Sadly, I am nearing the end of my trip report and writing it has been almost as good as being there as it brings home all those happy memories!  It was chilly again in the early morning as we packed to make the long trek to T.R.   At Kasper se draai waterhole we once again watched larks, sandgrouse and red-headed finches do their morning ablutions and take on some liquid in preparation for a warm day.

 Soon after we saw this lovely lanner falcon – at last he sat still for a decent photograph.

Our breakfast stop at quarter to ten was at Dikbaardskolk and we enjoyed our hosts the yellow mongoose, ground squirrels and various birds.

And then my wish came true. Since day 1 of the trip I had my heart set on a Black-chested snake-eagle in a tree and there before me was the ultimate of BCSEs.  The light was great and the bird sat still!  We  must have snapped a hundred each and all were lovely but this is my favourite.  

The sightings for the rest of the trip were great and as birders we always enjoy the feathered friends.  Here is a greater kestrel that also decided that he’d give us a photo shoot.

We stopped at Auchterlonie at 2 o’clock and got lovely pics of spike-heeled larks.  

At the waterhole a pair of ostrich parents were trying to control their unruly chicks.

 And just past Monro waterhole the iconic suricates bade us farewell.

 

We arrived at T.R. at 4 o’clock and checked into the bungalow  next to the one we had on our first two nights.   It was as yet unoccupied and Heather slipped in to see if our forgotten vegetables were still there – no luck! 

Heather and I went for a walk around the camp and came across this interesting little bird. I think it is a non-breeding black-chested prinia.   

His black chest is barely visible.

 we decided that we would spoil ourselves and later that evening we went to the restaurant for dinner.   It was delightful and although we prefer self-catering this place is worth a try.    The food was delicious – We all had venison pie and it was served with vegetables and a choice of chips, rice or potato.

We were packed and ready to go by 7 o’clock and as Twee Rivieren is at the entrance/exit gate we didn’t even have a last few hours to savour the last few moments before departure.  But the good news was that we were headed for Augrabies and we were all looking forward to that.  Earl and I were there 15 years ago but it was Heather’s first visit.  She has  had it on her list of things to do since she was 23 years old!

Our trip there was lovely as we spotted a number of interesting birds and stopped for coffee and at one of those picnic tables at the side of the road.  It was freezing, however, so after pouring coffee we sat inside the car to drink it.

What I found a bit disturbing was the number of bat-eared fox road-kill we saw.  I stopped counting after twelve.

We shopped for supplies in Uppington  – remember the forgotten vegetables at T.R. – our plan being to spend one night at AFNP.  

On arrival I handed my documents inn and was then greeted with a strange look from the clerk.   Ahem – you should have been here yesterday.  What!   Uh oh – I had booked telephonically and when I got my papers I did not check the dates and Sanparks had booked me into Augrabies and Twee Rivieren on the same night!  My fault, I know for taking it all for granted.   

As luck would have it they had not marked me as “no show’ so no penalty was charged – and they still had accommodation.   After half an hour sense reigned and we decided we would like to stay an extra night so raced back to reception to see if it were possible. We were in luck again but had to ‘down-grade to accommodation with only one bathroom – Did we care?  Not at all!  The chalet was lovely.   The accommodation at AFNP is ‘upmarket’ – well to us plebs it certainly was.   The kitchen was well-equipped and had everything that opened and shut.  The bedrooms were cosy and the plumbing was excellent.  We were right next to the restaurant and we had a great view towards the river.   Birdlife was prolific and kept us entertained as we sat on our stoep or walked around the gardens.    It was a lovely place to end our holiday.

Heather was impatient to see the falls so after rapidly unpacking we took a walk to see where all the noise was coming from.   Because of all the heavy rains the falls were pretty spectacular – but not as wonderful as after the recent storms.

Here are some pics of what we saw.

  During the two days that we spent we drove into the game area twice.   The scenery is magnificent but we were disappointed not to see too much wild life.  These are the critters we did find. 

Klipspringer

 

Giraffe

Monkey

Kingfisher

Around camp it was different and we had fun wondering around getting photographs and just enjoying the birdlife.  

White-throated Canary 

 

Pale-winged Starilings

n our last night we decided to eat at the restaurant – we hadn’t bought enough vegetables for our extra night and were not up to having rice or smash!    We settled down at an outdoor table and just after we put in our order a couple came to sit at the table next to ours.   The man looked vaguely familiar and when I glanced at his wife I realised they matched and that I did indeed know them both. 

Hullo,” I said before his name, dropped into my head.  He looked at me vaguely and greeted back without recognition.

“You know me,” I said – still the name hadn’t registered.  

“Helen!” said the wife.

Robbie grinned broadly – then the names came.  “Hullo, Robbie. Hullo Marryl.” 

They were old friends we hadn’t seen for about three years so it was a happy reunion.  They no longer live in Cape Town having retired to Mossel Bay.   Earl had stepped away to make a cell phone call and was thrilled when he came back to find his old friends at our table. We had a superb evening catching up.  They were on their way to Kgalagadi. 

After a delicious dinner we decided to order dessert but (and here I have one minor complaint about the restaurant) – we were told that the kitchen was closed! Oh my!  Well, luckily  we had still had a couple of tins of peaches and ideal milk we’d been carrying around for days so we all ended up at our chalet for dessert and coffee. 

The next morning we reluctantly packed up and set off for home.   We have an extended family so expected to be greeted by rowdy grandsons full of questions about where we had been – instead there was silence and the only greeting we received was a meow from the cat.  We checked the cupboards – but no all their clothes were still there – they hadn’t left home and returned some hours later bursting to tell us of the fun they’d had at Ratanga Junction!

 

To see more photographs – check out my face book page.

 

We were packed up and ready to go just at gate opening time.  It was chilly and we needed our jerseys and I had a knee rug for extra cosiness.

First up near 13^th waterhole were giraffes – about 8 or so.  

 

We were cruising slowly toward 13^th when I yelled stop – owls.  Earl reversed back and well-hidden deep in a thorn tree were two sleeping white-faced scops owls. Photography was difficult but we managed to get one or two good shots.   After spending some time with them we moved on to 13^th where we met Norma and her friend whose name now escapes me.   We knew they were keen on birds so took them back to the owl tree.  Before they turned around they told another couple and they too followed to the spot!

About 10km past 13^th we came upon the same group of cheetahs seen yesterday.  Lots of jackals were about and it looked like they were finishing off a meal.  They were quite far away so pics not too great.

 This cute juvenile marico caught our attention.

I can’t resist posting more adorable ground squirrel.

At 10 o’clock we stopped for breakfast at Kamqa Picnic site – it was quite windy and cold but we found a sheltered table.

My elusive Black-breasted snake eagle flew over us and I managed to get him in the air but oh how I longed for him to be in a tree!

The steenbok in the park are obliging about posing.

At a waterhole we met a mother and daughter in a CY car and stopped to chat.  It turned out that they were in a borrowed 4X4 and not from Belville at all.  They lived right in our area and the daughter Mia was at school with our Lauren! Small world.

Just as we came over the crest of a hill, Earl slammed on breaks and said, “Look behind” – Slithering slowly across the road was a cobra.  Heather managed to get some shots.  Earl did not want to reverse as it would be difficult for a following car to see us just below the crest of the hill.

We arrived at Nossob at around 3:30 and once again check in was smooth and painless.  But directions to our chalet – 11b were somewhat vague but we finally found it on the top of a rise with a stunning view across the camp.   The neighbours were sweet but kept appearing to beg for scraps. So hard to resist but wild things must fend for themselves!

After unpacking Heather and I checked out the hide and spent about an hour enjoying the little things – rufous vented titbabbler flitted in a tree in front of our eyes but never sat still enough for a photo.

However, the drongo said – forget about him – I’m a handsome chap – take me.

A jackal obliged with a pic of himself having an sundowner and a wood sandpiper strutted about proudly in the puddles.

 

We also watched some raptors flying high overhead, and identified two tawnies.  But they were too far for a photograph.

Our first sighting this morning on our way to do Marie se pad was this bold fellow walking toward us on the road.  He had no intention of shooting off into the bush and obligingly  spent some time with us.

Our first bird was superb for so early in the morning – a special in Kgalagadi – a red-necked falcon.

Not long after we saw a strange looking raptor way across the terrain perched peacefully in a tree.  The light was bad and we could barely make out what it was. But we all have good binoculars and after consulting books and debating among ourselves there was only one bird it could be – A palm-nut vulture.  But later we found out that we had it totally wrong and it was a pale form tawny eagle. How confusing these raptors can be!

Kori bustards are everywhere in Kgalagadi but I could not resist putting this one in.  He had been very busy stamping about the countryside and came up nice and close because the grass was giving him some protection.

This lark, I am convinced is a fawn-coloured lark – but I could be seriously wrong – all larks look the same!

I was looking in the bird book puzzling over said lark when Earl stopped and said – look at this strange cat!  OMIGOSH – It wasn’t a lion – it wasn’t a African wild cat – It does exist!   Right there on the side of the road – well camouflaged in the fawn coloured long dry grass was the creature we’ve been seeking on every game park trip – A CARACAL! 

It was 10:30 and we were 5km from Nossob. He stood stock still and stared at us for quite some time. Then somebody else came by and we pointed him out.  They looked until he started moving then drove off. We had him to ourselves again and followed him until he disappeared into the bush.

WOW – That was surely the highlight of the whole trip – a caracal at last! 

We returned to Nossob for breakfast and then went out again straight after, deciding to see how far north we could get.   The roads were quite good but the sightings were sparse.  However, what we did see was interesting

The problem with travelling in this direction is that one runs out of picnic sites and ablutions – so with the car door for our only protection we took turns to do the unthinkable, near Bedinkt Waterhole.  But oooh what a relief when it was all safely accomplished without a predator coming to investigate!

Of course we saw the usual beautiful gemsbok, springbok, wildebeest and steenbok from time to time but no cats.  But this morning’s caracal had us on a high that we still haven’t come down from.

A bird that for me is iconic in the arid regions is Namaqua sandgrouse and although we’d seen hundreds at the water holes we hadn’t yet had a close encounter with them until travelling back on the dune road we found 2 male and 2 females.  They were on the road but quickly scurried for cover in the dune grass.

 

We also got bat-eared foxes but too far for a pic.

We left Twee Rivieren at half past seven and the first bird to greet us perched on the fence was the beautiful Swallow-tailed bee eater,

followed shortly thereafter by a yellow canary.  We continued to get sighting of these birds throughout the day but the latter were not too co-operative at photo shoots.

Earl claimed he saw a red-backed shrike, so common in Kruger and he knows it well but the rest of us dipped on it.   Of course our usual favourites, scaly-feathered finch, white-browed sparrow-weavers and capped wheatear were always about and keen to have their portraits taken.

 

At 8:20 we got our first pygmy falcon of the trip and were on a real high about it when we came upon a KTP traffic jam – about four cars stopped on the side of the road about four kilometers before Houmoed waterhole.

“Wow, look at all the jackals,” said I.  “That’s unusual to see so many together.”  Then we saw why – about 100m from the road – two young lions on a wildebeest kill.   It was fresh so must have happened at sunrise or just before.  How wonderful not to have to fight for position to see as although quite far from the road they were in the clear and there was plenty of room for everybody to park and see.    The young lioness was resting under a tree but the male continued to wrestle with the carcass, seeing off the bravest and cheekiest of the jackals.   There must have been about 12 of them waiting for an opportunity to get their share.   We watched as the lion dragged the carcass closer to his mate and then leave it some distance from where she was and then he went to join her.  It was a thrill to see them interact and play with each other.  The jackals stayed close but did not dare grab a morsel of the wildebeest for fear of consequences.

 

We were on our way to Mata Mata so could not spend too long fraternizing with our feline friends so after enjoying them for half an hour we moved on to Houmoed waterhole.  We were thrilled to see our first surricates but they scampered off quickly so photographs were not great. Of course the Ground Squirrels were about too.

I tried to snap this PCG but he got tired of posing and decided to leave his perch – I’m rather pleased I snapped that second too late!

What we found most fascinating were the scores of Namaqua Sandgrouse that flew noisily down to the water to drink then without warning all took off again together, flew around and then returned.  They would do this in rounds several time before all flying off to an unknown destination.

 

We stopped again at Auchtelonie Picnic Site for the traditional “Earlie” breakfast and once again the Abdim’s stork was visiting.  We realized that he must be a regular here and has become quite tame.   Strangely we saw no other Abdims in the park at all and wondered if he was lost.   Abdims do frequent the Kalahari after rain so it was not that odd for him to be there – but without friends?

At Montrose Waterhole there was a large herd of gemsbok resting under the trees but little else.  We did see a tawny eagle flying overhead.

At Kanqua Waterhole the secretaries were having a coffee break.  One decided she needed to powder her nose and got carried away with a dust bath.

Thirteenth Waterhole had a huge herd of springbok and they sensibly were resting under trees too.

 

It was also great to see a lilac breasted roller – not as common here as in Kruger.

At Thirteenth we witnessed and interesting interaction between springbok and secretary birds.   There were two or three springbok drinking when three or four secretary birds made their way to the drink too.  One would think that these two creatures would not have a problem with each other but the springbok took exception to them drinking at his hole and gave them a hard time attempting to but them out of the way. It was really quite amusing but the sec birds held their own and slaked their thirst while ignoring the pesky buck.

At Fourteeth Waterhole we had fun observing the red-headed finches swarming down for quick sips of water then rapidly flying up to settle in a tree for a few minutes before swooping down for more refreshment.   The do this, I think to make it extremely difficult for a lanner to catch them and for a photographer to snap them.  A single shaft-tailed whydah made a brief appearance but disappeared before we could get a pic.

We arrived at Mata Mata at quarter to four, check in was smooth and we were given the keys for number 1.   This family cottage was great – two bedrooms, a separate kitchen, bathroom and loo and hand basins in each bedroom.   The ‘’lounge also had 2 beds so it would be suitable accommodation for 6 people.  

We did not go out in the afternoon but enjoyed the birdlife in the camp and visited the shop because – oops – I’d left the onions, sweet potatoes and green avos in a drawer at Twee Rivieren.  I reported it but needless to say I never saw my vegetables againL  

Well here is a warning to everyone – there is no fresh produce available at KTP shops.    You can buy rice, smash and vegetables in cans.   There is also a variety of canned picnic meats – ham, beef, tuna etc.   You can buy long life milk – low fat and full cream – no fat free.   Any amount of alcoholic beverage is available.  Fresh fruit juices are unobtainable but you can get Just Juice, grapetizer, appletizer etc.   Also any carbonated drinks and mineral water both still and sparkling.

Fresh eggs are available as well as sliced bread.

Our first bird this morning was a white backed vulture – far away at the top of a tree so no photo. Soon after the cute little pygmy falcons and a kestrel chasing a lilac breasted roller! Impossible to imortalise but we enjoyed watching them.

We continued to see the usual chats, flycatchers, capped wheatears and sparrow-weavers but nothing exciting turned up for a few hours.

At Sitsas Waterhole there was quite a bit of activity with red hartebeest, Springbok and Gemsbok hanging out together.   A pale changing goshawk displayed strange behavior by pulling bark off the branch he was sitting on.  I guess he was looking for insects.

Then we had an unusual sighting.   A Volkswagen drew up next to us and asked what we could see in the tree.  We told him it was a PCG and then Heather said, “Aren’t you Burger Cellié?”  He nodded.  She’d recognized him from his photo on the back of The Raptor Guide of Southern Africa which he co-authored with Ulrich Oberprieler.  And that’s how I got two books by the same authors autographed in the Kgalagadi!  (The other one is The Bird Guide of Southern Africa.) Both are photographic guides and are excellent.  I never leave home without them.

Our second snake of the trip was this guy.  I have no idea what he is – must really get a reptile field guide.

We arrived at Craig Lockhart Waterhole at quarter to twelve and spent almost an hour there.   It was fascinating watching namaqua dove, red-headed finch and lark-like buntings swoop down to drink then take off again at high speed.  A lanner made a brief appearance but must have thought the effort of hunting these hyper-active birds was just not worth it – or he’d already eaten!

 After the birds had flown off as quickly as they’d arrived the mammals got a chance at the waterhole.   There seems to be some sort of hierarchy among species as well as within their own because we noticed that while the gemsbok drank the red hartebeest kept away and the springbok seemed to be at the bottom of the pile.  

One hartebeest ‘skrikked when a gemsbok came too close to him and almost collided with his friend.

 

At Dalkeith we were once again watching bird activity when a car stopped to tell us there were cheetahs near 13^th Waterhole. We stopped arguing about larks and headed straight there.   We saw nothing but Springbok and a man with a huge lense at 13^th and asked him where the cheetah were.  He grumpily waved us on.   He’d obviously had his fill of the super fast predator.

The 6 to 8 cars marked the spot and one could park just about anywhere and get a good view.  The mom and two teen-age cubs were resting under a tree quite far from the road but we were happy with the good views we had of them.  They did not just lie there and sleep but got up and walked around and at one time we thought a hunt might occur – but we were not so lucky.   None had collars – so not sure who they were.

After an hour we really needed to move on to Kamqua for a loo break.

We saw yellow-billed hornbills, a rock kestrel beautifully perched in a tree and a black chested snake eagle flying overhead.  I desperately wanted a photograph of one but when I did see him he flew away!  More on my quest later!

 

Very little happened on our return.  The cheetahs were still there and we watched for a while but then time insisted we move on.   We saw a few giraffe at a distance and then our finally sighting just before arriving back at Mata Mata – two white-backed vultures at the top of the tree. 

All the organizing and preparations were done.  Earl and I packed the car last night and set the alarm for 3 a.m.   A minute before my alarm went off , Heather phoned and I shut the cell off thinking it was my alarm!

At 4 we arrived at her house and within minutes we were off.  The day was overcast and cool and the trip continued to be pleasant all the way to Kalahari Guest House.  We stopped at the top of the pass and ate our packed breakfast. The view was stunning but the picnic site was in a state of disrepair!

The only other stops were to refuel, stretch legs and go to the loo.  We arrived at Kalahari Guesthouse at 2 o’clock.   Our accommodation was lovely – everything clean and neat Earl and I in a double room with bathroom and Heather in her own suite.  It was hot and after our long drive we were tired and hungry.   Riana brought us a refreshing tray of tea and biscuits and we then had a nap before taking a walk on the farm.   Paul has marked out a lovely bird route that ends at a hide overlooking the river where we observed a number of water birds including South African Shelduck.  

We could have self-catered, as there was a kitchen and living area too.  But we ordered dinner with our hosts and Riana cooked us a wonderful meal – starter – delicious mushroom soup and salad followed by roast lamb, roast chicken and all the delectable trimmings. The perfect finish was a decadent chocolate desert served with a scoop of ice-cream.

We left K.G.H. at 7 with a packed breakfast from Riana.  At about 8:30 we  stopped at a roadside picnic site to have coffee. 

We arrived at the newly renovated Twee Rivieren at 10 o’clock, checked in and then went straight out for a drive, as our cottage (number 2) would only be ready at 12.

What would we see first?  Earl said Springbok, Heather – gemsbok. I forever the optimist said –“Cheetah”

Ha – well it was Ground Squirrel, which continued to intrigue and amuse us several times during the entire trip.  How cute they are! 

Following that, we did see a good number of gemsbok and springbok – but sadly no cheetah!   Although there were herds of animals we were intrigued to see springbok, gemsbok and wildebeest dotted singly under trees or out in the open grazing alone.   Had they been expelled, or voluntarily chosen the single lifestyle?

 

Being the bird enthusiasts that we are we were constantly on the lookout for interesting feathered friends and were delighted to find many of the species we don’t see back in the Western Cape.

White-browed sparrow-weavers were everywhere – and as usual foxed us for the first few seconds every time we saw them.  The darling little scaly-feathered finches had us oohing and aahing too and I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of these tiny birds with the cutest ‘old man’ faces in neat bow ties. 

 The fly -catchers – well – what confusing birds but we managed to distinguish the spotted from the chat from the Marico.  

The beautiful capped wheat-ear was constantly seeking attention and gave us many opportunities to photograph him in flattering poses.

The sociable weavers never fail to fascinate.  And their nests boggle their mind.  How do these tiny birds construct such condominiums?   Even the Pygmy falcons think they’re worth renting but although we examined the entrances for white-wash we didn’t find any evidence of tenants. Perhaps it’s the wrong time of year.

Then  gazing at of these structures though, we did see an unwelcome intruder – a cobra in search of a meal!

 I don’t think these owners of the block will be happy to see crime in their area!

Near Houmoed water hole we got our first Kori Bustard of the trip.

 Nearby we decided to take a detour to a view point.    Earl wanted to go straight back down again but we persuaded him to do a loop.   It was a good choice because we saw the hard-to-spot Temminck’s Courser

and although they run at a rapid speed making photography difficult we managed to get some reasonable shots.

At 12;50 it was time to turn and retrace our route.   At Monro Waterhole we got our first Secretary  Bird – an absolute favourite of mine.

We arrived back at T.R. and picked up our key to the cottage.   A strange set up – two beds in the kitchen and 2 in the bedroom which leads off from the former.  And then the bathroom and loo lead off from the bedroom.   But it was comfortable and we were delighted to be there.

After unpacking and a snack we set off for another brief drive.   I like this pic of the immature Pale Chanting Goshawk – they were everywhere.  

The highlight was a Northern Black Korhaan female and I was delighted to get a poor photograph.  (Watch this spot for better ones later in the trip!)

We were well satisfied with our first day’s outing and it looked like we were going to have a great week in the park!

Today started badly.   We woke up late and rushed to get the snacks and juices packed and in the rush to get out there I forgot my jersey.  Now yesterday had been hot but today looked threatening.  Earl insisted that I would not need any extra warmth and continued to the gate to collect our permit.   But then I noticed that we’d also forgotten to pack the cool bag of drinks so we had to go back anyway.  I rushed inside and omigosh – we hadn’t locked up!  I think it was I who was the last one out so I felt very foolish and guess what – I still forgot to grab my jersey!   We saw the usual springbok, wildebeest and springbok and I love Earl’s photo of the forest of horns.  

Our first bird was a Jackal  Buzzard but not good enough for a photograph.   A Northern Black Korhaan disappeared into the bush so didn’t give us a photograph either.

At 10 past 8 it started to rain and the temperature dropped.  Luckily, Earl had left two jackets in the car so I didn’t suffer cold after all!   The wet weather gave us some different photo opportunities.   We found a pale chanting goshawk under a tree looking decidedly put off by the inclement weather.

Then the weather must have got to a lanner and a greater kestrel because they chased each other from tree to tree for some time.

The rain stopped after 20 minutes but a chill wind blew and it didn’t warm up till much later in the day.   This was the coldest day we experienced in the park. 

We stopped for breakfast at Auchterlonie and for the first time Earl could use his new toy!   As there are no skottels for hire like in Kruger he decided to buy a portable gas stove that is packed in a neat plastic carrier case.   Because it is square with the cylinder connected flat on the side, it cannot tip over.    We got ours at Christie’s Sports in Diep River, Cape Town.

It was cold at the picnic site and I was ever so grateful for Earl’s jacket.   After a warming and satisfying breakfast of scrambled eggs, tomato, bacon and banana on toast we were off in search of birds again.    

But as we were leaving we had an unusual visitor to the picnic site – an Abdim’s stork who posed obligingly for many photographs.  Other interesting sightings during the day were crimson-breasted shrike, a family of ground squirrels and one emerging from his hole, familiar chat, chat fly catchers, marico fly catchers, an Ovambo Sparrow-hawk, an ostrich family with about 5 chicks, a steenbuck, two springbok having a head to head confrontation among the usual jackals, secretary birds, kori bustards and red hartebeest.

 

I got up at 5 a.m., showered and had everything ready to be packed into the car by 6 o’clock. I woke Earl and then went across to the house to make sure Laurie was up too.   Allan was and made us all a cup of tea.  At 6:45 we said our goodbyes and were on the road to Durban.  It had rained on and off all through the night and now it was cold and overcast.   The boys were still fast asleep in the tent when we left.

We arrived in Durban at half past nine, had breakfast at the Woolworths restaurant, which took longer than we expected.  We then rushed to buy a few things at Checkers, went to the vodocom shop to buy airtime for my internet bundle and a new hands free, voice activated gadget for Earl and by the time this was done it was too late to shop at Woolworths.  We raced to the airport and were just in time to meet Heather and Hazel.   We then said our goodbyes to Laurie and left her to wait for her flight to Cape Town, which was due to leave at 2:30.  We were just getting into the car when she called to tell us her flight was delayed by three hours so she had to spend the whole day at the airport!  Poor kid – but she found a hotspot so could at least go online and chat to friends.

We were grateful for the cool overcast weather and the temperature only got up to 24.   We arrived at Hluluwe at 3 and drove around till half past six.  It was lovely seeing different birdlife and the highlights were little bee-eaters and a yellow-billed kite sitting in a tree.   We also enjoyed watching the red-collared widow birds and their rather pretty, stripy-faced wives.   There were also a number of cisticolas with which we were not familiar and still need to verify identities.

Hluluwe is the place to see rhino and we saw them several times.  

 

It was also great to see a large herd of buffalo, a few wildebeest, zebra and impala.  The lambs were particularly cute and we observed ox-peckers taking tufts of fur out of the poor creatures –obviously for nesting material.  The impala let it be known that too much of that would not be tolerated!

After a long day of travelling, we decided to eat at the restaurant this evening.  We were pleasantly surprised at an excellent buffet providing a variety of starters and main courses and an array of delicious deserts.  We all had cauliflower soup to start and then among other things we ate dolrado, calamari rings, rollmps, smoked mackerel,  pickled fish, spring rolls, prawns, mussels, turkey, pork chops and a variety of salads and vegetables.   For dessert, I had fruit salad and some dreadful ice cream that tasted like bubble gum.  But that was the only yucky part of the meal!

We were entertained by the kitchen staff!

Hazel, Heather and Earl enjoying dinner and entertainment.

We were back in our comfortable chalet by 9 and went straight to bed.

Last night we told Heather and Hazel to sleep in till 6:30 but Hazel set her alarm for quarter to by mistake.  Earl and I were awake at quarter past 5 and were showered and ready by 5:30.  We intended going for a walk. However, when we heard the others, decided to make breakfast and head off early.  Heather was really put out when she found that she could have slept half an hour longer!

It was a beautiful day so we sat outdoors and enjoyed our “Early” breakfast and watched a twin-spot batis or two in the trees. We heard turruco and other birds but they did not make an appearance.  

We were packed and ready to go by half past 7, went to pay for last night’s dinner and then drove around Hluluwe before leaving via Memorial Gate.  

Interesting sightings were an African Harrier Hawk in a tree but at quite a distance, a barn swallow posed nicely for its portrait, Jacobin Cuckoos were also obliging.   We laughed when we saw a big fat warthog trundling down the road – all covered in mud!  

We stopped at a picnic site to go to the loo and were impressed with the excellent condition of all the facilities.   After watching a square-tailed drongo we headed for Memorial Gate and left the park just before 10 o’clock.

We loved the scenery on the way to Ndumo and felt we were really in Africa when we drove through the villages and saw how they sold their farm produce on the side of the road, had hair salons in make-shift shelters and traded on the pavements.  It was throbbing with life this morning as it is just after the Christmas weekend and back to business as usual.

We crossed the bridge of a beautiful dam and stopped in a byway to take photos.  We were immediately mobbed by young black boys selling crystal rocks.   We did not want them but they begged and begged so Earl gave one of them some money, which he quickly pocketed and refused to share with the others.  They begged Earl for more and they looked so desperate that I gave them a box of water biscuits.  Heather was horrified, as they are her favourites.   I found it a really upsetting experience.

Our final stretch to Ndumo was along a very corrugated gravel road.   The other road had been seriously pitted with potholes so altogether it was not a comfortable journey!   We finally arrived at the entrance gate of Ndumo at 12:30. Our first exciting bird was an European bee-eater and although it was during the heat of the day we spotted a few interesting birds including white helmutshrikes, paradise fly-catchers, blue waxbills, grey-headed sparrows and a violet-backed starling.

Blue Waxbill

Our bungalows are comfortable and air-conditioned but we have to use communal ablutions and kitchen.   We settled in at half past one and then rested for a few hours.  As I type we have no water in our bungalow but they are working on the problem.

After our rest, at 4 o’clock, we set out on a route that Earl thought might be productive.  It seems, though, that Ndumo does not have as much to show us as during our 2005 visit with Barbara and Andrew.   Some of the roads and hides are closed because of the drought.  We took a 4×4 track which was quite ambitious for our Caravelle.  We did see some interesting birds but not in great numbers.  Highlights were Crested Guinea fowl, Crested Francolin, Grey-headed bush-shrike and Crowned Eagle.  I spotted the latter in a tree after we’d decided not to complete the 4×4 trail and had turned around.

We also saw warthog, nyala, wildebeest, impala and just as dusk closed in around us an enormous rhino blocked our path.  

 

Barn Swallow

Water was still not functional in our bungalow so we did all food preparation in Heather and Hazel’s. Earl braaied chops and steak which we enjoyed with sweet potatoes and salad.   

It is exactly thirty years since I gave birth to my beautiful daughter, Laurie.  I phoned her yesterday to wish her well on the last day of being 29!   I did not think we’d get a signal here but Earl has roaming on his phone and is able to connect via Mozambique so we rang her again at 11 this morning.

This morning at 5:30 we went for a morning walk with Sonto, the same guide we had in 2004.   I was hugely impressed at how well Hazel kept up and managed the rough terrain and walking across a very rickety swing-bridge.    We dipped on a Pel’s Fishing Owl, the reason being that he is searching all along the river and not sticking to one place at present.   However, Sonto using his ability to imitate bird calls showed us yellow-bellied apalis, golden backed tinker-barbet, broad-billed roller, forest weavers, tawny-flanked prinia, blue-mantled fly-catcher and the highlight Narina Trogon.  Our fellow walkers were a keen bird-nerd family – mom, dad and two sons.   The boys were good at recognising birdcalls and spotting and they took some good photographs with their identical Pentax cameras.

After our walk we swam at the pool, took washing to the laundry, which the maids did at a cost of R15 and had our breakfast of toast and tea on Heather and Hazels deck.   We then rested for a few hours before venturing out again.

We all spent the morning doing our own thing including having a nap.  Earl was the first to wake and hassled us to get ready to go for a drive.  There was a breeze blowing and although the temperature was in the thirties it was no unbearably hot so in spite of Heather feeling it was crazy to go out in the middle of the day we persuade her that it would be okay. And thank goodness we did because we had a productive and enjoyable afternoon.

We drove to the gate and then along the fence to the tower that looks over the canopy. En route we stopped often to observe golden-breasted bunting, twin-spot batis and southern black tit.   We also had some interesting experiences with raptors and observed a pair of cuckoo hawks flying over head and then a steppe buzzard conflicting with them. At the same time there was a flock of European Bee-eaters flying around.

Golden Breasted Bunting

Soon after that we spotted a brown snake eagle in a tree.  While everybody was focussing on it I saw a bateleur swiftly fly through the trees but nobody else got the same glimpse as I did.

Once on the road next to the fence an obliging brown-hooded kingfisher posed beautifully for a photo-shoot. 

We parked the car and then climbed up the towere and spent a while looking over the canpy which was like a green carpet of leaves covering the reserve. We had panoramic views of the places we could make our way to later. We heard the purple crested turacco but he did not grace us with his presence at the top of a tree!

As we drove back Earl spotted a violet backed starling and while we watched him a pair of paradise fly-catchers and some woodhoepoes darted in and out among the trees.  We also saw forked and square-tailed drongos.

Driving on towards the turnoff to the Red Cliffs, a falcon flew straight in front of us then disappeared into the trees.  We are not sure what it was.

Hearing an interesting bird call, I asked Earl to stop and looked deep into the bush to see what I could find.  Nothing – but Hazel said, “Oh look down here.” And there right next to the car was a water dikkop and just a metre from him two crested francolin were having a sand bath.

We also found the rare crested guineafowl.

A crested guineafowl

Then we came to a place where the bush was not quite so dense and in the clearing a herd of giraffe appeared and it was surreal to have them so close to us.  There must have been about 15 altogether – moms dads and young.   These giraffe are almost golden brown in colour and very pretty.   I just love these truly African creatures. They are graceful, elegant and gentle creatures.  We felt truly privileged to have had such an close encounter with them.

It was quarter to five by the time we arrived at The Red Cliffs picnic site – but believe me we saw no cliffs that were red!   I found the loo – a long-drop, clean enough but not that pleasant except for the fact that it had an incredible view over the river!

We saw trumpeter hornbills flying over and one actually sat in a tree and allowed us a good view of it.  

It was getting late and we still wanted to go to the hide.   So we drove as quickly as possible stopping only to see the most interesting things which included a green spotted dove sitting in tree and allowing me to take a good photograph,

  Green-spotted Dove

 a pair of yellow-billed kites on a carcass – we think that had been put out for vultures.   We also observed a bird that at first made us think it was a brown snake eagle. But it did not have yellow eyes.  A couple who we’d seen at the cuckoo hawk sighting told us it was a dark from steppe buzzard – and on consulting our bird book we had to agree.

We would have liked to spend more time at the hide but it was getting dark and we needed to be back in camp before 7 o’clock.   We saw yellow weaver, masked weavers, a jacana, hippo, green-backed heron and some martins before we decided to leave.

We braaied again for supper and then packed up as much as possible as we are leaving at 6 tomorrow morning.

 

Earl and Allan went out on the dam again this afternoon at about 4 o’clock and returned at 7 o’clock.  The girls made a stunning dinner of roast pork and chicken with sweet potatoes and onions and a lovely Greek Salad followed by chocolate mouse pudding.

The guys were out on the lake at 5 o’clock.  I roused the boys from dreamland at 6 ‘clock and we were on our bikes by 6:15.  It was cooler this morning as there was some cloud cover but it warmed up as the day progressed!   The boys were more observant this morning and kept calling to tell me what game they saw as the sped ahead of me.   I found the hills and bumpiness of the road quite a challenge but refused to get off and push my bike.  The result was a pounding hear and severe shortness of breath but oh my downhill was my reward!  I was tempted to let out all the stops and career down at a thrilling speed but the thought of Priscilla in plaster in her hospital bed and the likelihood that I could so easily join her restored my common sense and I cruised at a more grandmotherly pace.  The boys, the perfect little gentlemen that they are, waited for me at appropriate points always asking kindly if I were okay and should they go more slowly. I bravely said I would be fine and they beat me home by a good 15 minutes, but I’m proud to say that I took 5 minutes off yesterday’s time!

Earl and I made a huge fruit salad for breakfast and we all sat on the deck to enjoy it.  The kids went off to the petting zoo and Jay raced to our lodge with what he thought was exciting news.  “The man at the animals said that because we’re such regular visitors I can have a pregnant guinea-pig free!    Can I Gran, please. Can I?”  I would have loved to be able to say yes – but how was he to get it home on SAA?   So I’ve half promised to get him one back in Cape Town. Oh dear!

A little later Earl and Allan took Simon and Joshua out on the boat.   They can only take two kids at a time.

The thunder storm hit at 1 o’clock so all fishing was ended for the day. It was pouring when Earl and I left for Joy Farm, where we had a massage with two of the best masseurs we have ever had.  I had Joy and Earl had Karen.   They were both excellent.  Joy got into all my ‘spots’ and I felt wonderful afterwards.

The rain had stopped by the end of the massage and we went home for an earl y braai and an early night.

Thursday 24 December 2009  

Our last morning at Sani Valley Lodge dawned overcast but warm.  Earl and Allan were on the water just after 5 o’clock and Shannon and Jay ran down to the boathouse just before 7 to get their turn on the boat.

I was up just after 5 o’clock, fiddled on the computer, checked emails and face book etc and was devastated to hear that my friend Cheryl’s brother and his wife were killed in a cycling accident on Tuesday.  They were riding their tandem bicycle in Mosselbay when  a truck hit them head on.   They died on the scene.  

I packed up as much as I could at our lodge then cycled to Rainbow and packed up my bits and pieces into the camping boxes.   The fishermen returned at 9 and Earl made breakfast then everybody helped to pack the car and trailer.  By half past 10 we were on the road back to Kokstad.  We had Laurie and the kids and Allan, Lauren and Lisa drove to Maritzburg to collect Granny Bangay.

Simon sat next to me in the middle row and chatted non-stop – longest conversation I’ve ever had with him as he is an affectionate by shy little boy.   He is very interested in birds (and fishing) and looked up enthusiastically each time we pointed out something to the kids.  He also spotted the hammerkop before anybody else. He then wanted to look at my bird field guide and raptor book. He knew the difference between eagles and vultures etc which I think is quite impressive. He also explained to me why they had the claws and beaks they had. Shannon has been teaching him well.

We stopped at Underberg for Just Juices and chips, which thrilled the little ones no end.

The house had not been left in ship-shape when we left and I just could not leave it alone.  Laurie and I started a major clean-up reminiscent of “Clean House”  on T.V.   We got all the kids involved and they had to tidy ‘Granny’s room” scrub the bathroom, vacuum and wash up and dry up.  We also did a load of washing and hung it outside but had to rush to bring it in and hang it on the clothes horse when the rain came pelting down!  I also tidies and re-packed all Lauren’s kitchen cupboards.  The poor girls has so little space in that tiny kitchen.  The plan is to do renovations very soon!

Shan has come down with tonsillitis. As soon as we got home she fell fast asleep on the couch. After Lauren came back from PMB she took her to the doctor.  She is now on mooty and should be fine for Christmas!

 

 

With the car packed and prepared for a bird active weekend, we set off at 7:50 a.m. this morning.   The temperature was 15⁰C and raining and the mercury dropped to 12⁰ at the Tokai turnoff.

The first wild creatures we encountered were baboons on the pass through the Breede River Valley.   We arrived in Ceres at 8:47 and had a quick and delicious breakfast at The Wimpy.

We drove on slowly and as we ventured further and further into the Karoo, the temperature rose and the rain stopped.

Because of the recent rains, dams were full, rivers were running, and so many water birds were included on our list.  We stopped on river bridges and next to ponds and dams and also spotted the odd birds of prey about, the most abundant being Pale Chanting Goshawk and Jackal Buzzard.

After driving over Theronsberg pass where we encountered a bit of mist, the weather cleared and the sun came out although the temperature was only 16⁰C at 10:00 a.m.   We stopped at Karoopoort where there is a picnic spot opposite a farmhouse.  It is known for fairy flycatcher and Layard’s titbabbler in the poplar trees. Two weeks ago when we were on a trip with Brian’s Birding we’d seen both these birds among others but today we only got Greater-striped swallow, Cape Canary, Malachite sunbird, double-collared sunbird, pied starling and familiar chat.

At 11h10 we came to the place where the R46 forks into the R354 to Calvinia and the R355 to Sutherland.  At this fork, there is a picnic site where we’d seen Karoo Eromomela and a Layard’s titbabbler nest with Brian.  There was no chance of seeking birds here as being Heritage Day the local population were out in force with loud music and a determination to fulfil their mission of making the braai, which the country had been exhorted to do to celebrate their heritage!  We did, however, see a little bird we were not sure of.  It called out a cheerful prrr prrr from a perch some distance away, we took its portrait, and later identified it as a grey-backed cisticola.

We then followed the R354 and the birding was good.  We saw White-throated canary, yellow canary, Jackal buzzards – many – pale chanting goshawk – many – one black harrier flying, large-billed lark, another grey-backed cisticola, many Cape weavers and black-headed canaries briefly as we crossed the Doring River.  There were also two tortoises crossing the road and I hopped out to put them into a safer location.

At around 4 o’clock we arrived at Bizansgat, which is halfway between Ceres and Sutherland.   We found this little cottage on the net and had no idea what we were coming to other than that it had no electricity!   Deville Wickens, the owner, is based in Cape Town and told us that Petrus, his farm labourer would see to our needs. 

We crossed a little river and were met by the most charming sight – a tiny-whitewashed cottage with a rietdak and wooden stable door and small windows designed to keep the building warm in winter and cool in summer and not for view or light!   The kitchen had a small, square skylight, which lit the room perfectly.  None of the internal walls reached all the way up to the ceiling and there was no running water anywhere in the cottage, which consisted of a bedroom, kitchen and living area.   It was delightful. The walls were hung with family photographs, the rooms simply furnished in the style of earlier years.   On the top of the wall in the bedroom were perched the cutest hats and gloves reminiscent of those my grandmother would have worn.  

“Where,” I wondered was the bathroom and wash-up area – the kitchen had a fridge and gas stove, dressers with crockery and cutlery but little else.   We explored and found an outhouse which I was loathe to go into but then Earl called – “Look, Die Wasklip”. And there was the ablution black.  The wash up sink was on the stoep and there were two delightful bathrooms each with double basins, shower and loo.   Everything was prettily furnished; there was a place to hang towels, a cubicle for dressing in and a full-length mirror.   When going to the Wasklip one had to cover one’s head with one’s hands as the swallows bombarded one for fear that their chicks would be disturbed! There was also an old barn converted into a recreation room where one could light a fire in a lovely old hearth, read the many magazines and books or play an assortment of games.  This place is a find!  It’s charming, peaceful and has a view to die for. 

  Close to the cottage is a lovely pond “all set about by willow trees” and two farm geese think they have sole rights to it. Should you dare to intrude the white male honks and rushes at you with neck scarily outstretched!  We had to teach him his manners but he was a slow learner.  Fortunately, it was more for show than meanness.

Petrus who arrived shortly after we arrived was just as I imagined – a throwback from the indigenous people he is clearly descended from and we could not have wished to meet a more charming and willing man.  I asked him to pose for a photograph, which he did with great pride. 

After unpacking and settling in we went for a walk and were thrilled at the birdlife we found.   Namaqua warbler were calling invitingly and we saw malachite sunbirds, white-backed mousebirds, Karoo robin, sickle-winged chat, Karoo chat among others.   We were thrilled with our photographs too.

Karoo Chat

 Sickle-winged chat

Namaqua Warbler

Cape Robin-chat

 Karoo scrub-robin

The braai was in a sheltered boma, protecting us from the wind and chill.   Earl produced a stunning early meal before it got dark and because there was little else to do without electricity, we went to bed early and read using our headlamps.  It was not as cold as I expected and we slept snug and warm.

 

I woke early but did not want to get out of bed fearing that I’d be met with an icy chill in the air but eventually I got up, donned slippers and fleece and went out to the loo.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was not that cold after all although when I checked later at 8 o’clock it was 9⁰C.    We ate our breakfast of delicious fruit salad and yogurt on the stoep.   From where we sat, we observed Karoo thrush, wagtails, three-banded plover, white-backed mousebirds, common fiscal, sickle-winged chats and Cape weavers.

Earl wanted to see Sutherland, 100km away, before making our way to Op Die Berg where we would spend the next two nights.   What he didn’t realise is how long the trip would take on the dirt road, stopping frequently to observe interesting Karoo birds! One of the highlights was a bar-throated apalis and later a rufous-eared warbler

 Earl’s Picture of Rufous-eared Warbler

 My picture of rufous-eared warbler

 Another rufous-eared warbler taken at another spot by me.

We were becoming quite weary of travelling the unexpectedly long road when in the middle of nowhere we came across a round construction/skerm with a  chalk board at the side of the road, inviting us to stop.  We read – Rek jou litte, krap en neem saam.  Gee ‘n regverdige donasie en reis veilig verder.

DIe Bosskerm

 The Goodies Inside

We hopped out and went inside to find a delightful array of goodies set neatly on a table.  Against the walls were cool boxes filled with drinks and cookies.    The prices were listed on a black board and there was a milk urn for the takings.   There wasn’t a soul in sight – it was all on trust!

We were so impressed that we spent R100 on cookies and fudge!  In addition, it rose our spirits and  gave us a warm glow to think that there are still people out there who have faith in human nature!

Sutherland was delightful – a typical little Karoo dorp.  We went to the local butcher and bought a whole lamb, which they cut up and packed in a cardboard box.  Little did we realize that it was just ‘chucked’ in.  Earl had expected them to pack like portions with like!   I had to do that later!

Having snacked on our ‘skerm’ snacks we were not that hungry so after filling up with fuel we went to a little tearoom called “Halley-sê-Kom-Eet” (a play on Halley’s comet or Halley’s Komeet in Afrikaans) Of course everything in the town relates to star-gazing.   I had a chocolate milkshake and Earl a cappuccino and apple cake – yes, I gave into temptation and had a few tastes.

 Halley se Komeet:-)

It was 1 o’clock when we left and retraced our way back along the R356.  At quarter to two, we reached the border between the Boland and Cape Winelands.   From a bridge, we looked down the river and saw a shelduck family with 10 babies.  We also saw a Cape Batis quite beautifully perched on a twig but it flew off before I could snap its portrait.

We continued on our way continuing to find more and more birds but unfortunately no coursers, korhaans or bustards.  Booted eagles were conspicuous by their absence – surprisingly as we’d seen many when we were with Brian two weeks ago.

Earl had a vague idea where we were staying but thought it would be on a farm before we came off the Katbakkies pass.  After much searching and a bit of frustration we realized that it was on the Op Die Berg road.   The confusing part was that we were looking for Houdenbek but it is part of a group called Môre Stêr and those were the signs we saw!

1. We had to come through a security gate but did not have a code and there was nobody to open up for us for several minutes.  Then somebody drew up behind us, entered his code and we passed through.  There was nobody at reception either.  A guest who was housed next to the office told us that the receptionist had gone off duty.   We decided to simply find the cottage and move in and as we came up to it, we heard shouts and a woman came running down to welcome us.  She said that she’d tried to phone us but got no reply.  Not surprising since there was no cell reception there or on the road we had just travelled.

The cottage was lovely, the highlight being a ball and claw bath in the corner of the bedroom with just a screen for privacy!  It provided a deep and luxurious soak!   There was also a separate shower and loo.

Earl braaied outside although it was a tad chilly.  I did the vegetables in the micro and made a small salad and we finished our meal with a delicious fruit salad and yogurt.

It was freezing this morning, about 10⁰C with a stiff wind blowing.    After a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs and kidneys, we went to check out the dam.  The rock formations in the area are fascinating and the dam is surrounded by these rocky hills.  The first bird that I spotted this morning was a hoopoe perched atop a rock outside our cottage.   High up on the rocks at the dam we saw Egyptian and Spur-winged geese.   We were parked on the crest of a hill and Earl wandered down to get a better fishing spot then came back and called me to see a cute little bird he didn’t quite recognize.  I reluctantly put my nose out into the chill, wandered down the hill, and into my path hopped said bird – a little Cape Siskin but he did not stay long enough for a photo shoot.  Earl decided that it was not worth braving the elements in the slim chance that a trout would jump onto his line so we headed out toward Skitterykloof to search once again for the cinnamon breasted warbler.  We’d seen it two weeks earlier with Brian’s Birding but this time we dipped on the experience.

While we were parked a skedonk of a little red car passed us and pulled up in front.  A bohemian looking man emerged.    Leica binoculars dangling on his chest, he strode toward us.

“You are looking for the Cinnamon Breasted Warbler,” a French accent politely asked. “I’ve seen him here yesterday.’

Well, thanks for that – but he could not be found today!

We chatted to the fascinating Frenchman who was armed with Callan, Clare and Jonathan’s Southern African Birdfinder and he told us that he was spending a few months in the country looking for all the specials.  It was clear that he was widely travelled and had an excellent knowledge of the birds of all the countries he visited.   In fact, he was probably more clued up than we were.

“You should get in touch with the Cape Bird Club,” Earl suggested and pointed to me. “You are talking to the secretary right now.”

I hoped he did not have expectations that just because I was a committee member I would be an expert on the birds of the Little Karoo and the rest of South Africa!

He was delighted at the news saying he had been thinking of contacting the club and I gave him my details saying we would do anything possible to help him with guides and outings.  I mentioned Brian Vanderwalt of Brian’s Birding and he continued in his delightful French accent, “Yes I met him at Rooiels while looking for the rock jumper which I did not find.  But because of that, I decided to go to Sir Lowry’s Pass and there I find the Rock Jumper.   And there is something else I must tell you though it is nothing to do with birds and you might not be interested but while I am there, I see a leopard (he pronounces it lee-oa-pard).

My mouth drops open – not be interested – is he kidding!

We tell him that a lee-oa-pard – is an amazing sighting even in a game reserve and he sees it on Sir Lowry’s Pass!   There are Cape Leopards in the surrounding mountains and particularly near Betty’s Bay,  but at the rock jumper spot – not that I know of.  This is most exciting.

After chatting a little more and discussing routes that we planned taking, he drove off.

We passed him further on and took the R354 to Tankwa Karoo National Park.   A chilly wind was blowing and there was a spit and a spot of rain, but not enough to wet the ground.   We stopped to look at a lark when suddenly a bird I instantly recognized dropped on the ground in front of me.  Earl and I got a beautiful view of a black-eared sparrow-lark – not as easy to find as his cousin the grey-backed sparrowlark – so I was thrilled but as I was about to snap he flew far into the low scrub and disappeared.  Just then, the Frenchman pulled up behind us.   Earl told him what we’d just seen and he said, “That eez ze bird I am looking for!”   We walked into the veld and soon a few of the little birds flew up and then just as quickly dropped down and disappeared.  This went on for some time and Earl and I left him to try to get good views of this Karoo Special.

He caught up to us later and reported that he had got good views of the birds and even watched them protecting their fledglings.

I knew that European Bee-eaters were arriving in the area for summer but did not expect to see one so when we stopped on a bridge it was a thrill to see two although the photograph was disappointing.

A little later we almost rode over a puff-adder impersonating a thick stick!   Ugh!

Our French friend was also searching for bustards, korhaans and coursers and we kept our eyes peeled for all of the above.  The only other exciting thing we found for him were Namaqua Sandrouse and he was thrilled with that.

 Grey-backed sparrowlarks male front.

 Namaqua Sandgrouse – male -left

Just before getting to Tankwa Karoo National Park Reception, we saw two Ludwig’s Bustards, but they raced off toward the crest of a hill and all but disappeared into the veldt, which is the same colour as them.

We went to the loo, filled our water bottles with beautifully cooled filtered water at reception and asked for advice on the best route back to Houdenbek.   My South African pride swelled when I saw the clean facilities and experienced efficient service from the staff.  Well done Sanparks for achieving high standards.

We retraced our steps and met Stephane again, told him to look out for the bustards and then left him to enquire about accommodation at Tankwa.

We drove home as quickly as the dirt road would allow and stopped only for the most interesting birds and managed to get some fair pictures of grey-backed sparrowlark, red-capped lark, thick-billed and Karoo lark.

   Karoo Lark

 Large-billed Lark

   Red-capped Lark

It was bitterly cold when we arrived home so we decided to braai indoors.  This was a wise decision as the rains came too.

After a lovely fruit salad breakfast, we packed up and set off for home.   On our way out, we stopped to photograph Karoo Thrush and to watch common fiscals with their fledglings.

It was cold and wet, so birding on the way home was not that great but we took a picturesque drive over Bain’s Kloof and enjoyed the magnificent scenery.   It was sunny on the other side and we arrived home to a sunny but cool 15⁰C  in Sun Valley.

 

Friday 7 August 2009

Off to Kleinbaai

Saturday 8 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 2

Sunday 9 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 3

Monday 10 August 2009

Kleinbaai Day 4

We were really lucky to have such great weather this weekend.  This morning the change set in and there was a stiff, cold wind blowing.   After another delicious Early breakfast we packed up and were ready to leave by half past eleven.   Gus and Earl towed the boat while I drove the rest of us back in the Caravelle.   We took the scenic rout again, which was lovely as once again we escaped the traffic while enjoying the wonderful scenery of Kleinmond, Betty’s Bay, Clarence Drive, Rooi Else, Gordons Bay and Strand etc.   We arrived home at 2:30 and the men were an hour behind us as they’d stopped to see somebody on the way.

Daniel’s family arrived at exactly the same time to drop Joshua off – Perfect timing and a wonderful end to a terrific weekend.