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An Adventure Abroad – In Flanders Fields The Poppies Blow

In Flanders Field

The poppy seed can lay dormant in undisturbed soil for many years but the minute the soil becomes disturbed it is the first flower to grow up quickly and bloom.  This is what happened after everything was destroyed on many of the battle fields.  I quote one of the most beautiful war poems written by Lieutenant Colonel John Mc Crae, a surgeon attached to the 1st Field Artillery Brigade.  He spent seventeen dreadful days treating injured men in the Ypres salient. The death of his young friend and former student, Lieut. Alexis Helmer had a particular effect upon him.  There was no chaplain present so the doctor conducted the funeral ceremony himself.   The next day, sitting on the back of an ambulance. he looked out and saw the poppies blowing in the nearby cemetery and he penned this famous and apt poem.

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead.    Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

Ypres – Menen Gate Memorial

Menen Gate Memorial

Menen Gate Memorial

Today Nicholas and I travelled to Ypres in Belgium and visited the Menen Gate Memorial which commemorates over 7500 missing in the Flanders Sector. Every soldier who fought there marched through the original gate which stood where the memorial stands now.  At 8 o’clock every evening the traffic is stopped by a group of firemen who play the last post which is followed by a 2 minute silence.  This has been a solemn practice since the Memorial was built.  When the Germans invaded the town during World War Two, the trumpets were buried.  When the Germans left they dug them up and the practice began again.

The Cloth Hall

Iconic Building - Mediaeval Cloth Hall

Iconic Building – Mediaeval Cloth Hall

 All the buildings were destroyed during World War 1 but with German reparation the town was rebuilt during the 1920s. One such building was the Mediaeval Cloth Hall above.

St George’s Memorial Church

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St George’s Memorial Church

St George’s Memorial Church was opened in the 1920s to provide a place of worship for the many English gardeners who came to live in Ypres to care for the war cemeteries.   It is filled with memorials to men who paid the extreme sacrifice.

One of the newest memorials is to the soldier who murdered in London by extremists

A memorial to Lee Rigby, Soldier and Drummer who was so senselessly murdered by extremists in London.

Ypres today

Town Square

Town Square

The city of Ypres has a wonderful vibe.  The people are friendly and we communicated with them quite adequately in Afrikaans.   Those of my readers who know me will understand when I say – the coffee is to die for!  Yes it was expensive but each cup comes with a chocolate or a biscuit – and I will gladly pay for a really good cup of hot, strong and black coffee!

The Best Coffee

The Best Coffee

I felt quite special having my coffee served to me so stylishly.

This was where we first had coffee and apple or cherry pie and later lunch.

This was where we first had coffee and apple or cherry pie and later lunch.

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Soup for me ham baguette for Nick

In Flanders Field Museum

A Call Up Poster

A Call Up Poster

New to Ypres is  In Flander’s Field  Museum.   It occupies the second floor of The Cloth Hall.  I found the exhibits moving and there was no glorification of war.  Rather one was shown both sides of the story. There were videos and hologram presentations that told movingly told the real story of war.

 War Cemeteries

Calais Southern Cemetery

Calais Southern Cemetery

Nicholas and I reluctantly left Ypres to complete the last part of our Battlefield Tour.   We have a great-uncle buried in the Calais Southern Cemetery.   Nicholas explained to me how all the Commonwealth War Cemeteries were constructed. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission was established in 1917 and this is what they decided to do about fallen soldiers.

  • They used the services of the great architects of the time – Sir Reginald Blomfield, Sir Edward Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker as well as Gertrude Jekyll, a prominent landscape gardener – to design the cemeteries of World War One.
  • Each grave has a uniform headstone with the regiment badge on top, a religious symbol e.g. cross or star of David, or none at all.  At the bottom the family could if they wished have an inscription added.
  • Those fallen had to be buried where they fell.
  • The cemeteries were from the outset intended to be democratic and non sectarian.
  • Each cemetery has a War Cross and a War Stone in the shape of an alter.
  • Kipling chose the inscription on the war stone and it is taken from the book of Ecclesiasticus Chapter 44 – Their name liveth forevermore.
The Jews put stones on their graves as they represent an altar

The Jews put stones on their graves as an altar is a pile of stones and this represents a sacrifice to God.

Great-Uncle William Kenney fought in Rouen on The Somme.   He was wounded and treated in the Casualty Clearing Station then transferred to a hospital train en route to The Fifth South African Military Hospital in Surrey, England. Because he became so ill on the train he was taken off at Calais and transferred to the Red Cross Hospital where he later died.  He is the only South African buried in the Calais Southern Cemetery.  Nicholas and I feel privileged that we have been able to visit his grave. His mother and sister (our grandmother) never had the opportunity.

Nicholas laid a wreath and I flowers on Uncle WIlliam's grave.

Nicholas laid a wreath and I flowers on Uncle WIlliam’s grave.

Ferry Crossing to Dover

We had a luxurious crossing in the Club Class lounge on a modern ferry leaving at 8:30 p.m.   I felt so posh being served with a complimentary glass of champagne and snacks from the bar.  There was no queueing for food but a menu presented and delicious food ordered.  Coffee was on the house.  We had newspapers to read and not rowdy children or teenagers to disturb our peace!

On the way over I did not get to see The White Cliffs of Dover but this time the sun came out specially and showed me a good view of them.  After visiting war memorials the words of Vera Lynn rang in my head.

There’ll be bluebirds over
The white cliffs of Dover,
Tomorrow, just you wait and see.

I’ll never forget the people I met
braving those angry sky’s
I remember well as the shadows fell
the light of hope in thier eyes
and though I’m far away I still can hear them say
Sun’s up 
for when the dawn comes up

There’ll be bluebirds over
The white cliffs of Dover,
Tomorrow, just you wait and see.

There’ll be love and laughter
And peace ever after.
Tomorrow, when the world is free

The shepherd will tend his sheep.
The valley will bloom again.
And Jimmy will go to sleep
In his own little room again.

There’ll be bluebirds over
The white cliffs of Dover,
Tomorrow, just you wait and see.

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Oh yes – Our World is Free!  Let us hope that the lessons of the past learned through these memorials and stories can keep us free forever.

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An Adventure Abroad – Exploring The Great War

My brother is passionate about all things historic but his great passion is the Two World Wars.  To have him as my own personal guide has indeed been a privilege.  He knows the intimate details of the battles and the regiments that fought them.   He expounds upon them with enthusiasm and makes it all come alive.   I have found myself quite moved by many of the stories and it has been an incredible experience to actually walk in the trenches where those young men bravely fought for to save us from oppression.

“Theirs was not to reason why theirs was just to do and die!” (Alfred Tennyson – Charge of the Light Brigade)

Millions of young men sacrificed – I fail to take it in.

We went back to Thiepval Memorial today and I watched a video which nicely explained everything about the Battle of The Somme. We then went to have a close look at the Memorial and found the names of the soldiers, who fought and died with Reginald Lack (Nicholas has his portrait)

No Toy-toying allowed.

No Toy-toying allowed.

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I found the name of a missing soldier named J.E. Fenwick.

We found the names of Wright and Radcliffe too and laid crosses down for them. (See previous Blog)

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Me in front of Helen's Tower

Me in front of Helen’s Tower

The Ulster Memorial Tower or Helen’s Tower was our next stop. Helen’s Tower in Clandeboye near Belfast was selected as the most appropriate building to replicate for the monument on the 1916 Somme battlefields.  This was because most of the soldiers of the 36th Ulster Division did their initial training of the Clandeboye estate where the original Helen’s Tower stands. It commemorates the men of Ulster killed in The Great War especially the heavy losses suffered by 36th Division on 1st July 1916, the first day of the Battle of the Somme.

View toward the Delville Wood Memorial

View toward the Delville Wood Memorial

The most moving part of my day was the visit to Delville Wood where many South African soldiers lost their lives.  The memorial was built to commemorate them.  It was designed by Sir Herbert Baker. Above the arch is Alfred Turner’s sculpture of the mythical figures of Castor and Pollux who represent the English and Afrikaans language groups being united. The main inscriptions are in both English and Afrikaans as well as French.

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Above is a replica of the Castle of Good Hope in Cape Town. It was added as a museum in 1984.   Inside there are relief carvings of all the wars fought by South Africans; The Great War, The Second World War and The Korean War. Amongst the exhibits are references to the liberation struggle in South Africa.

Something we were never taught at school was the Tragedy of the SS Mendi. She was a troop ship fully laden with South African Native Labour Corps soldiers.   It was rammed in the English Channel at night during winter and sank.  The Reverend Dyobha exhorted the dying men with these words, “Be quiet and calm my countrymen for what is taking place now is what you came here to do. We are all going to die and that is what we came for.  Brothers, we are drilling the death drill. I a Zulu, say here and now that you are all my brothers, Xhosas, Swazis, Pondos, Basutu and all others, Let us die like warriors.  We are the sons of Africa.  Raise your war cries my brothers for  they made us leave our assegais back in the kraals. Our voices are left with our bodies.”

Most of these brave men drowned.   What a tragic end.

IMG_9928 The relief carving above depicts the desperation of the South Africans on the final day of The Battle of Delville Wood who tried to keep the Germans at bay.   Three thousand South Africans entered the wood on the 15 July 1916 and on 20 July only 131 answered the roll call.

Die Laaste Boom/The Last Tree

Die Laaste Boom/The Last Tree 

All the trees but one were blown to bits except for this Hornbeam, much damaged but still growing.  In the 1920s the wood was given to the South African Government as a permanent memorial and planted with oaks taken from Stellenbosch and Franschoek, towns settled by the French Huguenots in the 1600s who had brought oak seedlings with them from France.

Nicholas walking in one of the trenches

Nicholas walking in one of the trenches

Walking through the new Delville Wood is so peaceful and it is beautifully kept.  It is sobering to know that there are still bones of men blown to bits buried beneath the soil.

The South Africans had two mascots – Jacky the baboon and Nancy the Springbok

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Nancy The Springbok

We went to look at the graves after a peaceful walk through the wood.   I was touched by a wreath placed on a fallen soldier’s grave. He was remembered by his grandson, great-grandson and great-great grandson who had clearly only recently found out about him.

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H Hodd will be remembered and never forgotten by his descendants

Our last visit of the day was to the Vis-En-Artois Memorial where our Great-Uncle Mark Kenney has his name inscribed on a memorial to the missing.

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Vis-En-Artois Memorial

Nicholas and I placed crosses below his name.

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Unfortunately his name is quite high up and faded on the right at the top

On a lighter note.   I had commented to Nicholas that I thought we’d see rabbits or hares in France as I had once seen them coming into Charles de Gaulle Airport – Low and behold Nicholas spotted the most adorable hare hiding behind a gravestone.

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 A French Hare

Later we went to La Grande Place in Arras and had a delicious French meal at a very expensive restaurant and ate unpronounceable food.   I know mine was Foie gras to start followed by Veal in a delicious mushroom sauce.

Le Rapier

Our Restaurant

Town Hall Tower

Hotel de Ville

The Town Hall tower was beautifully lit up.

I am not in France to see birds or wild life but the hare was special and the evening finished with this French Thrush posing nicely in the car park of our hotel.

A Thrush of some sort I think

A Thrush of some sort I think

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An Adventure abroad – Ferry Crossing from Dover to Calais and The Battle of The Somme

We thought we might grab a few hours of sleep after entertaining yesterday but what with it being light till late we only ended up with a half hour catnap.  At midnight we were packed and ready to hit the road to Dover.   Nicholas being the super organised OCD brother that he is had the route set on the Satnav and snacks atnd drinks at the ready.  Just before we arrived at Dover an SMS alerted us that our Ferry had been cancelled!  Luckily we were in plenty of time and managed to book onto an earlier one.   BUT – at that time of the morning the club class lounge was closed!  Hopefully we’ll get a refund!

So we had to slum it in steerage!   Our closest travelling companions were a class of 42 twelve year olds on an educational tour to Germany!   We were impressed with their behaviour and the teacher was clearly pleased when we told her so!

Steerage

Steerage

Nick on board

Nick on board

I'm going to France!

I’m going to France!

The crossing took an hour an half to Calais and we were soon on our way to Arras.  Monday is not a good day to look for a breakfast place in France as nothing opens till 10. We had to settle for a Subway where we had coffee and a choc chip cookie.

La Grande Plas

La Grande Plas – Arras

We were not lucky with the weather today and in spite of it being 1 July we experienced low “Cape Winter” temperatures.

On 1 July 1916 at 07:28 The Battle of the Somme started on a Five Mile Front. The aim of the British Troops consisting mainly of soldiers of the 36 Ulster Division  was to break through the German lines and defeat the German army. It was also hoped that this attack would help the French army which had been under a strong German attack at Verdun. The first Battle of the Somme was the bloodiest and most costly unsuccessful Allied offensive on the Western Front during World War I. General Douglas Haig, the commander of the British troops was highly criticized because he carried on with the battle when 24,000 people had alredy died in one day!  The Battle ended on 13 November 1916.

Today being the anniversary of the first day of this battle, Nicholas and I attended a commemoration ceremony at the Memorial in Thiepval. The Thiepval Memorial is the largest of the Memorials to the Missing.

The Thiepval Memorial

The Thiepval Memorial

Nicholas with and Irish Grandfather and his Grandson

Nicholas with Two Orangeman Ulster.  He had the honour of being allowed to wear  Grandpa’s sash!

I found the ceremony very moving.  War is an ugly affair and it’s horrifying to think how many battles were fought and how many people suffered during those times.

The Mayors of the French Villages wear these sashes

The Mayors of the French Villages wear these sashes

The La Tommy restaurant is the only eating place in the area - British food is served
The La Tommy restaurant is the only eating place in the area – British food is served

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Our Lunch - Passable

Our Lunch – Passable

Later we attended another commemoration service at the Ulster(Northern Ireland) Memorial Tower to remember the men of Northern Ireland who died at the Battle of The Somme.  It was lovely to see an Australian Lady dressed up in a nurse’s uniform from that time.

Australian Woman dressed in the nursing uniform of that period

Australian Woman dressed in the nursing uniform of that period

Wreathes were laid and Nicholas put down some Poppy Crosses for 2nd Lieutenant Reginald Lambert Lack,  Lieutenant Matthew John Wright and Lieutenant George Radcliffe who all survived the first day of The Battle of The Somme but on the second day Radcliffe who was Lack's brother in law got into difficulties in no man's land.  Lack and Wright to Radcliffes aid and all three were blown up.  Two were killed instantly Lack lasted 14 days.

Wreaths were laid and Nicholas put down some Poppy Crosses for 2nd Lieutenant Reginald Lambert Lack, Lieutenant Matthew John Wright and Lieutenant George Radcliffe who all survived the first day of The Battle of The Somme but on the second day Radcliffe who was Lack’s brother in law got into difficulties in no man’s land. Lack and Wright went to Radcliffes aid and all three were blown up. Two were killed instantly and Lack lasted 14 days. Radcliffe and Wright’s names are on the Thiepval Memorial but as Lack died on the hospital ship in Dover, he is buried in his home parish in Thames Ditton in Surrey. Nicholas has the portrait of Lack which he has  researched.  Through it he got to know his family.

Portrait of Reginald Lambert Lack

Portrait of Reginald Lambert Lack

It was 5 0’clock when we got to our hotel in Arras – The Balladin and we crashed for an hour.   We are now going out for a proper French meal!

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An Adventure Abroad – Sunday at Home

Tonight’s blog will be a short one.  There was no rushing off to see the sights as Nicholas invited friends round for a late lunch.   Nicholas is a wonderful cook and would only let me do the menial chores while he got stuck into the serious business of creating a gourmet dish – roasted chicken portions, yellow rice and raisins, green beans and carrots served with a choice of homemade Satay Sauce, homemade tomato sauce and/or gravy.

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Nicola had just entered a gymnastics competition. She won a bronze medal. Well done Nicola!

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Jessica is twelve and going through to the finals in an orators’ contest tomorrow. Her subject “Should the world become like the EU” Definitely not she said and has some good points to back up her opinion.

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Enjoying the fruits of Nicholas’s labours. The dinner was huge success in spite of frustrating problems with a temperamental oven now fixed – thanks to Guy!

It was really good getting to know these really good friends of Nicholas.  The girls were charming, helpful and beautifully behaved.   Diane and Guy good company making it a really lovely relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Nicholas and I are now preparing to leave for Dover at Midnight.  So perhaps it is time for me to have a cat nap before we go.

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An Adventure Abroad – Swanning it in Chelsea

It was an early start this morning.  I was up at 7 and after a nice strong cup of Nescafe made expertly by Dick I was ready to make my way to Stoneley Station.  But Dick insisted on driving me so I was in plenty of time for the 8:20 train to Clapham Junction.  My beautiful pregnant niece, Martine and her handsome husband, Craig collected me at the drop and go.   Little Olivia – my gorgeous three-year-old great niece looked me up and down as I settled myself next to her in the back seat.    It took a while – a very short while – before her tongue loosened and we got to know each other.

Bluebird Cafe, Kings Road, Chelsea was our destination and I was treated to a delicious breakfast of Eggs Royale.   It wasn’t raining so we sat outside and enjoyed the vibes of London.   Our Italian waitress asked for our drinks order and when I said black coffee she offered Americana – I don’t want American or British coffee, I said. I am Italian, she replied – I know how you want your coffee and I shall bring you good coffee!   And she did!

Olivia at Bluebird Cafe

Olivia at Bluebird Cafe

I informed Olivia of our relationship and she took it all in with serious consideration.  Is Bumpy (grandpa) your big brother?  Yes.  You’re Aunty Tana.  No, Aunty Tana is my sister.   During the morning she progressed from calling me Aunty Tana to Aunty Telen and finally emphasising the H to Aunty Hhhelen.

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Martine, Olivia and Me at Bluebird Cafe

The Italian Waitress who got my coffee right - twice!

The Italian Waitress who got my coffee right – twice!

After breakfast Craig went off to do some things in the area and Martine drove us to a nearby shopping area.  She found a place to park and we walked and popped into shops and I really got the feel of Chelsea.   Little Olivia certainly knows how to shop.  She picked out two bathing costumes – one a blue bikini – the other the cutest pink full piece.  The pink one is for me – my new brother can have the blue one.  She looked at the price – only 20 pounds she guessed.   She can’t read but she was almost spot on.  She wanted to go into every single shop and Mom had to tell her it really wasn’t necessary.   She picked out the best of everything but did not fuss when Mom wouldn’t buy anything.

We browsed around Duke of York Square which is just lovely.   It is light and quiet and removed from the hussle and bussle, has benches and fountains and places to sit and eat in a relaxed atmosphere.  There is also a market next to it where all kinds of exotic foods are sold.

Olivia was thirsty and said Mom get some water for your daughter please.  Water for your daughter.

I spotted the Mary Quant shop and while they went in search of water for the daughter I popped in and popped right out with a smart top – half its normal price!   See if you can spot me wearing it in a later post!

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Me in Duke of York Square, Chelsea - with my only ever designer purchase

Me in Duke of York Square, Chelsea – with my only ever designer purchase

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Olivia taking a break

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Having fun with the fountain

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It’s cold and wet

Martine and Craig are based in Spain but are in England for the birth of the new baby.   While here they stay in a flat in Battersea with view over the Thames – How cool is this – there is a helipad nearby and theie comings and goings provide endless entertainment.

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View from the Battersea Flat

At the flat I handed over the parcel from ‘Nanny’ –  a treasure trove of baby clothes etc. And some sweeties for Olivia who couldn’t wait to tuck into them!

Thank you Craig and Martine for a very entertaining morning.    How wonderful it was to bond with Olivia.   She is a delight and I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know her.  All the very best with the new addition – I am sure he is going to bring you just as much joy as your daughter does.

On Monday Nicholas and I are going to take the Ferry to Arras.  This afternoon we went shopping for a few things we will need and to get supplies for a lunch party for friends tomorrow.  I was intrigued to find a mounted policeman.

Policeman on Horseback

Policeman on Horseback

Nicholas has foxes regularly visiting his garden.  I caught a glimpse of one the other evening but it was too dark for a photograph.   He never feeds them as they are a real nuisance but specially for me he thought he’d throw out a bone to see if they would come – not a chance – but some cheeky birds did!

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A Jackdaw enjoying roast lamb

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A standoff between a gull and a blackbird

I will try to post again tomorrow night – but we aim to get some sleep before getting the ferry at midnight – so perhaps Monday would be more realistic.   Thanks for reading everyone.  Please comment if you can.

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An Adventure Abroad – The Embankment and The London Eye

It is late, I know, but this is the first opportunity I have had to get to my computer to blog. I have had an awesome day. It was cold and wet this morning and I decided not to go off touring till it was time to meet up with Paddy. As I dragged my trolly bag behind me while holding an umbrella to protect myself from the raindrops I couldn’t help marvelling. I was doing this with a smile on my face and enjoying the adventure. I wouldn’t dream of jumping onto public transport at home at the best of times and certainly not with an overnight bag in the rain!

I arrived at Waterloo before Paddy, dropped my bag at left luggage after it was scanned, the laptop examined and I was interrogated by the official behind the counter. It was worse than checking in at the airport! I waited at Costa’s Coffee Shop and drank an expensive Americano from a paper cup. It was supposed to be small – but it was huge and not worth the 1 pound 90 pence I paid for it. I am fussy about coffee – it has to be just right. Everybody else seemed to think theirs was okay. Next time I’ll try the double espresso.

When Paddy arrived we started our walk along the embankment. She had never done the London Eye so agreed to go on it with me. We are both poop scared of flying and heights but thought it was compulsory to go on the thing at least once! The queue was long but moved quickly and before we knew it we were leaping into a moving capsule and floating gently in the London Sky. It was terrific. I took out my camera – oops no memory card – I’d left it in my computer – at Left Luggage! So I had to rely on photographs from Paddy’s Iphone.

From the London Eye

While we were up in the air we caught sight of Paddy’s daughter, Jeanette who waited for us to join her below. She couldn’t believe we’d managed to negotiate the queues so quickly – sometimes they are hours long.

The walk along the embankment is lovely – something like the Waterfront at home but on a larger scale. The River is a hive of activity and there is a constant flow of people. There are lots of eating places, buskers and something to see at every turn. We watched a girl creating enormous bubbles with a huge contraption she waved skilfully. The metallic mimes were intriguing people by sitting comfortably on thin air and buskers played tuneful music. Suddenly a familiar face appeared and she said, You’re someone I know from South Africa. We were both puzzled as to how we knew each other but it dawned on us almost at the same time. It was Lindy, a colleague from FHPS in the eighties. What were the chances! We walked together and had a long chat before she had to go in another direction.

Lindy and Me

Lindy and Me

We then joined Dan and Lindsay and their friends Karen and Martin in a lovely London Pub – I recognised Karen and her daughter, Tala – she is in Joshua’s class at school. Karen and Lindsay are friends and Karen knows Lauren. They are on holiday and staying with Lindsey and Dan.

Paddy and Me

Paddy and Me

Jeanette and me

Jeanette and me

After enjoying a half pint and a chat we headed to the Borough Market. (By now Dan had obtained a memory card for me.) The market is amazing. There are so many stalls selling all kinds of food products from all over the world. Speciality stores have nothing on what you can find here.

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Even Earl would have been impressed with the freshness of the fish

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Cured meats and salamis from Austria –

When we’d finished exploring the Market we all headed for London Bridge tube and returned to Waterloo. The others went straight to their trains and Paddy and I followed after I picked up my luggage. It was a half hour trip to Stoneleigh and a short walk to Paddy’s house – once again dragging a trolley bag and holding up a brolly.

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I sampled the Alpine biltong – a rather smoky flavour – not like our South African variety but pleasant enough.

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Paddy and Lindsay got some potted pates.

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The biltong starved ex-pats get stuck into Lindsay’s stash

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Paddy’s Kitchen and Rooibos Tea

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The Lovely Garden

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They managed to fit most of their furniture from home into a much smaller space

I am amazed at how economical the British are with space. Their houses are far smaller than ours yet you don’t seem to miss the room. Everything is well planned and of course makes for less housework – a blessing when you have to do it all yourself.

We joined the kids at Lindsay and Dan’s and sat outdoors to enjoy the delicacies bought from the market. Delicious. In spite of the weather being slightly chilly there was no wind so sitting outside was actually quite pleasant.

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I came all the way to London to sip some Fish Hoek Wine

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Enjoying our supper alfresco

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Dan and Lindsay getting romantic

What a stunning evening. How lovely to enjoy delicious food and wonderful wine with such warm and friendly people. Thank you Paddy, Dick, Lindsay and Dan for being so kind, hospitable and welcoming.

We returned to Paddy and Dick’s where I spent the night.

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An Adventure Abroad – Bond Street, Covent Garden, Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour and a River Cruise

Apologies for not posting last night.  I did make a start but I was exhausted and couldn’t keep my eyes open so decided to put out the light and do a double post today!

Wednesday 26 June 2013

It was another late night and I only woke up after 7.  By the time I was up Nicholas had already left for work.  Yes – I was a little nervous to be left to my own devices in a strange city abroad.  Covent Garden seemed a good idea so I googled which lines I had to take and it was all an absolute piece of cake.   Before heading to Covent Garden though, I strolled up and down Bond Street and checked out all the sales.  I was tempted but in the end didn’t buy a thing!

I might go back the

A wonderful world of fantasy

The Disney Shop is fasciating

The Disney Shop is fascinating

Fenwick's of Bond Street

Fenwick’s of Bond Street

It was about lunch time when I headed to Covent Garden, had a bit at a small pavement cafe – Eggs Florentine which was surprisingly good.  The coffee wasn’t bad either!   On previous trips to England I could not eat in the restaurant but something has changed in 16 years – I haven’t had a bad experience yet!

Covent Garden is just the best place ever.   There is constant entertainment from street mimes and performers and I spent the entire afternoon watching them as well as browsing the stalls.   I wanted to go to the Transport Museum but didn’t get that far.  I will return before I leave this island.

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I have no clue how he manages to do this. Mime at its best

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I wonder if he juggles his time between work and child care?

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An escape artist

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In a flying hurry

Various performers kept me well entertained

Another escape artist

I have never seen a ferret before but today I recognised one sitting on the lap of a man at Covent Garden!  He let me pet it and told me that he has twelve at home. ‘I give them turns to come out with me,’ he said.   He also has a pet monkey – but leaves him at home!

A ferret is this man's best friend.

A ferret is this man’s best friend.

I had to wait a short time to meet Nicholas at the tube station and found a lovely Turkish or Eastern European restaurant.   I didn’t think they’d let me in for just a cup of coffee but the young waitress was most welcoming.   She offered me a Turkish coffee which I haven’t had since my mother used to make it in my teens.   She also showed me an array of pastries and I couldn’t resist the bakalva – which the Greeks love too.

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The Lovely Bosnian Waitress

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Turkish Coffee and Baklava

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The beautiful decor of the restaurant

Nicholas’s friend Steven arrived to stay for a couple of days and we had roast leg of lamb for dinner.

This is not Nicholas's formal table, he told me.  This is how he normally eats.

This is not Nicholas’s formal table, he told me. This is how he normally eats.

Thursday 27 June 2013

Today was awesome.   I went on a tour of London atop a London Bus.  I asked the guide whether it would chilly when the bus moved.  “Where are you from, ” he asked. “South Africa,” I replied.  “Then, yes – it will be chilly.  Feel free to go below if you can’t handle it.”   But for most of the trip it was not too bad at all.  Toward the end I felt a tad under-dressed!   I won’t post pictures as it was difficult taking photographs from a moving bus.  It was just great to get an overview of the city and to hear commentary from a knowledgeable and entertaining guide.   My travelling companions were an extended family of Mexicans – Grandpa and few mothers and plenty of children.   They were a tad loud and the guide had to ask them politely to tone down so that we could hear his commentary.  They took it all in good humour and I didn’t find them intrusive at all.

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My Bus

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A similar bus that we passed

The ticket included a river cruise.   It was very cold and I almost gave it a miss because I thought the boat would be open.  I decided it would be a pity to miss this perfect opportunity and went and bought a ‘London, England’ hoodie and boarded the boat. One could actually sit on top in the open or below with windows that opened.   I chose the latter but was still glad of the extra warmth from my touristy hoodie.

The Thames

The Thames

Our Craft

Our Craft

I was able to get a delicious sandwich (ham, cheese and mustard) and a hot chocolate (awful!) on board.  I sat with a Kiwi couple who were quite friendly and the trip took us to Greenwich.  Once again we had an excellent guide who gave us interesting information about Captain Kidd, The Tower of London, the Cutty Sark and other interesting landmarks along the way.  I won’t bore you with the details.  But when you go to London – don’t miss the River Cruise – it is really well worth it.

I got off the craft at Greenwich, went to see the museum there and then went aboard the Cutty Sark.  The entrance fee is 12 pounds but I got in for 9 pounds and 50 pence because I am a senior!  Still rather expensive but I loved it.

Me at the helm

Me at the helm – picture taken by a friendly New Zealander

By time I was done exploring Greenwich I had to get a bus to North Greenwich Tube Station – quite a distance away.  Isn’t it great that with the Oyster card you can get on the bus or the tube anywhere at any time.   As I boarded the bus a young girl called out – Hey – Today’s my birthday.  “Happy Birthday,” I said, “Are you fifteen?”  “No sixteen,” she said.    She was with two friends and they were in a high state of excitement.  They were off to the movies.  I told them my destination and asked them to help me get off at the right stop.  “No problem – that’s exactly where we’re getting off”  How lucky was that!   They were also excited because exams were over and tomorrow is their Prom!

One of the girls said,”I love your accent.  Where are you from?”  I told her and she was thrilled.  “I knew it,” she said, ” I have family in South Africa!”

Three Gorgeous, Friendly English Girls.

Three Gorgeous, Friendly English Girls – The one on the left has South African family The one in the middle is the birthday girl.  The one on the right has been to Zimbabwe!

 From North Greenwich, I took the tube to Bond Street and went shopping!  I explored all the shops and their fabulous sales but ended up getting a few shirts and t-shirts from Marks and Spencer – definitely the best selection ever!

Nicholas had a tough day today and was held up in a meeting.   I had a coffee and chocolate croissant at the station and then travelled to Neasden and waited for him to catch up to me there.  We then went out for Chinese.  The Spring Roll were divine and I should have just settled for those because I could not do justice to the duck and rice that followed.

More tomorrow!

2

An Adventure Abroad – Checking Jenny into Hospital and Taking the Train

Today Sue collected Jenny and me and we drove to Shelbourne Hospital in High Wycombe.  Jenny was a little nervous but kept positive and Sue and I were glad we could stay with her until she was wheeled to surgery.   I was hugely impressed with the entire medical staff.  Several nurses came in to do various things and were super efficient, professional and friendly.  The anaesthetist explained in detail what would happen, then the surgeon did the same.   The surgeon it turns out is originally from South Africa.   Lastly his registrar came in to check that all was in order and then 2 hours after we arrived Jen was off to finally have all her problems sorted out!

Sue and Jen

Sue and Jen

Shelbourne Hospital Entrance

Shelbourne Hospital Entrance

Jenny receiving excellent care

Jenny receiving excellent care

The doctor promised to call Sue as soon as Jen’s surgery was over and then Sue would call me.

It was almost 4 o’clock when Sue took me to High Wycombe Station.  She insisted on coming with me to get my ticket and find my way to the right platform.

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High Wycombe Station

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Chiltern Railway – Train

Fourteen pounds bought me a ticket from High Wycombe to St Pancras. Catching the train was really no problem at all.  It’s all so civilised in Britain.   No chance of missing your station as it called over the sound system as you arrive.  At Marylebone I got hold of a tube map but was surprised at how small the print was – I’m sure it wasn’t so difficult when I was here 16 years ago!   Or have my eyes dimmed somewhat.   Anyway I managed to work out where I was headed and finally got my self t St Pancrass and Kings Cross.   I found a Starbucks, had a sparkling water, bought more airtime from WH Smith and then called Nicholas to say I was ready to meet him.  10 minutes later after buying an Oyster card we were on our way to Neasden on the Underground. The card cost 5 pounds and the weekly cost for Zones 1,2 and 3 was 35 pounds. I now have the freedom to travel around London at will!

King's Cross

King’s Cross

Nicholas and I went for a curry supper at a genuine Indian Restaurant, Kadiri’s.  It was Halal – so no alcohol.  We had to settle for mineral water and coke. It was outstanding.  We started with pickles and poppadoms.  I loved the lime pickle best.  This was followed by Lamb Rogan Josh with Nam bread.   Totally delicious.  Almost as good as my friend, Niru’s cooking which is to die for, doll.   The cost – 32 pounds for the two of us.   A tad higher than one would pay in South Africa but one must not convert or one will not travel.

We were home by 7:30 and I was worried that I hadn’t heard anything from Sue.  But soon after I messaged her she phoned.  The surgery had been long and difficult but it had all been keyhole so no big wound to contend with.   The surgeon was confident that all will be well.   Such a relief.

As I blog Nicholas is sorting out our trip to Arras. We will be going across on the ferry on Monday 1 July and returning Wednesday 3 July.   It is going to be a real adventure – can’t wait!

0

An Adventure Abroad – Shopping and Bonding!

Today is my grandson Jay’s sixteenth birthday.  He was born here in England and that was when I was last in this country.   I cannot believe that so many years have passed and he is now a young man – a beautiful young man.   God bless you today, God bless you dear Jay, God bless you and keep you, Happy Birthday to you.

Birthday Boy

Birthday Boy

The weather today was as cool as yesterday.  Jennifer, I said, I need to go shopping – I need warm clothes!  Now back home the chances of getting exactly what you want are so limited – I struggle to find clothes that I like – normal, simple, classic styles.  Well, here in England – it must be the land of the classic dresser.  I walked into Marks and Spencer in Aylesbury and could have walked out with the entire shop!   To find just one style of skirt at Woollies at home is a mission – here there were rails of all colours and styles.   All I wanted was a jersey, a long sleeved shirt, leggings and shoes.   I got two jerseys, a long sleeved shirt, leggings and a fleece all within the hour and when I went to the till to pay I got a very pleasant surprise – 20% off the total bill!  To top it all I will be able to claim back the tax too!  The time I took to find these items was worth more than the 88 British pounds spent!

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New cardigan and leggings

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Shirt and long cardigan

The Hoodie

The Hoodie

The shoes at M&S were not quite what I wanted – Clarks however had just the thing.  I splashed out and I think it was worth it – instant and pure comfort!  See pic above.

Jen was a super star bearing with me as I wondered around excitedly grabbing things off the racks.

Representatives of Jenny and Me

Representatives of Jenny and Me

The fitting rooms were an education.  A lovely young woman scanned in the number of items onto a disk, showed me to a cubicle and said, “just ring if you want anything!”  Oh how posh!

Wondering around the shopping centre was so different to our South African malls. Nothing was familiar – it was all so – uh – so British – well yes – I guess I was in Britain!

Benjamin Disraeli

Benjamin Disraeli – Jewish Prime Minister of England  during Victoria’s Reign – 1804 to 1881

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Jen had keys cut at this fascinating cobbler – He would not allow me to photograph him

IMG_9214We returned to Jen’s lovely little house and I had a gourmet sandwich – salmon, ham, salad while she sipped her Ensure drink.  Don’t worry Jen it won’t be long before you are back on normal food!

As you know the light lasts late into the night here.   It was time for sundowners well before sunset and Jen introduced me to a variation on the classic Bellini Cocktail  – a glass of white New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with a dash of peach schnapps.  With this I toasted my grandson’s 16th birthday!

Happy Birthday Jay Boy

Happy Birthday Jay Boy

4

An Adventure Abroad – More Historic Trivia and a Reunion

It may be cold and rainy here in England but the light – oh my, the late light!  How disorientating it is – at 9 o’clock it was broad daylight and I thought it was still late afternoon!    That is why I am only now getting down to doing my blog!

This morning Nicholas complained that I had not put nearly enough information about his mini-museum and took me on another expertly guided tour and filled my head with loads of detail about his favourite pieces.   I am now way better informed about our family history, have been down the memory lane of our childhood and ventured into the traditional past of the Royal Family.

My Flag-mad brother has the old SA flag above his bed

My Flag-mad brother has the old SA flag above his bed

He had this reproduction of the first S.A. Union Flag of 1910-1928 custom made

He had this reproduction of the first S.A. Union Flag of 1910-1928 custom made

Favourite Flag - I forget which  one it is but I am sure he will inform me when he reads this blog!

Favourite Flag – The White Ensign – Special to him as he was once a Royal Navy Chaplin

Nicholas is also a boff on the two World Wars and has researched information on our Great Uncles Mark and William Kenney who died serving in the First World War. We also have a third cousin – Cuthbert who died in Egypt in 1918.  Nicholas was unable to source a photograph of his brother William who died in May 1917

Mark Clarence Kenney with his family.   He died in battle in in October 1918

Mark Clarence Kenney with his family. He died in battle in in October 1918

Each of soldier has a memorial scroll such as this one for Mark Kenney.

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The Governor General Flag Union Of South Africa 1931 to 1961

The Governor General Flag Union Of South Africa 1931 to 1961

Earl of Athlone - Governor General 1924 to 1931

Earl of Athlone (husband of Princess Alice) was Governor General of the Union 1924 to 1931

Governor General Flag Union of South Africa 1910 to 1931

Governor General Flag Union of South Africa 1910 to 1931

Our great grandmother had a boarding house in Kimberley.  Cecil John Rhodes was one of her guests.   The story goes that he used to light his cigars with a ten pound note!

Great Granny Kenney received a medal because she was resident in Kimberley when it was under siege.

Kimberley Siege Medal

Kimberley Siege Medal – 1900

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Queen Victoria sent chocolates to soldiers who served in the Boer War – These were presented to Great Grandpa Kenney in 1900.

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Believe it or not they were never eaten – these are the originals – what a waste of good chocolate!

Here follows some photographs of some of Nicholas’s Royal Memorabilia.

Commemoration Plate -Royal Visit to South Africa -1947

Commemoration Plate -Royal Visit to South Africa -1947

Map of the Royal Visit

Map of the Royal Visit

Coronation Cup presented to the People of Port Elizabeth

Coronation Cup presented to the People of Port Elizabeth

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Coronation Stool - for special guest at Elizabeth II coronation 1953

Coronation Stool – for special guest at Elizabeth II coronation 1953

Imagine sitting on this stool for the entire coronation service!

Binoculars dating back to 1900 - as a bird watcher these really fascinate me - they still work

Binoculars dating back to 1900 – as a bird watcher these really fascinate me – they still work

Great Granny Kenney's wick scissors

Great Granny Kenney’s wick scissors

Nicholas and Granny Chimato nee Kenney on the occasion of his baptism 13 March 1960

Nicholas and Granny Chimato nee Kenney on the occasion of his baptism 13 March 1960

Nicholas and Mom when he took her to the Royal Air Force ball - 2005

Nicholas and Mom when he took her to the Royal Air Force Officers’ Ball – 2004

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Gift from a friend when Nicholas was ordained

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Another gift - miniature  designs of South African heritage - African huts, arum lilies, the flag etc.  Has to be seen to be appreciated

Another gift – miniature designs of South African heritage – African huts, arum lilies, the flag etc. Has to be seen to be appreciated

Although it is summer here in the Northern Hemisphere the weather in London was once again the same as it is in Wintery Cape Town so my summer dresses remained packed and I donned jeans and t-shirt and Nicholas drove me to my oldest friend Jenny in Bedfordshire.  

Jen and I have been friends since we were seven years old.   The friendship has survived in spite of the fact that for most of our lives we have lived miles away from each other.  She moved away from Cape Town when her father was transferred to George and she was only 11 years old.   Letters in our childish scrawl were erratically written, a few holiday spent together until we were sixteen and then a a brief loss of contact until I discovered where she was through a girl I met at college in Grahamstown.  What a happy reunion when her parents drove her the 80 miles from Port Elizabeth to visit me and thereafter I spent the odd weekend with them when I could get an off weekend from TC.

I then returned to Cape Town and she moved to Johannesburg.   An erratic correspondence continued until she came to study at UCT for a year just as I was on the brink of divorce from my first husband.  How amazing it was to have her to support me through that!   For one brief term we taught together at Witebome school for the deaf and then she married and was whisked away back to Joburg.   Joy of joys when a few years and two kids later they relocated to Cape Town, stayed ever so briefly and then emigrated to England!  By this time there was email – and so the correspondence became easier and of course we see each other whenever possible and oh boy how Skype has changed our lives!  When somebody is real friend, time and distance have no effect and we just pick up from where we left off as if it were only yesterday that we were together.  Jen and I have supported each other in all our ups and downs through life -and we always will – BFF is not so corny. We are soul mates.  She will be my best friend forever!

Jen is not well and is going in for surgery on Tuesday - but she still look gorgeous

Jen is not well and is going in for surgery on Tuesday – but she still look gorgeous

3

An Adventure Abroad – My Brother’s Mini Museum

Most of you reading my blog do not know my brother so here’s a bit of background.   He is 7 years younger than me and has been living in England since he was 20 years old.  He has therefore become quite the English Gentleman.   He is to say the least a most unusual character and always has been.  From his earliest years he has been mad about all things old.  He collected coins and stamps as a child.  History is his passion and there is little he does not know about both British and South African History and hs is a particular boff on the two World Wars.

To say he is eccentric would be an accurate yet inadequate description of him.  He loves tradition yet he’s.   In some ways he is Obsessive Compulsive but there are areas of mess in his house.   Certainly he is a man of contrasts – deeply religious yet often irreverent.    Part of him adores the military and he misses the camaraderie of men in the forces yet he can’t be controlled and does things his own way.  Definitely he is a man of contrasts – a colourful character indeed.

I find myself now a guest in a mini-museum as in every room, space, nook and cranny there are exhibits of Royal memorabilia,  military medals, badges and trinkets, old bottles, tins, jars, bowls and a variety of other collectables from the past.   He has a room that he’s converted into his own private chapel and the room in which I now sleep is called “The Flag Room” for obvious reasons!

Our Great-Uncles' medals - World War 1 - The red flag with the Union Jack in he corner was the first South African flag

Our Great-Uncles’ medals – World War 1

The red flag with the Union Jack in the top left corner and was the first South African flag.  Nicholas researched the history of these two uncles and their medals were given to him by the army as he was their closest next of kin.

Soldier of the First World War

Soldier of the First World War

Nicholas found this painting in a second hand shop, researched the soldier and shared his information with the survivors of this soldier.

Portrait of My Brother in uniform at the time of his Naval passing out

Portrait of My Brother in uniform which he had done to commemorate his Naval Passing Out

Some Royal Memrobilia

Some Royal Memorabilia

Ancient Collectables

Ancient Collectables

Coins and trinkets of varying value

Coins and trinkets of varying value

Nicholas can tell you history and each item.  He never forgets where he found them nor who gave them to him and he values them deeply.

My abode - The Flag Room

My abode – The Flag Room

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View to the Garden

View to the Garden

Private Chapel

Private Chapel

It has been a cold and wet day outside but I have enjoyed catching up with my baby brother and exploring his treasures.  You’ve just gotta love him!

Even the loo contains items of interest

Even the loo contains items of interest

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A book about Jan Smuts

2

An Adventure Abroad – Cape Town International to Oliver Tambo to London Heathrow

Finally Friday 21 June arrived.  Everything was ready and packed for departure by the time I left for school at 7:00 a.m.   I was there but I really wasn’t truly present.   The butterflies were going crazy in my aging tummy.  I felt like a 20 year-old anticipating her first trip abroad. My girls were angelic – they did their last formal tasks as if it were a normal school day and then I let them draw, colour and play in activity books they’d brought from home.   The morning flew by.  Carol (a room parent who isn’t a parent) was there from 9 and stayed to help set up the classroom for next term.  By 1:15 everything was done and dusted and with more butterflies joining the ones already there I dashed home.  My darling husband arrived 10 minutes later and by 1:40 we were on our way to the airport.  Earl left me off at the drop and go and then went to park the car.  I’d checked in on line so all that was left to do was check my luggage through. This happened at the speed of lightning so E and I went to have coffee before I went through to departures.  Parting from my husband was a tad emotional.  Suddenly it dawned on me that I was going abroad alone!   The last time I travelled alone was 25 years ago and then I had my 8 year old with me!   I fought back the tears and hurried through to Passengers Only.

We took off in high winds and driving rain – very bumpy and I am not a happy flier.    I had a window seat which I gave up to the lovely young man next to me.  The last thing I wanted was to look at the world thousands of metres below – how scary is that!    Soon the weather cleared and we had a very pleasant trip.  After some polite conversation with my travelling companions I settled into the story on my Kindle!

It was painless getting through Customs at Oliver Tambo.   I asked a woman around my age whether this was the queue that I needed to be in.  We got chatting and I thought wouldn’t it be nice if we ended up sitting near each other on the flight.  What were the chances?  Well pretty good it turned out as we were right next to each other!   “You’re a teacher, aren’t you?”  she said.  It’s that obvious!   “You are too,” I replied.   Yes – the principal of an independent girls’ school in Johannesburg.   And so yes – we had a lot to talk about!

I never manage to sleep on a plane but because I was so exhausted after the hectic end of term schedule I managed to doze fitfully.   Arriving at Heathrow was a huge thrill.  London at last!   I got through customs without a hiccup and my bag was on the carousel the minute I got to it!   I grabbed a trolley and headed for the exit – did not see my brother so went to get a sim card and then did a quick look round again – could not see him – got the sim into the phone – didn’t work – took it back – got another one and tried again – got it working and dialled Nicholas. “Where are you – I am right at the start of the exit – I didn’t see you.  Didn’t you see me”  “No can you see me now – Oh there you are!”  Big hugs and happy reunion and giggling that we’d missed each other we headed for his car.  The weather?  Exactly the same as that which I’d left in Cape Town – Windy with driving rain!

Our first stop was his local Tescos.  I enjoyed exploring the aisles and comparing them to Pick ‘n Pay.   Nicholas needed Milo so I headed to the beverage aisle. – No Milo – I asked a lovely young black lady staring at the same shelves. “Do you see Milo”   “Try the Caribbean aisle” she said.  Caribbean aisle?  Yes – and the South African, Mediterranean, Eastern, Polish etc etc.   I was gobsmacked.   Milo is consumed in the Caribbean but the British don’t know it.

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Every kind of Hot Chocolate – but no Milo in the Beverage Aisle

A section for each culture

You will, however, find it in The Caribbean

You will find your favourite South African Brands too

You will find your favourite South African Brands too

My brother is a man of many facets and passionate about his various interests.  He is a priest, a political animal,  history buff and a Royalist of note.   Entering his home is like walking into a small museum.   Later, I will post pictures and comments on the many things he showed me when he gave me the grand tour.   Watch this space.