4

Catching up with the Kokstad Clan – Tala Private Game Reserve

Today dawned sunny and warm. Allan had a golf game planned and Lauren, Shannon, Simon, Grandpa and Granny decided to take a 2 hour trip to Tala Private Game Reserve.  Although the weather was completely different on the other side of the mountain – drizzly and cool – it was a good decision.  I have not been to a game reserve since July last year and was beginning to suffer withdrawal symptoms.

We packed a snack pack and grabbed a quick breakfast of cereal or toast and coffee and set off at 8:30.   Our first encounter was still on the Karg Post road – unusual for this area, our National Bird – The Blue Crane

Blue Cran on the local farmlands

Blue Crane on the local farmlands

Grandpa does not like mist but unfortunately we had a few patches on our journey and this coupled with potholes and stray cattle can be daunting.   It slowed our journey a bit but we still yelled for him to stop when we spotted Ground Hornbill on the side of the busy highway!   He couldn’t because of traffic on his tail but a km later he found a place to turn around and headed back for a poor photo opportunity.   There was a mom, dad and baby but I just managed one, half-decent picture.

The bird that thrilled us all

The bird that thrilled us all

Not even in the park and the adrenalin was pumping.   Of course now we had to turn around again and finally found a farm road to turn into.  The double-cab skidded and slipped uncharacteristically so Earl checked the tires but all was well.  It was probably due to fresh wetness on the road after no rain for a while.

Tala Private Game Reserve is a 3000 hectare wildlife sanctuary hidden in the hills of a quiet farming area not far from Durban and Pietermaritzburg.  It has a habitat of acacia trees, grassland and some wetland which attracts a variety of birdlife and is home to many mammal species too.  What I love about it is that in spite of it being a private game reserve you can self-drive.  Entrance to the park is R60 for the vehicle and then R50 per person.   They have a wonderful restaurant and the food is excellent.  They do not accept cash at all.   You must be prepared to pay with a credit card.  Excellent idea I think!

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Tala Entrance

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Our first stop was the dam just through the entrance.  There were hundreds of Egyptian Geese as well as many other water birds which kept us enthralled for a while.

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Egyptian Geese

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Yellow-billed duck

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Lots of Egyptians about

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This one is having a stretch

 The pond was full of hippos too.

 A Pod of Hippo

A Pod of Hippo

The weather was not the greatest for photography or birdwatching but we still managed to find more than expected.   The wetland areas of course produced lovely opportunities to observe waterbirds.

Spoonbill

Spoonbill

Hamerkop - near a puddle

Hamerkop – near a small roadside pond

Black Crake in pond just vacated by Hamerkop

Black Crake in pond just vacated by Hamerkop

Black-necked heron all puffed up

Black-necked heron all puffed up

There were a few birds of prey, mostly yellow-billed kites flying overhead but it was great to find this little black shouldered kite posing obligingly.

BSK

Black Shouldered Kite

We saw all of the above within the first half hour of arriving in the park. Having only indulged in a very light breakfast we were peckish and decided to have an early lunch before continuing our safari.  As we arrived at the restaurant we saw this wet bird in a tree – and realised it was a yellow-throated longclaw – a lovely sighting for us as we don’t see them often.

Poor photograph of the Yellow-throated Longclaw

Poor photograph of the Yellow-throated Longclaw

The restaurant is really lovely.  We were early so were served promptly and the menu offered a full lunch menu, sandwiches and a good choice for children.   Simon and Shannon had chicken nuggets and chips. Earl enjoyed slivers of beef on Ciabatta, Lauren Chicken and Feta and I had chicken and bacon with a cranberry sauce on Ciabatta.   These sandwiches were around R45 to R55 each.  Served with French Fries they were more than a meal!

Tropical Garden of the Restaurant

The restaurant is nestled in a lush tropical garden

A huge fire created a warm atmosphere on a chilly day

A huge fire created a warm atmosphere on a chilly day

Traditional Meals are on offer

Traditional Meals are on offer and the ambience is definitely African

A good South African Braai is also on the menu

A good South African Braai is also on the menu

After lunch we headed out again determined to find giraffe and Rhino!    It was an adventurous trip as we chose some roads that made us grateful we were in a 4×4.  The kids shrieked half in excitement half in fear when we descended a particularly steep, stony and slippery hill.  We also managed to lose the map somewhere in the car and had to depend on instinct to get us back on track.  Of course Grandpa pretended that we might have to spend the night in the dark searching for a way out which got the kids going again!   While on our meanderings to find the way out of the maze of roads we found kudu, nyala, eland, reedbuck and zebra.   We dipped on the rhino but did get to giraffe but right across the valley and too far for a photograph.   The antelope were also hiding in the bush making photography rather difficult.

Wildebeest were easy to see

Wildebeest were easy to see

Blesbok were around every corner

Blesbok were around every corner

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You find them everywhere but Impala are really beautiful

You find them everywhere but Impala are really beautiful

These stripy chaps were happy to see us.

These stripy chaps were happy to see us.

 

Mom and Dad Ostrich were hiding chicks who evaded a photograph

Mom and Dad Ostrich took up residence outside one of the lodges. They were hiding chicks but we couldn’t get their portrait.

 

We were lucky to find a whole family of Eland

We were lucky to find a whole family of Eland

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For a day trip, we were well pleased with what we found.  But Earl and I stayed at Tala in October 2005 and I have copied my diary entry of that trip below for the interest of those who might consider a similar trip in the future.  Remember prices mentioned are from 8 years ago.

October 2005

 

At Tala Private Game Lodge we stayed at Paperbark Lodge and our room had panoramic views of the grass plains surrounding us.   The lodge is not fenced from the park and the animals are free to come right up close.   The Lodge manageress warned us to be careful if we walked around after dark as hippos come to graze on the lawns and rhino choose to sleep the night in close proximity to humans!    Usually in game parks we search long and hard to find these magnificent creatures but here we could have stepped out and touched 5 that were right outside our window!

Game in the park is plentiful but there are no cats or fierce predators.   There were herds of blesbok, impala, kudu, nyala and eland as well as zebra, giraffe and rhino.   Lauren brought the kids on Sunday morning and we had an exciting game drive with them.  When they arrived Shannon said, “I need to see the animals!.”  Well her “need” was well satisfied.   Hippos were swimming in the dam, we saw a cormorant struggle with an enormous bass before swallowing it whole and turtles were out sunning themselves on a log.   Shannon said she wanted to see a hamerkop and sure enough one obligingly showed itself next to the turtles before flying off into the reeds.

There were lots of zebra about but Shannon wanted to see the long-necked giraffe.  We encouraged her to call them – come on Gerry, Where are you Josephine and believe it or not it worked!   Five minutes after we started the game we came across a small herd of 8 or 9 browsing on the succulent leaves of some tall trees.

At lunch time we went to the main restaurant for a buffet meal.  We only ordered the starters – a variety of soups, salads, smoked salmon, mussels, oysters, pâtés, breads and rolls – but could have as much as we liked.   Together with one bottle of wine it cost R400 for 3 adults!

After lunch the kids left to meet Allan and go back to Kokstad and we had a short nap before going on a game walk with the ranger.   This was a special experience.  The well trained young ranger had a zoology degree and his special interest was birds.   He started birding when he was 10 years old.  Chris came to Tala from Mala Mala in Mpumelanga six months ago and said he was not yet totally familiar with all the KZN birds.  He could have fooled us!  He identified many just by their calls.   It is always interesting to go on guided walks because the rangers give you little titbits of information about many of the things you see.   Chris was no exception and as Earl and I were the only two on the walk we got his undivided attention.

Birds we saw on the weekend were:

Diedrick’s cuckoo

Jacobin Cuckoo

Spoonbill

White-breasted cormorant

Hamerkop

Egyptian Goose

Grey Heron

Darter

Hadeda

Glossy Ibis

Yellow-billed Kite

Fantailed Cisticola

Nedicky

Spotted Prinia

Pied Wagtail

Cape Wagtail

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Red-naped lark

Fiscal Flycatcher

Plum Collared Starling

White-bellied Sunbird

Cape White-eye

Grey-headed Sparrow

Red-shouldered Widow

We did not have supper in the dining room after our extravagant lunch.  Instead the lodge chef prepared us a “snack plate” and served it to us in our room.  Some snack!   It included mushroom and spinach filled filo pockets, sausage rolls, sticky chicken wings, vegetable bread, game biltong and cheese and biscuits!

3

Catching up with the Kokstad Clan – Wattled Crane Cottage

Wattled Crane Cottage is beside a trout fishing dam on a dairy/beef cattle farm belonging to the Raw Family who are friends of Lauren and Allan.  It took us less than an hour to drive to the farm and then another half an hour up the steep dirt road to the dam which is the highest dam in South Africa.  The setting is to die for and we spent two very relaxing days there with Lauren, Allan, Shannon and Simon.

Before we left Shannon and Simon found another use for their trampoline!

Another use for the trampoline

Exercising their creative talents

The scenery in East Griqualand is stunning and the Raw’s farm is in a picturesque setting.

The Farm

The Farmer’s residence nestled among the shady trees

Traditional Huts of the Staff

Traditional Huts of the Staff

Looking down to Wattled Crane Cottage

One of the dams on the farm

Lauren and Allan were up ahead of us and stopped when they spotted the rare birds we were dying to see.  They were across the middle dam but close enough to get good views with our binoculars and even a photographs or two.

The Birds that give the cottage its name

The Birds that give the cottage its name

Wattled Crane in flight

Wattled Crane in flight

Right next to them were their cousins, two beautiful Crowned Cranes which are easier to find.

One of the crowned crane

One of the crowned crane

We have seen Wattled Crane near the cottage before but only at a great distance – this was the first time we managed a half decent photograph so my holiday was complete!  Another bird which I am finding a bit tricky to I.D. but think might be a female Buff-streaked chat.

Buff Streaked Chat Female

Buff Streaked Chat Female

View to the cottage

View to the cottage

As soon as we arrived at the cottage and got unpacked and settled, Simon had to practice his fly-fishing skills.

Following in Grandpa's footsteps

Following in Grandpa’s footsteps

A beautiful sunset

A beautiful sunset

Thursday dawned calm and still and I was the first one up and got coffee on the go and then encouraged the fisherman to take advantage of the weather as the wind tends to spoil things later in the day.

Sunrise on Thursday morning

Sunrise on Thursday morning

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A Little Later

The fishing was successful – all catch and release – but Grandpa was not happy as the son-in-law beat him!  Simon is still learning the art and managed to hook but not pull in a fish.

Trout

Trout

Jumping

Jumping

Got it

Got it

Allan's Big One

Allan’s Big One

Gramps and Simon on the jetty

Gramps and Simon on the jetty

There always has to be a little inconvenience on every holiday – this time it was a flat tire which the guys set about sorting out.

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Thanks Al

It was really flat – those roads have sharp

Although the sun was shining it is chilly at that altitude and i just couldn’t get warm.  I settled down on the couch with a blanket and ‘The Elephant Whisperer’ by Lawrence Anthony on my Kindle.

Gran in chill mode

Gran in chill mode

Allan had to leave after breakfast on Thursday – somebody has to earn the living!   When it warmed up we sat on the stoep, watched the birds and enjoyed the scenery.   When it got colder again the kids amused themselves by making videos on the computer and then entertained us with them.  There were also games in the cottage and lots to read!

It was terribly windy on Friday morning so fishing was out of the question.  We packed up early and made our way back to Kokstad deciding to treat ourselves to a Wimpy breakfast instead of cooking our own!   We are now back at Lauren and Allan’s and the kids have gone down to the river to play.   I think I will download another book onto my Kindle.  The wind is blowing and anything more strenous is just not on my agenda!

Till tomorrow …….

1

Catching up with the Kokstad Clan – Heritage Day

Today is Heritage Day in South Africa.  On Heritage Day we recognise and celebrate the diverse cultural wealth of our country.  Being here in KZN in a rural environment has got me to thinking about what a privilege it is to live in this country in spite of its past atrocities and present problems.   South African has been through many phases – the conquerors have conquered and like all other conquerors in the world realised that dominance is not a route of prosperity.   Tribes have fought against other tribes and nations have battled for possession of a new land.  The people affected are the citizens who have rebelled and trekked and set up new regimes which have had various levels of success and failure.  We are now a rainbow nation of tolerance and yet there are still enormous problems to be overcome.   It is up to us to learn from the past and what I see is a single thread running through the history of our country.  One thing is certain – hard work – only hard work will ensure that the next generation will proper no matter what the political situation is.    Think about it – in the past it is those who got up a did something about their situation who got the most out of their country.  We should not forget the atrocities and the wrongs but we should follow the good examples from those who came before us.  Each culture has something to offer.  South Africa is an amazing country – fabulous scenery, mountains, sea and wildlife and extra specially fantastic people.

Here in rural Kokstad I have noticed that although the people lead a chilled lifestyle they all work very hard.  My daughter has a full time teaching job 10km from where she lives, but it’s cool to have the kids there with her.  She lives in a small house on a big plot, raises calves and keeps horses.  She has an orchard and a vegetable garden.   She is constantly busy but never complains about how stressed she is.  She has a wide circle of friends all who lead rural lifestyles and support each other.  The neighbours are far enough away not to see but the fence has a gate between them for easy access to each other.  Other neighbours are further away but the visit often, swap kids and go off on weekends together.  Social sport plays a huge role in their lives – there’s tennis and golf and Lauren’s favourite – endurance horse riding.  If she rode in Cape Town it would cost more than she could afford – what a heritage, what a lifestyle she and all her friends enjoy.

Before leaving Cape Town, I asked my Grade Ones, “If your granny came to visit you from far away, what would you like her to bring you?” I got a long list of things from ‘Footy Pyjamas” to cool clothes, Action men to Barbie Dolls, Craft Books to pet kittens, puppies, bunnies and hamsters and finally a TRAMPOLINE.   Well I got the cool clothes and some sweeties and when we got to Kokstad we purchased a 10ft trampoline from Game.  What better gift for kids who have the garden to accommodate it.

Dragging th box to the right position

Dragging the box to the right position – Lucy wants to help

The frame is up

The frame is up

Simon concentrating on those screws

Simon concentrating on those screws

Granny gets the first bounce

Granny gets the first bounce

And is soon joined by Shannon and Simon

And is soon joined by Shannon and Simon

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Gran now leaves it to the experts

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Go Shannon

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Oh Boy – this is fun!

On the land on which my daughter lives, a river runs through it.  After bouncing for a bit Shannon and SImon packed a picnic and rode their bikes down to the where the river was shallow.   I walked down a little later to see what they were doing. The brook gurgled, the birds were in full song.  The dogs panted beside me and I eventually found them in the nook of a shady tree building a fort.   Then they went hunting for crabs and frogs.  Simon helped me over the slippery stepping stones giving careful instructions as to where to put my feet without slipping.

No fear of bikes being stolen

No fear of bikes being stolen

Shady nook

Shady nook

Sheeba exploring

Sheeba exploring

Off to find crabs

Off to find crabs

Scary Monster

Scary Monster

A princely frog

A princely frog

After lunch it clouded over a bit and we thought it might rain.  I expressed relief that it didn’t but the family were most disappointed.  “We welcome the rain!’ was their response and they’re very disappointed when it doesn’t come!

Later in the afternoon Lauren and I went for a fairly strenuous walk. We checked on the calves who are now almost cows.   The view was amazing and it was good to get some exercise and air into the lungs.  The dogs enjoyed it too.

The calves

The calves

The View

The View

The wetland

The wetland

Cows in the fields

Cows in the fields

Traditionally on Heritage Day, South Africans braai!    We were no exception.

The Fire

The Fire

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The Braai Masters

We enjoyed braaied chicken, pork rashers, boerewors (farm sausage) and sweet potatoes wrapped in tinfoil and cooked in the coals.   A fab way to end Heritage Day!

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2

On Sunday morning it was such a pleasure to be woken by Simon and Shannon shortly followed by Mom and Dad with steaming cups of coffee.  The weather was crisp and clear and freezing cold!   After a leisurely chat and lovely lie in we finally raised ourselves from bed.   There was a power failure so we decided to treat the family to a Wimpy breakfast just outside the town of Kokstad.   It had a lovely garden with play equipment for the kids.

A rare treat for the Kokstad Kids

A rare treat for the rural grandchildren

Simon expending energy

Simon expending energy

Fun on the climbing wall - Shan in new skinny jeans

Fun on the climbing wall – Shan in new skinny jeans

We took the scenic route home. Instead of going through town so I could get some Kodak moments.

The Pink Church is one of 12 outstation Catholic churches in Kokstad that serves the surrounding community and is situated at the turnoff to Karg’s Post.

Karg's Post turnoff

Karg’s Post turnoff

The Pink Church

The Pink Church

Stuning setting for a church

Stunning setting for a church

We usually visit Kokstad in Summer when the green becomes overwhelming.  In winter there is some relief as the lack of rain means there is a bit of dryness and browner shade around.

Mount Currie

Mount Currie

Mount Fifty

Mount Fifty

Juvenile Jackal Buzzard

Juvenile Jackal Buzzard

Dassie (Rock Hyrax) watching us closely

Dassie (Rock Hyrax) watching us closely

Later that morning we had visitors for tea.  Neil and Rose and their daughter, Margie from next door popped in with the most delicious scones baked by Margie.  

IMG_3054 IMG_3056People in Kokstad are really friendly and nobody stands on ceremony.  Conversation is relaxed and revolves round horses, livestock, farming and family.   It is most refreshing.  Nothing is too much trouble and if you’re in a spot there are a dozen people prepared to help you out.   What a fantastic lifestyle.

We spent the rest of the day reading, relaxing and enjoying the sunshine.   Grandpa did some repairs for Lauren and the electric gate now works!

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Great way to mow the lawn

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The Rural Home

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Enjoying the dogs

I managed to finish reading The Unlikely Journey of Harold Fry on my Kindle before supper.   After a delicious supper of chicken casserole we watched a moving and then it was bed!

This morning my cell rang out loudly at 7 a.m. causing me to rouse myself quickly.  It was Barbara confirming plans for our visit to Brooklyn Farm later on.   When our children were growing up we spent many Christmas holidays with Barbara and Andrew and their five children whose ages blended perfectly with our three.   We are now the older generation watching our children do exactly what we did a generation ago!     Now, though, we stay with Lauren and only get to spend a day or two with them unless we arrange to go away together which we have done before and is definitely on the agenda for the future!

First we had to shop for our two day stay in the mountains so Earl and I set off early and got all the needed provisions.   En route we spotted this lovely Jackal Buzzard enjoying the morning sun.

Jackal Buzzard catching the rays

Jackal Buzzard catching the rays

We met Birgitta and the boys at the bridge.  They were on their way home from a long bike ride.  “They think they’re playing in the river – but actually I’m recovering form the ride!”  I know the feeling having done many cycles with my grandsons back home.

The MacKenzie boys cycling up the steep hill on their tiny mountain bikes

The MacKenzie boys cycling up the steep hill on their tiny mountain bikes

We enjoyed tea on the stoep but when the sun became too hot we moved into the shade of the oak tree.   The garden was abuzz with birds and we enjoyed watching them come to the feeding tables and birdbath.

Tea on the stoep

Tea on the stoep

A shady spot

A shady spot

Barbara instructing the gardener

Barbara instructing the gardener

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A duck visits the ‘bath’

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Oriole

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Grey-headed sparrow

Barbara and Andrew’s grandsons came over after their ride and joined Simon in the sandpit.

Boys playing in the sand

Boys playing in the sand

Lunch was delicious and brought back happy memories of the old farm holidays.   The Mackenzies are now in a small cottage while their son and his family occupy the old farmhouse.

Andrew carves the roast

Andrew carves the roast

Here are some farm scenes

The Dairy Herd

The Dairy Herd

The tractor trudging along

The tractor trudging along

After lunch Earl took the boys to the dam to try their luck at some bass fishing and were gone for some time.  I heard later that there was a lot of fun but no fish caught!

Ann came over for tea with three-year-old Caitlyn and 18-month old James.   What gorgeous children.

Catilyn and Heather's Fatso who is now 30 years old - out girls used to ride her

Catilyn on Fatso who is now 30 years old – out girls used to ride her

James got the courage to join his sister

James got the courage to join his sister

The kids were intrigued by the ducklings

The kids were intrigued by the ducklings

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Sticking close to mom

Caitlyn fascinated by a ladybug

Caitlyn fascinated by a ladybug

The boys returned tired and happy after their fishing trip and it was time to go.  The weather has been kind and we very much enjoyed soaking up the warmth after our cold, wet, Cape winter.

0

Catching up with the Kokstad Clan

Schools broke on Friday and I was looking forward to having a long free afternoon to pack and organise myself for departure to KZN instead of my usual trick of going directly to the airport from school.   However, there was something I had to do before I could settle down to the packing.  I left school at 12:30 after setting it up for the new term and then as I have been suffering from an infection which has left me feeling rather low I went to Constantiaberg for a bladder and kidney scan just to make sure all is in order.  Phew – yes everything is fine and I just need to get over myself!

The best way to do this is to get out there and have a holiday!   Saturday morning found us packed and ready for Lisa to take us to Cape Town International and we were in the air at 10:30 a.m.   The sun was trying hard to shine and we took off in only slightly overcast conditions.  Sitting in the second row of Mango was delightful with Earl at the window disturbing my reading by pointing out the fabulous landscape below.  I am not usually a happy flyer but this year has seen me in the air several times and hey – I’m now quite blasé about the whole affair – didn’t even listen to the safety instructions – I now know to grab the flippin’ mask before helping the next guy and kick off the heels to go down the slippery slip after following the well-lit arrows to the exit. And who cares anyway – if we crash I hope it’s over in a flash – I don’t want to be floating in the icy ocean below!

Durban did not put on its best face for us – temperature – same as Cape Town and raining too!  Come on KZN – we need some cheering up!  Too long have we suffered the winter blues back home – it has been the longest, coldest and wettest winter we’ve had since 2004!

Our hire car is a Toyota D4D Double Cab  much like the one Earl used to drive so he is a happy chappy.   We have booked to go to Wattle Crane Cottage high in the mountains and this requires a 4X4 – more about that later.

Ahhh KwaZulu Natal – how different to the Western Cape. It’s the colour that is the first thing to strike you – different shades of green and more green.  The mountains are green, the fields are green unlike the Cape   KZN is lush and sub tropical – The Cape is mild and Mediterranean.   The further away from Cosmopolitan Cape Town you go the more you feel that you are truly in Africa.   We travel along the South Coast for a while and stop to buy some fruit from the roadside informal traders.   I have never seen such enormous avocado pears.  The traders bring barrows full of produce and sit in front of their huts and sell to the passing motorists.

Informal Trader on the side of the highway

Informal Zulu Trader on the side of the highway

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Hut with a view

Hut with a view

When we turn inland and travel through a part of the Eastern Cape to get to Kokstad at the foot of the Drakensburg Mountains.  The roads can be treacherous to travel along because of potholes and livestock who think the road is there for them.  Today the condition of the road is mainly good – maintenance has taken place but the livestock are there.

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Along the way the fruit sellers are there but also some enterprising people who braai mielies on an open fire and provide sustenance for hungry locals and travellers alike.   I wanted to take a photograph but the lady shouted and put her umbrella in front of her and the person next to her sent her child across with the wares so you can just make out the fire of the one and shy brolly of the other in the background.

Not for us but thank for the photograph

Not for us but thanks for the photograph

We made it to Kaag’s Post at exactly 4 o’clock precisely according to Earl”s planning which gives him great satisfaction.

A fork tailed drongo greets us at the bridge

A fork tailed drongo greets us at the bridge

Then flies into the willows

Then flies into the willows

The wild peach trees offer some welcome colour to the eternal green of KZN

The wild peach trees offer some welcome colour to the eternal green of KZN

Simon was hiding when we arrived but the dogs and Lauren were there with the dogs and Shannon and Alan not far behind.  It’s wonderful to be with them again. Shan has grown in the seven months since seeing her last and  she’s now almost as tall as me.    Good thing I decided to get the 12-13 jeans and t-shirt I’ve brought her!

Lauren and the dogs

Lauren and the dogs

Simon was finally persuaded to come out of hiding and had a rough and tumble with his grandfather.

Rough and tumble with Grandpa

Rough and tumble with Grandpa

The Bakers came for supper and we enjoyed a wonderful Weber of pork and chicken and the excellent company of kids’ best friends!   More – much more to follow.

0

Women’s Day Weekend in Struisbaai – Part One

After a rainy and cold week we find ourselves here in Struisbaai once again.   A text from our rental agent warned us that there might be road closures due to the recent heavy rains and flooding.  Really?  We didn’t give it too much thought and set off with Tony and Sharon at about 3:30 yesterday afternoon.  “I’d better just phone and check,” I said.   “It would be a pity to get to Bredasdorp only to find that road closed.”   Sure enough, we were warned that only twin cabs and 4X4s were able to make it through.  “Huh?”   No problem for us as fortunately as we drive a Fortuner!  I still didn’t believe that it could be that bad but it was!   There was a virtual river running across the road halfway between Bredasdorp and Struisbaai.

Will the big truck get through  - Yes indeed so we should too.

Will the big truck get through – Yes indeed so we should too.

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Fellow travellers forging the river

It was dark and cold when we reached our house and we put on the gas heater the minute we’d unpacked!    Then after a glass of wine and chat we set off to Agulhas to seek a place to have dinner.  To our horror Seagulls was closed – apparently taking advantage of the quiet season to get away for their annual holiday.  So we settled for Zuidste Kaap Restaurant (Most Southern Cape Restaurant) which had a fire in a huge hearth and very good food.  (The fire did very little to warm the place though)  Earl had Eisbein and Sharon and I had Vegetarian Pasta and Tony Rainbow Pasta.   All excellent.

We slept snugly and rose this morning to a unique “Early” breakfast. Nobody else can possibly compete with whatever it is he does to make this the most delicious breakfast in the world.  (Thanks my darling)

We then packed up and took ourselves off to De Hoop Nature Reserve – a very special place about an hour or so away.   The results of the recent rains were evident everywhere and had attracted a variety of waterbirds not usually seen in the area.

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A tranquil scene on a temporary lake

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Indulging in a morning preen

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Aren’t we beautiful

From Bredasdorp we take the Swellendam Road and then 6km out of Bredasdorp we take the dirt road to Malgas travelling about 40 km before turning right to De Hoop.  En route, we stop of course, to observe birds and take scenic photographs.

Now we know why it is so cold - Snow on the Caledon Mountains!

Now we know why it is so cold – Snow on the Caledon Mountains!

A Patchwork of colour with farmhouse in background

A Patchwork of colour with farmhouse in background

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A Grey Heron with an identity crisis – He is impersonating a swan

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Capped Wheatear posing obligingly

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Flood water creating a lovely scene

Mommy sheep with twins

Mommy sheep with twins

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Spurwinged Goose, Two Cape Shovellers and A Yellow-billed Duck

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The proteas in the park were in full bloom

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Although it was still chilly we the sun was shiny and there was good light and after the rain everything looked bright and clear.  The birds and animals in the park clearly thought today was the day to make an appearance and we found them everywhere. All were enjoying the sunshine and the abundance of water.

De Hoop Nature Reserve is 34 000 ha in size and the largest natural area managed by Cape Nature.  It is a good place to go if you enjoy hiking, cycling, bird watching and of course whale watching.

It forms part of the world’s smallest and most threatened plant Kingdom – the Cape Floral Kingdom. Fynbos is the dominant vegetation group. The Bredasdorp / Agulhas and Infanta area has an estimated 1500 plant species of the approximately 9 000 species found in the Cape Floristic Region.  We live in a beautiful part of the world and have such interesting flora and fauna.  What a privilege to have such easy access to it.  Not only can we see the rare bontebok and other mammal species here but it is adjacent to the De Hoop Marine Reserve too and at Koppie Alleen there is an opportunity to see whales and other marine life too.

Cape Bulbul catching some rays

Cape Bulbul catching some rays

Common Fiscal

Common Fiscal

Smart Ostrich

Ostriches out and about

Zebra/Kwagga

Cape Mountain Zebra

Large Eland Male

Male and Female Eland

Bontebok

Bontebok

Our close cousins

Our close cousins

Bokmakierie

Bokmakierie

We have often dined at the restaurant in the park and can highly recommend it.  Sharon and I had traditional South African fare in the form of Bobotie and Tony and Earl indulged in Mussel Chowder.

The Four of us Indulging in good South African food

The Four of Us Indulging in Good South African Food

This cheeky chap demanded crumbs but we declined to indulge him.

Cape Francolin

Cape Francolin

The trees were full of noisy birds eating berries

Cape Bulbul

Cape Bulbul

Mousebird

Mousebird

After lunch we drove to Koppie Alleen to see if we could spot a whale or two.  We were not disappointed.  There were dozens of Southern Right Whales in the bay which were seen clearly with the aid of our binoculars.    It was bitterly cold on the dunes so we didn’t spend too much time before we were driven back to the warmth of our vehicle.

Koppie Alleen

Koppie Alleen

Whale Watching

Whale Watching

The Bay was full of them

The Bay was full of Southern Right Whales

On our way out the baboons once again amused us.

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Daddy Baboon

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Mommy and Baby

After a great day out we returned to our cosy cottage and Chef Earl produced a wonderful braai – chicken wings on sticks, skilpaaidjies (not real tortoises honestly – just liver wrapped in sheep fat) lamb chops, vegetables in foil and  Sharon’s Coleslaw.   To finish a stunning lemon meringue from Checkers’ Bakery.

The Indoor Braai

The Indoor Braai

Yum!

Yum!

1

An Adventure Abroad – Sunday at Home

Tonight’s blog will be a short one.  There was no rushing off to see the sights as Nicholas invited friends round for a late lunch.   Nicholas is a wonderful cook and would only let me do the menial chores while he got stuck into the serious business of creating a gourmet dish – roasted chicken portions, yellow rice and raisins, green beans and carrots served with a choice of homemade Satay Sauce, homemade tomato sauce and/or gravy.

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Nicola had just entered a gymnastics competition. She won a bronze medal. Well done Nicola!

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Jessica is twelve and going through to the finals in an orators’ contest tomorrow. Her subject “Should the world become like the EU” Definitely not she said and has some good points to back up her opinion.

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Enjoying the fruits of Nicholas’s labours. The dinner was huge success in spite of frustrating problems with a temperamental oven now fixed – thanks to Guy!

It was really good getting to know these really good friends of Nicholas.  The girls were charming, helpful and beautifully behaved.   Diane and Guy good company making it a really lovely relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Nicholas and I are now preparing to leave for Dover at Midnight.  So perhaps it is time for me to have a cat nap before we go.

4

An Adventure Abroad – More Historic Trivia and a Reunion

It may be cold and rainy here in England but the light – oh my, the late light!  How disorientating it is – at 9 o’clock it was broad daylight and I thought it was still late afternoon!    That is why I am only now getting down to doing my blog!

This morning Nicholas complained that I had not put nearly enough information about his mini-museum and took me on another expertly guided tour and filled my head with loads of detail about his favourite pieces.   I am now way better informed about our family history, have been down the memory lane of our childhood and ventured into the traditional past of the Royal Family.

My Flag-mad brother has the old SA flag above his bed

My Flag-mad brother has the old SA flag above his bed

He had this reproduction of the first S.A. Union Flag of 1910-1928 custom made

He had this reproduction of the first S.A. Union Flag of 1910-1928 custom made

Favourite Flag - I forget which  one it is but I am sure he will inform me when he reads this blog!

Favourite Flag – The White Ensign – Special to him as he was once a Royal Navy Chaplin

Nicholas is also a boff on the two World Wars and has researched information on our Great Uncles Mark and William Kenney who died serving in the First World War. We also have a third cousin – Cuthbert who died in Egypt in 1918.  Nicholas was unable to source a photograph of his brother William who died in May 1917

Mark Clarence Kenney with his family.   He died in battle in in October 1918

Mark Clarence Kenney with his family. He died in battle in in October 1918

Each of soldier has a memorial scroll such as this one for Mark Kenney.

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The Governor General Flag Union Of South Africa 1931 to 1961

The Governor General Flag Union Of South Africa 1931 to 1961

Earl of Athlone - Governor General 1924 to 1931

Earl of Athlone (husband of Princess Alice) was Governor General of the Union 1924 to 1931

Governor General Flag Union of South Africa 1910 to 1931

Governor General Flag Union of South Africa 1910 to 1931

Our great grandmother had a boarding house in Kimberley.  Cecil John Rhodes was one of her guests.   The story goes that he used to light his cigars with a ten pound note!

Great Granny Kenney received a medal because she was resident in Kimberley when it was under siege.

Kimberley Siege Medal

Kimberley Siege Medal – 1900

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Queen Victoria sent chocolates to soldiers who served in the Boer War – These were presented to Great Grandpa Kenney in 1900.

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Believe it or not they were never eaten – these are the originals – what a waste of good chocolate!

Here follows some photographs of some of Nicholas’s Royal Memorabilia.

Commemoration Plate -Royal Visit to South Africa -1947

Commemoration Plate -Royal Visit to South Africa -1947

Map of the Royal Visit

Map of the Royal Visit

Coronation Cup presented to the People of Port Elizabeth

Coronation Cup presented to the People of Port Elizabeth

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Coronation Stool - for special guest at Elizabeth II coronation 1953

Coronation Stool – for special guest at Elizabeth II coronation 1953

Imagine sitting on this stool for the entire coronation service!

Binoculars dating back to 1900 - as a bird watcher these really fascinate me - they still work

Binoculars dating back to 1900 – as a bird watcher these really fascinate me – they still work

Great Granny Kenney's wick scissors

Great Granny Kenney’s wick scissors

Nicholas and Granny Chimato nee Kenney on the occasion of his baptism 13 March 1960

Nicholas and Granny Chimato nee Kenney on the occasion of his baptism 13 March 1960

Nicholas and Mom when he took her to the Royal Air Force ball - 2005

Nicholas and Mom when he took her to the Royal Air Force Officers’ Ball – 2004

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Gift from a friend when Nicholas was ordained

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Another gift - miniature  designs of South African heritage - African huts, arum lilies, the flag etc.  Has to be seen to be appreciated

Another gift – miniature designs of South African heritage – African huts, arum lilies, the flag etc. Has to be seen to be appreciated

Although it is summer here in the Northern Hemisphere the weather in London was once again the same as it is in Wintery Cape Town so my summer dresses remained packed and I donned jeans and t-shirt and Nicholas drove me to my oldest friend Jenny in Bedfordshire.  

Jen and I have been friends since we were seven years old.   The friendship has survived in spite of the fact that for most of our lives we have lived miles away from each other.  She moved away from Cape Town when her father was transferred to George and she was only 11 years old.   Letters in our childish scrawl were erratically written, a few holiday spent together until we were sixteen and then a a brief loss of contact until I discovered where she was through a girl I met at college in Grahamstown.  What a happy reunion when her parents drove her the 80 miles from Port Elizabeth to visit me and thereafter I spent the odd weekend with them when I could get an off weekend from TC.

I then returned to Cape Town and she moved to Johannesburg.   An erratic correspondence continued until she came to study at UCT for a year just as I was on the brink of divorce from my first husband.  How amazing it was to have her to support me through that!   For one brief term we taught together at Witebome school for the deaf and then she married and was whisked away back to Joburg.   Joy of joys when a few years and two kids later they relocated to Cape Town, stayed ever so briefly and then emigrated to England!  By this time there was email – and so the correspondence became easier and of course we see each other whenever possible and oh boy how Skype has changed our lives!  When somebody is real friend, time and distance have no effect and we just pick up from where we left off as if it were only yesterday that we were together.  Jen and I have supported each other in all our ups and downs through life -and we always will – BFF is not so corny. We are soul mates.  She will be my best friend forever!

Jen is not well and is going in for surgery on Tuesday - but she still look gorgeous

Jen is not well and is going in for surgery on Tuesday – but she still look gorgeous

3

An Adventure Abroad – My Brother’s Mini Museum

Most of you reading my blog do not know my brother so here’s a bit of background.   He is 7 years younger than me and has been living in England since he was 20 years old.  He has therefore become quite the English Gentleman.   He is to say the least a most unusual character and always has been.  From his earliest years he has been mad about all things old.  He collected coins and stamps as a child.  History is his passion and there is little he does not know about both British and South African History and hs is a particular boff on the two World Wars.

To say he is eccentric would be an accurate yet inadequate description of him.  He loves tradition yet he’s.   In some ways he is Obsessive Compulsive but there are areas of mess in his house.   Certainly he is a man of contrasts – deeply religious yet often irreverent.    Part of him adores the military and he misses the camaraderie of men in the forces yet he can’t be controlled and does things his own way.  Definitely he is a man of contrasts – a colourful character indeed.

I find myself now a guest in a mini-museum as in every room, space, nook and cranny there are exhibits of Royal memorabilia,  military medals, badges and trinkets, old bottles, tins, jars, bowls and a variety of other collectables from the past.   He has a room that he’s converted into his own private chapel and the room in which I now sleep is called “The Flag Room” for obvious reasons!

Our Great-Uncles' medals - World War 1 - The red flag with the Union Jack in he corner was the first South African flag

Our Great-Uncles’ medals – World War 1

The red flag with the Union Jack in the top left corner and was the first South African flag.  Nicholas researched the history of these two uncles and their medals were given to him by the army as he was their closest next of kin.

Soldier of the First World War

Soldier of the First World War

Nicholas found this painting in a second hand shop, researched the soldier and shared his information with the survivors of this soldier.

Portrait of My Brother in uniform at the time of his Naval passing out

Portrait of My Brother in uniform which he had done to commemorate his Naval Passing Out

Some Royal Memrobilia

Some Royal Memorabilia

Ancient Collectables

Ancient Collectables

Coins and trinkets of varying value

Coins and trinkets of varying value

Nicholas can tell you history and each item.  He never forgets where he found them nor who gave them to him and he values them deeply.

My abode - The Flag Room

My abode – The Flag Room

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View to the Garden

View to the Garden

Private Chapel

Private Chapel

It has been a cold and wet day outside but I have enjoyed catching up with my baby brother and exploring his treasures.  You’ve just gotta love him!

Even the loo contains items of interest

Even the loo contains items of interest

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A book about Jan Smuts

2

End of School Holidays

For a teacher school holidays are a time to recharge batteries – or so that is what we are told.  But actually when you are a wife, mother and involved grandmother it is a time to catch up with your other life!  Like having your hair done, getting a manicure, servicing the car and catching up with friends and family.  Did I do any of these things –  I did catch up with two friends and I had the car valeted.  Many hours were also spent preparing material for the new term but most importantly I also spent a fair amount of time  getting  my visitor’s Visa for England organised.  This is not as simple as it sounds.  There is a comprehensive application form to be filled in online, a fee to be paid and an appointment with the Visa4UK company to be made.   Supporting documents have to accompany the application and getting them together is a mission.  If you do not have hotel bookings you have to prove that the person you are staying with is a British citizen has a job and can support you.  I am eternally grateful to my friend, Linda for supplying me with all the requirements within 24 hours of receiving my requesting email.  Then  24 hours later after filling in the online application  twice because I was thrown off right at the end of my first try and had to start all over again, I was able to pay the fee and make an appointment with said company.   My appointment was on Friday at 1 p.m. the last day of the holidays so I did not have to take an afternoon off school to get it done!  (They are in the city and close at 3 p.m.)

My darling husband took me in to the city for my appointment .   The weather was gorgeous and we were early.  While we were waiting for my appointment  we had a cup of coffee and a croissant.  “”Let’s go to Robertson for the weekend,”” he suggested.   So we googled the number of our favourite cottage on a farm in Robertson and were in luck – they could accommodate us.  So after my one hour appointment we raced home, packed and were on the road by 3:45.

Retreat Guest Cottage can be found on a  peach, apricot, grape and citrus farm  at the far end of a dirt road jutting off the Robertson-to-McGregor tar highway.    It boasts two lovely bass fishing dams and we have been going there on and off for several years.  The cottage is rustic but comfortable and we just love the peace and tranquility of the setting.   The main reason for weekending here is for the fresh water fishing but also for the wonderful birdlife.

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Not the Arniston Hotel – but quite comfortable thank you

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Enough space to relas

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Cosy Kitchen

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Personal Chef and Caterer

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View from stoep

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View on other side of cottage toward the mountains

Rusty kept us company all weekend

Rusty kept us company all weekend

Earl was fishing at before I opened my eyes

Earl was fishing at before I opened my eyes

Rusty and I took a walk to find Earl - Rusty invited me in for a swim but I declined

Rusty and I took a walk to find Earl – Rusty invited me in for a swim but I declined.

The birds were a bit nervous of the dog walking with me but some of them still obliged by posing for portraits.

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Cape Turtle Dove catching the early rays of sun

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Common Waxbill

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Tree full of yellow canaries

Double Collared Sunbird in moult

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Bokmakierie – taken a long way off

Grey-backed cisticola

Grey-backed cisticola

Stonechat

Stonechat

Retreat Cottage

Retreat Cottage Back

Front of Retreat Cottage

Front of Retreat Cottage

Succulent Garden next to the cottage

Succulent Garden next to the cottage

We took the scenic route home on Sunday afternoon and stopped to photograph one or two birds.  We drove through the picturesque little town of McGregor which was rather sleepy on this lovely Autumn day.

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Pale Chanting Goshawk - Common in this area

Pale Chanting Goshawk – Common in this area

McGregor

McGregor

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Interesting shop fronts

IMG_0284So after a wet and stormy start we ended the holiday with a lovely sunny weekend and it was back to school on Monday!

3

Easter in Struisbaai – It’s just too wet

I was surprised to wake up after my husband this morning.  But then it was almost 8 o’clock!   He was up, sitting in the Laz-y-boy reading – most unlike him.  It was still raining!

“Right now,” I said, “I have this craving for croissants – and I need to get out  – I have cabin fever!”  So we woke our sleepy daughter and made our way to l’Agulhas where I was sure  I would find said delicacy at a little coffee/gift shop called Potpourri.   “It is such a miserable day that nobody will be there and we can indulge in a good cup of coffee too.””  How wrong I was.  Everybody at the southern tip of Africa was sick of the rain and felt the need to get out for air so we could barely get a parking spot let alone a table for three.   I bought a few things I wanted from the gift part of the shop and we headed out to The Southern Most Restaurant and pub to see if they could be more accommodating.  After checking their menu and finding only egg and bacon we decided to return to Potpourri and wait for a table.   Luck was with us – in the five minutes we were gone a parking spot right outside was available and a tiny table for three was free.  Service was instant but no croissants on the menu!   I settled for Lemon Meringue while E had an English breakfast and Lolz French toast and bacon.   She was annoyed when there was no green tea – I had told her that I was quite sure it was the sort of place that would have it – so she had to settle for Rooibos.  I was well satisfied with the hot, strong and black filter coffee and Earl said the Cappuccino was excellent.

I am not usually the sort to have cake for breakfast but I just did not feel like eggs today!   The weather called for indulgence and boy did I enjoy it.

We decided that there was little point in spending another night just so we could fight the traffic home on Monday.  So we packed up and left a midday and enjoyed a pleasant, unstressed trip home.   The weather in Cape Town is somewhat less stormy but I think that might change tomorrow.

Lolz and Earl enjoying brekkie - my enormous slice of lemon meringue in the foreground

Lolz and Earl enjoying brekkie – my enormous slice of lemon meringue in the foreground

2

Easter in Struisbaai – The Simple Life and Stingrays in the Harbour

Well nothing much has happened here today.  I lay awake listening to the rain early this morning so when Earl got up at 5:30 to go fishing – I said – don’t bother – it’s pouring.   He ignored me, went to the harbour and returned with an amazed look on his face, “The wind is horrific, the sea is rough and it’s raining!

I guess that is amazing when Summer has been hanging around for so long you think she’ll stay for ever, and suddenly, shockingly on a long weekend she gets meanly pushed out by Winter.

Lolz dragged her dad off to Bredasdorp to shop but I just didn’t have the inclination nor energy to join them so I spent a lazy morning reading my book.

There is not much to report about today so I will just show you some Struisbaai pictures I took on our walk yesterday afternoon.

Struisbaai has grown considerably since I we were regular visitors in the 1980s.  There was  no electricity, no telephone and no T.V.  There was one shop and it did not provide for one’s needs adequately so everything was carted up.  Today it is a thriving medium sized holiday resort. It even has a mall!   Enterprising people have built up easy to run businesses and it would be quite a pleasant place to retire.

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Lolz and Earl choosing home made delicacies

Art on sale in an open field

Art on sale in an open field

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Old houses converted into business premises – a fashion shop and doggy parlour

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Quite quaint an picturesque

The harbour is always an interesting place to visit.  There is always something going  on.   Struisbaai is famous for its visiting sting rays who are often seeing cruising just beneath the surface in the shallows waiting for titbits of chum from the fishermen cleaning fish.

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Sting Ray swimming in the shallows

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Attracting lots of attention

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Out in the tranquil bay

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Fishing boats bobbing in the harbour

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Cormorant

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Surfers share the waves with the gulls

Earl decided that our TV was not good enough so while in Bredasdorp he and Lolz bought a new one!   They are busy installing and setting it up now.  Gone are the days when we came here simply to enjoy the simplicities of life.  Now we don’t move without laptops, dongles, cell phones and ipads.   Well I guess it is the 21st century and even though I am a nature freak – I do so love technology especially on a rainy day!   The Easter Bunny may not make it through the mud and wet unless he has a takkies with 4X4 soles!