2

Kruger National Park – Day 17

26 November 2017 – Satara to Lower Sabie

After the rain during the night, we thought we might have a wet pack-up this morning but although it was still overcast and cool the rain held off.  And by the afternoon the temperature rose to 35 degrees C.

We packed up, hitched the caravan, helped P&T with their tent and were on the H1-3 by 6:40 am.   P&T did some loops but we like to stick to the tar roads when we’re towing. The plan was to meet them at Tshokwane for breakfast.

Usually the tar roads are a little boring regarding sightings but today we were lucky.

At Punda Maria we’d seen the crested guineafowl which are not as common as the helmeted guineafowl and today the first one for the trip turned up.

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Elephants crossed in front of us and showed us their bums.

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I have been looking  for the weird and wonderful knob-billed duck and today he turned up in an unexpected place

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Knob-billed duck perched on top of a dead tree

Then we came upon a road block of cars and caravans

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A mating pair of lions

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Just having a break

We managed to get through the crush of cars and continued until the next road block!

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We made it to this spot just in time as the leopard was on the move and soon disappeared into the bush.  This was just 1km from the picnic site.

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Tshokwane Picnic Site

The Tshokwane picnic site serves a delicious Early Bird breakfast of egg, bacon and tomato with toast for only R25.   Coffee, of course, is extra but it is the best coffee in the park!   Pat and Tony caught up to us just as we put our order in and they ordered the same.   Should you ever find yourselves in KNP and at this picnic site, be aware that there is a huge problem with monkeys and baboons.  Guard your food!

On the remainder of the trip we continued to have some lovely sightings.

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A Zebra Crossing

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European Roller

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Elephants decorating the hillside

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Elephants scaring The Earl silly

We arrived at camp at around 11 am and got set up and then had a rest.  Pat and Tony arrived at 2 after taking the scenic route.

We all went out together again for short drive at 4 pm.  The birding was good first on the bridge overlooking the Sabie River.

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Giant Kingfisher

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Mommy Egyptian Goose with goslings

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Opened-bill Storks

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Catching something tasty

Then we went to the famous Sunset Dam.  We saw some special birds but with the sun setting photography was difficult.

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I managed a good shot of the white crowned lapwing

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Sunset Dam

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Pied Kingfisher admiring the sunset

It was a perfect evening our sweet husbands did a splendid braai for supper

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Thanks Guys

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Kruger National Park – Day 16 – Satara

25 November 2017 – An Awesome Day

After yesterday’s heat we woke to rain this morning – very welcome as The Park is dry and they need their rains.  It was also quite cold but nothing dampens ones spirits when in The Park.  A Bad Day in Kruger is still better than a Good Day at home.

By 6:35 we were exploring the H7.   As usual we stopped for every interesting bird.  We saw common waxbill flitting about and while we were enjoying them we heard the familiar clicks and then kyip, kyip kyip – the call of the Red-Crested Korhaan.  Then we saw him strutting across the road.   He then flew up and tumbled down free-fall style.  What an awesome bird.  We expected he was showing off for a female but she was clearly not interested as she remained hidden.

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Next to pop up unexpectedly was this chap.

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We saw the usual suspects too, elephant, zebra, kudu etc  before turning onto the S39.  This drive was good too and we found a tawny eagle and some vultures.   As we trundled along we saw two cars alongside of each other up ahead.  “Either they’re friends having a chat about their next route or the one is telling the other what he has seen.  I bet it’s a leopard,” said I.
As we approached, the one pulled away and parked in front. The other indicated that we should take his place.  ” If you look carefully – you will see a leopard,” he told us. We looked but couldn’t see anything so went ahead a little way and watched some birds.  The second car left but the first remained.  He must still have it we thought so we reversed to take another look.  Oh Wow.  There he was – quite a big male but still well hidden under the tree.

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Oh those wild eyes

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J need my rest, you know

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Here’s looking at you, kid!

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How long are you planning on staying ?

Reluctantly we left the scene to let the next car have a chance and soon reached Timbavati Picnic site where we hired a skottel and cooked breakfast.  It was raining a bit but we were quite dry under the thatch shelters.

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Our return trip produced more hyena and lovely birds but it was raining so photography was a bit difficult.  Back at camp we had a rest. At 3:30 I went to see if Pat and Tony were awake – they weren’t so I told The Earl that we should skip an afternoon drive.  But when they woke at 4 they were still keen to go out  and so at 4:30 we hit the S100.  I had a strange feeling that something exciting would turn up and Pat voiced the same thought.

Sure enough we got a lovely surprise. We found the occupants of two vehicles staring into the distance.   We could just see the flick of a tail and a twitch of an ear.   Another car approached and asked what there was.  We told her not much and then one of the lionesses got up and moved!  We then all go lovely views of her and the other one until they disappeared in the undergrowth again.  We thought we might find them on our return route but they were nowhere around.

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It was certainly worth going for that short drive to find our lions!

You would think camp cooking would be problematic when the weather is cold and wet.  But we were lucky.  The rain held off and we were quite content to sit under our canopy and enjoy a fabulous meal cooked once again by our Bush Master Chef.  It was a most delicious chicken and vegetable dish cooked on the Snappy Chef. (Induction Stove)

The resident hyenas patrolled past the fence quite frequently.  One actually stopped and stared at us as if to say – Please share your meal with me!  But of course we said – No way – go and hunt your own food!

It rained in the night and we expected a wet pack up the next morning!

 

0

Kruger National Park – Day 15 – Satara

24 November – Birds and Hyenas

There are no words to describe the thrill one has when one is woken in the night or early in the morning by the sounds of the bushveld.Β  Β We have heard the shrill laugh of the hyena the howl of the jackals and the roar of lions on several occasions since being in The Park.Β  This morning the hyenas were particularly vocal and urged me out of bed before 5 am. Pat had heard them and the lions too so was also up a the same rude hour.

We were meant to leave be out the gate by 6 am but it was a little after that before we hit the H1-3

First up was a zebra crossing and then a number of lovely bird sightings.

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African Harrier Hawk – getting his adult plumage

Soon we turned onto the H6

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A Swainson’s Spurfowl in full voice

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Purple Roller

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Isn’t the baby impala too cute

The H6 is famous for hyena sightings and we were not disappointed

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These two were on a mission

They were not the only two we saw – there were many lying fast asleep.Β  Clearly they’d had a hard night!

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These two opened weary eyes to check us out

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We also met up with wildebeest

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A handsome ostrich

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And this magnificent Martial Eagle

By 7:35 we’d turned onto the S37 where a herd of Impala scared The Earl silly by leaping in front of the car without warning.Β  Luckily we were going slowly as one must in a game reserve.

At 8:30 we got out at Sweni Hide and had a good time observing the activity there.

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A water buck and herd of impala came down to drink

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This yellow-billed stork sat on its haunches

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Then she lay right down.

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Perhaps standing on one leg gets a bit exhausting

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The grey heron walked post cranky crocodile without a care in the world

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And went to chat to the storks

 

Next we went to Sweni Picnic site which has a hide overlooking the river but there was not much to see.Β  However, we got a lovely puffback in the picnic area.

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Not easy to get this very vocal bird as he hides in the foliage.Β  Here he’s nicely puffed up.

We then followed the S41.Β  The birding was good

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We watched a bateleur catch and eat a mouse

Near the river we observed thousands of quelea swarming and hanging in the trees.Β  Pat suggested a good collective noun for them – A cloud of quelea.

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There were “Clouds” of Quelea everywhere

We then joined the S100 and had some good sightings along that route.

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Trumpeter Hornbill

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Great to get the pale form Wahburg Eagle

When he flew to another tree we saw this barn owl with its wings hanging down over the branch – very odd.

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Barn Owl acting strangely

We also enjoyed the giraffe and zebra

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We had planned to come back to camp for breakfast but only made it there by midday so instead went to The Rustic Kitchen for lunch.Β  Pat and I enjoyed a chicken salad and the men had chicken may toasties.

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We went out again at 4 pm and did the S100.

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This male waterbuck was very relaxed

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The Sabota Lark got some dinner

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A puffed up purple roller

It was cool this morning butΒ  the temperature rose to 35 in the afternoon.Β  Pat and Tony cooked chicken kebabs, butternut and sweet potato on the braai which we served with a Greek Salad.

Ánother ‘lousy’ day in Africa!

 

 

 

 

 

0

Kruger National Park – Day 14 – Satara

23 November 2017 – Letaba to Satara and The S100.

After yesterday’s 40 degree C heat we woke to cooler conditions today.Β  In fact the mercury dropped by 20 degrees!

We were packed up and ready to roll by 7:00 o’clock.Β  Pat and Tony were to follow after going to reception to find out about getting Pat to a doctor.

The first excitement walked toward us on the tar road.Β  Β Mom, Dad and Little One

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Come on Mom and Dad – keep up!

Then they veered off the road and passed by the car.Β  We got a shot of Mom – or Dad – difficult to tell the sexes apart.

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She seems to be smiling about something.

When we arrived at Satara we got a call from Tony.Β  They were on their way and would set up camp and then head to Skukuza to see the camp doctor.

We set up next to the fence at the North-west side of camp.Β  There were quite a few interesting birds hanging around and posing for their portraits.

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Red-billed Buffalo-weaver

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Burchell’s Starling

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Grey-headed Sparrow

When Pat and TonyΒ  arrived we helped them set up and then went to have breakfast at the restaurant.Β  They managed to get an appointment for 2 o’clock and set off for Skukuza at midday.

Earl and I had a rest and then at 3 pm set off to do a stretch of the S100, turning around and retracing our route so as to be back in camp in time.Β  The drive there produced some common residents.

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My favourite creatures

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Zebs had a dust bath

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A stripe of zebra

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Delighted to have this red-faced mousebird sit still for a second

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This non-breeding shaft-tailed whydah had us guessing for a while

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Red-billed quelea

We hoped to see a lot more as the S100 is famous for seeing both lion and leopard – but not luck there.Β  However, the birding was good.

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A lovely surprise – Trumpeter Hornbill

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Male Red-backed shrike

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Bateleur Female

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Bateleur Male

Seeing the trumpeter hornbill was special for me and I counted that as the highlight of the day.Β  I was in a bit of a complacent dream when suddenly I saw it, just a short distance away, so well camouflaged in the dry grass.Β  “There’s a cheetah!” I called out to The Earl.Β  “Where?” he said.Β  “There,” I pointed.Β  “Where’s there!”Β  he was frustrated.

“Stop!” I yelled.Β  “He’s going to come out in front of the car.”Β  And then he saw it too.

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What a brilliant surprise
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We had him all to ourselves

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The beautiful boy!

He crossed the road and then moved off into the distance.Β  We watched until he disappeared over the ridge.Β  A car approached – just a minute too late.Β  We were the only ones to have seen him!

Pat and Tony were back from the Skukuza by 6:15.Β  Β Pat’s wrist is badly sprained and the doctor strapped it into a brace.Β  Β She is comfortable but may have to have x-rays if the swelling doesn’t go down.

As it was so cool we decided that a stew would be best for dinner tonight. Once again our Master Chef of the Bushveld put our snappy chef and smartspace pots to excellent use and we dined in style once again.

4

Kruger National Park – Day 13

22 November 2017 – Birthday Surprises

I am celebrating my birthday in my most favourite place in the world.Β  Who could ask for a better gift than that!Β  And all my birthday wishes came true today.Β  The creatures of the Kruger National Park popped up to say Hi.

I had no plans to celebrate in any way – just being here was enough for me.Β  But my darling husband arranged for us to make a breakfast stop at Mopani Rest Camp because they have such a lovely restaurant overlooking the Luluvu River.Β  Letaba’s restaurant is closed and there is only The Rustic Kitchen to replace it.Β  Β This meant quite a long drive there but we had some lovely sightings and every time something interesting happened, Pat said, “Happy Birthday, Helen!”

And it did seem as if though some of the animals knew it was my special day.Β  A giraffe crossed the road, stopped and looked right at me ane I believe sent me a birthay greeting.

 

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And so did this buffalo!

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Who’s the birthday girl then?

This warthog provided some amusing entertainment

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Mud, glorious mud

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I need a good scratch

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Oh Hi, didn’t see you there – Happy Birthday

Birding is our passion and today we saw some lovely specials

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Marsh Sandpiper

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White-Crested Helmet-Shrike

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Red-billed Ox-peckers on a buffalo’s back

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Namaqua Dove

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Kori Bustard

My birthday breakfast was fantastic.Β  What a view we had and what lovely birds we saw from the deck.

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The deck at the Mopani Restaurant

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A really scrumptious breakfast

The temperature got up to 40 degrees C today but we were relatively cool in our airconditioned vehicle.Β  However, opening the windows to take photographs let in the hot air and by the time we got back to Letaba we were all ready for a swim.

In the pool I chatted to an older lady who was such an inspiration.Β  She and her hubby were still travelling and having lovley holidays together.Β  Β Then she went out and the next thing I knew she’d slipped and fallen. I leapt out of the pool to see how she was.Β  How amazing was her attitude. “I’m fine,”Β  she said, “It’s just my dignity that’s damaged!”Β  There were two young men immediately on the scene and her husband said, “Don’t pull her up by her arms.”Β  He put a towel under her arms and then said,Β  “Pull her up using the towel.”Β  It worked perfectly and she was absolutely fine.

I went in for a little longer and then we all got out and would you believe – Pat slipped and landed flat on her back hitting her hand hard as she fell.Β  Oh horror!Β  Β We used the towel trick to get her up too.Β  Β Unfortunately her hand was really hurt.Β  Back at camp we iced it and I put an ice-pack in the freezer that she could use in the night.Β  Β Earl strapped her up as best he could and she insisted that she would be fine.Β  (I am writing this two days later so I can report that she went to Skukuza the next day to consult a doctor and is now in a brace and on medication for the pain.Β  Β If the swelling does not go down she will have to have x-rays but right now she is comfortable.)

Without my noticing, The Earl slipped into the park shop at Mopani and bought a bottle of champagne which he chilled in the car fridge.Β  So when we were about to pour our sundowners out came the champers to celebrate my 65th birthday!

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Cheers!Β  Β ( I’m sure my sister approves)

The Earl refused to let anybody help with the preparation of my celebratory meal tonight and presented us with a Master Chef quality chicken dish.Β  It was to die for.

 

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Enjoying my dinner in the bush

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Pat with injured wrist on ice managed with one hand

Another African day under the belt!

 

 

1

Kruger National Park – Day 11

20 November 2017 Letaba to Olifants

Once again it wasΒ  very hotΒ  in the Kruger National Park today.Β  We are caravanning/tenting at Letaba Camp and are so grateful for the shady trees.Β Β  It is not difficult to get up at 5 in the morning here.Β  Natures alarm rouses you with the cheerful dawn chorus of the birds.

By 6:15 we left to drive along the Letaba River to Olifants Camp where we had breakfast.Β Β Β  When The Earl and I used to stay in the chalets, Olifant’s was our favourite camp.Β  They don’t have camping facilities so we’re not staying there this time round.

We had a stunning time there and back, as the birding was fantastic.Β  What fun we had watching their antics and debating what species we were observing.Β  Although we’re not the type of birders that chase after rare birds to get our tick list up, we do keep holiday lists and try to see as many species as The Kruger will show us.Β  Today we did pretty well.

Scenes like these never fail to give one a thrill.

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Along the way there are many little ‘omrits’ or loops that take you closer to the river so you can get a better view.Β  There you can stop and enjoy the birds.Β  At our first omrit we heard the Diederick Cuckoo.Β  He tends to hide among the foliage of the trees so when he posed in the open for us, we were thrilled.

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Diederick’s Cuckoo

We also got this beautiful kingfisher

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Brown-hooded Kingfisher

The small creatures of the bushveld are just as exciting as the larger predators.Β  Seeing two scrub hares was a real highlight as they’re shy and not often seen.

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Scrub Hare

In the shallows of the river there was a great deal of activity.

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Great Egret

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Yellow-billed stork and Egyptian Goose were wondering what all the fuss was about

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What a handsome fellow is the Saddle-billed Stork

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As we left our omrit to get back onto the road again we got an enormous scare when we found this chap blocking the road.Β  Luckily there was another track that bypassed him.

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The leaves are yummy and I’m not moving til I’m done,

You’d be surprised how hungry intense birding can making you.Β  Our many stops to see the feathered friends delayed our breakfast time and we were starving by the time we reached Olifants.Β  The Rustic Kitchen is set up there too. It is at the lookout point which is just the most stunning venue.Β  Β Hopefully, they will be there for a very long time!

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view from The Rustic Kitchen

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There was a treeful of Marico Sunbirds just outside the entrance to the old restaurant.

Our return trip was even more enjoyable than our trip there.Β  We went to the low-level bridge across the Olifant’s River and didn’t want to leave as there was so much activity to watch.Β  Β The highlight was a green-backed heron that kept hiding behind the rocks but then eventually emerged and showed us how to catch your own breakfast.

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Wood Sandpiper

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Reed Comorant

 

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He caught a fish

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Finally the green-backed heron gave us a show

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The Grey Heron doesn’t mind showing himself to the world

We were very happy with our mornings sightings and returned to camp for or midday rest.Β  We went out again for a short drive to Matambeni hide and were back by 6:15Β  These were the best photographs I could get.

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Terrapins sunning themselves on a lovely flat rock

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There were many crocodiles and we watched them swimming slyly through the water before some decided to slither up onto dry ground.Β 

Pat and Tony were the designated cooks tonight and they made us a delicious beef stir-fry on their skottel.Β  Who would believe you could eat so well in the middle of the African Bushveld.

 

 

 

 

1

Kruger National Park – Day 10

19 November 2017 – Shingwedzi to Letaba

By 6:30 we were packed and ready to leave.Β  Letaba is 108km from Shingwedzi so we planned to take a break at Mopani and have breakfast at the restaurant.

Once again with caravan in tow we stuck to the tar road and only stopped a few times to take photos of interesting creatures.

The much maligned hyena is considered to be a cowardly and nasty character and features as the ‘baddy’ in many folklore and children’s stories.Β  In fact these creatures areΒ  not just scavengers but efficient and powerful predators.Β  Β Spotted hyenas liveΒ in structured groups.Β  A group of hyenas is called a clan of hyenas.Β Β Β Did you know that the females rank higher than the males and an alpha female leads the clan. They whole clan helps to raise the young.Β  Β When you get to know them you just can’t help loving them and that’s why we were thrilled to find three lying on the side of the road this morning.

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It was a tough night, please let me sleep

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Oooh I’m so comfortable here

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What’s going on – why did you wake me!

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Alright I’ll smile for the photo

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Now I’m going to find a quieter, shadier spot to sleep!

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What do you mean, I must come with you?

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Oh, alright then, I’m coming!

We left the sleepy things in peace and moved on toward Mopani but not before stopping for to get a photograph of the most magnificent eagle in The Park.

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The proud Martial Eagle

We’ve become accustomed to road blocks too and patiently waited for these wild cows cross over.

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This is our road and we’ll take our time if we want to.

The view of the river below the restaurant was as stunning as always but today we saw an osprey in a tree – too distant for a photo but nevertheless great to see.Β  These are some of the other birds we managed to photograph

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White-faced ducks

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African Jacana

These gorgeous girls stared at us before we arrived at Letaba.

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Female Waterbuck

It was really hot when we arrived in Letaba.Β  We drove around the shady camp looking for a good spot to set up, met another Gecko owner from Somerset West, chatted to them and then while we were filling our water tanks,Β  someone whom I recognised walked by and made a jokey comment about caravanning.Β  He and his wife were tenting nearby.Β  After chatting a while we discovered that we’d stayed a their B&B a few years ago.Β  Hugh had organised a bird guide for us. It was an awesome trip.Β  Β Today he showed us where to find the Scops Owls.

We found a suitable campsite and unhitched but we did not set up until a little later when it was cooler.Β  And do you know what?Β  Β The Earl put up the canopy almost single handedly.Β  All I had to do was help with one pole and the ground sheet.Β  He now has a system that really works for him.Β  And I managed to push up the roof all by myself!

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Entrance to Letaba Rest Camp

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Scops Owl

As we are staying here for four nights we decided not to go on a game drive this afternoon.Β  Β Instead we took some down time to just chill in camp.

Later in the afternoon I saw a fellow camper pointing his camera into a tree so I asked what he was photographing.Β  This is what he pointed out to me.

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A Bushbaby!

 

The temperature got up to over 35 today and the evening was still hot.Β  We kept the lights off as much as possible so that the insects didn’t bother us and The Earl cooked us a delicious chicken curry and thus ended another perfect day in Africa.

5

Kruger National Park – Day 9

18 November 2017 – Shingwedzi

This morning while we waited for Pat and Tony to finish packing up their tent, and before we said farewell to Punda Maria, Earl and I Β paid one last visit to the hide.Β  This is the only camp in The Park that has a hide and a lit waterhole and it is frequently visited by many animals.Β  Elephants were already there and we watched them finish their ablutions and take on some refreshing liquid before they lumbered off into the bush.Β  It was quiet for a few minutes and then we heard loud and excited trumpeting and another herd came racing down to the water.Β  It was as if the little ones were calling – Mommy, I can’t wait to get into the water, please can we run ahead.

 

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It was awesome and we would have lingered longer but it was time to head to Shingwedzi.Β  Earl quickly helped with the tent packing up and then we set off separately.Β Β  The only disadvantage of towing a caravan is that you can’t stop suddenly, nor do all the reversing and manoeuvring at a sighting as you would like to. Also there is always the fear that you’ll be confronted by an oncoming elephant!Β Β  So we took the direct tar road and only stopped when we could.Β  Β We did manage to have some lovely sightings but once we got to Shingwedzi, we set up quickly, had a bit of a rest and then went to the restaurant for lunch.Β  Pat and Tony met us there. They had taken the river road and had lingered over bird and animal sightings.

All the usual patron of the Kruger Restaurant were about – elephant, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest and zebra so when we saw something a little out of the ordinary it peaked our interest.Β  This shy creature was kind enough to stop to have his portrait taken.

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Sharpes Grysbok

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Another large herd of buffalo

We checked in at Shingwedzi at around 10:30 and quickly found a lovely site next to the fence and close to the ablution block.Β  We had some feathered hosts welcome us.Β  The red-billed woodhoopoes were quite vocal but seemed in a hurry to be somewhere else and didn’t stop to chat.Β  Mrs Burchell, hower, asked if had any crumbs for her.Β  No – sorry we don’t eat bread.

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Burchell’s starlingΒ 

The arrow-marked babblers are always busy but blurted out their greetings as they flew from tree to tree.

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Arrow-marked babblerΒ 

After lunch P&T went to set up camp at ShingwedziΒ  while The Earl and I did the river route which was very productive.Β  Β The Mopani Diner was open and the patrons were helping themselves to their offerings.

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Baboon feeding on Mopani leaves

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I am safe here with my mommy

It was very hot and most of the birds were napping in the cool of the foliage. It was later in the afternoon when we started to spot a few as they emerged from hiding.Β  Β This lovely raptor was hoping there would be a slithering reptile on the menu.

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Brown Snake-eagle

Sometimes you have to take the kids out to eat too.Β  Mom is trying to teach this youngster that he must eat by himself now.IMG_5414

The next feathered diner we met is a new one for us.

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White-throated Robin-chat

At the same cafe, skulking in the foliage we found an old friend.

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Long-billed Crombec

Some of the residents prefer to eat ‘seafood’Β  In this case, actually, it’s river-food. There were Egyptian Geese, Grey Herons, three-banded plovers and other waterbirds checking out the menu but our favourite was this lovely chap.

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Yellow-billed Stork

I have hundreds of giraffe photographs as I just love these stunning creatures.Β  I couldn’t resist taking more today.

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We are only at Shingwedzi for one night.Β  We weren’t very hungry after our lunch at the restaurant so it was well after sunset when we braaied.Β  Β  A honey-badger entered the campsite and tried to steal from the humans and a hyena passed by on the other side of the fence.Β  Hopefully he never finds his way inside.

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Sunset at Shingwedzi

Tomorrow we head to Letaba for four nights.

 

 

 

 

 

1

Kruger National Park – Day 7

16 November 2017

We were all up by 5 am this morning and after packing a picnic brunch we set off to Pafuri Picnic Site and Crook’s Corner which are the places for keen bird watchers to visit.Β  The route is so pretty as it winds through Mopane woodland with some loops to waterholes and then there are areas where taller trees like the Fever Tree appear as well as quite a few Baobab trees.Β  The different shades of green are also frequently broken but a splash of colour from the indigenous flowers that pop up every now and then.

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Lovely Kruger Trees

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Baobab Tree

Having an extra pair of eyes is such a help in the park and sharing the experiences with people who are as passionate and appreciative of Nature as you are also makes a visit to a game reserve so much more rewarding.Β Β  Also when you’re going through those times where you wonder whether the creatures have packed up and gone on vacation you can chat and reminisce on past trips done together or relate stories about trips done separately.Β Β  There was a lot ofΒ  debating on what bird that was, reminiscing, fun and laughter in our car today!

It was cooler today and we enjoyed not having to deal with the fatiguing heat. The creatures seemed to be happier in the cooler conditions too and we were privileged to have some lovely sightings.

Birds of Prey are always exciting but these birds are difficult to photograph when they sit up too high on a tree, are too far away or the light is wrong.Β  We all had to get our eye in to help identify these tricky raptors.Β  The first one of the day stimulated a great deal of debate but we finally agreed that it was a Lesser Spotted Eagle.Β  (Heather and other experts out there who might read this – please correct any errors in our diagnoses.)

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Would you believe that one of the most common birds in the park had us guessing for a few minutes until it dawned on me after not seeing one for three years that it was the female Red-Backed Shrike!

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Almost as pretty as her mate

It was great to see a black-crowned tchagra

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A beautiful male kudu with his magnificent antlers

At one point on our trip we found an abandoned antbear hole and observed some interesting bird activity.Β  There were a lot of flying insects around and they were having the time of their lives feeding in that spot.Β  Β Here are but a few of the species we saw.

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Blue Waxbill

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Violet-backed Starling (Plum coloured Starling)

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White-fronted Bee-eater

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Red-billed quellea

Other birds that we were thrilled to find and get photographs of on our drive were the following.

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The Woodland Kingfisher – His call is iconic in The Kruger National Park

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The Go Away Bird (Grey Lourie)

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Crested Barbet

It’s the unexpected little things that make a drive in The Park interesting and we get just as much joy out of them as seeing any of The Big Five.

“What’s that bunny doing in the tree?”Β  Β Well he might look like a rabbit but actually he is a tree hyrax and more closely related to an elephant – and No elephants don’t climb trees either.Β  Β A cousin of the tree hyrax is the more common rock hyrax.Β  The tree dassie has four toes on each of his front feet and three on each of his back feet.Β  They have rounded nails and rubbery soles to help them climb trees.

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Isn’t this the cutest little tree dassie you ever could see!

We got out on the bridge overlooking the beautiful Luvuvhu River.Β Β IMG_4879

As we enjoyed the breathtaking view and observed some distant waterbirds Tony alerted us to a prehistoric looking creature below.

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A Water Monitor

We stopped for brunch at Pafuri Picnic Site.Β  Some Nyala Females decided to join us.

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There were some cheeky monkeys about too.Β  But I just love them

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Monkey with baby

We returned to camp and had a rest and then went out again for a short time.Β  We saw more elephants, zebra and birds.Β  Β The sunset this evening was stunning.

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For supper we roasted a chicken in the electric Romosca Pot. I cooked a mix of veggies in the smart space pan on theΒ  Snappy Chef.Β  Β It all worked beautifully and we enjoyed chicken with a crispy skin and delicious veggies.Β  Another Fabulous Day in Africa.

 

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2

The Kruger National Park – Day 6

15 November 2017 – Punda Maria

Today we took our leave of Shingwedzi and set off to Punda Maria.Β Β  It’s a distance of 70 km.Β  The packing up process went off with hardly a hitch – it gets easier every time – and we were off by 7:30.

 

It was a clear, hot morning and soon the temperature hit 32 degrees C.Β  Our first creature today was a buffalo.Β  He had a yellow-billed oxpecker grooming him.

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We also found some ground hornbills – this time walking on the grounds.Β  There were two adults and a juvenile.

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It’s always fun to see zebra and today they were in a frolicking mood.

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What a delight to come across a huge herd of buffalo under the trees.

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Don’t you just love the waterbuck?Β  We have seen so many on this trip in Kruger.Β Β  Their bottoms sport a white circle that resembles a target!Β Β  This serves as a following signal so that when they run through the bush those behind can see the white ahead andΒ  prevent them from becoming separated.

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We arrived at Punda Maria before 10 am and went straight to the campsite.

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We found a suitable site and unhitched the caravan.Β  We have a perfect view of the waterhole on theΒ  other side of the fence.Β  There is also a hide where one can sit and watch whatever comes to drink.

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The Earl enjoying a cup of coffee while he watches elephants from the comfort of his camp chair

I went to reception to check in and when I returned The Earl had started setting up.Β  With just a tiny bit of help from me the rest of the canopy was up within 20 minutes.Β Β  We’d forgotten to fill the tanks with water but I located a staff member and asked is we could borrow the camp hose.Β  Not a problem.Β  The Earl joined it to his and the tanks were soon filled.

Now all we had to do was relax and wait for our friends Tony and Pat to join us later in the morning.Β  Earl had a nap and I sorted photos in cool of the caravan aircon!

Pat and Tony arrived at lunch time just as thunder and lightning warned that it would soon rain.Β  Some young neighbouring campers did not hesitate to step in and help to get the job done quickly before the heavens opened.Β  Then we sat under our canopy to have a drink and a snack.Β  The rain didn’t last too long but the thunder and lightning continued. At 3:30 we set off on an afternoon drive and although there was some rain we had a very productive afternoon.Β  The rain caused the temperature to drop to 22 degrees C which was a welcome relief.

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Young Male Kudu pulling faces – was he enjoying his grooming?

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Red-billed oxpecker doing the grooming.

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There were plenty of elephants about

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Elephants can hide – this one scared us with his sudden appearance

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Yellow-billed Hornbill

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The rain prevented good photography

In the evening we had a braai and were in bed by 9.

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Fortunately the rain held off

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What a scrumptious meal of steak, chops, boerewors, spinach, sweet potato and salad.

 

2

Kruger National Park – Day 4

13 November 2017 – Shingwedzi

I anticipated the mood of The Earl this morning.Β  The caravan is still new!Β  We have had one setting up session and now the first packing up session was about to occur!Β  There was bound to be trouble!Β Β  We decided last night not to rush things and not to leave at sparrow’s fart!Β  Instead we had a leisurely breakfast and then started to pack.Β  Yes I did have to keep him calm and constantly remind him that it would all work out in the end but it went comparatively well.Β  Perhaps those calming drops I gave him did the trick because the set up at Shingwedzi went fairly well too!Β  Hopefully by the end of this month long trip we will have the anxiety attacks under control.

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The Earl cooking a delicious breakfast

The trip here went smoothly too.Β  There were plenty of elephants about but none confronted the caravan so there was no need for His Lordship to panic.

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We saw lots of buffalo too and as we neared Shingwedzi there was a lot to see in the river bed.

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Elephants for Africa

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And Buffalo too

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Bufflalo love to wallow in puddles and they don’t mind sharing with a warthog

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One of our cousins hiding among the Mopane leaves

We chose a campsite next to the fence and near the swimming pool but far from the ablution block.Β  It I shady and there is a constant sound of birdsong.Β Β  Squirrels are going to be a problem!Β  They’ve already been here looking for handouts.Β Β  Not happening my furry friends!Β  We have also been warned to watch out for monkeys and baboons.

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Bennet’s Woodpecker seen in the camp

Set up went really well and we were done with hardly a hiccup within half an hour.Β  I went in search of the laundry and was delighted to find two coin operated washing machines and dryers!Β  It was wort the R10 for each to get the washing done in a jiffy.

After we were done with setting up and laundry chores we took a drive to Red Rocks.Β  Sightings were slow but we did get some good birds, the highlights being the white-fronted bee-eater catching bees!

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Back in camp The Earl cooked us a delicious curry in our Smart Space Frying Pan.Β Β  A honey-badger came to visit but we didn’t manage to get a photograph.

5

Kruger National Park Day 1

10 NovemberΒ  2017 – Tsendze

We left Haenertzburg, with new caravan in tow at 8:30 this morning. We stopped at Tzaneen Lifestyle Centre for breakfast and to do some last minute shopping and then we were finally off to my most favourite place in the world – The Kruger National Park.

When I saw the familiar road sign indicating the direction of the park I really started to get excited.Β  Two and half hours later we were there – Phalaborwa Gate welcomed us and check in was quick and smooth.

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Our Home on Wheels

Once on the road to Mopani 77 km further on I breathed in the sweet air of the bushveld and sat back to enjoy the three hour ride.Β  Yes – that’s how long you take to travel distances in the park as the speed limit is 40km on dirt and 50km on tar – but you hardly ever go that fast as you travel slowly while searching the bush for life.

And what do you think our first mammal was?Β  No not an impala which is the most common creature in the park

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It was an elephant!

The impala, of course, Β did appear as did many zebra and as we Β travelling near the river there were lots of buffalo too.

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Very common, but very pretty

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Mommy and Baby

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Who do you think you’re looking at!

At the bridge we spotted a pied kingfisher looking for lunch while further up the river a herd of elephants crossed over.Β Β  Water buck were about too.

Sometimes the ride becomes quiet and for a while you don’t see anything and then just when you’re about to fall asleep with boredom something crops up to excite you.Β  Today a shape appeared at the side of the road and I yelled out to the Earl to slow down.

β€œWhat?” he said

β€œA puppy,” I squealed

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and there al by itself lay the tiniest hyena cub you could ever wish to see.

β€œWhere is your mommy?”  I asked him and he just stared sleepily atΒ  me.

β€œHey!Β  Here she is on my side!” noticed the earl after 3 whole minutes ofΒ  looking through my window.

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And sure enough there was mom with another little pup – just off the road.

Hyenas tend to make their dens in culverts under the road so they surely must have had one just there.

Korhaans often appear and sometimes very photogenic.

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But today the fronds of grass kept preventing me from getting good shots.

A tortoise crossed our path

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After checking in at Mopani Camp – there’s no check in office at Tsenze Rustic Camp 6km from there – we went to the restaurant for a bite to eat.Β  The restaurant overlooks the river and there were many interesting things to watch.

We then made our way Tsendze Rustic Camp where there is no electricity and just two camp attendants ensuring that the campers are happy.Β  The facilities are in pristine condition, it is quiet and the camp is full of birdlife – it’s really back to nature.Β Β  When you enter and leave you have to open and close the gate, looking around for dangerous wildlife as you do so!Β  Β As we drove around looking for campsite number 22 we spotted the barred owlet – this is really a special find.

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Then began the set up process.Β  Now remember this was the first time with the new caravan.Β  And The Earl suffers from anxiety and I am not the most patient psychiatric nurse.Β Β  I steeled myself for half an hour of stress and panic.Β  We unpacked to perfectly colour labelled tent poles and studied the perfectly clear diagram.Β  It was all very straightforward but The Earl wanted to beat the clock – and every time he encountered a problem like forgetting where he put the mallet his stress levels rose.Β  At least 10 times I had to remind him to breath and take it slowly. “It will all come together in the fullness of time.”Β  And of course it did and it was so much easier than our previous caravan’s set-up process!

We spent the rest of the afternoon sorting out where we would put things while in camp so that we didn’t have to do too much digging into bags and boxes.

Then we poured ourselves a drink and went over to chat to the neighbours who coincidently we’d met during check in at Mopani.Β  They are from Louis Trichardt and have a really smart fold out caravan.Β Β  Once it’s set up it is bigger and more luxurious than our one.Β  The bedroom has an island bed.Β  There are three times as many cupboards and they have a lovely seating area inside as well as out.Β Β  TheirΒ  bathroom is also twice the size as ours.Β  But I love our compact little set up and would not swap it now!

The weather has been stunning – overcast but no rain, no wind and it is warm.Β  We had a wonderful braai this evening and were in our brand new king size bed by 9 pm!Β Β  It was too warm for under the duvet so we slept with just a sheet.

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