultures at the top of the tree. 

All the organizing and preparations were done.  Earl and I packed the car last night and set the alarm for 3 a.m.   A minute before my alarm went off , Heather phoned and I shut the cell off thinking it was my alarm!

At 4 we arrived at her house and within minutes we were off.  The day was overcast and cool and the trip continued to be pleasant all the way to Kalahari Guest House.  We stopped at the top of the pass and ate our packed breakfast. The view was stunning but the picnic site was in a state of disrepair!

The only other stops were to refuel, stretch legs and go to the loo.  We arrived at Kalahari Guesthouse at 2 o’clock.   Our accommodation was lovely – everything clean and neat Earl and I in a double room with bathroom and Heather in her own suite.  It was hot and after our long drive we were tired and hungry.   Riana brought us a refreshing tray of tea and biscuits and we then had a nap before taking a walk on the farm.   Paul has marked out a lovely bird route that ends at a hide overlooking the river where we observed a number of water birds including South African Shelduck.  

We could have self-catered, as there was a kitchen and living area too.  But we ordered dinner with our hosts and Riana cooked us a wonderful meal – starter – delicious mushroom soup and salad followed by roast lamb, roast chicken and all the delectable trimmings. The perfect finish was a decadent chocolate desert served with a scoop of ice-cream.

We left K.G.H. at 7 with a packed breakfast from Riana.  At about 8:30 we  stopped at a roadside picnic site to have coffee. 

We arrived at the newly renovated Twee Rivieren at 10 o’clock, checked in and then went straight out for a drive, as our cottage (number 2) would only be ready at 12.

What would we see first?  Earl said Springbok, Heather – gemsbok. I forever the optimist said –“Cheetah”

Ha – well it was Ground Squirrel, which continued to intrigue and amuse us several times during the entire trip.  How cute they are! 

Following that, we did see a good number of gemsbok and springbok – but sadly no cheetah!   Although there were herds of animals we were intrigued to see springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest dotted singly under trees or out in the open grazing alone.   Had they been expelled, or voluntarily chosen the single lifestyle?

Being the bird enthusiasts that we are we were constantly on the lookout for interesting feathered friends and were delighted to find many of the species we don’t see back in the Western Cape.

White-browed sparrow-weavers were everywhere – and as usual foxed us for the first few seconds every time we saw them.  The darling little scaly-feathered finches had us oohing and aahing too and I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of these tiny birds with the cutest ‘old man’ faces in neat bow ties. 

 The fly -catchers – well – what confusing birds but we managed to distinguish the spotted from the chat from the Marico.  

The beautiful capped wheat-ear was constantly seeking attention and gave us many opportunities to photograph him in flattering poses.

The sociable weavers never fail to fascinate.  And their nests boggle their mind.  How do these tiny birds construct such condominiums?   Even the Pygmy falcons think they’re worth renting but although we examined the entrances for white-wash we didn’t find any evidence of tenants. Perhaps it’s the wrong time of year.

Then  gazing at of these structures though, we did see an unwelcome intruder – a cobra in search of a meal!

 I don’t think these owners of the block will be happy to see crime in their area!

Near Houmoed water hole we got our first Kori Bustard of the trip.

 Nearby we decided to take a detour to a view point.    Earl wanted to go straight back down again but we persuaded him to do a loop.   It was a good choice because we saw the hard-to-spot Temminck’s Courser

and although they run at a rapid speed making photography difficult we managed to get some reasonable shots.

At 12;50 it was time to turn and retrace our route.   At Monro Waterhole we got our first Secretary  Bird – an absolute favourite of mine.

We arrived back at T.R. and picked up our key to the cottage.   A strange set up – two beds in the kitchen and 2 in the bedroom which leads off from the former.  And then the bathroom and loo lead off from the bedroom.   But it was comfortable and we were delighted to be there.

After unpacking and a snack we set off for another brief drive.   I like this pic of the immature Pale Chanting Goshawk – they were everywhere.  

The highlight was a Northern Black Korhaan female and I was delighted to get a poor photograph.  (Watch this spot for better ones later in the trip!)

We were well satisfied with our first day’s outing and it looked like we were going to have a great week in the park!

Today started badly.   We woke up late and rushed to get the snacks and juices packed and in the rush to get out there I forgot my jersey.  Now yesterday had been hot but today looked threatening.  Earl insisted that I would not need any extra warmth and continued to the gate to collect our permit.   But then I noticed that we’d also forgotten to pack the cool bag of drinks so we had to go back anyway.  I rushed inside and omigosh – we hadn’t locked up!  I think it was I who was the last one out so I felt very foolish and guess what – I still forgot to grab my jersey!   We saw the usual springbok, wildebeest and springbok and I love Earl’s photo of the forest of horns.  

Our first bird was a Jackal  Buzzard but not good enough for a photograph.   A Northern Black Korhaan disappeared into the bush so didn’t give us a photograph either.

At 10 past 8 it started to rain and the temperature dropped.  Luckily, Earl had left two jackets in the car so I didn’t suffer cold after all!   The wet weather gave us some different photo opportunities.   We found a pale chanting goshawk under a tree looking decidedly put off by the inclement weather.

Then the weather must have got to a lanner and a greater kestrel because they chased each other from tree to tree for some time.

The rain stopped after 20 minutes but a chill wind blew and it didn’t warm up till much later in the day.   This was the coldest day we experienced in the park. 

We stopped for breakfast at Auchterlonie and for the first time Earl could use his new toy!   As there are no skottels for hire like in Kruger he decided to buy a portable gas stove that is packed in a neat plastic carrier case.   Because it is square with the cylinder connected flat on the side, it cannot tip over.    We got ours at Christie’s Sports in Diep River, Cape Town.

It was cold at the picnic site and I was ever so grateful for Earl’s jacket.   After a warming and satisfying breakfast of scrambled eggs, tomato, bacon and banana on toast we were off in search of birds again.    

But as we were leaving we had an unusual visitor to the picnic site – an Abdim’s stork who posed obligingly for many photographs.  Other interesting sightings during the day were crimson-breasted shrike, a family of ground squirrels and one emerging from his hole, familiar chat, chat fly catchers, marico fly catchers, an Ovambo Sparrow-hawk, an ostrich family with about 5 chicks, a steenbuck, two springbok having a head to head confrontation among the usual jackals, secretary birds, kori bustards and red hartebeest.