FRIDAY 21 OCTOBER 2011 PUNDA MARIA

We pack plenty of snacks, juice a flask and sandwiches as one cannot buy food at Pafuri or Crook’s corner where we are heading today. We see lots of bird – always in parties – suddenly gathering and creating a fuss then just as quickly dispersing into the silence. It is at first quite overcast so the light is not good for photography but we see brown-headed parrot, white-fronted bee-eaters, red-billed firefinch, blue waxbills, common waxbills, emerald spotted dove, wire-tailed swallow, among other more common species.

The scenery in the north is just too beautiful and it is great to see baobab trees in various stages of leafiness.

At Pafuri a harrier-hawk (gymnogene) flies overhead, we see a red-chested sunbird and a Bennet’s woodpecker’s loud knocking got us looking for and finding him in a nearby tee.
There are lots of monkeys in attendance trying to steal our hot cross buns and they are quite aggressive. This is because homo idiotus thinks it’s cute to feed them. We hear a red-chested cuckoo (Piet-my-vrou) and a fish eagle. We also see a skaapsterker rapidly cross our path – which freaks me out – and nyala are grazing on the river bank.

En route to Crook’s Corner we find two broad-billed rollers in a tree. In one of the leafy afrits I notice a big bird fly into a tree. “I think it’s a hornbill,” I say “but there is something different about it.” It turns out to be a trumpeter hornbill. He is sitting on the trunk above a hole and clearly feeding his wife! We watch in fascination for a while and he poses beautifully for pictures.

At Crooks’Corner we find two beautiful giant kingfishers, a fish eagle flies by and EEC sees him fly with a fish into some thick foliage. We observe him with our binoculars but photography is impossible.

Other interesting birds are white-fronted lapwings and white-fronted bee-eaters.

A hippo rests in the shallows.

And the crocodiles laze on the sunny bank. One looks particularly scary.

On the way home a huge tusker appears and makes EEC nervous when he comes right up close to the car before crossing behind us.

We arrive back at Punda at 3 o’clock and sit on our stoop to watch birds and other visiting creatures. This mongoose pops up to say hello

In the late afternoon we walk around the camp and visit the hide. There are some impala and buffalo having a drink then a troop of elephants arrive and enjoy themselves in the mud. Just as the light fades dozens of double banded sandgrouse fly in – too bad the light was not good enough to digitally capture them.

SATURDAY 22 OCTOBER 2011 PUNDA MARIA
We make an early start this morning and are on the road by quarter past six. We have not gone far when EEC callsout – Hyena – and there on the side of the road we see him on what looks like a very old carcass of a nyala. We watch him tear at it for a while and then he drags it off and out of sight.

Our first birds are yellow-fronted canaries and as usual where we see one species many come along to join in the fun. A green pigeon tries to hide from us

The yellow-bellied greenbul is not shy

The orange-breasted bushrike teases us with his beautiful call but as soon as we spot him and aim our cameras he flits off before we can take the shot.
This is the area for broad-billed roller and today with the skies being clear we see quite a few of them showing their colours to perfection.

Some birds, though, just love to show off and are not at all camera-shy. A wahberg’s eagle next to a nest catches our attention when he cries out and his mate comes to join him. She stomps in the nest for a few seconds then alights onto the branch next to him. The nest now ready, they decided it is time to do what is needed to be done before an egg or two can be hatched. Afterwards we are delighted to watch a clear show of affection as they kiss and preen each other.

Not long after this exciting stop we find a martial eagle perched high in a tree.

It is good to see groups of animals gathered together in some areas – large groups of kudu, impala and nyala, huge herds of buffalo and elephant and families of warthog among them all. We found one particularly big family of mom, dad and six piglets.

We returned to camp at half past 10 and find a mother and juvenile marabou stork near the staff compound.

We decide to rest during the midday heat. We have a lovely outlook from our cottage and get many feathered visitors. We sit outside relaxing and downloading photographs while grabbing the camera now and then to snap a bird or creature. Last night we had a nagapie, duiker and civet pop in while we were eating supper on the deck.
We go out again at 4 and enjoy some good birding and game viewing. It is fun to find a varied group of species in a clearing dominated by a large tree. Baboons are foraging, feeding their babies and watching their children climb and tumble. 

Nyala and Kudu shared a meal of delicious leaves, impala grazed nearby while their young gambol and play, full of the joys of spring.
Our afternoon highlights are a green-winged pytilia who shows nicely and allows a reasonable portrait to be taken.

Later this red-crested korhaan appears at the side of the road.

I make spaghetti bolognaise for dinner and tomorrow we say goodbye to Punda and make our way to Mopani.

There was a thunderstorm in the night and this morning it is still overcast with the threat of rain.

We leave camp at 6:00 an our first bird of the day is a marabou stork on top of a tree.

At 7:00 we take one of those little afrits that have a view over the river, is beautifully wooded and gives the opportunity to observe all kinds of beautiful birds.  Four ground hornbills strut along the bank .

Ground Hornbill

Then the party begins and the Cape Town physios, chiropractors and myosiopractitioners are going to be very busy when we return with stiff necks, sore backs, displaced hips and sciatica.   But it will be worth it – we watch the green woodhoepoes scurrying up and down the tree trunks and village weavers brighten up the scene with their brilliant yellow feathers. A cardinal woodpecker pecks busily looking for tasty wood-dwelling morsels and an orange-breasted bushrike appears in his splendor but refuses to sit still for a photo shoot.   Klaas’s Cuckoo calls out tantalizingly and finally Earlybird finds him and we get lovely views.   The light is not condusive to good photography but we don’t mind – just seeing the birds is enough for us.

Further along we are delighted to observe two yellow-billed hornbills apparently preparing a hole in a tree for occupation.  They both collect mud from a nearby puddle, fly to the hole and push the mud in.   Presumably, when the female is ready she will go into the hole and seal herself in, lose all her feather and rely on Dad to bring her nourishment till the chicks fledge.

Y.B. Hornbills preparing nest

At 9 o’clock we are watching yellow witogies, a paradise flycatcher, black-headed oriole, red-collared barbet,  and green woodhoepoes when a car pulls up beside us – Its another Sanparks Forum member and we exchange greetings and discuss sightings.

And then we bump into our cousin and her new baby.

The white-fronted bee-eaters are everywhere and so photogenic.

At 10:50 we arrive at Shanoa Look-out. EEC goes to the loo and returns to say they are in a horrible state.  That’s a pity because we’ve never found the long-drops a problem before – they’re always kept clean and serviced regularly.   Hopefully this is a one-off where for some reason things have become briefly out of control.

We get back to Shingwedzi at midday and decide on a few hours rest time.   We have a snack lunch and Earlybird has a nap while H2, EEC and I sit outside and observe the local wildlife.   We make a good list of birds.   Glossy starlings, brubrus, Go Away birds, Yellow-throated petronias (bathing in a puddle), southern black tit, yellow-billed, red-billed and grey hornbills.

Yellow-throated petronia bathing

The Caravelle departs for the afternoon drive at half past three.  Once again we visit an  area near the river which is well-wooded and green and we find lovely birds.  At Kan Nie Dood Hide we see saddle-billed stork, Goliath Heron, greenshank and yellow-billed storks.  Hippos are wallowing and crocodiles look frightening as they lay on the river bank.

We continue our drive and stop to take wonderful photographs of two brown-headed kingfishers.  Imagine our delight when they kiss each other and then mate right in front of us.

Mating Kingfishers

Before arriving at camp we find a terrapin crossing the road.

Ray and Colette  come for drinks and we spend a very pleasant evening with them.   We chat about our two countries (they’re from New Jersey) and we are thrilled that they enjoy South Africa and our national parks enough to return year after year.   Lovely to meet you Ray and Colette!

We are all packed and ready to go by 6:00 this morning.   The first birds of the day are little swifts flying overhead then black headed oriole, brown-hooded kingfisher and  white-backed vultures

It is an overcast, cool day making driving the long distance to Shingwedzi quite pleasant.  Our plan is to stop at Mopani for breakfast between 9 and 10 depending on how much we see to delay us.   We make regular stops to observe the usual zebra, giraffe, elephant and buffalo.   l I remind my companions that we are in yellow-billed ox-pecker area and that their preferred client is the buffalo.   “I can see one with a red bill and yellow tip,” pipes up Eec.   Ha – that’s it!   And it is the only one among all the red-billed lot.  He flies up into a tree for a perfect portrait.

Yellow-billed ox-pecker

Further on we stop to observe an non-descript bird, and argue as to the likelihood of it being  is Sabota Lark.  Definitely a Sabota says H2 and Earlybird and I agree and prepare to move on.  “Hang on a minute,” says Eek in a  perfectly calm voice – “I can see a leopard in a tree!”

“You can’t,” come three disbelieving voices making a rapid 180   “What, where, are you sure!”   Yes of course she’s sure!   You can’t mistake a leopard in a tree!   It is about 250m from the road but oh so clear through our binoculars. She is languishing lazily on a branch and givese us a disdainful stare.   Eagle-Eye Carrol, you’ve earned your stripes,” I proclaim. – “You mean spots,” quips H2.   EEC is not amused.

Leopard in tree

All this adrenalin and it is only half past nine!    A more calming sighting of a small herd of tsesebe with some zebra and wildebeest settle us down before we arrive at Mopani for breakfast at 10 o’clock.

Tsebe and baby

What a lovely restaurant this is, and the health breakfast – muesli and fruit salad in tall glass – is highly recommended.

We take  our time and then browse in the shop which seems quite well stocked  and decide that on our return from Punda we will enjoy spending two nights here.

The next leg of the trip has us enjoying wonderful birdlife and we see a bateleur flying overhead, different francolins foraging busily on the side of the road, puff-backs flitting and calling their clicking call but refusing to pose for a portrait and red-headed weavers among other birds working busily in the trees.

Elephants, giraffe, zebra and buffalo are once again in evidence but no cats and no rhino.

A little steenbok stops us in our tracks when we observed him eating bark from a tree – is if for toothache or some other medicinal reason?

For a while there is not much to see so we chat while constantly checking the bush for the flick of a tail or the twitch of an ear.   Earlybird brakes and points up and there in an abandoned nest of some or other large bird is a Vereaux’s Eagle Owl.   And to our delight we could see the baby’s head peeping over the top of the twigs.  Perfect rented accommodation for the owls.

Just before arriving at Shingwedze we come across a big troop of ellies drinking in the river.  Then a large herd of buffalo starts coming down the bank to join them – what will  happen now – there isn’t  much room.  Well – the elephants politely make way for them and saunter off to their left and soon disappear leaving the buffs to enjoy a communal drink.   There is civility in nature.

At Shingwedzi check in is quick and smooth and we are assigned Cottage A29.   It is a little on the small side and a better option might have been two smaller huts with outside kitchens as the stoeps have low walls which make sitting outside somewhat cozier.  But we’re not complaining  – just being in Kruger is enough for us.

Today I declare Monday a day of rest.   Earlybird is whacked.   He insists on doing all the driving both from home to the park and in the park too.   He stresses when I drive so I just give in and allow him to be in control and then try and make everything else as easy as possible.   Of course he doesn’t like to be still and if he’s awake he just wants to get out there and find the critters!

So this morning we sleep in late.  My sister-in-law now to be known as Eec – (Eagle Eyed Carrol) and I wake first and have a cup of coffee. When H2 emerges we go for a walk along the path next to the river.  It is a cool and overcast day – not great for photography but we manage.

We didn’t get far because of all there is to see.  Saddle-billed storks, yellow-billed storks and a little egret are  busy in the shallow water among the reeds.

Immature Saddle-billed Stork and Yellow-billed Stork

We spend ages watching them and other little birds that make  appearances from time to time.  Eventually my battery decides it has had enough and we return to the cottage for breakfast.  It is after 9 and Earlybird is relaxing on the stoop with his cereal and a cup of coffee.    At 10:00 we pile into the Caravelle and head along the H1-6 and take a loop.  First bird up is a yellow-billed kite then looking down on the river we spot a saddle-billed stork and a Great White Egret – two wonderful birds to start our drive.

The very first time I saw kudu females grazing silently in the early morning soft light I fell in love with them and that feeling has never faded.  So seeing them over and over again is always a thrill.  I just love their wise eyes and milk moustaches.

At first it looks like there is nothing to see when we stop on the bridge – Earlybird wants to drive on but we persuaded him to let us out for a leg-stretch and then we startto see things….. Eec draws our attention to a giant kingfisher whose head is poking out from under the bridge.  There are four pied kingfishers busily hovering and diving and catching tiny fish.

Kingfisher Couple

The Giant appears and is immediately mobbed and chased from their territory.

Giant Kingfisher under the bridge

A single immature jacana is foraging on his own, a woodsandpiper struts about and a three banded plover looking as handsome as ever makes a brief appearance.

Juvenile Jacana

We move on and do the Engelhard loop.  There were stretches of nothing interspersed with the usual impala, zebra and kudu but none in huge numbers.  We were surprised in fact to find herd animals, singly, or in groups of less than five.  Perhaps when you live in close proximity to others of your species you need some alone time to reflect, look inward and find yourself?   But then again perhaps not – after all don’t they gather together for protection? No time for reflection when a lion is on your tail.

Birds as usual were our focus and we were not disappointed.   The route we took was green, wooded and near the river most of the wayWe found many bee-eaters, an osprey, jacana, squacco heron, white-browed scrub-robin, fish eagle, long-billed crombec and a sabota lark.

Kudu, elephant, buffalo, hippos and zebra also made frequent appearances.

At Matabeni Hide we find jacana, crocodiles and hippos and little else.

We return to camp for lunch and a rest then go out again at 4 o’clock.    It is a short and rewarding drive.   Chugging along slowly in a wooded area with lots of little “afrits” I keep my eyes up and scan the trees.    “Stop! Vereaux’s Eagle Owl,” I call.   This involves reversing and neck stretching and disbelief – where – I can’t see anything – you’re imagining things.   “There,” I insist – look behind that green leaf, in that crook of branch – no you’re looking in the wrong place – wait there’re two of them.”   Eventually I get everyone to find the place and Earlybird manoeveres the car into the perfect position so that we all got a perfect view of a Vereaux’s eagle holding prey in his talons.

Vereaux's Eagle-owl

Oh wow – what a sighting – we guess it is a francolin – amazing as owls usually eat their prey whole but this chap is tearing it piece by piece and devouring it.

Feasting on a francolin

The photograph frenzy goes on for ages and we are the only car observing for quite a while – when others come we point out the two owls, folk look for a few seconds then take off, probably saying – strange people these bird nerds!  But boy do we have fun.   In order for H2 to get her fair share of good shots we swap places without getting out of the car – quite a feat for two ladies past their prime! I find that if I lie on the back bench of the caravel I can get quite a good view but while I am there I hear – knock knock knock and there next to my window is a Cardinal Woodpecker tapping into a tree.   Two good spots for the price of one!

Moving on to a view of the river we find white-faced ducks and little bee-eaters.

White-faced ducks

And just before getting back to camp we come across a lone elephant right next to the road.  We always treat ellies with respect but do not admit to Eec that we’re afraid of them.  She is quite sure they charge at the slightest provocation – or without!   Don’t go to close, Brother.   Careful he’s going to charge”   Don’t worry – he won’t we assure her then – an outlet of breath through the trunk, a stamp of the foot and a slight mock charge.  A collective intake of breath in the car then a burst of nervous laughter as Earlybird puts his foot down.

Sunday 16 October 2011

I won’t go into too much detail about the build up to our departure from Cape Town to The Kruger National Park – but “Drama” reared her head and increased the tension and mad rush that always goes along with getting organised for a major trip.   But by 6 ‘clock the day before we left a driver’s window had been fitted, the shopping was done, a back treatment enjoyed, my classroom was ready for take-over and most of the packing ready to be loaded into the vehicle.  Just one thing left for me to do – get to school and Prompt the final performance of Terry Pratchett’s “Maskerade”.   I am delighted to report that it went off superbly and no-one fluffed their lines – or if they did they covered up to perfection.  But did I sleep well? -Of course not – I was like a kid before Christmas and if I got 2 hours shut-eye it was a lot.  I was up and out of bed by 3:15, got the food packed into the cool box, the last minute items into the car and then I woke my darling husband and sister-in-law and we were off to collect Heather an hour later.

It was overcast and cool in Cape Town – we had some rain en route but totally dry from Worcester onward. Lots of stop/goes meant we only arrived at our B&B in Bloemfontein @ 4 o’clock – but what a lovely comfortable place. Heather and I went for stroll, saw many birds in the lovely gardens of Universitas and then returned, sat in our hostess’s garden and watched Orange River Witogies, olive and Karoo thrush,  red-eyed bulbuls and others come to the feeding table and bath in the birdbath.    Mr. Delivery then brought dinner and after a relaxing meal and glass of wine we were all in bed before 9:-)

4:00 a.m. found us back on  road and this time there were fewer delays.  We stopped for breakfast at a One-Stop Wimpy and then again for a leg stretch at a place where you could see buffalo and rhyno at a waterhole  from a lookout behind glass.

Our route took us past Dullstroom and The Blyde River Canyon – which was greatly enjoyed. But when we entered Palaborwa Gate at 2:15 p.m. I was in heaven.   KNP – its my most  favourite place in the world.  I can’t describe the feeling I get when I pass though her gates – but she welcomes me and I am  at peace.

Earl’s sister is our reluctant companion along with Heather (who is not at all reluctant!)   Carrol loves animals and lives on the Mountain-side of Miller’s Point where many creatures visit her fynbos garden and for years we’ve been trying to persuade her and her husband to come with us to Kruger.  This time our fourth couldn’t make it and so we invited Carrol – she refused but Vere persuaded her and so she reluctantly agreed.  I think, today, she’s glad she did.

Its 50km from the gate to Letaba – the speed limit on tar is 50km per hour.  We managed 11km in the first hour due to the many stops we made to see buffalo – our first mammal -even before impala – elephant, warthogs, zebra and also impala.   But it was the birds that kept us stopping most of the time.   We got a beautiful tawny, a Wahlberg’s next to his nest and a martial albeit too far for a decent photograph.  We also saw a bateleur at a distance.   The little birds were everywhere – blue waxbills, golden-breasted buntings, a female indigo bird, lots of glossy starlings, yellow-billed hornbills and go-away birds.

Tawny Eagle

Lilac-breasted Roller

Golden-breasted Bunting

Young Ellie

And these are all the pics I’m going to show you as it takes ages downloading when using your phone as a modem and I need to get out there and see the critters!